Official Clevo X170KM-G Thread

[cedr1k]

10 hours ago, strijrator said:

Hi @cedr1k

 

Since you have a bios from XMG are you installing your drivers from them rather than HIDevolution?

 

Maybe there are issues with Windows or drivers that would require a reinstall?

 

Also I am guessing that when you initially ran timespy, you had 32gb in dual channel. Your new lower score is with the 16gb single stick right?

 

Is this behavior only on Apex Legends or other games too?

To be honest those results were also very bad even with 32GB of RAM, but maybe it might effect results a little bit. I checked whether reducing the CPU clock speed affects performance in other games in the same way. In Arc Raiders, FPS actually drop when the clock speed is reduced, so it seems the problem is strictly with the game engine used in Apex Legends. The AI told me that Apex Legends is very sensitive to jitter and frametimes. This causes noticeable FPS drops at higher CPU clock speeds.I might try downgrading my drivers and BIOS to an older version in the future, but this is a very strange problem that probably only occurs in laptops.

 

Attached is a screenshot from Arc Raiders at 1.9Ghz and 4.4Ghz. You can see the correct performance increase after increasing the CPU clocks, unlike Apex Legends.

[cedr1k]

5 hours ago, kela-slk said:

check in Bios settings Overclocking features enable or disable

Yes it was enabled

[JuliusCesare]

3 hours ago, Teo said:

@JuliusCesare I see , so couldn’t be that your memory are getting bad over time? Or the ram pins are dirty? Have you tried in your known good slot the others memories?

I hope is not the motherboard getting bad, have you seen any sign of corrosion or mold or white build spots (from water or moisture) near the ram slots? Or anywhere in the motherboard?

 

Have you tried to do a hard reset or load your BIOS configuration to default on your laptop and see if that helps?

@Teo I have not seen any signs of corrosion on the board. I have never had any fluid spills issues with the system. Each of the 4 RAM sticks work fine in slot 3, but the system never completes POST when any or more of the other slots has a stick of RAM in it. 

 

Yes, I have done a BIOS reset multiple times. I also load defaults every time after a BIOS flash. I have read somewhere up this thread that Fn+D or Alt+D at boot might reset NVRAM. I did not observe anything resembling a reset of NVRAM after trying the key combination at boot.

 

While I do the BIOS resets, it is possible that there is an operation I'm unaware of involving NVRAM. I do not know much about NVRAM except that if I disconnect all power (power cord, regular battery, and the internal CMOS battery) and let the system sit for at least 30 minutes to discharge capacitors, then NVRAM should be cleared. 

 

It is possible I could be misinformed about resetting NVRAM and I'm open to other ideas.

 

 

[strijrator]

5 hours ago, cedr1k said:

To be honest those results were also very bad even with 32GB of RAM, but maybe it might effect results a little bit. I checked whether reducing the CPU clock speed affects performance in other games in the same way. In Arc Raiders, FPS actually drop when the clock speed is reduced, so it seems the problem is strictly with the game engine used in Apex Legends. The AI told me that Apex Legends is very sensitive to jitter and frametimes. This causes noticeable FPS drops at higher CPU clock speeds.I might try downgrading my drivers and BIOS to an older version in the future, but this is a very strange problem that probably only occurs in laptops.

 

Attached is a screenshot from Arc Raiders at 1.9Ghz and 4.4Ghz. You can see the correct performance increase after increasing the CPU clocks, unlike Apex Legends.

Hey

 

Well it’s a good thing this issue is not happening in other games. Maybe it’s just a problem with Apex. Are you using the latest nvidia graphics driver?

 

 It may be worth downgrading bios or drivers so try it if the issue persists.

[kela-slk]

6 hours ago, cedr1k said:

Yes it was enabled

Try disable and test again. Performance mode in ccc or entertainment. Bios setup default.

[Teo]

16 hours ago, JuliusCesare said:

@Teo I have not seen any signs of corrosion on the board. I have never had any fluid spills issues with the system. Each of the 4 RAM sticks work fine in slot 3, but the system never completes POST when any or more of the other slots has a stick of RAM in it. 

 

Yes, I have done a BIOS reset multiple times. I also load defaults every time after a BIOS flash. I have read somewhere up this thread that Fn+D or Alt+D at boot might reset NVRAM. I did not observe anything resembling a reset of NVRAM after trying the key combination at boot.

 

While I do the BIOS resets, it is possible that there is an operation I'm unaware of involving NVRAM. I do not know much about NVRAM except that if I disconnect all power (power cord, regular battery, and the internal CMOS battery) and let the system sit for at least 30 minutes to discharge capacitors, then NVRAM should be cleared. 

 

It is possible I could be misinformed about resetting NVRAM and I'm open to other ideas.

 

 

Hi @JuliusCesare

I see you have tested all memories.

 

That behavior is really stranger, does not pass the POST🤔, I heard that whenever you make any hardware changes you should also hard reset the BIOS (Nvram). Try one memory at the time and the reset NVRAM or BIOS and see if works. I think there is also a sequence when installing memories, should be 1 & 3 (2x memories) and 2&4 (if all memories are installed) I guess that’s the order. 

 

Hard reset or NVRAM Reset - Yes that’s basically it, taking out all the battery, RTC battery and ac adapter for few seconds or minutes but it is better if you press the power button while all the battery and AC Power adapter is unplugged it will ensure that all that energy it was drain out, that will reset for sure the nvram. I don’t know any other way.

 

I hope it helps. 

[strijrator]

Hey @Teo

 

Are you using the control center to control your laptop rgb?

 

I do not have the control center installed so I cannot control my rgb through the rgb app that comes with the control center.

 

I have tried using openrgb, but it was only able to control a few lights on the back of the laptop. I’m not totally sure how to set up openrgb, but I don’t think it will work anyway.

 

Have you tried openrgb or other software to control the laptop rgb?

 

Thanks in advance for your reply

[Teo]

Hi @strijrator

 

Man I wish I knew another software to control the RGB on the laptop, ”control center” does not work well so I tried many other Clevo vendors software and yeah, the Overclock settings and Fans control are mess up, rgbopen does not work well for me so I kind of gave up, left my laptop without it. 
 

I am thinking to search again, see some other forums if anyone has manage to get a fix.

 

I don’t know if is because this is Origin laptop

mixed with XMG bios then the software cannot find the right device ID. Something does not match or their software is terrible? 
 

If I find anything I will post. 

[strijrator]

Hi @Teo

 

Thanks for the info

 

• the Overclock settings and Fans control are mess up

Were you able to control the laptop’s fans with this fan control software?: https://github.com/djsubtronic/ClevoFanControl

 

 

Also, I have found the app in the microsoft store that comes with the control center to control the laptop’s rgb, but I don’t know if it works without the control center: https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9nhg85rqczn0?hl=en-US&gl=US

[cedr1k]

On 1/9/2026 at 8:38 PM, kela-slk said:

Try disable and test again. Performance mode in ccc or entertainment. Bios setup default.

I did it but nothing has changed. It is really weird because even if I change resulution of the game for the lower one from full HD fps stays the same. It looks like the system can't go further with fps no matter what. I thought maybe I could change CPU for example i9-11900k. Now I have i9-10900k but in cinebench R20 it gets normal results around 5899 points on 4,6Ghz. 

Maybe i should compare results with someone else with the same laptop in specific game. Maybe this problem can be seen only in games.

Maybe the power zone is not working properly, or maybe the system is simply old and cannot handle the same titles.

[Teo]

Hi @strijrator

Were you able to control the laptop’s fans with this fan control software?: https://github.com/djsubtronic/ClevoFanControl

 

Yes I have use it, it works relatively fine. Had to apply and test it a couple of time to see it was working at the set curves.

Also, I have found the app in the microsoft store that comes with the control center to control the laptop’s rgb, but I don’t know if it works without the control.

 

I didnt know AppStore had a Control Center for RGB. Then I should try and test it.

 

Thank you for the Information. 
 

[Teo]

Polished the heatsink and applied PTM7950.

Some good results.

 

I got about -10C for doing that.

i am not good at Overclocking, this is how far I could go.

 

PTM7950

 

Temps are hovering around 70c to 80c with OC (before it used to be around 90c~95c with OC) very stable, not crashing. 

 

Cinebench: 15,476pts, clocks are stuck at 4.8ghz. Draws about 196w.

 

If “Ring Bin Down and V-Max Stress” is unchecked draws about 260w but clocks fall down and many limits warning appears. 
 

 

I think I could score higher, still working on it. 

[Teo]

Finally I did manage a higher clock, 5.0GHZ clock ratio in all core but it wasn’t steady, was gradually dropping speed, going down to 4.9ghz.
 

Temps max were around 94c

drawing 230w~250w,

PL1 & PL2 Max. 
V offset: -80mv

 

Cinebench score: 15,783pts

 

I did try as well at 4.9GHZ clocks ratio, that was handling well and steady. 

V offset: -80mv
Max pl1 pl2

Temps 80~90c 

Power consumption: about 230w

Cinebench Score: 15,698pts

 

Tweaked a bit more with voltage 

 

V offset: -83mv

clock ratio: 5.0GHz

Last score: 15,851

Max pl1 pl2

Max power consumption: 250w (relatively)

 

 

 

No tweaking this laptop anymore, I think this is the max it can perform, this DIY water-cooler needs further improvement. 
 

I think is good as an experience. 

[Sephiran]

Hello! I’m replacing my keyboard and I found a listing on eBay. The seller has asked me to confirm which connection interfaces are present on the keyboard, and I don’t presently have the disassembly tools to check myself.

 

I take it that it’s one of these? I’ve seen the same question asked recently on Reddit, but I wanted to double-check just to be absolutely sure.

[Teo]

3 hours ago, Sephiran said:

Hello! I’m replacing my keyboard and I found a listing on eBay. The seller has asked me to confirm which connection interfaces are present on the keyboard, and I don’t presently have the disassembly tools to check myself.

 

I take it that it’s one of these? I’ve seen the same question asked recently on Reddit, but I wanted to double-check just to be absolutely sure.

Hi @Sephiran

 

what’s your laptop model?

if is the x170km-g I believe all have the 4zone RBG keyboard, but I can be wrong. 
 

About the other one I have never seen it. For I can see on any seller they have mentioned that also works for both laptops X-170km-g and x-170SM, so maybe the difference will be on the vendor side. Mine is Origin model and it has the 4zone RGB keyboard that comes with 3 wide ribbon flex cables, the #2 RGB back light (1 slim and the other wide ribbon) it would not work on mine. 

 

Is better if you can contact the store you got it and check or ask what’s the vendors name. There is so many. 

[Sephiran]

16 hours ago, Teo said:

Hi @Sephiran

 

what’s your laptop model?

if is the x170km-g I believe all have the 4zone RBG keyboard, but I can be wrong. 
 

About the other one I have never seen it. For I can see on any seller they have mentioned that also works for both laptops X-170km-g and x-170SM, so maybe the difference will be on the vendor side. Mine is Origin model and it has the 4zone RGB keyboard that comes with 3 wide ribbon flex cables, the #2 RGB back light (1 slim and the other wide ribbon) it would not work on mine. 

 

Is better if you can contact the store you got it and check or ask what’s the vendors name. There is so many. 

It is indeed the X170KM-G, subvendored by Origin. So it’s the 4Zone, that is, #1 above?

Also, even though each key on the keyboard can set to an RGB color, this is still considered 4Zone?

[Teo]

3 hours ago, Sephiran said:

It is indeed the X170KM-G, subvendored by Origin. So it’s the 4Zone, that is, #1 above?

Also, even though each key on the keyboard can set to an RGB color, this is still considered 4Zone?

Must be the #1. I hope there is not a different version of it for Origin X-170KM-G
 

I haven’t gotten that far analyzing it, I really can’t tell. I haven’t bought any replacement or spares for my laptop. I only have dissembled a couple of time. 
 

It is weird that none of the seller can’t be more specific which model to use “A” or “B” keyboard. 
 

I cannot guarantee anything, the best way it will be to open the laptop and confirm by yourself, it can be a hit miss. The bottom has 8 screws and the keyboard 2 from within. 
It has indicator where which one is the keyboard screw. 
 

 

It has some pressure clips just try to push the keyboard out from inside of casing under fan base you can see the keyboard back or from the top try to pull it out. Just be careful dont put too much strength to it, and be careful with ribbon cable, they are kind of short. 
 

All the best. 

[Sephiran]

Thank you for your help. I guess I’m still a bit surprised that a keyboard where each key can be assigned an RGB value is still considered a 4Zone keyboard? Do I understand that right?

 

It also sounds like we have the same model, the Origin EON17-X, correct?

[Teo]

17 hours ago, Sephiran said:

Thank you for your help. I guess I’m still a bit surprised that a keyboard where each key can be assigned an RGB value is still considered a 4Zone keyboard? Do I understand that right?

 

It also sounds like we have the same model, the Origin EON17-X, correct?

I think I know what you mean, sorry for the question but how do they call the other keyboards that the RGB light can be individually assigned? 
 

Yes we do have the same Laptop model. 👍🏻

I hope can you get a good keyboard from the store.  

[CowDontMeow]

On 9/28/2022 at 12:48 AM, ViktorV said:

https://disk.yandex.ru/d/fYx0wGpaVDGmIg         I'm posting the bios unlocker x170km-g, I think it's possible now, since the model has been discontinued))).

Hi, tried running this tool on my x170km-g (PCSPECIALIST build) but its stuck at “processed memory blocks 3408 from 4095”

 

Not sure whether it’s safe to just close it out or not. 

For reference 11900f, RTX3080 16gb, 32gb Corsair 2933mhz, 4tb Corsair NVME. 

 

edit*

I must have accidentally clicked enter and paused it, pressed enter to see if it would move down a line or anything and it started up again, everything now unlocked! Let’s see if I can undervolt and stop this thing cooking

 

edit 2*
couldn’t get VBS to disable no matter what I did. 
Ran the DG_Readiness_Tool_v3.6.ps1 and now I have no screen, can’t access bios (I don’t think). 
 

Any ideas? 🙃
 

edit 3* (lol)

Powered off, removed cables and batteries, booted straight back up. XMP doesn’t detect my ram profile so I’ve manually set it to 2933 with correct timings, overclocking is fully unlocked so now running a -75mv undervolt at 4.4ghz max turbo and it’s gone from 97c during a ThrottleStop 120m benchmark to 88c during the 480m benchmark and dropped from 91s for 480m to 62s. 
 

Still gets toasty running games (95c CPU / 80c GPU) and after closing games won’t idle lower than 50c each, on startup I can browse / watch YouTube for hours without it going above 40c so going to tackle a re paste today using PTM and thermal putty because every reference pic I’ve found regarding pads shows different thicknesses. 
 

Oh also setting Speedshift to 128 with the multiplier cap and undervolt I can get 2hours of YouTube/Netflix on battery no problem, performance mode, max brightness etc. Not bad. 
 

 

[CowDontMeow]

Re-pasted over the weekend with the Thermal Grizzly version of PTM (supposedly the same just re-packaged in smaller/more manageable sizes), kept the original thermal pads because they were all still soft and tacky, I did move a couple because it looked like from factory they were only making half contact. 
 

Temps before (with undervolting and reduced clocks) and max fans. 

11900f @ 4.2ghz, 90mv undervolt - Idle 60c+ / gaming 95-97c and throttling

RTX3080 16gb - Idle 55c+ / gaming 80-85c and throttling. 
 

Temps after (with undervolting still) but fans on auto, usually at 10-15% idling and 30-40% gaming. 

11900f @ 4.5ghz, 75mv undervolt - Idle 30-40c depending on usage prior / gaming 80c roughly. 
RTX3080 16gb +180mhz core +1200mhz memory (and undervolted) - Idle: same as CPU / gaming 50-58c

 

That’s a HUGE reduction, I can use Helicon focus to stack 60+ photos without the fans kicking in despite 90% CPU load and 80% GPU load, same with Lightroom consuming 20gb ram and all 16gb VRAM. 
 

Still can’t get the BIOS to accept my memory settings no matter how I try, considering my photo editing software / games seem to run my GPU at 80-99% even with a +180mhz on the core and +1200mhz

 

One thing I’ll say though is despite my 1080p screen being 72% NTSC (99% adobe RGB) the colours look completely different compared to my phone when editing is done and I’m uploading to Instagram, my work laptop looks almost identical to my phone. 
 

How much calibration is possible with these? Is it worth jumping to the 1440p screen if I can even find one? 
 

Based on the CPU, Ram, 4tb NVME and RTX3080 MXM I could potentially split the parts and make almost enough money to upgrade to a 5070ti laptop but tbh I’d rather keep this if I can get the colour space right, it’s a bulky beast but it works and it was cheap, plus it’s fun to tinker with.