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Found 15 results

  1. Hello, I recently installed the zotac GTX 1070 (these MXM GPUs out of their zBoxes) in my M18x R2 and so far everthing works fine(besides the strange fan behaviour, but thats another topic). As the lack of LVDS support I have to use the GPU in SG mode, so it's running over the iGPU. When connecting an external monitor I noticed that its also connected just to the iGPU which is bad for me as I want to use a high refreshrate screen. I digged through the schematics of the laptop(easily avialable) and noticed that the video outputs are switched by MUX switches that are controlled by the EC. My question now is: is there any way to switch these chips by software like a bios setting or something else? Otherwise I would just set them manually as these chips just get an high or low signal to change the input.
  2. Hi all, hope you don't mind me asking some help without spending another couple of hours on this. I'm close to finishing my M18xR2 build, I've spend countless hours into researching the other stuff and all that is left is the RAM. Before I actually decided to bring this R2 up to date, I already bought 4x8GB sticks of RAM but it was basic RAM. More specifically Samsung RAM sticks, M471B1G73DB0-YK0 With pretty bad timings as you can see, 1600MHz 11-11-11-28-39: Can I do anything with this RAM if I want maximum performance? When it comes to overclocking this RAM I found this: Or would you guys advise me some other RAM at 2133MHz for example out of the box. I've seen people using Corsair and Kingston RAM. So couple of questions: 1) If you had to buy something, what would it be? 2) Am I better running lower frequency if I can get latency down that way? Does higher/lower frequency in combination with lower/higer latency make any difference between gaming and benchmarking? 3) When I buy them, can I just plug them in all at once, boot to BIOS and add the frequency and timings in a custom XMP profile and that should be it? 4) What happens if I can't boot anymore, I need to reset bios by clearing CMOS? Or is that something that won't happen. 5) If I buy some 2133MHz RAM with tight timings, I can try to tweak everything some more but the frequency? Since the R2 only supports RAM up to 2133MHz. Or can I try to overclock that too. 6) Do I really need software like Thaiphoon Burner to write stuff to the RAM sticks? Or can I just do it all from BIOS? Or is there any other software I should use or any guide I should follow? Again, sorry for the questions, but I don't feel like spending another 10 hours going through every single forum and NBRchive, hope you can forgive me :) Thanks!
  3. Found this picture quite some time ago on NBR and couldnt for the life of me remember who posted it, so posting this here for preservation sake. I tested these settings myself on my M18X R2 with A11 unlocked bios with great success, However due to my single pipe heatsink my cpu was in the high 80s to low 90s depending on the load. So your mileage may vary depending on your setup, its no where near what the XM chips can achieve i know but at least its something considering i was under the impression these chips were completely locked down.
  4. Hello guys I've got a pretty weird problem with my M18x R2. I already searched the web but couldn't find an answer. A few days ago I changed some settings in the bios, if I remember correctly DMVT Pre-Allocated. After saving this setting the notebook refuses to even POST. I get no beep errors or anything. If I press the power button the system turns on, the LEDs turn on and then the system shuts itself off. I already reset the CMOS, the IME, tested different hardware configurations and so on. If I remove all the memory sticks I actually get the memory error code. At this point I'm pretty sure that the bios got corrupted for some reason when I saved these settings. Did anyone had a similar problem and got a solution for this? I repaired lots of notebooks but never had an error like this... EDIT: The Bios installed is the a15 unlocked which worked fine until recently. Overall there were no problems at all indicating different kind of problems. I also tried the backflash method with the A03 Bios but the system refuses to read the USB stick. I've used the same stick as last time I reflashed the Bios.
  5. I was going to add this to my existing upgrade project thread but figured to separate it to make it easier to find for those looking to purchase one. So ive finally joined the nvme club and upgraded my m18x r2. I got my adapter from alibaba and was cautious at first since the picture shown was of an older revision, luckily though it turned out to be the latest one (at time of writing): Heres the link to purchase one: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/The-Adapter-New-original-MXM-to_1600069323445.html# While i was at it i decided to upgrade the blu ray drive to a ssd since it was starting to act up. I also swapped my single pipe cpu heatsink for a dual pipe to better cool my semi OCed 3740qm. Not sure if coincidence or not, but i love how it fits inside of the cutout of where the original GPU heatsink used to sit. Makes for swapping it out a lot easier, the screw for the nvme drive isnt magnetic tho so be wary of that when swapping SSDs. As for speeds, im happy to report this adapter achieves close to full speeds like with @Maxware79 and @ssj92 Adapters. Thank you also maxware and ssj for helping me decide which NVMe drive to go with, ultimately i settled on the samsung 970 evo plus 2tb. Also, the NVMe drive is bootable and im happily booting windows 10 off of it.
  6. Since I'm now running a GTX 1070 in my M18xR2, I decided what to do with the empty secondary GPU slot. I decided not to use it for a MXM to NVMe Adapter, since I think a normal SSD gives all the speed I need. What I did decide was to use the secondary GPU slot for extra cooling for the CPU. I'm gonna use the secondary GPU heatsink and fan, and solder some heatpipes from the triple piple CPU heatsink to the secondary GPU heatsink. That will allow me to keep the 3940XM even cooler and push it even more. I checked and it can certainly be done. I can easily add an extra 3 heatpipes. When it's done, I will post some pictures. I ordered some low temperature solder (melts at 138°C), that's low enough to keep the heatpipes from bursting/exploding while soldering. The second option is a thermal conductive epoxy, but I'm having trouble finding a good one with good thermal conductivity, can be cured at room temperature and has a glass transition temperature that is high enough (this is the temperature at which the epoxy starts to become liquid again). That being said, that is not my problem. The thing is I prefer not to make any custom plate that fits in the secondary GPU slot on which I can mount the GPU heat sink. I have an old AMD GPU from before that fits and which is perfect to mount the 100W AMD heatsink on. My question is, will this interfere with the GTX 1070. Will I have boot problems with the 2 different GPU's? Or is there a way to completely disable the secondary GPU slot from the unlocked bios so that the AMD card doesn't get detected and powered? That way it can act like a dummy plate on which I can mount the heatsink. I checked but can't really see an option that fits disabling it in bios, unless I'm missing it. Or can I just boot in windows and disable the AMD GPU from there in the hardware? Does that mean the GPU won't be powered in that case as soon as windows loads the next time? Not really sure what the best option is here. Of course I don't want any heat originating from that dummy GPU. If someone has any experience with this... Thanks!
  7. Friend having issues flashing moddem M18 (R1) bios from link below. Managed to down grade bios to earlier non-modded version (A15 to A10) Unable to patch modded bios for M18 using dos bootable disk and command: fptw64 -f bios.bin -bios Laptop had nearlly fully charged battery (battery is new 4 months ago) and plugged in to mains Engineer tried via dos bootable disk and some other way Error error 28: protected range registers are currently set by bios m18 Any ideas?
  8. I'm trying to overclock the display on my M18x R2. It just upgraded it to a 3940XM and a GTX 1070, running SG from the unlocked bios (the NVIDIA Optimus option sort of speak). Right now it's at 60Hz and I'm trying to overclock it with CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) in Windows 10, hoping to get it to 85 Hz or something. But for some reason I just can't get it to work. I add custom resolutions with higher refresh rates to it like so: Afterwards I reboot the laptop and I should be able to see the added refresh rates, but I can only see the standard 2 which were already present (the 60Hz and 40Hz ones): If successful I should be able to see them there no? I know other users have overclocked their M18x displays using CRU. What am I doing wrong here? I see in CRU also the following display settings: Do I have to change anything here? I hope someone can help me out here as I've been stuck on this for half a day now lol :) I'm starting to think it has something to do with the fact that I'm using Optimus and Intel HD graphics is not allowing changing refresh rates. I tried adding a custom resolution in the Intel HD Graphics Control Panel: But it says that "Custom Resolution Exceeds Maximum Bandwidth". Even If I try to put a value lower than 60Hz. So it just can't be changed it seems. I read somewhere online that it took a while for Intel to change their drivers so that 3rd party EDID applications for internal and external panels on Intel platforms were allowed to make these changes to the refresh rates. But I also read they only did this for Intel 4th generation (Haswell) and up. But I have a 3rd generation Ivy Bridge. Which means I'm out of luck? How did all those other people achieve overclocking the display in the M18x R2 then? They're all running Ivy Bridge CPU's. Or is it because they have iGFX disabled and are only running on the discrete nvidia GPU? Because afaik that's not something I can do with the gtx 1070. I need to run in SG mode in bios, if I do PEG mode I get the 8 beeps scenario and get stuck. I don't think I can run purely on discrete GPU, or can I somehow?
  9. Hi all, I was hoping to get some advice on this. I've been going back and forth between upgrading to an RTX 3000 or an GTX 1070. Since I have the chance to buy a GTX 1070 for very cheap right now, I decided to do that and maybe upgrade to an RTX 5000 at a later stage. The GTX 1070 in question is this one, I think it's an MSI one: I have a couple of questions: 1) I know it's a bit larger than MXM 3.0b standard but with cutting the MXM slot in the corners and modding the (Nvidia 100W) heatsink a little bit, should I be able to fit it? I can't seem to find any example online of someone using this specific card it seems. 2) Will the 120W power draw be fine in the 100W MXM slot? Or will I experience throttling because of this? And if it's a problem, will I be able to fix this? (with altered vbios for example). If anyone has an answer to either of these questions, that would be awesome. Thanks!
  10. Just thought id make this post as abit of a heads up for anyone wanting to run win11 on the old m18x r2. I upgraded from LTSC to standard enterprise to test out and whatever graphical app or game i tried to run resulted in a dxgmms1.sys BSOD (was repeatable with the epic games launcher and heaven benchmark). Turns out this is due to a setting called Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling, which is on by default in windows 11 but not 10. Once this is turned off everything runs perfectly fine, ive attached some screenshots of where the setting is: Hopefully this helps others, im assuming this isnt just exclusive to the enterprise edition but also affects other editions too.
  11. Hi, I'm looking for a few items : - Dead MXM card - I want to trade my RTX 3000 for Dell Precision 7550, 7750, 7560 or 7760 for an RTX A3000 or A4000, mainly for the undervolting capability - A Quadro RTX A3000, A4000 or A5000 for Dell Precision 7550, 7750, 7560 or 7760 - Dead Graphics card like Quadro P3000/3200/4000/4200/5000/5200 or similar GTX cards like 1060/1070 using a standard MXM form factor only (Dell, MSI, HP, Aetina) - A graphics card for my Precision 7550 which can be found on Precision 7550/7750/7560/7760, preferably dead to lower cost.
  12. What can I get for a fully working M18X R1 Mainboard?
  13. just incase you are like me and looking for a rolling case for alienware area-51m and/or m18x for meetings and travel i searched alot online to find one that fits comfortably for both laptops together or separately and the only one i saw that fits both and quite affordable is this solo macDougal bag. here is my review for it incase you are interested in such a bag https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6csfgwFbows&t=2s
  14. just incase you are like me and looking for a rolling case for alienware area-51m and/or m18x for meetings and travel i searched alot online to find one that fits comfortably for both laptops together or separately and the only one i saw that fits both and quite affordable is this solo macDougal bag. here is my review for it incase you are interested in such a bag https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6csfgwFbows&t=2s
  15. Hi there First and foremost, id like to give a huge thanks to Maxware79 for selling me the final part i needed to complete this little project of mine. More on this later. I dont often post on here but figured id share my little rebuild/upgrade project ive been working on and share some insights ive discovered along the way. After getting an M18X R1 last year and upgrading that as far as i could take it (780m) i wanted to get an R2 next. So i kept an eye on ebay to see what would turn up, and found a Nebula Red r2 which i decided to bid on. Cosmetically it looked rather decent aside from some small chips here and there (see pics below), however i noticed it was running on intel graphics so assumed it was missing the GPUs which was fine. However when it arrived, turned out the whole thing had been parted out, leaving just the mother and daughter board with a broken wifi card and a msata ssd, basically enough to make the thing operate and function as a office machine. It also had some weird bootup behaviour which i quickly discovered was due to a dead cmos battery, once that was changed it booted normally. Also whoever parted it out did some weirdness with the cable management (the screen LED cable was under the left hinge and palmrest, and was threaded thru the hole where the GPU heatsink would of sat) it also had the wrong screws in it used in places which i promptly replaced with the correct ones. The battery also only had 20% wear on it, which surprised me. link to spare cmos batteries: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323266730201?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 So i got to work finding the parts i needed (speakers/ODD cable/new wifi card etc) and installed those, i temporarily put one of my faulty 580m's in there from my r1 to verify the mxm slot was functional which luckily it was. The only nuisance part to sort out was the wifi card, it seems whoever worked on this previous had threaded the screw so badly nothing i tried could remove it. So i taped around the card and held a magnet nearby and used a hand drill (yep one of those ancient things) and slowly drilled out the screw, making sure the magnet was catching the shavings. Afterwards i used the magnet again to collect any stray shavings that might of gotten away. To secure the new card i used a rather ghetto solution of using a matchstick to wedge it in place long enough to test it thoroughly. Once i was satisfied i decided to put a small blob of gel superglue in place of the old screw, figured with this i could easily drill it out again if needed without having to worry about potential shorts from metal shavings. my ghetto wifi card holder: As far as the ODD cable was concerned, luckily i found a seller who was selling a faulty dvd drive with the cable included for 12 bucks or so, with that i simply reused the Blu ray drive i took out of the R1 i had (the R1 is using a HDD adapter in place of the original blu ray drive so no loss there). The lid hinges were also loose resulting in the screen wobbling, found out that this is a common occurrence from Maxware79 . All thats needed is to remove the 2 small screws at the base of the screen assembly which allows the black piece on the lid to slide off, revealing the screws that allow the metal lid to be removed in order to access the hinge screws. Once all those were retightened it was good as new, no more wobble. Now to decide what GPU upgrade i wanted to go with, ultimately i decided on a Quadro P4000 after hearing how they are pretty much plug n play and very similar performance of a cross between a gtx 1060 and 1070. Id like to thank Raidriar for his modded bios, which enabled me to force the machine to run in optimus mode which was a requirement for anything above a 9 series GPU. The GPU arrived promptly from china (probably the fastest parcel ive ever received, took under a week). taishan1980 is the user on ebay for those who also want to go down this route. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264330931952?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Pictures of GPU in Question, with the 580m bracket attached: Please ignore the ram, i have already swapped that out with 4x 8GB HyperX the heatsink i bought had no electrical tape on it, so as a precautionary measure i decided to put some scotch 33+ tape around the die to prevent any possible contact between the heatsink and any of the exposed components. I also reused the X-Bracket from the 580m, which worked rather nicely. Again i used a small piece of tape to cover the contact points under the bracket just incase of a short (see pic above), Once installed it booted up no problem and worked perfectly in legacy mode. The drivers were super simple to modify, due to the quadros being used in a wide variety of laptops they only included the GPU code in the inf files, no vendor or subvendor at all, only thing needed was to change the string from 1BB1 to 1BB7 on all relevant entries. Once that was done, drivers installed no problem. I should also mention that in this case, since optimus is being used, the standard inf file needed to be modified rather then the dell/alienware specific one. A word of caution, dont ever use the FN + F7 hotkey. I decided to be curious and try it and it resulted in the laptop not being bootable, but to fix that you simply have to remove the cmos battery and short the pins. Plug the battery back in and hold ALT while powering the machine back on, this forces the diagnostics to pop up along with resetting the bios to default values again (the modded bios i used defaults to the iGPU luckily). Heres the GPU-Z Stats: Another thing i decided to do was remove the deteriorating rubberised finish on the palmrest, used WD40 to remove the rubber by scrapping it off. After i polished it with some Mothers VLR and a scouring pad to buff out any leftover rubber/marks. Not the best of finishes but im rather pleased with the results. The final part of this laptop i had to fix was the HDD connector and cable, which luckily a user on ebay was selling a bunch of the connectors in batches of 10. I simply took the latches off those and put one onto the existing connector to fix that (took picture before i decided to strip the rubber off the palmrest) The HDD interposer however was a headache. I tried 2 supposedly brand new Interposers from amazon, both of which didnt work properly (one read the bottom-most drive, but only had 15-20mb/s read speed and full write speed and the other cable outright didnt detect the same drive at all) so id suggest avoiding those like the plague. Picture below of said cable: Thankfully Maxware79 mentioned he had a spare cable for sale and he was kind enough to test it prior to sending to verify it worked on his machine, with his cable all 3 drives worked flawlessly. His original cable for point of reference, this is the one you need: Heres a pic of all the drives working, with the new cable in place. the 2 drives which are at roughly 250ish mb/s reads and writes are the mSata SSD and the middle connection on the cable which both run at Sata 2: Overall im very happy with this machine, im glad i was able to restore it to its former glory. As far as gaming is concerned its very similar to my 17 r4 with its gtx 1070, with the added benefit of the m18x specific features and the larger screen real estate. I also have replaced the keyboard, turns out the m18x r2 and the m17x r4 use the same keyboards. Used a Greek M17X R4 keyboard which has the same US layout, which is why it also has the symbols and the updated windows 10 key. Also made a 2nd topic with the MXM to NVMe upgrade, to make it easier to find for those who want to buy one but ill also add it here to complete this guide: Updated post to add this playlist for various games running on the Quadro P4000, by no means a scientific benchmark per say but least it gives a general idea of what kind of performance to expect. I will update this over time:
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