MyPC8MyBrain

The way I do repasting is similar to what you described up until the cleaning portion. From there, I use electrical tape all around the CPU and dGPU silicon die as close as I can. I then create a flat layer of paste that covers the entire die evenly. After that, I remove the tape, which leaves a perfect flat two-millimeter layer of paste perfectly on the die. The next step is critical, which is mounting back. Do not just tighten it down based on number order. Place the entire mount gently in its place, using its screws as guides. I like to go over each screw and turn it counterclockwise until I hear it pop on top of its screw slot. I do that for all screws to ensure that they all start in the same position. Then, go by the numbers, tightening them back, but only do a 1/4 turn at a time, going around until they are all tight. This ensures that the plates are not deflecting the paste to one side or the other as it's being seated back.

Linus Torvalds (Father of Linux OS) and Linus Sebastian (LTT) are not the same person. Linus Benedict Torvalds - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linus_Torvalds Linus Gabriel Sebastian - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linus_Sebastian it is, if the system is acting up with sleep power options simply uninstall and reinstall display driver.

i wasn't referring to the pumps, the lines into the rad are sucking air back into the loop because the in/outlet are sucking from the top (if I'm not mistaken) instead of the bottom, air bubbles will trap and expand at the highest point which is where your inlet/outlets are, if you flip the rad upside-down so inlet and outlet are at the bottom, air will still tarp at the top but you will be circulating from the bottom without air,

this and few other pics you posted of your system are making my OCD acting up. you should raise your external res at least above the highest line point inside the case. you have huge air pockets you will not be able to get rid of, which interns reducing your cooling efficiency significantly. your external rad from the limited views i was able to catch is also setup incorrectly, your inlet outlets should be at the bottom not the top (it would be wise to flip it upside down).

i find it hard to accept that in one month span paste could lose so much of its efficiency. maybe the fan/paste is not the smoking gun after all. did you somehow enabled hybrid mode by mistake? when you said you dual boot and see the same behavior in another OS that pretty much narrows it down to either misplaced bios setting or some odd hardware issue that might been creeping in slowly.

maybe its my age but i do not hear my fans working at all when on cool, i can never tell unless im in a heavy load situation. or maybe its just the acoustic differences in our environments, I'm in fairly wide open area with no clutter around. i also think all the curve in the plans (accept maybe ultra) are outdated and not really suitable for the newer gen cpu's. indeed cool also caps dGpu, i run a script to switch modes.

interesting, i have to put it out there... the behavior you've been describing is similar to what i saw when i tried bios 1.9.1. to be fair you already reduced rpm's with first repaste, i run on cool for daily use which infers increased fan work. quite plan logic is to tolerate more surface heat in favor of reduced fan usage, balanced should be a mix of the two but not cooler than cool plan, some surface heat should be expected to some extent when not on cool. here's my surface temps.

technically speaking the heat pipe itself can leak leading to inefficiency in cooling, when that happens temps should be spiking much higher with system losing ability to control heat, which still seem to be in control atm. you have older system snapshots right? i would take a new one then revert to older one to see if this is a software or hardware issue before you start looking for a needle in a haystack. (if you have a thermal camera available you can also take a look at the pipes themselves to see if there's a leak)

good point! note that my dGpu temps due to the heat pipe design are always higher then my cpu around 10c delta.

still with OEM paste job, haven't touched it yet.

at least you hit the nail on the head as far as looking for the culprit. when the new one arrives their paste will be different, you will want to put loads on both dGpu and CPU to let their paste settle in as part of the process. i believe it is designed to be "stiff" phase changing material to help with chassis rigidity. Edit: i just checked I'm averaging around 900rpm on cool profile (with a good amount of 90+ none system processes running) .

once you lift the heat sync the pads should be replaced too. although they can be reused, fit and contact will not be the same as fresh pressed pads.

I didn't read every rant on this thread, I'm on the other side of the scale. from XP I skipped vista, and windows 7, to windows 8.1. from 8.1 I skipped 10 and adopted 11 as good enough to replace win8.1 simplicity with latest bells and whistle's. when I say good enough I mean make it runs, feel, look, and behave the same as my old 8.1. I never got on the bandwagon of the store based apps. I am old school full programs for me, either standalone or installer is what I will use, never apps! its also important which programs you install onto your system. another key for me is I never use retail version of windows I always use Enterprise version. Enterprise has less often and more scrutinized and stable updates then retail does, this gives me all the controls I need most home users don't have nor care for. stripping the system to its bare minimum is must, I then build from there. with normal applications and drivers never use apps. after full treatment for me Win11 is clean snappy and works perfect. i have both classic interface and new style whichever I chose to utilize (I prefer classic) i have the classic task bar behavior restored, i unlocked my task bar so you can notice i have the classic quick launch working as well as gadgets (none of the sticky tab nonsense ty). i even have old trusty Task manager in place of the new one (i don't like the new task manager) in conclusion Win11 is the most feature advanced and malleable than any MS OS provided the end user thus far.

that's nice for Wi-Fi devices and LAN file transfer, beyond that its not practical for any real world applications, no hosting provider out there will entertain 10% of that consistently, that's easy, stop messing around and don't install more junk in your system. deepfreeze your brain and your typing fingers instead 😄

i think its plausible if the system moves around that chassis flex has some part in this,

you still on bios 1.8.0?

when you originally noted 1k rpm was the ambient and physical location the same as it is now?

the 980 itself will fit, the heatsink wont fit, a heatsink is unnecessary in the 7670 or 7770, i don't think anyone here can speak of the 7x80 line compatibility yet.

i was grasshopper, its impossible to keep track of your moves.

how does that transpire? where do you get these stutters in games? watching video? if this issue transpires over external connected monitor it might be your cable not the driver. that's what your basing your conclusion on frustrated trolls on reddit? i believe you're wrong! afaik that driver is mainly dormant for use with older hdmi cable and monitors for sound transmission, its there in case you need it with some older monitors, nowadays most don't really need it its just installed by default. build a custom driver package using NVCleanstall without HD Sound driver and deploy clean driver install.

imho you are going about this the wrong way, you had the driver work properly before right? you should investigate what made it break and malfunction in the first place instead of disabling and or replacing with a dummy, its installed here with no stuttering issues, another option is to run a clean nvidia driver reinstall without HD Audio driver,

i see away mode an attempt to replace classic sleep with a modern sensor based alternative, these function still live side by side on recent win11 and active by default, i guess they will eventually expire one or hide it, for most users this behavior is just fine and prob wanted, i prefer manual approach then auto gears to all aspects of my personal computing, i never let the system sleep or hibernate and i don't ever shut it off its on 24/7/365, i do use it on battery it will last 5 hours watching youtube on my AC settings, that is more then enough for me between charging, i was never a mac user so two week battery life is not expected from a powerful mobile laptop,

away mode is enabled by default and activated by countdown even without sensor presence, the sensor will only give the signal to start countdown without it there is still an arbitrary away countdown, to invoke it is to unhide it first Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\238c9fa8-0aad-41ed-83f4-97be242c8f20\25dfa149-5dd1-4736-b5ab-e8a37b5b8187] "Attributes"=dword:00000002 and toggle it from advance power plan settings, personally i am not a fan of any delay when i move my mouse, my power setup is modern sleep off, hibernate off, and sleep is off, i only kept "turn off screen" after certain time left in its place, the system will go to S3 after the screen shuts off and that's plenty of standby saving (for me) without fully putting the system to hibernate or sleep,

what happens if you let it loop for a while? maybe your power supply is giving up, do you have another power supply that will fit? the screen is not flickering, try connecting external monitor maybe bios has some message with timeout you cannot see? if there is no OS the system will reboot, if the screen is defective that's how it looks,

@kaz26 disconnect the main system battery, after that disconnect cmos battery, next reconnect cmos battery, only then try powering the system with just power brick (keeping systems main battery disconnected),