Currently disabled Beamforming and other settings for which defeated the purpose of buying a mesh router. Caused major issue with iOS showing insecure warning and even connecting after iOS 17 update.

My setup is just like Router extender which is almost old with OFC.

In India they have blocked 6E and above with only Wifi 6 being allowed. I had several options such as Ubiquity U6+, Mikrotik cap Ax, Zyxel NWA110ax, Omada Ax3000.

Read about Ubiquity releasing beta updates and bricking device and slow speed due to slower hardware unless it's a pro. Omada has similar FW instability like Decos, Mikrotik has distributor issue and steep learning curve. Zyxel is the first time I heard and dunno if its good. The budget being 200-250$.

Pros:

• Long Support Cycle 5-6 yrs
• Wifi 6
• Work with Android, iOS, Windows and Linux without needing to disable beamforming, MIMO, roaming etc.

Ping-- 14ms

Ping down-- 29ms

Ping up-- 15ms

download--1536.33

upload--161.53

wifi--5 and 6

alberta canada (shaw)

Is anyone chomping at the bit to upgrade?  I've still got a three-antenna 802.11ac router that works perfectly well for me, the only reason I have to upgrade is that they've stopped shipping firmware updates a few years ago so it's probably been part of a botnet without my even being aware of it.

Although who knows, maybe a fancy new 802.11be router would make it so large sequential WiFi transfer speeds exceeded gigabit Ethernet speeds in practice as well as in theory, that would be nice too.

I have

Be200--works

ax210--not working

mt7922--not working

s21 ultra cell phone---works

as you can see my 6e router spits out 6ghz at 1700mbps

my zenbook wont connect or show 6ghz bands with its mt7922 wifi card

my hp omen with its ax210 also wont show or connect to 6ghz bands

what region setting are required and what do I do to get this working, I seem to be the only one on the planet un able to get 6 ghz working with 6e cards. the wifi 7 card was plug and play and worked out of the box

In the RAXE500 settings, my region is set to North America. 

In most laptops there are 2 antennas and they are usually routed through the laptop screen somewhere. What I want to do is split those 2 antennas and have the second line going to ports on the back of the laptop for external antennas like puting a wi-fi card in a desktop with 2 antennas sticking out the back of the card slot in the hopes of getting longer range or distance and faster speeds off the wi-fi with external antennas. I just don't want to disable or cut the internal antenna wires.

So... any recommendations? I want future proof for at least 5 years if possible so that I don't have to buy another for that long. I can afford up to $300 or so. We need long range to reach our stable which is about 500 feet from the home.

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The main problem is that just randomly my intel ax201 160mhz will just drop the signal and it doesn't see other signals either, usually troubleshoot reset fixes it but I'm wondering if there are some settings in the wifi advanced tab I can tweak. Specifically I noticed the second setting down the list shown, I tried both n and ac and it just cut out detecting no signals I'm not sure what the router is I had the model here somewhere but can't find it. Would that be a helper with this if I got the right config? Any advice on the other settings or just major helper ones with the signal?

so for me 75mbps is the sweet spot and with unlimited phone and unlimited 75mbps I only pay 54 bucks cad or like 40 usd....not too shabby what have you guys found to be your sweet spot or do you just want the best.

The virgin media modem is in modem mode with a 2.5Gb connection to the router.

This is on an AX210 2x2 setup upstairs from the router.

i did my research and found a few videos and articles with a few solutions as listed below :

- remove the power saving option  for the Bluetooth in the device manager under the human interface section ( didn't work )

- covert the Bluetooth support service to automatic in the services ( didn't work)

- removing ( let this device turn off to save power ) in the device manager for every single item i found in the device manager ( didn't work )

- in the advanced power plan , turn USB selective support to disable on power and battery ( didn't work )

i thought maybe the mouse is defective so i installed an older copy of windows that i had on a USB drive the 1903 to test it and the mouse works fine ! but of course as soon as the windows update, the same issue starts again !!

so i don't know what else i can do 

any advice ?