Teo

Hi @strijrator I have seen your setup, sorry to say this but if is the i9 11900k drawing 70W something must be wrong, is a bit far from the TDP which is 125w. Are you sure to be running on the right settings? This CPU can handle around 180w to 200w on turbo boost. Here my settings when I do overclock, but of course it has to be running on point the coolers and the temps on check.

Hi @strijrator I see, well let me answer. Did you have any issues with ram when you were on the stock Origin bios? It seems you were able to run 64gb at 3200 with an 11900k with no problems, right? You are also using the gear 1 bios, I assume? I am also on an 11900k. - I mostly did not have any errors or problems on the bottom ram slot 1 & 3 even on stock Bios (1.07.08TOPC) but did have some crashes at first, it was due to GPU overheat and overclock, the GPU thermal paste was not enough and it had a big gap, so it got solve by the copper shim 0.5mm. that's what I could realize. I am using Kingston FURY impact CL20 64GB RAMS which has automatic XPM runs smoothly without tweaking or extra settings, as long the laptop supports XMP it will be automatically enabled, I haven't touch the timings until I got updated the BIOS to 1.07.09RTR6, but messing around didn't give any extra boost and some timings mess-up my laptop stability, so right now is on default and XMP enabled, is running solid. I really have to see what time tables are set when on auto. I will let you know. Yes I updated the BIOS #1: 1.07.09RTR6 just for 2 memory slot. Yes I am also using 11900k CPU. Honestly, I am mostly just concerned with getting my ram to run in slots 1 and 3 at its rated spec (3200mhz CL 22 1.2V). I might not even try unlocking my current bios. If you look at my post that I made earlier in this thread, I detail the issues I was having with my ram. Basically, I am having instability running a G. Skill 64gb (2x32) kit at its rated speed of 3200mhz CL 22 1.2V in slots 1 and 3. When I try to put one stick at a time, I still have instability, which is strange. Maybe it is a problem with the ram itself, but w++hen I put the ram in slots 2 and 4, the system is stable, but the ram runs at 2667mhz CL19. Also, I don't think the stock Origin bios allows ram capacities greater than 64gb since when I put the 64gb kit and my original 16gb kit together, the system would turn on but only display a black screen and eventually turn back off. giltheone has this same laptop and was having similar issues to me. He posted about his issue in this thread no too long ago. - I personally haven't tried yet the other slots, I haven't seen what the speed clocks are on those slots. BUT XMG said they have managed to make it run on high clock with all the slots populated. Since I have not plans on using 128GB yet I have left it alone. I also used 2 slots because it is say that is faster faster than 4 slot. I am currently on Origin bios 1.07.08TOPC and EC 1.07.04. Since I want to be sure, going straight from this bios to the latest XMG one should be fine? Also, would I need to update my EC to XMG's latest one afterwards? I am also guessing that I don't have to update the ME firmware (its version can be seen under the bios and EC version in the bios). I probably need to backup my current bios since I cannot find any archive of it anywhere in case the XMG bios is unstable or I want to go back. Oddly enough, it is not even on Origin's driver support site. -Yeah Origin doesn't have those BIOS files on their website, only Clevo and XMG, but is only the update not full BIOS, is better and recommended to make back up of your own Bios, I made a Backup of my BIOS even before it was build and powered on, I believe is a clean ORIGIN BIOS, I did compare it before and after installing all the rest parts and windows on it. I forgot once to updated the EC and I didn't have any issues, so I did updated the EC later, I couldn't see any difference. On this thread you can find most of the Bios for Clevo model (I just cannot remember what was the vendors name). I have thought about tuning my ram to run at 2933mhz CL 21 or slower so I can try to run the ram in slots 1 and 3 without stability issues. However, I believe the only way to do this is through an unlocked bios. At the beginning of this thread, electrosoft said that the bios unlocker provided by ViktorV will work with most bios versions up to 1.07.08, so I'm guessing it could work with my stock Origin bios? If not, I guess I will have to find a bios from another vendor that is version 1.07.07. I have also heard of customizing ram speed and latency through Thaiphoon Burner, but apparently the ability to that is locked behind a paywall. Yes it does works for ORIGIN 1.07.08 I have tested it, if at first you don't see the hid99den menus you just have to : load optimal configurations or defaul settings on the Bios and it will appear. Whether I decide to flash my bios to the XMG one or unlock it in its current state, I just want to be totally sure not to brick my system. - I believe it wont get bricked unless the files are corrupt, wrong USB memory format, wrong BIOS, energy shortage during update. I always have a programmer just in case (CH431A). If you do upgrade your bios to XMG read carefully their instructions, you might need to flash it twice to properly take effect they said, is a DESKOT laptop combination, so somehow not everything starts well on the first time, a 2nd reflash it might needed. I think I will try unlocking the bios with ViktorV's script first and manually adjusting ram speed. Hopefully I can just select another JEDEC profile to simplify things. -Thats pretty safe, it works very well, I had not issues using it. I hope does works well for you. Interestingly, another user on this thread stated that 64gb at 3200mhz will not work on this laptop since it is too much strain on the IMC. It is also advised in the manual to run ram in slots 1 and 3 first and then 2 and 4. However, unlike slots 1 and 3, slots 2 and 4 seem to be stable for me at least, even though they downclock the ram to 2667mhz. Ram with this laptop is definitely confusing to say the least. Yeah those issues with those RAMS on the slot 1 &3 compatibilities are a bit weird. It is said that 1 and 3 are faster and better. probably the laptop cannot handle a 22CL Memory RAM, mine is 20CL. or G-Skill Ripjaws memory rams aren't very stable? what could it be? Anyway, I really appreciate your help and response! 😃 I have been trying to figure this all out for quite a while now. You are welcome, sorry if I couldn't give you all the answers you needed, I hope you can find the solution to your Laptop. My laptop gave me more issues with overheat than other, even my SSD too gave BSOD blue screen, was getting hot, they said PCIE 4.0 SSD are hotter than their predecessors, over 60c I was getting instability issues, after fixing the overheat issues on the SSD never again was crashing. (btw I have a SAMSUNG 990M 2TB, I was scared because later after a knew they had a firmware issue with their lifespan, the lifespan used to drop quick, but on my case I don't see is getting degraded the lifespan or condition. almost full with a year and still at 100% good condition) I guess SAMSUNG got it fix before I got mine.

Hi @momo25 Sorry to heard that, I guess whoever made that cooling water/air heatsink it was not perfect at all, probably every area is uneven, Is a bit hard to trust the quality control of that store. That’s why before buying it I read about others experiences, it wasn’t worth I felt, the air cooling degraded a bit, it wasn’t efficient as they said on the comments, the metal used to vent heat was too thick. (To be honest I was really tempted to buy it, did look great and it was less the hassle to make one from scratch or how to make one, but price and efficiency was not on balance.) Yeah even for me too, those copper IHS for 11th gen CPU was gone before I started building my own laptop. I hope you have managed to fix your cooling problems on the laptop. I still feel the original heatsink is far better just needs that extra water cooler pipe. (Sorry for the late reply)

Hi @strijrator Yes my Bios was stock when I did upgrade it. About the post you replied to, is for unlocking XMG BIOS, there is not software for unlocking it so I had to do it manually if you have read the post. I guess you know that at the beginning of this thread you can find the software to unlock any BIOS brand if the version is below 1.07.08. I have tested on mine on Origin models, works well. I updated my laptop with XMG Bioses, when you download it you Will get 2 files. The reason for this 2 files is for memory compatibility, if I am not wrong (Gear1 and Gear2, or sort of) one is for laptops with 2 memories populated and the other one is for 4 memories populated. (To my understanding: Intel didn’t collaborate so much to produce a better Bios for x-170km when 4 memories were populated, the speed was always downgraded to 2666mhz and many other issues, so XMG team worked hard and made it work and improved many other things, not like 100% full speed 3200mhz but very close) They said the XMG is much stable compare to other BIOS version, so I think it will better to try it if it solves the Memory issues you are having. Note: you can always revert the Bios update of your Laptops vendor if available, had zero issues, I changed my laptop versions back and forward from 1.07.07 ~ 1.07.09RTR and ORIGIN, CLEVO STYLE, XMG (I mean BIOS from those brands, mine is from ORIGIN vendor) and had no issues. Sorry for my late reply. I hope you have found a way to work things out.

Hello Momo25 If you bought this same model of Water cooler from Aliexpress try this measurements. I don’t know if you already figure out. Also if you can since you delided the CPU try to sanded with a thin sander paper, it will create a better surface for contact. tips: I did use a copper shim of 0.5mm for the GPU and applied Arthic thermal paste, my GPU runs at 50c~60c on heavy load and benchmarks. If you open 2 pages back from this post you will see all what I have done to my laptop, I think I also posted what was the thickness of my thermalpads, also other users has posted it You can find those infos, if you look back on the first post of this thread. Best of luck.

If someone is interested on how to unlock the hidden menus on Bios 1.07.09RTR6 from XMG I have found a way and it does work but it can be a bit laborious and risky. Be aware that Bios modification could brick your laptop or if wrongly modifying your Bios can cause malfunction. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK ⚠️ I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE OF ANY DAMAGE CAUSE ON THE MOD OF YOUR BIOS AND LAPTOP. Before proceeding you must have already some knowledge on how to Backup, Edit and Flash Bios, otherwise I advice not to try. Left all the steps on a PDF file. XMG_1.07.09RTR6_UNLOCK_STEPS.pdf NEEDED TOOLS • FPTW64 (is has to be a version compatible for Intel ME v15) • UEFITOOLS 0.28.0 (capable to replace any REGIONS, Volume, sections, VSS etc) • HxD Editor or any good Hexadecimal Editor.

@kela-slk hello sorry that I couldn’t reply any sooner, I have been very busy these days. yes the hidden_menu_unlocked program only works for 1.07.08 Bios below and except XMG Bioses. As it was already mentioned on this forum, I also have tried and it doesn’t work. About the unlocked XMG bios, it might be a bit hard to elaborate or create a guide. I myself wanted to create an executable file to flash the Bios on the necessary regions to unlock the menus. But I couldnt, I couldn’t get the tools to do so and I am not an expert on programming. If you know how to make dumps, extract and edit BIOS regions, volumes or PE32 regions with Uefitools and some Hexidecimal editors then maybe you can find where to edit those letters to unlock your Bios. I had checked the Bios update prior flashing if all the regions were populated before the laptop was on and I couldn’t find those strings that needs to be modified. Some regions were blank. So to unlock your Bios you need to create a full dump of your own Bios with FPTW. I can’t just share my Bios, it might not work. I could try to help you but is all at your own risk.

@MaxxD Hello sorry I have been really busy these days. Good job making the laptop work with an alternative power source. 👍🏻 Now that you guys have mentioned about the copper IHS from Aliexpress to be a bit worse than the original IHS things makes sense. If I am not wrong My CPU originally had like around 40C during iddle time and after deliding went up to 50c but when running with the water cooler dropped down to 29c on iddle. So the copper IHS from Aliexpress is not that good at all. 🤨😕 one day I will have to swap the IHS to try. Sadly the original IHS got some scratches when removing, maybe it will be fine if sanded. Thanks for the updates.

@MaxxD Nice 😊👍🏻

@MaxxD hi i don’t think it is necessary, my laptop has been working without the XMG EC 1.07.04RT1. (I have been using the original 1.07.04 that my laptop came with) I have been looking for the details of what’s new on the EC update, what are the benefits but couldn’t find any details. at the end I did flashed but I don’t see any difference. I just feel that maybe is a bit slower or is Just my impression. Or is because here where I am is summer and is pretty hot, so I can’t keep lower temperatures and high clocks. I don’t think it’s necessary unless we can see what are those new changes, if they are essential in any way. (Note: maybe it will work well now with the Control Center, I haven’t install it back yet, you know that the EC controls most of the hardware area and components, so before the fans were acting strangely, the CPU overclock program was not opening and so on. I haven’t tested if Control Center will work better with EC 1.07.04RT1)

@MaxxD hi I am using the KBC/EC 1.07.04 can be seen on some of the pictures I have posted. I hope it works for you.

@MaxxD sorry just to clarify. the XMG is more stable compare to other version Bios I got installed before, I got more crashes on the original BIOS (Origin AEON17 model) that came just by running benchmarks. If you do some overclock and mess around with the clocks or voltages, obviously you will get some crashes or shutdown that is normal, you have to find the right settings and it will run fine. Just try the Bios, you can always downgrade the BIOS with same Bios Update provided by your vendor. Origin doesn’t have anymore BIOS updates so I used the Clevo one. Origin 1.07.09rtr to Style Note 1.07.08 I Even went lower to 1.07.07 then I went back Style Note 1.07.08 to XMG 1.07.09rtr Then modified the XMG 1.07.09rtr Bios file and unlocked, flashed with FPTW64 and running well with all menus unlocked. Lucky the regions aren’t locked. You can make full dump with FPTW64 (I was just testing if it was possible to downgrade BIOSes with the updates *.exe)

@MaxxD That’s crazy, you have a lot of experiences and worked on a manufacture? I see so now this laptop is a complex machine, I hope you can fix your laptop after all the problems you have faced. I know is not so pleasant to have something that have a lot of problems or issues but I guess you learn a lot, get a lot of experiences, what works what doesn’t. Yeah the XMG Bios version has been more stable to me, when I was doing some benchmarks and tweak a bit the Overcloaking configurations it use crash or just simply shut down by itself, for some reason they do recommend it on this forum. All the best.

@MaxxD Hello again, You are welcome, I am also learning, I am new at this stuff. I see. yeah I can see that some problems can resurface on this laptop and hasnt been refined well, if there is 2 main power rail is perhaps to properly control 2 power brick (Is just my guess) if your friend have the diagrams or schematics of that laptop it might explain that or it should had. I am using the BIOS from XMG for that reason, they said they have fixed many issues related to EC chip and memory if I am not wrong. You can go back and forward with bios updates if they don’t perform as you expect. Mine is an Origin model I found many random crashes on 1.07.08 versión so I switched to XMG 1.07.09RTR and it seems more stable. If your voltage is not stable then there must be a faulty power controller or already some bad coils. Hard thing is to know what is failing, something is no delivering proper power. Or could be some bad setup in the bios related to memory clock. Yeah -SM model many people said is better in many ways. I am a bit of a technician (still learning) is like a hobby, not afraid to break it, I fix stuff and laptops are a new area to try. I tried to get the best of the line but I mean on potential not stability. And I prefer socketed CPU and GPU, I don’t like the soldered ones on the board, I am learning to solder those things but I cannot tell yet if I am doing well yet. Plus you can’t get 100% good spares, mostly fakes one or dying ones, even microchips, have to get things straight from manufacture or buy second hand laptops for spare only. sorry for expanding too much, I hope you can find the solution. greetings.

@MaxxD Hi. I still have mine running fine. Did some benchmarks and my own watercooler running fine without issues, and finally on XMG 1.07.09 I did unlock the BIOS. i once installed the Control Center is terrible still, I think I did install the latest version but has bugs. Such as overclock app doesn’t not open (it did once only) and stays on high clock cooking it self, performs terrible, and also the fans controller app is bad, suddenly starts spinning like crazy and only stops if you open it select manual and back again to automatic. Control Center (sorry I don’t remember what version I had but ov6 up) is terrible. So without it there you can set it up for not thermal throttle and limits. I just use throttlestop. I Even put it all to max not limits and ran fine scoring 15,456 on cinebench, I am still testing more, I barely had it couple of months ago. I don’t think that score is the best but yet still decent for a standard overclock. The thing I haven’t done is to change the XMP profile, that’s why I was tweaking to get the BIOS unlocked. I think this laptop runs fine, just need proper seating pads and thermal paste, right cooler, the right apps, right setup and I think it does fine.

@oduska hello If you haven’t bought any fans, you can search on EBay perhaps, I think they do sell it per unit. Or here on Aliexpress, a single fan or both. I just found this on AliExpress: 4,670円 | X170SM CPU GPU FAN For CLEVO X17SN X170 X17SM X170SM-G X7200 X170KM-G BS5812HS-U4P BS6812MS-U4N DC 12V 0.55A https://a.aliexpress.com/_oEwLOIK

@giltheone Hello. sorry for the long text, I thought I could help you out to get confident on updating your Bios but you already know all this. I understand now the situation on your current space. That makes things complicated. I sent you a link with the dump. It could be a bit different just on the configuration or settings that was saved on, I just backed it up as soon as it did arrive before installing the CPU, GPU, SSD and memories. By the way, the EC chip version and ME are the same on both BIOS updates. XMG BIOS MENU (the logo will change when you update the BIOS) all the best.

@giltheone Hello Thank you for the comment, I see you have been struggling a little bit, before I do any update on the Bios I always have a plan B, I do a full dump of the BIOS with a EEPROM PROGRAMMER, I only forgot the EC chip, I didn’t check if is a programmable chip or not or if is embedded onto the BIOS itself, I haven’t touched any further on this BIOS, but I did once on a ALIENWARE 17 R1 (Ami BIOS too on asus Laptops) which has the same H02 Bios (Insyde), they were separated the BIOS and EC chip. I always dump my BIOS directly from the chip, I am not good making dumps from FTPW64 or any other 3rd application, sometimes they are not so easy to operate or not available to the public or not even compatible, so for safer and faster backup I dump it directly from the chip, it has always worked for me so far. (I got the clamp and many other tools to help me connect directly, is very cheap) in this case I had to solder it directly. By the way I did update the BIOS of my laptop from XMG vendor using their files, it has been a while ago, I think you got to make a bootable drive. All the files are there, I think they haven’t take down yet. So going back to each BIOS update from different brands, I can’t tell you 100% how each of them does it, but I know that (correct me if I am wrong) EFI files must be a part of the BIOS, is not the whole BIOS, so just the necessary bits are replaced and like in the Alienware website they say you can upgrade or downgrade your BIOS at will (I don’t know how is it for AEON17X Laptops on their website if you can revert any updates). Like one time I wanted to update my ALIENWARE and I couldn't update it through the application because of some WINDOWS or UEFI protection so I took some tools like EFI64 or AMITOOL or one of those and search what files were different in each section of the BIOS and just replaced it directly with a HEXEditor, there is a Insyde tool, I used to check from there the EFI files what content or section were been replaced and recreated my on updated dump and then later reprogrammed the whole BIOS onto the chip if didnt work I could just flash back the original dump. I think XMG BIOS are actually a full BIOS, is not just an update. I really have to check again in my laptop as I have heard they have changed the BIOS structure. So I think you just can’t use your vendors laptop BIOS update and just revert to the original BIOS you had before. That’s why is important you keep that Bios dump you have managed to back up. I do have the whole dump of my Laptop from ORIGIN if you want to check it out or keep a copy. BIOS: 1.07.08.OBTOPC KBC/EC: 1.07.04 ME FW: 15.0.23.1706. Now I think the ME is within the BIOS. KBC/EC is separate from the BIOS, in some certain laptops they are within the BIOS. I can tell you that so far XMG bios is pretty stable, when I started doing some overclocking or doing some heavy stuff with the original Bios I had a couple of crashes and shutdowns, I heard from some other comments that is a problem ralated to EC sensors that weren’t well programmed, so I guess XMG team fixed those issues and who knows who others already did it, but I haven’t check it out. I hope you can find your answer, I am sorry I can can’t explain well enough all the technical and programming stuff. All the Best.

Hello everyone Just a new update, I free the CPU from its limitations to test how good it was the new modified watercooling, I guess is not throttling at anything but I think it didn't change much. Feels something is holding it back or is just my imagination. There is not thermal limits. - Undervolted -90.8 mV - SPEED Shift EPP= 0 - C states= disable - Prohot= disable - Clock mod= 100% - Turbo Time = Max - PL1 = 1029w - PL2 = 1029 w - Turbo Ratios Limit = Max out - Overclock = Check - Ring Down Bin = check >>>>??? Under this settings I got 15456 points on cinebench with temps ranging between 85c~ to 95c Max. Drew 200watts max.

CLEVO X-170KM-G WATERCOOLER MOD PART-2 (Sorry for the misspelling and not so orderly arranged pictures) (First score on Cinebench with the single watercooler pipe) (some tweaking still learning how to use this software, Intel XTU had a lot bugs and issues, was not friendly) (On the process, joints were to thick) (best option, hard way) (Welding with silver rod and torch, took a while to get it right) (Not painted, assembled ready to go) (copper shim added 30x30, thickness: 0.5mm on GPU, this solved the gap) (Superposition Benchmark 1080 Extreme test, good temps) [Please know that everything was done in a controlled environment to avoid self harm. ]

X170KM-G WATERCOOLING MOD I stumble on the internet with this Forum and found a lot tips and help to build my own Clevo X170KM-G. I just wanted to share my own experiences as well, I will try to make it short. Bought the X170KM body case from ORIGIN with its motherboard for a very good price. I had to slowly get the rest of the parts. I like these type of laptop where every part can be remove or swap, gives you a lot room for improvement. I thought a lot on doing overcloak since the CPU was capable of, obviously I also had to upgrade the Cooling system. I had in mind the one in Aliexpress but after watching some comments I opted to make my own. It was too expensive and not so reliable. I made various sketches and pipe routes to get the best outcome and thermal contact. For test I had an extra heatsink. Bough normal copper pipes from a hardware store instead of the already self made pipe from Ali, those were a bit smaller for my likes (4mm (O.D.)X 3mm (I.D.)) I got something similar as my own laptop. 5mm by 4mm for More area covering. First water cooler was fine I could score 15265 points on Cinebench multicore and had 90c ~95c around, drawing 180w ~ 190w. And 83c on GPU scoring 6976 points on Superposition (stock, couldn’t make any proper overcloak I am still new on that area) I also delided my CPU (11900k) but didn’t got any better cooling performance, was poor, still I didn’t know what was wrong (on idling was hitting 40c ~50c, it wasn’t like that before on the stock heatsink but the watercooler performed well enough). I wasn’t satisfied about the first cooler and decided to add an extra pipe, thought it throughly, could had 2 intake and 2 exits but it wouldn’t be so practical and esthetic wise, so had to be inside with some kind of joint. On the making of the 2nd watercooler I had to practice a lot soldering with torch, I couldn’t find any “Y” joint that would fit on the pipes, those were bigger. After couple of days I manage to solder it properly (note: with solder iron is also good, very strong but it could desolder when soldering back to the heatsink, soldering onto the heatsink you really need a lot of heat 400c about and heater plate + a heat gun, the heatsink does suck a lot heat). I made all the necessary measurements and bending and flattened the whole pipe, step by step, everything had to be done in order. I didn’t have good tools but good enough to do the job. So when all was done I test it for water pressure and flow, it check out to be good, zero leakage, so time to solder it onto the heatsink. Every step was complex, I didn’t expect to runout of solder paste (low type 138c) but I manage to cover all the pipe underneath and add extra on the side, still wanted to add more, since I don’t have much time I had to do it that way. Had to expend about one week 4 hours per day, no everyday I could work on it. I also wanted to paint it as I did but not this time, looks like this heat proof paint doesn’t adhere well on copper, so just raw watercooler. Prior making the 2nd watercooler when I was removing I did realize that the CPU and GPU wasn’t getting proper contact as the stock one, had like 1mm of gap, the thermal paste was not spreading well on the edges. So fixing that gap gave me the normal temps on iddle, about 30c. After mounting the heatsink on the laptop I was surprise that I got extra -10c to -15c on CPU and -30c on GPU. I believe the CPU could still perform better if I apply more solder, the top of the CPU area which is not flat unlike the GPU, Is all pipes. I just run the normal profile as the 1st watercooler to see the differences: - CPU did perform better on temps 80c~85c, on the scores was nearly the same, (as I did mention I didn’t change the overcloaking profile.) - The GPU performed a bit better and had very low temps on Superposition Benchmark. Score: 7691, temps: about 56c max. Well so for now I am leaving it as it is after I reorder the solder paste, I am also looking to solve the fan issue, it does start slow on high temps, I wish it could be programable to start early and gradually increasing speed. Some 3rd party fan software mentioned in the forum didn’t help me yet. Cannot identify all the fans. Maybe I am not so familiar yet. Note: I did use thermal Grizzly Liquid Metal for the delided CPU and MX6 thermal Paste on top, AAIRHUT thermal pads on the rest. I also made a 2nd watercooler because the bottom cover wasn’t closing properly, I didn’t foresee it was too long. XD the rear RBG light couldn’t fit in. I did upgrade the BIOS AND EC from XMG, was more stable, no crashes. Thank you for all the precious information. (removed single pipe cooler) (Pressing softly no to bed the copper underneath, preheating the heatsink) (I always used a thermometer to control the heat, I worried about the pipes bursting, but they are pretty good at cooling, even at 400c the heatsink was about 90c, the solder never melted properly even with heat gun and solder iron. (3 solder device at once). (Water test and pressure) (Delided CPU, first watercooler setup) (Freezemod pump with speed regulator, ThermalTake T1000 water cooler) (2nd watercooler - the bottom cover close properly now) (Benchmark and temps: to the left single water pipe cooler, to the right double pipe.) (First watercooler finishing) [Please know that everything was done in a controlled environment to avoid self harm. ]