MyPC8MyBrain

I didn't read every rant on this thread, I'm on the other side of the scale. from XP I skipped vista, and windows 7, to windows 8.1. from 8.1 I skipped 10 and adopted 11 as good enough to replace win8.1 simplicity with latest bells and whistle's. when I say good enough I mean make it runs, feel, look, and behave the same as my old 8.1. I never got on the bandwagon of the store based apps. I am old school full programs for me, either standalone or installer is what I will use, never apps! its also important which programs you install onto your system. another key for me is I never use retail version of windows I always use Enterprise version. Enterprise has less often and more scrutinized and stable updates then retail does, this gives me all the controls I need most home users don't have nor care for. stripping the system to its bare minimum is must, I then build from there. with normal applications and drivers never use apps. after full treatment for me Win11 is clean snappy and works perfect. i have both classic interface and new style whichever I chose to utilize (I prefer classic) i have the classic task bar behavior restored, i unlocked my task bar so you can notice i have the classic quick launch working as well as gadgets (none of the sticky tab nonsense ty). i even have old trusty Task manager in place of the new one (i don't like the new task manager) in conclusion Win11 is the most feature advanced and malleable than any MS OS provided the end user thus far.

that's nice for Wi-Fi devices and LAN file transfer, beyond that its not practical for any real world applications, no hosting provider out there will entertain 10% of that consistently, that's easy, stop messing around and don't install more junk in your system. deepfreeze your brain and your typing fingers instead 😄

i think its plausible if the system moves around that chassis flex has some part in this,

you still on bios 1.8.0?

when you originally noted 1k rpm was the ambient and physical location the same as it is now?

the 980 itself will fit, the heatsink wont fit, a heatsink is unnecessary in the 7670 or 7770, i don't think anyone here can speak of the 7x80 line compatibility yet.

i was grasshopper, its impossible to keep track of your moves.

how does that transpire? where do you get these stutters in games? watching video? if this issue transpires over external connected monitor it might be your cable not the driver. that's what your basing your conclusion on frustrated trolls on reddit? i believe you're wrong! afaik that driver is mainly dormant for use with older hdmi cable and monitors for sound transmission, its there in case you need it with some older monitors, nowadays most don't really need it its just installed by default. build a custom driver package using NVCleanstall without HD Sound driver and deploy clean driver install.

imho you are going about this the wrong way, you had the driver work properly before right? you should investigate what made it break and malfunction in the first place instead of disabling and or replacing with a dummy, its installed here with no stuttering issues, another option is to run a clean nvidia driver reinstall without HD Audio driver,

i see away mode an attempt to replace classic sleep with a modern sensor based alternative, these function still live side by side on recent win11 and active by default, i guess they will eventually expire one or hide it, for most users this behavior is just fine and prob wanted, i prefer manual approach then auto gears to all aspects of my personal computing, i never let the system sleep or hibernate and i don't ever shut it off its on 24/7/365, i do use it on battery it will last 5 hours watching youtube on my AC settings, that is more then enough for me between charging, i was never a mac user so two week battery life is not expected from a powerful mobile laptop,

away mode is enabled by default and activated by countdown even without sensor presence, the sensor will only give the signal to start countdown without it there is still an arbitrary away countdown, to invoke it is to unhide it first Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\238c9fa8-0aad-41ed-83f4-97be242c8f20\25dfa149-5dd1-4736-b5ab-e8a37b5b8187] "Attributes"=dword:00000002 and toggle it from advance power plan settings, personally i am not a fan of any delay when i move my mouse, my power setup is modern sleep off, hibernate off, and sleep is off, i only kept "turn off screen" after certain time left in its place, the system will go to S3 after the screen shuts off and that's plenty of standby saving (for me) without fully putting the system to hibernate or sleep,

what happens if you let it loop for a while? maybe your power supply is giving up, do you have another power supply that will fit? the screen is not flickering, try connecting external monitor maybe bios has some message with timeout you cannot see? if there is no OS the system will reboot, if the screen is defective that's how it looks,

@kaz26 disconnect the main system battery, after that disconnect cmos battery, next reconnect cmos battery, only then try powering the system with just power brick (keeping systems main battery disconnected),

quick and full format both only remove headers, the difference full format also runs full bad sector scan after marking headers where's quick format bad sector scan is skipped, back in the day common practice with conventional spinning drives with MFT was 7 time format should get enough data removed to the point it cannot be reconstructed or guessed with forensic tools,

congrats, you repsated yet?

I don't ever recall suggesting you delete system32 folder, you should technically not be able to do that while system is live, your best bet is to restore the folder from a backup if you actually deleted it,

no i haven't, i know what you mean though, only judged by my idle temps, after the update they went right up 20c without anything running, im back on 1.8.1 with outlook and 40 chrome threads running and media player playing a video in the background im idling at 36c that's the all the testing needed for me 😉

after update it is still possible to undrvolt but temps with existing undervolt went up 15-20c, i would stay away from updating to bios 1.9.1, went back to 1.8.1 with no apparent issues atm,

did you try disconnecting the systems main battery running on DC power only? (when you remove cmos battery you should also have your main battery disconnected otherwise it defeats the purpose!) FYI: when you remove RAM and power the system it should beep at you constantly, if it didn't something broke before the ram gets powered,

1) Yes 2) don't remember 3) Yes 4) Yes 5) 12950HX 6) 3080Ti 7) 1.8.0

indeed, i inferred from @1610ftw post, i assumed there was more data on the original thread where he saw indicating temps, id say way, that is at the least plausible 😅 i did exactly that with my 12950HX, 26k on my none premium bin is not what most get with the same spec system its more like 22k, a good bin with more efficiency cores things should add up, plus CB23 can tolerate extreme undervolting and overclocking other application will not tolerate, i saw 26k best CB23 score in person for the 12950HX, even if we slap 1% per core increase performance its already close to 10% at least just by merits of number of cores added in the 13980HX,

with LN id expect temps to be in the negative side of temps not ranging in the plus 92c, not too far fetched i think, if he buffered his hardware with fans blasting full throttle for 10-15 min prior benching at around 0c ambient temps (aka outdoor) these temps do make some sense, i think that's a very low median range with additional 8 cores, 12950HX does 26k, you inferring 5% increase from previous gen with 8 less cores?

impressive indeed, i have seen the difference a good silicon makes first hand, id say this is a combination of good bin plus a solid and stable undervolt due to it being a good bin, combined with the ability to buffer the system with fan control and maybe the cold outdoors whether? 😉 i haven't really stressed tested my current rock solid cpu bin, it is still using factory thermal paste, with previous unsettled bins i was able to push up to 26k in CB23, i think my current bin can make even +27k properly prepped, seem to be a solid 30% (rounding) increase from just the 12950HX, at 40k - 45k that's current gen desktop cpu score territory,

thats not too much if anything your application there is bit on the "dry" side for my personal taste, I prefer the "pool" effect on both sides or at least the silicon side, when I say pool I don't mean overdo it just to make sure that there's enough LM so the entire surface acts like a single surface mirror with no craters so it looks almost like a single mirror surface, when you touch the center there should be enough LM so the covered surface remains unified, its a fine line between getting a unified LM surface and overdoing, if you are protecting the area around the cpu you should have no concerns even when overdoing, the thing about LM is not how much you apply its that it runs when hot and can get around and short other components,

i have, other than the full 330w actually drawn from the wall generating more heat, same result as with the 240w power supply no difference whatsoever,