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Repasting HP Omen 15 DH0005LA - 2019


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I will skip the part about removing the bottom cover, but still I suggest using a guitar pick to dislodge the little clamps around the chassis.

1) Disconnect the battery cable and main power cable (under main power there's a fan screw top right position in green)

2) Disconnect the WiFi antennas so you can reach the fan screw underneath

3) Disconnect both fans, pull a little from each side of the connection, be gentle!!!

4) Unscrew the 4 fan screws (in green circles)

5) Unscrew the 6 heatsink screws (in purple circles), those are numbered for the reverse procedure, keep that in mind (some may say that it doesn't matter)

6) Start pulling upwards and GENTLY towards you (lower than 45 degrees, start from a low angle and work from there) from the GPU part of the heatsink. at the same time hold with your other hand from the right fan. the whole unit including fans will come out together. I've seen other heatsinks that as soon as you pull it the fans fall down like a sack of potatoes, not in this case.

7) remove factory/old paste as usual, isopropyl alcohol, cotton swabs, paper towel, microfiber cloth.

😎 Apply the new thermal paste. The GPU die is big as heck, this model has an RTX 2070, so I suggest using the X pattern with dots in each quadrant. The CPU, in this case I7-9750h, compared to the GPU is small so I suggest a simple line from side to side of the die.

9) Take this chance to blow any dust bunnies where the fans rest: The chassis in this model has a sort of deposit at the exhausts where the fans spit the crap that it collects.

10) to put back the heatsink start by placing the upper part (lower inclination than 45 degrees) of it where it sits at the exhausts and again GENTLY let it descend in its proper position, if you initially inserted the heatsink properly (the angle I mean), it will feel that it sits without resistance.

11) Screw back the 6 (purple circles) heatsink screws in the order that reads on the engraving, a few turns each screw in order. do not overtighten, it has to be firm but not to the point where you are exerting yourself, this is not an engine nor a carpentry project.

12) feel free to put back everything together, fan screws first, then cables, battery last, as always - you don't want to fry your mobo.



Sadly I don't have pictures with the naked mobo because I was more concerned of doing this right on first try, but I hope this helps as reference. yes it worked first try, it's been 2 years since I repasted with Thermalright TFX and no problems so far.

Also don't forget to undervolt your CPU (where is Unclewebb 😞 😞 😞 ???? )

Suggested tools: latex gloves, cotton swabs, paper towel, tweezers with ceramic tips, guitar picks, in general use SOFT tools, wood, plastic, etc, not metallic ones. oh and if you can ground yourself with those wrist thingies.




Ps: English is not my native language, so excuse any grammar mistakes or weird expressions.

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4 hours ago, ryan said:

@duskw4lkerhave you tried those pads that are solid when cool and liquid when hot? I heard they are epic, best temps you can get


well yeah, liquid metal, be them in liquid form or pad, performs better (I've seen something like -10°C or even -20°C depending on who's showcasing the product) compared to traditional TIMs based on silicone, but I don't know @ryan, I'm the kind of guy that goes for the safe approach, and knowing that liquid metal is conductive is a no-no for me, even taking precautionary measures like foam barriers, electrical tape and whatnot, it still wouldn't let me sleep easy knowing that for any strange or unfortunate circumstance the liquid may spill and fry my laptop.


On the other hand I hope that in the future the graphite based pads get better, like the 'Carbonaut' or the 'IC graphite pad', for now they perform... hmm acceptable? but not better than a top of the line silicone TIM. Those graphite pads are conductive, yes, but at least they don't melt and potentially spill, and the best part is that you don't need to change them after 'X' amount of time, supposedly they don't degrade, and that translates into not having to go through the hassle of disassembling your laptop twice a year or once a year. 

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3 minutes ago, ryan said:


Be careful about TIMs with diamond, they tend to scratch the heatsink and the die, there's plenty info about that around the interwebz. Regarding Kryonaut, I don't have concrete information about its reliability, only comments about suffering of the dreaded 'pump-out' effect on laptops, due to turning way too liquid under the temps that lappys operate (over 80°C), which are not even close to desktops whose users cry at 60°C. The performance of Kryonaut is great afaik, top of the line, but for me TFX Thermalright works great. Have to repaste this machine though, it started to show degradation after 2 years.

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