So..

For starters, my laptop is HP Elitebook 8570w. Very very long time ago I had bought 8770W, it's 17'3 inch big heavy laptop, I liked playing games on it but my back didn't like carrying it. I sold it.. and until recently, I bought 15'4 version of same laptop. But 8570w doesn't even pack a punch for older games. I though to myself, maybe buy some MSI or Alienware..

But..

I found auction of very cheap Gtx 980M, though "why not", repaired it, tried it with laptop... WORKED 😮
Then I found 8560w with Dreamcolor LCD.  Gtx didn't liked that LCD, DC screen didn't liked that GPU either. But it started working together after flashing MSI vbios (no optimus) and using 389 version of nvidia driver. Pure UEFI and GPT is must.

I made some mods like upgrading VRM of GTX and custom heatsink. But I wasn't that much proud of it like I'm proud of more recent work.

I had bought Quadro P5200M very cheaply, it works charmingly with my HP, with only one thing not working - fan control.

But I'm on way to fix it in few weeks.  I think it have been incorrectly working programmer or not exactly fully compatible vbios.
Problem is very clearly seen in HW Monitor: motherboard i2c SMBUS sensor for GPU is stuck at 85 degrees. CPU thermal diode and GPU's correctly show exact temperature of cores. But I think there is a conflict - wrong registers or something. I'm still waiting for better chip programmer to come.

Specs:
Intel i-7 3740QM

Nvidia Quadro P5200M 16GB 120W

16GB DDR3L 1866 Mhz (4x4GB)

Samsung Evo 870 1TB

I made that HP work faster and better than his bigger brothers! Yay!

Meanwhile, let me show you some pictures. You can also ask me directly and freely, I will try to help you out!

And if you have some Quadro P5200 vbios, you can share : )

BTW, myths I though that are true..

1. Weak CPU limits GPUs power.   <--- Nope! When I checked with benchmarks, mine Quadro is as fast as those in original notebooks it cames from (ex. hp 17 zbook g5 or dell precision 7730). PCI Express have same speed, so.. myth busted!

2.NVMe SSD are waaaay faster <--- When I checked last time loading your game 6 seconds faster is not that much difference for everyday users. Maybe it is for ex. in movie editing.

3. No need to update dreamcolor edid for newest nvidia driver to work in 10 bit mode. I downloaded newest one and it works flawlessly.

To be continued..

The heatsink:

https://imgur.com/a/v2gq5dB
 

The fans and their electronics:

https://imgur.com/a/mr88Xgn

That’s it for now. 

I managed to get the RTX 4080 to work on the M6800 eDP UEFI version. No Haswell TDP bugs, displays on eDP and can do 154W max.

The same GPU worked on the Clevo P570WM eDP 120Hz 3D laptop (UEFI, 2012, Ivy bridge)

However, I tried to use this GPU (with the backlight mod cable) on the Dell Precision M6700 with the eDP 120Hz screen and... It doesn't work.

eDP cable is plugged with the backlight mod and the computer doesn't boot, laptop stays on

eDP cable is unplugged with the backlight mod cable computer doesn't boot, laptop stays on

HDMI is plugged, eDP cable is unplugged with the backlight mod and the computer boots to the bios (external display)

The RTX 4080 has eDP on DP_D. The M6700 has eDP set on DP_D. The M6800 also has eDP on DP_D.

So what's the difference between the M6700 and M6800? Why it doesn't work?

The RTX 3000 from HP works on both laptops. So the maximum I can do for the M6700 is RTX Turing from HP?

Any help? 

Service Tag: C9GP6H2 so u can see original configuration.

Original Configuration --> planed - ordered - already done/delivered:

Intel i7-7820HQ --> Intel Xeon E3-1575M v5

2x 8GB DDR4 2400 CL17 --> 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR4 2666 CL15

nVidia Quadro P3000 6GB --> nVidia Quadro P5200 16GB

1x 512GB Toshiba XG3 NVMe --> 1x 512GB Samsung 960 Pro NVMe + 1x 1TB WD SN730 NVMe

WIFI AC --> WIFI 6E

Windows 10 Pro --> Windows 11 Pro

upgrades for later:

1080p Screen --> 4K Screen

nVidia Quadro P5200 --> RTX 5000 / 3080 / 4080

Stock Heatsink --> Cicichen RTX Heatsink

Service Tag is: 9F9PZ52 (so u guys can take a look of original config)

Original Configuration --> planed - ordered - already done/delivered:

i7-4710MQ --> i7-4930MX(@4.1GHz allcore)

2x 4GB DDR3L 1600 --> 4x 4GB Kingston DDR3L 2133 CL11

AMD FirePro M6100 --> NV GTX 880M 8GB(just waiting for the NV heatsink, 880M i already had bcs was planned for a imac upgrade) doesnt work, maybe corrupted Bios, Quadro P5200 atm no card works, hope board not broken, will clean slot n check again

2x SATA 500GB HDD --> 2x 250GB Samsung 850 Evo SATA Raid0 + Kioxa BG5 1TB mPCIe

No WIFI --> WIFI 6/AX

sticky Palmrest --> New Palmrest

DVD Drive --> UHD BD Drive

Low Performance GPU Heatsink --> Optimizing Heatsink: lil Copper Heatsinks, second Fan

Windows 10 Pro --> Windows 11 Pro

I believe this will be a very interesting project, so in this thread I will post the progress of my journey in refurbishing/upgrading this amazing machine.

i7 4800MQ
AMD FirePro M5100
16 GB 1600 MHz Hynix
512 GB LiteOn IT LCS-512M6S SSD
Dell 330W XM3C3 PSU
Dead battery

My upgrades:

i7 4800MQ --> i7 4980HQ

AMD FirePro M5100 --> NVIDIA Quadro T1000
16 GB 1600 MHz Hynix --> 32 16 GB 1866 MHz G.Skill RipJaws
DVD --> Samsung EVO 870 1TB
Original SSD --> Samsung EVO 870 512 GB 
Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 --> MPE-AXE3000H Wi-Fi 6E
FV993 97Wh Battery

UPDATE 1#:
Replaced original SSD with Samsung EVO 870, 860 went into DVD ODD slot

UPDATE 2#:
JAPANESE KEYBOARD 

UPDATE 3#:
Replaced default AVC CPU fan with a Delta fan

UPDATE 4#:
Replaced Wi-Fi module with a newer one

UPDATE 5#:
Replaced 860 EVO 512 GB with 870 EVO 1024 GB

UPDATE 6#:
Installed a palmrest with FP

UPDATE 7#:
JAPANESE BACKLIT 🤯keyboard

UPDATE 8#:
Installed a modified GPU heatsink

UPDATE 9# WIP (approx end of December):
Ordered another Delta CPU fan (it will be turned into a GPU fan)

UPDATE 10(!!!)#:
Installed i7 4980HQ

This will act as a hub post, not only explaining what the project is, but how to use it and where to access the files. 

To start things off, what is the Janktop?
It's a custom hybrid chassis housing both laptop and desktop components, with the capability to make them work together. This includes Almost any laptop keyboard, (sometimes requiring a bit of modification) A display assembly from and Alienware M17x R3 or R4, although that can house any screen that will fit within it. Later on, I will be designing a fully custom display housing for compatibility with more modern 17.3 inch displays, including high refresh and resolution models. The chassis also houses an inverter board of your choice, as well as another open source project, not by me: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-USB-Laptop-Keyboard-Controller/

Many thanks to Frank Adam for this wonderful project.

Last but not least, the chassis is compatible with most MINI-ITX motherboards, flex ATX power supplies, and Dual slot video cards 231mm long or less. Especially "tall" cards may not fit properly however. Additionally, the primary cooling for the chassis comes from the dual 40mm Triple Radiators in the rear, on each side of the power supply. Currently the chassis is only designed around the Alphacool 40mm X-flow triple radiators, but if anyone can find another type of similar size, I may add compatibility in the future. The custom cooling loop has to be used to cool the CPU, as the chassis Does not have room for a low profile CPU cooler. The GPU however, can draw and circulate air from outside the case on it's own. A blower card under 230mm (if you can find one) should perform normally, but more traditional cards will struggle to cool themselves. Expect to see temps close to 50-60 c in light to mid gaming with this setup, and excess of 80-90 under synthetic workload such as FurMark. As I was not satisfied with those temperatures, I have purchased a GPU waterblock, and will update the post when I get temperature results with both the CPU and GPU in my loop. That said, The dual radiators have quite a bit of cooling capacity on thier own, they had no difficulty keeping my 2600x running at 110 watts under 70 degrees during a synthetic workload, and that was with heavily kinked soft tubing, which I will soon replace with nice clean hard PETG. Once again, I will update once I have results on this setup. 

Pros/Cons:
Pros:
More portable than most desktops

More powerful than most to all laptops (depending on config)

Modular and standardized, so repairs modifications, and upgrades are extremely easy compared to a laptop. 

Max spec configurations are generally cheaper than laptop performance equivalents.

Lighter than most desktops

Much cheaper to repair than a laptop

Cons:

Less powerful than high spec desktops
A bit more difficult to assemble than a desktop

Less cost effective than a desktop

Much heavier than most laptops (Current config is around 18 pounds)

No Battery or integrated pointing device (I could add the latter if there is demand)

This design is certainly not for everyone, as it is extremely bulky and heavy, and requires AC power at all times. That said, if you need to bring your device from place to place, but plan on staying stationary for a decent amount of time and don't mind a bit more weight, the Janktop offers great performance and serviceability. The design is meant to fit into a middle ground between heavy, modular desktops, and light unfixable unupgradable laptops.

Building  a Janktop

First things first, you're going to want some basic tools:
A hardline watercooling kit, or at least tools to cut and bend tubing.

A decent amount of fast bonding super glue for holding your nuts in place till assembly. 

A file for cleaning up 3d printed parts.
Any paint, stickers, or vinyl wrap for aesthetics.

And Plenty of time. While the case is only a bit harder to build in then more complex desktops, actually building the case itself takes quite a while, and it took well over 100 hours of printing to print all the chassis components. 

Optional: Soldering equipment to splice your fans onto one fan header. (yes you can technically use adapters, but there is not a lot of space in the chassis, and you want things to be as compact as possible. Splicing is as simple as connecting every lead to it's correlating color on another fan, except for the PWM pin, which instead should simply be carried over from one single fan. If you don't understand this part, just look at a fan header splitter, you're basically doing the same thing as that except more compact and permanent.)

As of today, the Cad files for the Janktop design will be available to Print and manufacture. The vast majority of the chassis is 3d Printed, except for the palmrest and Bottom cover. The palmrest should be cut with either CNC, Laser, or Waterjet from 6.35mm (or .25 in) thick polycarbonate. I ordered mine from Xometry, and they did a fine job of manufacturing it for me. Just make sure to select Sheet Cutting for the process, and polycarbonate for the material. The final cost from them is around $140 USD.
Next, the Bottom cover is the only other non 3d printed component. It should be ordered in 2.5 mm Aluminum, Xometry will do it in Aluminum 6061 T6 for around $135 USD. 

Note: You will have to bend the bottom cover yourself. It's much cheaper to order that way, and all you have to do is clamp it to a table and bend it around 3 degrees.

The total cost of printing a chassis, if you do your own printing and order these two parts custom made will usually fall between 300-350 dollars. However, it will be considerably more expensive to order the printed parts, as having someone else print for you saves a lot of time but is noticeably more expensive.
The rest of the chassis is 3d printed, but these two parts are required not to be for the sake of durability and ease of assembly. 

Next up, you'll need to print, or get printed, every 3d printed component that makes up the chassis. I would personally suggest PLA, as that's what I used and it was inexpensive and reliable. It should be noted that this is quite a lot of 3d printing, so I would only suggest doing it yourself if you know your way around a printer, and have one on hand, as it is quite a lot of complex printing. That said, all parts should be small enough to fit on an average sized 3d printer, I printed all of mine on and Ultimaker 2+. You will want to have a file on hand while assembling the chassis, as 3d printed parts don't always want to fit together perfectly first try, and a bit of light filing is sometimes needed to achieve a good fit. A simple nail file does quite well. 
Finally, the chassis is held together via a combination of m3 Screws, Nuts, standoffs, and a couple of m2 screws for the one component that doesn't have holes big enough for m3. I would suggest buying both shorter 6mm and longer 12mm screws, as different parts of the chassis require different lengths to connect. The mechanism that holds most of the chassis together consists of a screw hole on one element, that then passes through another and into a socket in which an m3 nut should be glued. These sockets are hexagonal, and pretty easy to spot. Before assembly, m3 nuts between 5 and 5.5 mm in diameter (which is standard size) should be glued into these sockets with super glue. The super glue is not the thing that ends up holding the nuts in for more areas, however it is good to use to prevent them from falling out before you screw into them. It is worth noting that there are a LOT of nuts and screws in this build, and it is fairly time consuming to build the first time around. With that said, the nature of having all of the components attach to one another via nuts and bolts means that the machine can be disassembled fairly easily in comparison to a normal laptop, and individual 3d printed parts can be replaced without having to replace large portions of the chassis. 

Non Choice Components

As of right now, these are the parts that are not reconfigurable and have to be a certain model:

1. The display assembly has to be from an m17x R3 or 4, as no other display's hinges will properly connect to the chassis. 

2. The watercooling radiators must be two of the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow 40mm Triple Radiators.

3. There isn't really another keyboard option other than building Frank Adam's open source Teensy Based keyboard controller. I will provide a teensy script compatible with the Alienware 17 r1 keyboard, which can be loaded onto the teensy to utilize the keyboard over USB.

4. Keyboard. This is a grey area, because while the keyboard support area on the Janktop can be modified to support pretty much any keyboard, and Frank's controller works with the vast majority, it is only currently configured for the 17 R1. If anyone wants to test other keyboards with the teensy and they work, then send me detailed measurements for the keyboard's size and shape and I will happily make an alternate set of supports that are compatible with the keyboard in question.

5. Riser cable. You will need a segmented PCIE cable 500-600 MM long, which can be quite hard to find. This is probably the hardest cable to route, as it is massive and very important.

6. An FPC HDMI cable. You want to get a very compact HDMI cable to run back into the chassis in order to feed your GPU output to the internal display. Ideally you want 90 degree connectors, and to cover the whole cable in something durable such as strong tape, as they are fairly fragile.

Choice Components
1. Most to all MINI-ITX motherboards should fit in the case and function, just make sure the VRM heatsinks don't get in the way of your waterblock. (by extension any CPU is supported so long as a working ITX board exists for it.)

2. Pump. I would heavily suggest going with a hybrid waterblock pump combo, such as the alphacool Eisblock XPX, but be careful, pumps that are too tall or have inlets and outlets on the "top" will not fit because of clearance. The internal chassis clearance around the motherboard is 50mm vertically, but some of that is taken up by standoffs and the motherboard itself. 

3. Storage. The current design has a small intake on the palmrest that provides airflow to most back of the board NVME drives, as such setups are common on ITX boards. There is enough clearance under the board for a small M.2 Heatsink as well. Sata Drives may be mounted in free space around the chassis, and connected to the motherboard. Using a GPU waterblock opens up quite a bit of valuable space for more SATA drives.

4. GPU. Most desktop Dual-Slot GPUS will fit, so long as they are no more than 231 MM long, and only extend 10 mm or so past the lip of the GPU I/O shield. (in a standard desktop this would be facing towards you when looking through a side panel.) I will update the post on whether or not the cooling can handle a waterblocked GPU alongside CPU.

5. Fittings/ Tubing. I would strongly suggest going with tubing at 16mm OD or smaller, due to size constraints. Soft tubing is easy to set up, but gets heavily kinked in this chassis. Hard tubing is strongly recommended for the sake of reliability. Keep in mind there is a fill port on the right hand side of the chassis, so you can top off/drain the loop without disassembling anything.

6. Power supply. As of right now, only Flex-ATX is supported which comes in up to at least 600 watts. However, there are server power supplies of similar size that may be possible to modify to work with standard PC components, in which case the threshold would be well over 1000 watts.

7. A screen and inverter board. You will need a screen that will fit in your m17x Display assembly (the stock screens are fine), and a matching inverter board to convert the signal to HDMI. Since the board uses external power, get a MOLEX to DC12v converter, and you should be able to power it off of your internal PSU, which will make it turn on and off with the computer. Most inverters come with a button board for controlling the display, this will screw into the 3d printed side panel next to the GPU I/O via two M2 screws. 

8. 40mm FANs x6. I would strongly suggest using Noctua PWM fans, as while they are more expensive than alternatives, bad 40mm fans can be very loud and annoying, and the noctua ones are quite soft except at full speed, while moving a decent amount of air.

Picture Gallery:

Something to note: these images are of the prototype, Janktop 4 Alpha looks very similar, but is considerably stronger, and more compatible.

This however, is a schematic of the Alpha Chassis, with improved durability, compatibility, and aesthetics.

FAQ:
(will expand with time)

Will kits be available?
Currently, I am just starting college, so I don't have a way to manufacture 3d printed parts on my own; so kits will not be readily available from me for quite a while. However, if anyone else wants to make and sell them, that is fine by me. With that said, that's not a complete no, 

printing can be outsourced to a third party company, however this would have to be done on a commission by commission basis, and it is significantly more expensive. I would also only be able to sell the chassis itself with none of the electronics save for the keyboard controller. (as I didn't design it, I'll happily solder one, but I will only charge for the cost of materials on that component.) If this interests you, shoot me a DM on this site, or Discord.

Will there be more Janktop designs one day?
The only thing I have planned for certain is finally finishing the 4.0 into the 4.5, which will include a fully custom display housing, which will house standard 17.3 inch panels. That said, I have had passing thoughts about designing an ultracompact Janktop,(perhaps 4.5-S) cut down to a 15.6 inch chassis, and about 10-15mm thinner. The current 4.0 is around 70mm thick, so that would make roughly 60 - 55mm thick. Still very chunky, but such is the limitation of MINI-ITX. The other side model would be some form of performance Janktop, with a slightly larger chassis, and improved PSU wattage, as well as cooling. I'm not sure if it's possible, but being able to cool a 3090 in a laptop-ish chassis would certainly turn some heads. 

Closing Thoughts
First and foremost, if you see an issue with this Post or project, don't hesitate to shoot me a DM, either here or on my Discord server. 

(That said, please be respectful) If you build a chassis, and something doesn't fit, I will happily adjust the CAD model to negate the issue so that you and nobody else will have to deal with it again.

https://discord.gg/Uey5drgDnw
If anyone wants to modify one of my part designs to achieve a different function, be my guest! In fact, if you send in an alternate design, I will add it to the Alternates file repo on my GitHub(so long as it is a viable part), and you will be credited alongside the part in a text document.

As is the nature of Open-source, I am and always will be the original creator of this project, but if anyone wants to modify, manufacture and even sell copies of the chassis, then they are free to.

GitHub Link:https://github.com/StripeySnake/Janktop-4.0 (all STLs are in mm)

Github link is down as I decided the design was not polished enough for public use. I am currently finalizing the design and it will be re-released sometime in the first half of 2025

Until Next time,

StripeySnake

intel AC8265
Modified Dsanke "P7xxDM_RTX" 1.07 bios to suit
Windows 11

The laptop I started with is a P775DM3-g I picked up for cheap with a 6700k and an unhappy 1060 that would constantly crash and stop outputting to the display.



After finding this thread from a forum member who had bought a 3080mxm for their P775tm1 and documented the process to get it working (and the possibility of making nvidia drivers work without .inf modification which was a priority for me) I decided to order a 3080 for myself.
At the time I had a QTJ2 mutant cpu but unfortunately due to the IHS height and the rigidity of the aliexpress customized heatsink I had to go back to the 6700k, This was then upgraded to a delidded 8700k acquired from a friend.

Unfortunately the 3080 was mildly damaged in shipping!  A cracked inductor and the external power connector was squished.
in a stroke of luck ebay was helpful with the refund process and I was left with the card in my posession, the connector was an easy fix but the inductor required a bit more effort.



With the parts installed I then worked on the bios going off the details in this comment from forum user srs2236, changed the ID from 7705 (p775) to 7715  (X170KM).  Installing the latest Nvidia driver worked without a hitch, power was limited to 150w due to no dynamic boost support (power limit is covered later on), the aliexpress heatsink is amazing at keeping temperatures in check.

With the GPU working fine I began on the CPU, due to some mistakes with mounting pressure and the QTJ2 I had damaged / squished one corner of the socket so needed to lift a section of pins back up by hand (thought for a moment I might have killed the board when I realized what had happened😐)
The P775 has a lower OCP limit than the TM1 (144A vs 180A) so if too high of an instantanous load (avx torture test etc) is applied it can cause shutdowns with a big overclock, I found OCCT small extreme to be too much unless I limit the CPU.
currently I have settled at 4.7ghz -115mv offset and it is very stable, photo attached is from testing at 4.8ghz.

 

After some benchmarking and tuning I was annoyed with the 150W power limit but I wasn't prepared to use the old driver with unlocked power limits, so the only real choice was a shunt modification...
20mOhm shunt resistors added on to the existing 5mOhm, in theory this should give 20% extra headroom (180w) but until I can tap in to i2c on the card and see what power actually is getting used I can only make an educated guess how much power it is drawing.


I went from a bit over 12k in timespy graphics score to over 14k!


Next post I will cover some of the problems and solutions I went through getting the bios to work (I am firmly a novice in this area so a lot of it is trial and error)

I just wanted to share my experience with HP Zbook. First 15 G2 and later 17 G1.

So I bought a cheap Zbook 15 G2 with a crappy FHD TN screen, K1100M and not so bad i7-4710QM. 

Later somehow I found a topic on notebookreview:
“8560w GPU upgrade - use empty DVD slot to fit MXM 3.0b (higher spec) video cards”.
Turned out that Zbook 15 G2 has a similar motherboard to Elitebook 8560w/8570w and mod is also possible.

So I purchased a used MXM B card: Nvidia Quadro K4100M 4GB.
Followed the guide and everything worked fine. I also managed to buy a Zbook 17 heatsink and desolder it for the Zbook 15.

Everything worked fine until the card died. 

I decided to purchase a Nvidia Quadro M4000M 4GB. Did some dremel work, INF mod and everything worked fine. Turned out that the M4000M (GTX970M) is hotter than the K4100M (GTX770M) so I decided to add another heatsink. 

Few days later somebody was selling a dead Zbook 17 G1 with a Dreamcolor screen for 70€, so I bought it.
Used motherboard was like 50€. Bought the board and replaced it. Laptop was still dead. When I unplugged LCD cable both motherboards worked on the external display . I assumed that Dreamcolor LCD is faulty and started searching for replacement on panellook but wasn’t satisfied with the results. All “good” LCD panels are eDP not LVDS, so I started digging. 

Zbook 15 has eDP LCDs and Zbook 17 has LVDS LCDs but the connector physically is the same. I downloaded schematics for 15 and 17 and the connector pinout is the same. Connected display+cable from 15 to 17 and it worked. Bought a nice used eDP 30 pin panel from Dell Precision 7750(?) Innolux N173HCE-E3B (100% sRGB, 100% DCIP, 90% AdobeRGB, perfect angles, 500nit). Now I know that everything works fine. I cut out some plastic parts from the LCD cover, added 5mm plastic foam bought in an art store + two-sided tape + a little bit of shaping and voila! Modern LCD in a 10 years old laptop.

Extra thoughts about this mod:
Cable length from Zbook 15 is enough for Zbook 17 G1 and G2.
Didn’t test it but the Zbook 15 G2 had an option for QHD+ (3200x1800px 60Hz) 40 pin LCD and cable. It’s DisplayPort 1.2 - HBR2 17.28 Gbit/s so it should be possible to upgrade for: 1080p up to 240Hz, 1440p up to 165Hz or 4K up to 75Hz. For my casual retro gaming 1080p 60Hz is enough so I didn’t search for hi-res hi-refresh rate panel. I also prefer better colors and viewing angles than higher refresh rate.
When you try to adjust the brightness Fn+F9/F10 there is a 3 seconds delay between each dimming. [Windows 8.1]. Screen brightness [slider] from “Power options” forks fine - no delay.

Link to panel: https://www.panelook.com/N173HCE-E3B_Innolux_17.3_LCM_overview_45902.html

Zbook 15 G2 with MXM B heatsink:

Zbook 17 G1 with eDP panel from 15

Working eDP panel on Zbook 17 G1

Dremel work + foam

Foam bracket

And here is an old photo of extra fan and heatsink concept. Extra heatsink is from Dell Precision M4500. 

+ no heatpipes bending is needed.

- no direct connection copper to copper = poor efficiency

I also changed cpu heatsink to dual-pipe heatsink from Zbook 17 G2. Not in the photo.

https://www.x-vsion.com/product-category/mxms/

Is this website legit? If so, buying an RTX 3080 MXM, wouldn't it be to too much power for the motherboard, eventually damaging it?

I just found this website and wanted to know since now I'm thinking to buy an RTX card instead of the GTX1070

Also,

for an RTX3080 MXM, the installation process is same as installing a GTX1070 MXM into an Alienware 18 right?

Finally, is the bottleneck going to be too severe? (I have an i7 4940MX)

Many thanks for help!

Also, what upgrades make the biggest difference more RAM, an SSD, or even GPU/CPU changes? Curious if its worth upgrading or if its better to move on to something newer.

This is my built. It is an Alienware 17 R1 with the 60Hz screen. Initially it had a 4710mq and GTX 880m with 16 Gigs of 1600MHz Ram.

Cpu has been upgraded to a 4930mx @ 4,0GHz on all Cores, running throttle free

GPU has been upgraded to PNY Quadro RTX 3000, pulling 80watts constanty

Ram will be upgraded to 32GB with Ripjaws 1866MHz speed.

Bios is A14+ unlocked

Fan control is working natively. I have HWinfo and RTSS running an OSD while gaming just to look at temps. No control is needed.

Here is a Firestrike result

 https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/142194166?

Here is a photo album with BIOS settings. Strange enough, system runs in iGFX mode and both Intell HD and RTX 3000 are present in the system.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qgvUHAMnNTbnqgqJ6

In this case or the situation on this scenario. Your advice and the help are approciated. Be kind if you not mind. Let me know when you are ready and  free. Please and Thank You. Thank You So Much. As soon as possible. Soon Enough. You are the gent and gem.

Yours sincerely Jevgeni

Here is the long story short, again, the GPU upgrade story.

Since beginning I went from GTX1060 to GTX1080 with the heatsink upgrade and lapping process, which helps temps a lot even with crap thermal paste.

Now it was time for the final GPU upgrade, initially thought for RTX2080 but eventually got the RTX3080 as it's almost the top possible upgrade (maybe with GA102 chip replacement but it's way too expensive already).

For the BIOS I had taken some of Dsanke RTX version and updated the subsystem ID to match the x170km for proper driver install and realtek audio driver (but still missing the soundblaster app, can't find it anywhere and my old hdd is still waiting for data extraction).

And the heatsink, could not get at proper price the modded ones from taobao or that 1688 so I took the P751TM1 RTX version and the work began.

First, drill the heatsink for the two 22 coils and third one marked these with blue, 3 holes for the screws (forgot about ~2mm core displacement) and added metal the 4th screw marked with red:

Next is adding metal for memory displacement and some for VRMs:

Next was the process of soldering, so I had some drops of SD-628T which is a must if soldering to this kind of aluminium heatsink:

eventually had to replace top part with copper as aluminium did not want to solder at all.

As of thermal pads, had to use thermal gum for top iductors and memory since the pads would be like 0.5mm thik and didn't had any of these:

The screws and springs are custom, longer ones from other laptop model: 

The process took like 2 weeks of hard work and measurements, including lapping process.

Temps keep good, ~45C in 22C room temp under normal load, as for high load, ~65C with ~120W on GPU and ~45W 8086K CPU.

Maybe this overview helps anyone in case of upgrade to rtx30xx seriess.

As it remains, a way to fool the driver for GSync (screen ROM edit and maybe other edits) but the 60HZ screen is not worth for now.

Specs: 

Motherboard: Gigabyte z590I Vision D 

Processor: intel i7-10700K 

RAM: Adata XPG ROG STRIX DDR4 3600MHZ ( Fubuki )

SSD: 1TB Samsung 970 m.2

Power Supply: 1U 700 Watts 80 Plus Platinum 

Keyboard: K65 60% Gaming Keyboard 

GPU: RTX 3090 OC Evangelion Edition

LCD: 18.4" 4K 60hz (Driving by a 4K EDP driver board)

Case: Custom Plexi-Glass .. 

Now the decision here .. I am set on the 18.4 because it's 4K , but on the other hand , I want a 17" with a high refresh rate. Maybe I can run both LCD lol. Decision , decisions .. 

Once I figured out what display I want , I will mount it on top of the case just like a laptop. 

New Build also WIP , but 80% finished. 

Ryzen 7 9800X3D 

RX 7900 XTX

700 Watts Flex 1u PSU

32GB 6400mhz RAM

Scythe Shuriken 3 CPU Cooler ( Noisy fan ) 

WQHD 240hz LCD with Alienware M18 Lid

240hz Driver Board 

Coolermaster Laptop cooler frame and plexi glass casing

Weight might be around 15-20lbs .. I have no scale. 

A few years ago I became fascinated with NVIDIA ION netbooks, something about them feels special or unique and they are good for running old games. Today we will install a USB hub inside of the ASUS EEE PC 1215N which allow us to permanently install any number of accessories inside of the computer. The primary advantage of doing this is to eliminate external clutter and keep the outside USB ports available for more important accessories.

Some of the possible accessories you can potentially use inside of the computer with this setup include:

- Modern Bluetooth Device

- Modern WIFI Device

- Xbox One Controller Receiver

- Xbox Series X/S Controller Receiver

- Other Controller Receivers (etc Logitech)

- USB Flash Drives

To begin, we will need the following, VERY specific items:

- Asus EEE PC 1215N

- Samsung 870 EVO SSD (1TB/500GB/250GB)

- Walmart Brand "ONN" USB Hub

- Screwdriver Kit

- Pliers

- mini-PCIE USB Card

This first photo shows everything we will be working with:

https://i.imgur.com/bQ7d7PY.jpeg

The first step is to disassemble the USB hub and separate the plastic shell away from the electronics, like this:

https://i.imgur.com/J3a6g3P.jpeg

The next step is to use pliers to remove a small plastic tab on the USB hub, like this:

https://i.imgur.com/VT4xg3W.jpeg

The next step is to disassemble the SSD and separate the protective shell away from the drive, like this:

https://i.imgur.com/hX9gzzz.jpeg

The next step is to tear down the 1215N and remove the palm rest, keyboard, metal mid frame, HDD, and unplug the flat cable:

https://i.imgur.com/gG5cEH1.jpeg

The next step is to use pliers to remove one of the "legs" from the mini-PCIE USB card, like this:

https://i.imgur.com/njAOLdD.jpeg

The next step is to carefully remove two little clips from laptop frame AND reposition the CMOS battery, like this:

Before:

https://i.imgur.com/Eb1tvVr.jpeg

After:

https://i.imgur.com/umDDYfB.jpeg

The next step is to connect everything and position everything in a very specific location, which includes:

- Replacing the WIFI card with the USB card

- Plugging the naked USB hub into the USB card

- Using double sided adhesive to hold the naked USB hub on the laptop frame

- Plugging the naked SSD into the SATA port

- Using *something* to hold the SSD in place so it doesn't fall out (I am using sticky rubber bumpers)

- Plugging the flat cable back into the computer

This next photo shows how everything should look at this point:

https://i.imgur.com/P4tdSVy.jpeg

As a test, I purchased a brand new USB WIFI device and 3X USB 32GB drives, like this:

https://i.imgur.com/dwJUa0C.jpeg

This photo shows the new accessories plugged in:

https://i.imgur.com/3JoIOxB.jpeg

This next photo shows that all of the new accessories are working in Windows 7:

https://i.imgur.com/jtOZC9t.jpeg

This last photo shows how I organized the sticky rubber bumpers to secure the SSD:

https://i.imgur.com/LvwrZIs.jpeg

And that is the end, now the 1215N can have a new life, depending on which accessories you want to add.

You may use another kind of SSD or USB hub but those devices must be very small and you will need to get creative with the positioning of those devices.

I cannot confirm if any of this works on the AMD variant 1215B model, but it should since it has the same guts. It took me a really long time to find a 1215N for sale, and to this day, I never saw a 1215B for sale.

Cheers and thanks for checking this out!

https://www.techpowerup.com/312631/nvidia-bios-signature-lock-broken-vbios-modding-and-crossflash-enabled-by-groundbreaking-new-tools

vBIOS mods have been difficult/impossible for the past few generations since NVIDIA has started implementing checks and digital signature verification into their products to prevent their GPUs from working with "unauthorized" vBIOS images.

TechPowerUp is reporting that their forum members have come up with two different new tools that can work around these protections and provide what vBIOS modders want (tweaking voltages, fan curves, overclocking limts, etc.).

There are details about each tool posted on the TechPowerUp forums as well.

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/omg-vflash-fully-patched-nvflash-from-x-to-ada-lovelace-v5-780.312601/

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/nvflashk-flash-any-bios-to-nvidia-gpus-safe-board-id-bypass-up-to-4xxx-series.312608/

In our litle country we are playing with mxm to Pcie adapter .

So,  for now in clevo desktop cpu  version (no igpu) there is  a problem.... the card being recognized in windows but the internal lcd dont have diplay only with an external .

Is there a solution for this problem like in the bios some of the settings?

The Laptop has unlocked bios  and a 9900K cpu 

With an MSI GT72 is everything good.