tps3443

The worst thing that would suck about a melted connector is the work and down time..Re-mount air cooler, mail in, then wait forever. 🫠

I never had any issues with melted 12Vhpwr, (Not that I know of) I’m curious if anyone on here melted a connector yet. Sometimes negativity is very good publicity. Der8auer and Gamernexus touched on this before in one of their videos about this connector. We’re definitely reaching in to a new realm of GPU power which is pretty damn extreme to be honest. I know that 8 pin PCIe connectors have melted in the past as well. But unfortunately we now have this 12vhpwr so fingers crossed 🤞 let’s hope 800w+ holds up @Mr. Fox You got to see this video @Mr. Fox (It’s a good laugh)😆

100c on the connector? I wouldn’t trust that. I feel like if a cable is at 100c it could runaway on you quickly. That’s already 212F. But I do remember reading that 100c was okay. I don’t think it’s that chintzy. Pulling 880+ watts on a single wire it’s good. 🤩 We can’t do that on an 8pin unless we like hard power shutdowns. I do think these cables are sensitive though. I think the internet has also just made us really paranoid. So it’s something me and others check now 😕. GPU temp check, memory temp check, wire temp check 🥴

No burning yet. 880w cook out on 20 loops on my FE. Cable reached a whopping 41c at the hottest point. This is a very unrealistic scenario. I haven’t seen any games use this much power as Steel Nomad. Typically gaming is 400-775 watts. Full tilt 3.3Ghz. It’s okay at 880 watts, then gaming is probably fine. Might be okay with the 12v-2x6. 🥳

I do not think it's as fast as other AIB cards. FE has a slight handicap with bios and clock speed. No, I am not really putting that much effort into it I suppose. I do not think I am the right person to push an FE to that level. 🙂

Excellent scores. My goal was only 17K at the end of the day. I wish I had a faster more modern platform with Rebar, and PCIe Gen4/5, but I don’t.. My score is what it is. And even with the cost of the water-block. It’s $1,000 dollars cheaper. So I can absolutely live with a -2% slower graphics card.

Astral on watercooling with EVC2? No way I have a chance here. He’s at least +4% right now with his chiller and extra voltage control. 😎 My bath water is gonna kill me.

Sure, I’ll race you with same water temp. 32c vs 32c. 😁I don’t have my chiller hooked up, I’d have to dismantle my current hardline loop/pumping setup to do so. https://www.3dmark.com/sn/7094707

🤣. You are so right. And this is why. YESSSS SIRRREEEEE 🤣 Cannot resist that FE ASS lol. BTW, I loved RC CARS. My last one was an Xmaxx 8S in 2020, my first one was a Stampede in 1998. 😃 It’s a hobby I’ll get in to every so often for a little bit lol. Pretty fun though. My kids have a few Traxxas Stampedes.

I would buy a 5090FE, then buy a EKWB waterblock. $2,350. Then I’d shunt mod the card. The shunt cost 💲0.60. Then I would mount the block using Liquid Metal and the original air seal on the FE card for LM longevity. And you’ve got a tiny dinky beast of a GPU. 5090FE only needs 1 shunt soldered VS 2 shunts soldered on other 5090’s. Zero disadvantage since it’s the cheapest solution. Price to performance is also very good. Not to mention most 2K AIB 5090’s are absolute garbage PCB designs in comparison to a 5090FE PCB. The components used, and the chintzy thin PCB’s on some of these AIB’s is questionable. The higher end 5090 AIB’s are nice. But some of these 2K 5090 AIB’s? Total chintzy. Not to mention bin quality. This varies card to card. But, I can run 3322Mhz in games with bath water. I know an Astral on chilled water than cannot even run 3,240Mhz, another 5090 IChill can run 3140Mhz in games with same voltage as me using ambient water. If you could hold a FE PCB in one hand, and another AIB PCB in another hand, you’d be amazed. The thickness and build quality is very good would make you think AIB PCB is Dollar General toy. 😊 Once you are ready to sell, remove shunt, re-assemble with factory FE cooler. Then sell for top dollar since FE’s always pull good re-sale at end of life. @electrosoft There are two XOC bios right now leaked, due to device mismatch and no modded Nvflash available this bios cannot be flashed to just any 5090’s as far as I know, and you’d have to tear apart the GPU anyways just to flash its bios with a hardware flasher. May as well solder a shunt on and be done faster. But, even if someone could maybe @Talon can flash his Asus TUF since his has the connector. I my self still wouldn’t change anything. Waterblock performance and core boosting performance on warm ambient water more than makes up for this for me. I’m in the shunt mod group. It’s really such an easy mod. If I can do it, anyone can. I have zero soldering skills. I’m not very good at it lol. The end result is AWESOME for any 5090.

The EKWB 5090FE block is working wonders. So overall build quality is nothing to really write home about. It’s just a typical waterblock. But the performance is a different story. Water deltas or the GPU temp over water temp so far and what I’m seeing is really really great. 430-450 watts=7 or 8c delta 600+ watts=10.5c delta. 800+ watts=13-15c delta It has to be because of the Liquid Metal. I don’t really know. I used a heat gun and melted my thermal pads while on the block and then pressed the 5090’s PCB on to the block, this provided some good contact as well. Even drawing just under 900 watts of power, and it’ll hold a 15c delta over water. So with 34c water temp my 5090 pulling almost 900 watts and my GPU is running 48-49c (This is nuts). If I had 15c water it would be running 32-34c@800+ watts. This thing puts a block like the 3090KP HC block to shame. But then again, I feel like an idiot for never putting Liquid Metal on that GPU, I always used paste. I feel like it’s magical though. So it’s either the best waterblock I have ever tested, or Liquid Metal is magical lol. Either way, it’s performing really really really good. I’m not using a chiller anymore so I get to experience the feeling of warm water temps just like everyone else does. 😁 and with a shunted 5090FE now in the loop and a Xeon w3175X, and my Dominus VRM’s water cooled as well, I get exactly that (Some bath water) I will say though, I’m not running push pull fans which would help wonders for my setup. Fans are expensive. And it’s a lot cheaper to buy (8) P28’s than (16) P28’s. But now I’m feeling it and I think it’s time to add push/pull. This seems extremely cheap and dirty for AMD to do to save a few pennies. I’d want an original one. Luckily it’s easy to spot the difference in a used one, maybe not so easy on a new one though.

It’s pretty wild that Shunt modded water cooled 5090FE is doubling a RTX5080FE which is absolutely crazy. My RTX 4090 had nothing meaningful left in it, so nice to see the 5090’s definitely loves a shunt mod and watercooling.

My 2x8 to 12v-2x6 for my Lian Li Edge Gold 1200 in my PSU box in my closet. Maybe I should use it instead of the 12v-2x6 to 12v-2x6. 🔥

#29 HOF 3Dmark with my Founders Edition. 😁 NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 video card benchmark result - Intel Xeon W-3175X Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG DOMINUS EXTREME

Look at this thing man. Crazy. The silicon is so FRESH. https://youtube.com/shorts/POE4RDU_iL8?si=O_XzKLDZYpuLzE0Y @electrosoft https://youtu.be/40wojZVVGBk?si=YKkf-HSzPXFAh3_H