extremecarver

I'm pretty sure a computer contains enough metal. Induction hobs power on automatically, but it's the metal on top that heats up. So the only detection is that if there is no metal on top. Needs to be magnetic metals, so alumium doesn't work. I'm pretty sure any laptop would be fried within seconds! But yeah you can place your hand on an induction hob no worries if it isn't hot yet. I really prefer gas. Induction hob destroys your frying pans if you try to heat full power without water to disperse the heat quickly or loads of oil. And while they heat up much faster than the old coil/infrared ones - they don't cool down as fast as gas as the glas plate keeps residual heat. Damn, I really hate kitchen stoves without a big gas flame for cooking with a proper Wok... No wonder basically all professional kitchens/cooks still use gas. Not to mention that virtually all induction hobs come with touchscreen panels that once wet cannot be controlled and switch off. The worst usability ever mainstream in a kitchen....

I wrote about the same problem. However I thought it happened when I put the LG Gram on a hot kitchen stove. Could be unrelated to that incident too. For me nothing shows up in device manager - however if I insert a card device manager refreshes but doesn't show any other defice. I also booted up Ubuntu from USB and it wouldn't find the card reader - so it's clearly dead and no software issue - and as something refreshes I'm pretty sure it's not dirt either. Tried cleaning it already. The cable doubles up for the power button or was it keyboard backlight - if that is the problem there are more problems if I remember it correctly (yeah the power button cable is really finicky on attachment). (to be more exact, I put the gram on the oven when it was cold and got the wrong knob switching on the plate with the Gram instead of the one with my food and only noticed 1min later when it smelled like burnt plastic. Lucky it wans't induction hob as those would have fried way more I guess).

So the next default appeared. The fan started rattling. Guess I have to buy a new fan too. BTW - I noticed that if PCIe Link Power State Management is not set to lowest state, the Gram needs 3-4watts more - which means the fan kinda has to work all the time at least if connected to a 4k display. That's the default for plugged in state in Windows - so that's really a setting to change. It's much less a problem if using internal display however. In General it's quite noticeable that the Iris XE gets pushed much harder if using 4K display. I was thinking about buying a 6K display used - but may think twice about it as maybe the Gram in that case really won't be silent anymore. And I'm pretty sure those paint chips happen due to sweat. Now that I haven't used the gram in the heat it's all perfect after 3 months. When I got it new and worked often in the heat - at the front there had been the first chippings appearing. I'm pretty sure it wasn't defective. I really should have warrantied that paint chipping off when buying and when it first appeared in hindsight (would have given me a new keyboard too). 3 years in - I will upgrade once LG Gram with Lunar Lake gets some discounts. Lunar Lake finally looks like Intel pushing a really good processor aimed at sipping battery only and will be produced at TSMC N3P node. So I guess it will mean OLED at 12-14 hours runtime or 24 hours runtime for LCD display versions. I really don't see the huge advantages of the current LG Grams except the brighter displays. If I upgrade in 1.5 years time my Gram will have served me very well.

Actualy the same channel has videos showing assembly too - maybe it was so hard because I didn't remove the SSDs. As for the display, I guess you really need panel and a new bezel. Then you should be fine. Never buy a new panel without also getting a new bezel. Old bezel won't do after being unglued.

yes - the whole side of the chassis (minus the flabbery bottom layer) - and yes I ordered it without trackpad as my one is still fine and a new touchpad would have added 30 or 40 euros if I remember correctly. Sadly had to go for Spanish keyboard again, couldn't get German. Only Spanish spain, Japanese, Chinese and English US I found to buy online. And yeah - I think those offers to buy either simply a panel or simply a keybaord are fake products. If you need a new panel - means panel plus the pannel chassis. I doubt you can pry the panel chassis apart and glue it back together without messing/breaking things. Or maybe you could buy panel alone, but would need to find a new chassis for it as well that has fresh glue strips. This video was very helpful - it's hard ( I didn't manage) to remove the display if that is not the very first thing you do: the other problem is fitting back the mainboard - it get's stuck on the pins and I don't know what kind of movement is needed to get it back on. Removing is easy enough so there must be a trick. Sadly there is no video on how to reassemble.

Oh yeah, I know you can actually buy keyboards alone without palm rest. That will be next to impossible to use, I guess it's both glued and screwed by like 48 micro screws or so to the palm rest below the mainboard/sub board area. Lucky that I ordered with palm rest anyhow because my palm rest was so shot from paint chipping off.

It is screwed or bonded to the palm rest here as well. Which in turn has everything like Mainboard, sub board attached to it. It's by far the repair needing most effort Changing the display, or even Mainboard or sub board is much easier. The only thing you don't have to unscrew is the heatpipe (except the single screw where it attaches to the palm rest, and the SSDs. Plus you could leave the touchpad connector and loudspeaker connectors connected if you like. Everything else that can be removed needs to be removed (as ram and CPU are soldered to the mainboard). I'm not sure if you can actually change the panel without getting a panel+ part of case because that is glued I think. Actually upgrading the display if you get it fully assembled with it's half of the hinge would be very easy so an easy path to upgrade (open hinge and unattach wifi antenna and display connector is very quick. And no I already cleaned the ad card reader thoroughly, no help. It's soldered onto the sub board so no connector to check either. Sub board is clearly well connected as otherwise no charging possible or switch on.

Oh and a Lexar NVME790 disk, inserted in slot 1 - somehow doesn't manage NVME 1.4 speeds, it only works at 1.3 speeds - not sure why. I cannot find the reason - only others documenting the same problem. Is it possible that both NVME share the same 8 lanes, so if you insert 2 NVMEs cannot get slow one to work at 4x16.0GT? Essentially the Lexar runs only at half speed (it's one of the fastest Gen 4 NVME out there - and without dram it saves power - that's why I went for it vs others, same as my now secondary Samsung 980 (non Pro) - but that is only Gen 3 drive.

oh yeah - still not sure what' happening with the card reader. When I pop in or out a card the Device Manager reacts, but I cannot find the card reader (not even as broken device/driver missing) in the device manager. Just disappeared. Seems actually I'm not the only one with this problem. Happens quite often on LG Gram. Now to my bigger gripe - exchanging the keybard. This is only possible by compeletely disassembling the laptop - meaning removing both mainboard and subboard and virtually any screw except the ones holding the heatsink (do need to remove the ventilator however). Besides not so easy to put everything back (make sure to label each screw where it came from - as overall it's like 50 screws) - my HDMI connector broke when fitting it back. It's really hard to fit back due to the pins. To make matters worse - when everything was back together computer didn't do anything on power button press. So I took every connection apart again and refitted them. At that point when I tried to open the connector for the backlight of the keyboard - the plastic had become too brittle and broke. Maybe me being a little clumsy? Somehow when I thought I can bin the laptop, it turned back on. Some connector must have been not correctly inserted. Finally I can type "e" normally again - plus with the new keyboard/palm rest full assembly (you cannot change the keyboard itself alone) - laptop looks much better again. Also the new assembly is 12g heavier and a bit stiffer! Seems LG changed something during the course of producing the 16z90p. It's the same part number - so make of it what you like. But this is not a margin difference but actually clearly a little different. As for the battery - a hiking trip to Nepal and use of the laptop at subzero temperatues gave it another blow. It's now down to 58wH capacity when fully charged (instead of 80wH - at -5° it actually showed it would be 35wH left only, but then recovered in normal temps) - so clearly needs opening up too and exchange for a new battery soon. Contacted LG to tell me the official distributor in my country so that I can order a non fake new battery. Another thing is the loudspeakers - I'm pretty sure they aren't as loud as when new anymore. And if I overdrive them via tools - they do start to sound bad quite early. Next 16" laptop maybe from MSI? They have a 1600g 99wH 16" laptop now. I will wait 1 to 1.5 years until replacement however if nothing major breaks. The HDMI I have used like two times - so it's not important to me. I connect my display via USB-C/thunderbolt anyhow.

I am considering what to do now. I feel it's time for a new battery, and a new keyboard alone is well over 100euros. So likely 250-300 euros to get it working again for some time. Or buy a reduced 2023 one? Really don't want an rtx , I'm fine with inbuilt graphics.. Best would be waiting out for a reduced 2024 version next year black friday and just replace the keyboard because without e it's unusable. Edit: I ordered a new keyboard and palm rest for 90€ from China now - Had to take Spanish keyboard again as German keyboard I was not able to find anywhere for order. and that way my lg will look much better again as the palm rest had too many paint chips. Also ordered a Lexar NM 790 2TB drive for adding some storage. Wanted a 4GB but couldn't get one at a decent price. NM790 is the most efficient drive right now you can put in a notebook. Will delegate then Samsung 980 1TB to secondary drive and remove the in build drive. That should save some little bit of energy as the in built drive by LG has 0.2w on standby or so while Samsung 980 an Lexar NM 790 are the absolut champs on idle (according to Techpowerup which has the best reviews in that regard I can find on the net). So guess I try to keep it for at least one more year - and then next year black friday upgrade to a better laptop - hopefully 2024 model gets a bit stiffer, adds a 450-500nits matte screen and it looks now like with firmware updates meteor lake actually is quite efficient (same as Ryzen) - just have to hope meteor lake actually can really decrease idle power or surfing the net power draw. Edit: newest battery stats - not yet 400 cycles - but battery below 80% capacity: Battery Name LGC-LGC Manufacture Name LG Serial Number 20241 Manufacture Date Power State Charging, AC Power Current Capacity (in %) 51.5% Current Capacity Value 32.690 mWh Full Charged Capacity 63.530 mWh Designed Capacity 80.000 mWh Battery Health 79.4% Voltage 8.168 millivolts Charge/Discharge Rate 38.634 milliwatts Chemistry Lithium Ion Low Battery Capacity (1) 200 mWh Low Battery Capacity (2) 400 mWh Critical Bias Number of charge/discharge cycles 387 Battery Temperature Remaining battery time for the current activity (Estimated) Full battery time for the current activity (Estimated) Remaining time for charging the battery (Estimated) 00:56:04 Total time for charging the battery (Estimated) 01:55:31

Dunno, last time I was in Taiwan I had some nice ones in my hand. Also Acer and Samsung have light big screen notebooks now. And if LG sticks with Intel on gram series likely battery life even with meteor lake cannot rival and 7000/8000 series. But so far no battery life numbers for low load use cases of meteor lake have shown up.

Yeah, LG reallye neds to invest like 50-100 grams to make the case stiffer. Add 2-3 bumpers on the bottom, and some connectors between lower and upper layer of the case, stiffen the display with some carbon stringers. Yeah I use the laptop very hard when transporting it. I need a laptop to join me while trekking or hiking and don't treat it lightly. But so far dell and Lenovo business Laptops held up better. Just my Lenovo t480s was a lemon. Asus right now is definitely ahead on light and sturdy compartment. They did invest the additional weight (just that they took it away from battery to kinda match LG gram weight). Let's hope LG improves this in 2024. The biggest default of my gram is still the not light enough display with some sun around. It's just the question now. Replace battery and keyboard or go for a 2024 notebook all together. I really want to stick to 16" and lightweight and compact. But want 500nits display in semi matte, and a little bit sturdier design. No need for more power but better efficiency please. 11gen Intel is still powerful enough as I use servers for computing. New generation GPU for me and most business users it's only needed sometimes for video. There really should be a stronger separation from modern GPU on codecs and efficient CPU for anyone never gaming. It's like smartphone - wanna shoot good video/Pictures you need to go flagship SOC even though otherwise a mid range SOC would be alright.

Next default, the SD card reader stopped working and my display has around 20 dead pixels by now. Battery degradation stopped after summer. So it's mainly a temperature problem if used around 30° or more ambient temps it degrades very quickly.

I got my keyboard working for a couple more weeks by exchanging the e letter - however by now it's really broken. "e" is wrongly registered or too late on like every 5. time - for the N°1 letter by usage this is horrible. So I need a new keyboard. Also the battery is degrading like crazy now - Within 2 weeks from 69 to 67kwh. I think it's nearing it's end of life and the degradation will be pretty quick now. Cannot fault the battery too much, but the keyboard is really annoying - that*s way too fast to break (and no there is no dirt below the keycap). Maybe that's due to the excessive flex so the keyboard breaks faster. The build quality is simply not fully up to Lenovo/HP/Dell business notebooks but seems more like their premium consumer noteboolks.

I never had a USB-C actually failing on me if not for water damage. The problem (on phones much more) is rather that you get some dirt and it adds ups. A sim card remover is for me the best way to clean USB-C ports. With smartphones this is much more problematic because the phone is in your pocket and there is often dirt too. E.g. worst tissue paper bits. With a laptop hard to get dirt inside to problematic amounts. Oh yeah because of the substantial warming up from wireless vs wired charging I would never go for wireless instead. Ruins your battery faster. I guess that's why my LG gram will not make it to 500 full cycles on 80% remaining - because in summer I spent usually in Cyprus and use the laptop at around 30-35° on battery. That likely stresses much more than a nice 20-22°. With the actually pretty strong heat buildup on charging on the Gram I would guess using it at 6-12° ambient temperature is best for battery. I guess it goes around 10° above while charging and 15-22° is the optimal battery temp while charging.