CowDontMeow

So I got annoyed that the laptop would only run 2666mhz on my ram so I tried enabling XMP 1, now it won’t boot. it’ll start, keyboard RGB flashes and fans all spin up, when they quieten down and it would normally boot the screen stays black and the keyboard stays steady blue. I’ve tried FN+D, I’ve removed the CMOS battery and still no change. Is there a way to reset the bios some other way? I assume using different ram would force it to change the settings to “auto” but I don’t have any other devices with DDR4 SODIMM. Should’ve just played some Stardew Valley and told my brain to be quiet. Edit* Turns out ran was installed in slots #2 & #4, didn’t even think about it when I re-pasted it previously. Took the ram out, got side tracked cleaning all the filth out (trust me to clean when I should be diagnosing / fixing), re-installed a single stick into slot #1, it boot looped a few times before popping up with a “memory change detected” and booted! Both sticks now in their proper places and to top it off they now run at their advertised speeds of 2933 19-19-19-47 on auto without any input by me. Looks like PCSpecialists installed these in the wrong place when building it out for the original owners. I’ve missed playing with a “PC” but I’m already starting to see why I went to a console, I just can’t leave things alone and although I learn a LOT I end up causing myself issues along the way lol. Now the panic is over, anyone in the UK have a source for BOE09D9 1440p screens? All the vendors I’ve tried only say they’ll send whatever “comparable” screens they have available, seeing as this is all new to me I’m not sure whether the extra hassle is worth having G-Sync functional, can anyone provide some input?

I’ve tried the old “by eye” calibration which I know isn’t going to be perfect, no matter what I do the screen either ends up looking perfect until I export the files to another device and realise it was calibrated to be slightly warm with oversaturated greens (meaning the output looks more beige in areas it should be yellow/green) OR for a closer matching output the screen looks super cool and with a blue/grey tinge, my eyes adjust to this to when I export although it’s closer to true it takes a good 5-10mins for my eyes to adjust back to normal so it doesn’t look whack. It’s a shame because in games it looks stunning, it must be because I do macro photography so a lot of the subject is in super high detail with almost black backgrounds so the colours are very pronounce, with landscape I imagine the huge variety of colours mixing negates this. I’m not throwing the towel in though, I’ve found someone within a 30min drive that *might* be willing to use their Spyder, trying to bribe them with the promise of beers and/or compensation.

For those that have upgraded or replaced screens (uk based) where were you getting them? I’ve found a tonne of sellers (like this one) and apart from double checking it’s BOE09D9 I’m not sure I trust that price for a “as new” screen. Has anyone else tried this super cheap replacements? The 1080p screen although being “72% NTSC” (100% adobe RGB) is just terrible for editing. I have to export to cloud and double check on my phone and old laptop for 4/5 revisions, crazy that a 1st gen i3 laptop has a more accurate display. Looks good whilst gaming though.

Re-pasted over the weekend with the Thermal Grizzly version of PTM (supposedly the same just re-packaged in smaller/more manageable sizes), kept the original thermal pads because they were all still soft and tacky, I did move a couple because it looked like from factory they were only making half contact. Temps before (with undervolting and reduced clocks) and max fans. 11900f @ 4.2ghz, 90mv undervolt - Idle 60c+ / gaming 95-97c and throttling RTX3080 16gb - Idle 55c+ / gaming 80-85c and throttling. Temps after (with undervolting still) but fans on auto, usually at 10-15% idling and 30-40% gaming. 11900f @ 4.5ghz, 75mv undervolt - Idle 30-40c depending on usage prior / gaming 80c roughly. RTX3080 16gb +180mhz core +1200mhz memory (and undervolted) - Idle: same as CPU / gaming 50-58c That’s a HUGE reduction, I can use Helicon focus to stack 60+ photos without the fans kicking in despite 90% CPU load and 80% GPU load, same with Lightroom consuming 20gb ram and all 16gb VRAM. Still can’t get the BIOS to accept my memory settings no matter how I try, considering my photo editing software / games seem to run my GPU at 80-99% even with a +180mhz on the core and +1200mhz One thing I’ll say though is despite my 1080p screen being 72% NTSC (99% adobe RGB) the colours look completely different compared to my phone when editing is done and I’m uploading to Instagram, my work laptop looks almost identical to my phone. How much calibration is possible with these? Is it worth jumping to the 1440p screen if I can even find one? Based on the CPU, Ram, 4tb NVME and RTX3080 MXM I could potentially split the parts and make almost enough money to upgrade to a 5070ti laptop but tbh I’d rather keep this if I can get the colour space right, it’s a bulky beast but it works and it was cheap, plus it’s fun to tinker with.

Hi, tried running this tool on my x170km-g (PCSPECIALIST build) but its stuck at “processed memory blocks 3408 from 4095” Not sure whether it’s safe to just close it out or not. For reference 11900f, RTX3080 16gb, 32gb Corsair 2933mhz, 4tb Corsair NVME. edit* I must have accidentally clicked enter and paused it, pressed enter to see if it would move down a line or anything and it started up again, everything now unlocked! Let’s see if I can undervolt and stop this thing cooking edit 2* couldn’t get VBS to disable no matter what I did. Ran the DG_Readiness_Tool_v3.6.ps1 and now I have no screen, can’t access bios (I don’t think). Any ideas? 🙃 edit 3* (lol) Powered off, removed cables and batteries, booted straight back up. XMP doesn’t detect my ram profile so I’ve manually set it to 2933 with correct timings, overclocking is fully unlocked so now running a -75mv undervolt at 4.4ghz max turbo and it’s gone from 97c during a ThrottleStop 120m benchmark to 88c during the 480m benchmark and dropped from 91s for 480m to 62s. Still gets toasty running games (95c CPU / 80c GPU) and after closing games won’t idle lower than 50c each, on startup I can browse / watch YouTube for hours without it going above 40c so going to tackle a re paste today using PTM and thermal putty because every reference pic I’ve found regarding pads shows different thicknesses. Oh also setting Speedshift to 128 with the multiplier cap and undervolt I can get 2hours of YouTube/Netflix on battery no problem, performance mode, max brightness etc. Not bad.