Jump to content
NotebookTalk

ShifflyTheSHO

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    46

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ShifflyTheSHO

  1. ShifflyTheSHO
    sorry, its stock CL22 RAM but it’s running at CL18 from default learnings! Just like that $70 4x8GB RAM kit I was bragging about; so that was nothing special, just gussied up non-XMP ICs. I’m going see how far these timings can go now, brb.
  2. ShifflyTheSHO
    Never mind, I set it to auto in the multiplier and bumped the offsets by four (.070v, 70mv). CL22 is doing okay! Is it possible to tighten the timing s of non-XMP default RAM?
  3. ShifflyTheSHO
    i take back what I said. That kit was amazing and I WANT THEM BACK! (CL18, 3200mhz) Does anybody know how get my 4 sticks of RAM back to 3200mhz? —— I had this CMS 3200mhz CL16 4x8GB kit off of Amazon that I returned, but I was running CL18 with stability at some timings at 3200mhz!!, but forgot what I adjusted on my motherboard (Z170) or my processor (i9-9900kf) I’m trying to get back to 3200mhz so O can have some bandwidth again, and everybsetting I try drops me back to 2400mhz in the Windows environment. It was my first attempt at overclocking RAM and it was a grand slam! I got mad and returned them and I’m running a mixed kit of Micro CL22 and unknown cheap set that used to shut off my computer, but I split the kits up onto separate channels and I’ve been at a nice, stable 2400mhz. I DO NOT WANT TO RUN 4 STICKS!!! That is so much slower on startup and in everything else; why do people only run 2 of 4 kits when manufactures gave you four and they out perform anything else with two slots? Its like driving high revving sports car with donuts on the drive wheels. But anyways, do I need to adjust anything beyond the SA and IO voltage? I can no longer seem to go beyond 1100 mV (1.1 V) on either without my system being caught in a loop. How do I adjust the memory controller properly? I change the latency and set it to relearn, but should I try for 3033mHz? dsanke BIOS, and my keyboard is off currently from having to pull the CMOS so many damn times. (my processor can also undervolt to -0.150. Should I not?)
  4. ShifflyTheSHO
    Does anybody know how get my 4 sticks of RAM back to 3200mhz? —— I had this CMS 3200mhz CL16 4x8GB kit off of Amazon that I returned, but I was running CL18 with stability at some timings at 3200mhz!!, but forgot what I adjusted on my motherboard (Z170) or my processor (i9-9900kf) I’m trying to get back to 3200mhz so O can have some bandwidth again, and everybsetting I try drops me back to 2400mhz in the Windows environment. It was my first attempt at overclocking RAM and it was a grand slam! I got mad and returned them and I’m running a mixed kit of Micro CL22 and unknown cheap set that used to shut off my computer, but I split the kits up onto separate channels and I’ve been at a nice, stable 2400mhz. I DO NOT WANT TO RUN 4 STICKS!!! That is so much slower on startup and in everything else; why do people only run 2 of 4 kits when manufactures gave you four and they out perform anything else with two slots? Its like driving high revving sports car with donuts on the drive wheels. But anyways, do I need to adjust anything beyond the SA and IO voltage? I can no longer seem to go beyond 1100 mV (1.1 V) on either without my system being caught in a loop. How do I adjust the memory controller properly? I change the latency and set it to relearn, but should I try for 3033mHz? dsanke BIOS, and my keyboard is off currently from having to pull the CMOS so many damn times. (my processor can also undervolt to -0.150. Should I not?)
  5. ShifflyTheSHO
    I had this CMS 3200mhz CL16 4x8GB kit off of Amazon that I returned, but I was running CL18 with stability at some timings at 3200mhz!!, but forgot what I adjusted on my motherboard (Z170) or my processor (i9-9900kf) I’m trying to get back to 3200mhz so O can have some bandwidth again, and everybsetting I try drops me back to 2400mhz in the Windows environment. It was my first attempt at overclocking RAM and it was a grand slam! I got mad and returned them and I’m running a mixed kit of Micro CL22 and unknown cheap set that used to shut off my computer, but I split the kits up onto separate channels and I’ve been at a nice, stable 2400mhz. I DO NOT WANT TO RUN 4 STICKS!!! That is so much slower on startup and in everything else; why do people only run 2 of 4 kits when manufactures gave you four and they out perform anything else with two slots? Its like driving high revving sports car with donuts on the drive wheels. But anyways, do I need to adjust anything beyond the SA and IO voltage? I can no longer seem to go beyond 1100 mV (1.1 V) on either without my system being caught in a loop. How do I adjust the memory controller properly? I change the latency and set it to relearn, but should I try for 3033mHz? dsanke BIOS, and my keyboard is off currently from having to pull the CMOS so many damn times. (my processor can also undervolt to -0.150. Should I not?)
  6. ShifflyTheSHO
    I have P650RE #36 (Sager) and P650RP #1!! (Eluktronics) Now on the RP the two LED lights cut out and the computer won’t boot when I press the power button until I replug and the cycle repeats, so is there any remedy for this 1060 laptop? Or is the morherboard dead-dead? also, can a P650HS accept a BIOS flash if the BIOS is locked?
  7. ShifflyTheSHO
    So its almost like you took exactly what we said and ignored all of the key points where we talking about a specific, newer display… Like, I’m just going to order the Clevo/Samsung 30pin to 40 pin adaptor and hope that works since customer service didn’t hear either of our question and yes, the thing was plugged in and in the “on” position.
  8. ShifflyTheSHO
    I accidentally ordered an m17 R4 motherboard with a 2080MQ and 8950hk to replace my bad 17R4 motherboad that was a 1070 and 7700hk. The connections at the bottom of the board are moved to the left and some external ports are different, so would drilling the case and moving the ribbons work? everybody wants like $500 dollars for a board that will ultimately fail like the original, my pay double for less!?
  9. ShifflyTheSHO
    My new thread keeps getting deleted! Still trying to find what I need to get the 3K 120hz or 2.5k 240hz screen to work. is the P750dm3 a 30pin eDP? I want to know before I rip it apart… like, do I need to order one of those boards to merge the lanes or are the eDP cables fine with the right connectors/connections? do adaptors work? Is the 2880x1620 @ 120hz screen a 4lane or a two? IDK when my heatsink arrives but I’d like to only take apart my laptop once for the upgrades! thanks to anybody in the know!!
  10. ShifflyTheSHO
    Guys. After shopping my model number on websites in mandarin, I’m convinced that P750dm3-g isers have a 30pin eDP cable. Can anyone confirm? i want to do my Heatsink, GPU, Screen, Cable, Audio board, and display cable all in one go and leave this thing sealed for a while.
  11. ShifflyTheSHO
    Hey, nice name! i think the voltage only works on-demand, like, it’ll be slower until it’s necessary? I remember I did something to get my RAM overclocked on all 4 sticks to 3200mhz CL18, but now for the life of me I can’t get them past 2400mhz when 2666mhz is stock for my 9th Gen i9. Do you know which setting we’re supposed to up voltage too and how much? sorry to hijack.
  12. ShifflyTheSHO
    Real talk; why don’t people just keep an old stick of 4GB of 2400mHz or however-much slower speed of RAM to reset their memory settings/timings instead of resetting their BIOS every time you mess one thing up? Why have I never-ever seen that as suggested? its forever Scorched earth on the settings…
  13. ShifflyTheSHO
    I have a GTX 1070m, wire, and pads!
  14. ShifflyTheSHO
    I actually have an ANTA56WR07 for sale brand new in box!! do you want it? I’m going to test out the ATNA56AC01 with the flat bottom instead (3K, 120hz) since my Gigabyte decided to have the build quality of a Pascal era MSI.
  15. ShifflyTheSHO
    Before I go full send, will this Radiator work as a heatsink for my P750DM3? It looks like there’s more back portion and my laptop could be alright with a BBL.
  16. ShifflyTheSHO
    I foolishly ordered these because I want to fill all DIMM slots for my i9-9900KF. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09NLCG8NJ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image and is the P750DM3 radiator the exact same as the P770DM or P775DM3? I’m going to shoot my shot on a used one but just wanted a confirmation instead of reading conflicting pages. Heatsink tag say 6-31-P75D3-302 (GTX 1070m), and I keep finding that part number on 17” models with the 1070.
  17. ShifflyTheSHO
    Nevermind. i found a stick of 2666mhz to force it out of the 3200 funk it was in!
  18. ShifflyTheSHO
    As the title says, but ‘fn + D’ held during power on doesn’t clear my BIOS because not even the memory is operating, nor any combination of RAM is working. I removed the CMOS for an hour as well. Does anybody have any solution? Laptop is a P750dm3-G flashed from a 7th Gen to a 9900KF and should I run 4x8GB? Or will that combination prevent me from running at 3200 MT/s? I was trying to get them to read faster than 2400 MT/s with all for ranks, but accidentally changed the voltage so I thing it is timing too tightly. I tried one stick of 3200mhz CL22 and I didn’t even get fan noise specifically for that combination. Other configurations would at least spin, so should I keep throwing DDR4 at it until it works?
  19. ShifflyTheSHO
    I can’t undervolt my 9900KF any further than -135mV in the BIOS (-138mV overall) or Throttlestop, but do you know how to adjust the Amperage to the VRM? I’m stuck at 123, or is that the limit for my P750DM3 motherboard? Also I’m actively reading this thread and taking notes since I might order this heatsink…. It cost as much as my entire laptop!
  20. ShifflyTheSHO
    i happen to have a P750dm3-G and an ATNA56AC01 (one piece flat bottom) sitting new in box. Am I too old of a laptop? Do I even have a 40pin connector? i’ll be back for answers and field questions too.
  21. ShifflyTheSHO
    My Heatsink Which heatsink should I get for the P750DM3 if I want the 3080 mxm card in place of my 1070 mxm? The heights of the heatsink parts are wildly different over the memory parts and what not… But Oh man!! I’m down the rabbit hole and its my first 17” Clevo/Sager!! (Still have a 16” Clevo with a 970m and sold a loaded Sager with a 1070 & 4k screen) But anyways I have a Xi PowerGo P750DM3 with a 7700k and 1070mxm now that I was going to fix and sell, but all I did was throw in an NVME and RAM from my trashed Gigabyte Aero 15 OLED with an i9-11980K and 3080 8GB (I kicked the power strip and now it dies on AC power and won’t charge!) and it ran perfectly! But I always loved the build quality of this make, and of I could upgrade to a 9700K or 9900K, I could care more about using a 45W processor and switch my to that epic 3080 16GB i saw listed… a 330W Power brick should be able to cover everything, right? And can we upgrade to the 120hz 3k (2880x1620) AMOLED screen? I have one on the way and with a dead Gigabyte, do we have an eDP cable for OLED? Oh wait, the Aero is a 15.6” laptop with terrible cooling and quality. And my dusty peach Laptop plus 3 possible options:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use