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kaz26

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Everything posted by kaz26

  1. kaz26
    Alright, so I did that and now it's doing something different. Before it would not power back on without me pressing the power button, but now it is stuck in a loop of powering on and shutting off. I have several different RAM sticks and tried this with all of them, finally resulting in something new with the Kingston RAM. I press the power button, it turns on, the keyboard changes color Blue>Green>Red>Blue and stays on blue until it turns off about 30 seconds later, then it turns back on and does it over again repeatedly.
  2. kaz26
    What would you do next if this was your machine? @MyPC8MyBrain * * * * * I am not a pro like some of you, but I am also not a total noob. I try to push my laptop as far as possible because I love this stuff and want to learn as much as I can. I appreciate all of the help I am offered. * * * * * Once again, the fans come on during the 30 seconds that it runs, and they respond to the fn+D command. The keyboard changes color as well. If there is a failure somewhere on the motherboard, I am willing to try and repair it myself and I will document it and post it. I'm willing to see this through if I can get the right help with it. I want to learn this stuff, I'm not just looking for help to get quick answers.
  3. kaz26
    When I disconnected the CMOS battery, I also had the main battery out and also disconnected the power adapter so that no power was connected to the machine. I tried starting 3 different ways: Battery only, Power adapter only, and with both power adapter and battery connected. The same thing happens. In all three scenarios, the same thing occurs. The only time I saw any change was when I swapped out the CPU, however, the computer still will not start. It simply powers on, and the laptop changes color from blue to green to red and back to blue where it stays for about 30 seconds and shuts off on its own. Thank you for the suggestions and information @MyPC8MyBrain Does this seem like it could be a bad BIOS chip? I would like to try and identify the problem before I start soldering on the motherboard. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ In the instance this is a bad BIOS chip I have ordered the BIOS chip required plus a few extras just so that I have them if needed. For programming the BIOS I have a TL866ii Plus which has the chip #MX25L25673GZ4I-08G on the supported device list. So I shouldn't have a problem programming the new chip. Soldering it on shouldn't be too challenging either. I have a hot air soldering station as well as a decent soldering iron.
  4. kaz26
    I was testing different RAM modules and was loosening up the timings on this set of (32GBx2) Mushkin Redline that was giving me problems with XMP profile 1, it corrupted some windows files after a couple BSODs. That was a week ago. Yesterday, I decided to try the RAM again with looser timings. It booted the first time, but was glitchy still and had some errors, so I loosened the timings a little more and when I exited BIOS to restart the PC the keyboard lit up, then it shut off and didn't turn back on. I then hit the power button to turn it back on and it did the same thing. The keyboard lit up for a second, then the system shut down. Sometimes it runs for 3 seconds, sometimes it shuts off almost immediately after I push it. Keyboard light changes from Blue to Green, then shuts off. However, something changed a bit when I swapped the CPU, see #4 below. What I have tried: 1.) Removed CMOS battery, laptop latter and power cord for several minutes after holding down the power button to drain the remaining energy. This did nothing as far as helping the system. 2.) Removed RAM and tried starting the PC. It did the same thing, Ran for 1-3 seconds and shut off. 3.) Tried starting the system without RAM or Hard Drive. The same thing happened. * 4.) Swapped CPU - This is where something finally changed, however, not by much. It now runs for about a minute, the keyboard light changes from Blue to Green to Red and back to Blue where it stays for 1--15 seconds, then it shuts off without every showing anything on the screen. - - - - - I don't know what this could be or what I should do next. I'm leaning toward this being a corrupt BIOS, but I am not sure and that's why I am asking for help with this.
  5. kaz26
    I think using a wattmeter at the wall outlet is the only way to know how many watts the system is actually pulling. There are also clamp style meters that can measure wattage being used.
  6. kaz26
    After playing with settings in the BIOS, the Kingston RAM in running quite well now, even at the default settings. I attached some benchmarks so you can see the results. I also ordered a 330w power supply, but have not received it yet and will take some new benchmarks once I have it up and running. I still need to find a proper connector since the 330w power supply comes with a 7.4mm OD x5.0mm ID connector and I don't want to cut the stock power supply since it still works when the load is under 270w (it stops working when it gets above 270w). The stock 230w power supply is actually good quality and it is small, which I really like. Maybe it would be better to get another one of these 230w adapters and combine them like the Clevo X170KM-G. I'm just not sure if the 330w adapter will be enough, but we will soon find out.
  7. kaz26
    I played around with some of the BIOS settings and got much better results. I wasn't as methodical as I should have been so I'm not entirely sure what I changed to achieve this, but I believe it was something to do with the thermal management settings. The Kingston FURY RAM is running much better now.
  8. kaz26
    Can you tell me what settings you used for your Kingston FURY? The way I'm doing is simply by setting the first three values, the CL, tRCD, and tRP and then letting the other values populate automatically. I have noticed that the tRFC does not change when I change the other timings that I mentioned. Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this. I am new to RAM overclocking, I typically just set it on XMP and leave it. I want to understand it better.
  9. kaz26
    Thank you again, I will try those and report back. I also just ordered a set of the G.Skill 3200MHz to compare. I have searched all over for some kind of comparison between these kits and couldn't find it, so I decided to do it myself. The Vengeance from what I have read is about the same speed as the Kingston FURY, and the OLOy is a little slower than the FURY, so I don't think I will be trying those kits, but we'll see. If anyone reading this has some of those other kits and can run some benchmarks, it would be greatly appreciated.
  10. kaz26
    * Instructions for unlocking the BIOS have been added to the original post, but I want to urge *CAUTION* for those who lack experience with flashing BIOS. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Also, I received the Kingston FURY RAM and will attach some pics of that. It runs at default with 3200MHz, at 1.20v (timings: 20-22-22-42) and was perfectly stable. RAM Overclock: It also runs stable at 18-20-20-28, but the tRFC didn't change and it didn't seem to make much of a difference in benchmark testing. I tried it with 20-20-20-28 and it runs about the same. To be honest, I'm not very knowledgeable with RAM overclocking. All I am doing is setting the CL, tRCD, and tRP and letting everything else go auto. If I need to do something else, please let me know. When I tried this with 16-18-18 the laptop would not boot. I might also try a third kit, the G.Skill 3200MHz CL22. I have a feeling that RAM can run with tighter timings. If it's anything like the other G.Skill kit I have, it will outperform the Kingston FURY.
  11. kaz26
    Unfortunately it was happening with a 3D render yesterday. I looked at the max watts on the wattmeter and it went up to 269.9 before shutting off. So ya, this machine can pull atleast 270w. I'm afraid a 330w AC adapter won't even be enough.
  12. kaz26
  13. kaz26
    The Kingston FURY arrived and I was able to tighten up the timings to CL18. I will post a screenshot of it in HWINFO and also CPUz. It's running stable at this speed also, but I'm not entirely sure what the voltage is. I set it to 1.35v in BIOS, but I would like to verify that it is actually running at that voltage. Are there any RAM benchmarks that you would recommend? So far, the performance seems about the same as my G.Skill 3000MHz 32GB (16GBx2), which is not bad considering this is a 64GB (32GBx2) kit. The only problem I'm having now is that my power supply is too small and keeps shutting off when I run benchmark tests or when I am doing large 3D renderings for work. The power supply is supposedly 230W brick, but my wattmeter is telling me I'm pulling up to 238W from it. They must have underrated this adapter. I'm guessing it's really a 280W power supply. Either way, I'm maxing it out and need to upgrade to a 330W adapter. This could be effecting my system stability.
  14. kaz26
    I'm not sure what you're asking. I feel like there might be some kind of breaker inside the AC adapter that gets triggered by the Superposition program. Whether or not that's what is happening, that's what it seems like.
  15. kaz26
    Good to know! I still need to figure out the situation with my power supply. It might just be a software issue since it wasn't shutting off with the time spy benchmarks. About halfway through the loading screen, my notebook switched to battery and my power supply stops pulling power from the wall until I unplug it and plug it back in. This is something I have never experienced before with any other laptop. Something else that's crazy is that this 230W power supply actually pulled 234W from the wall according to this Intertek brand wattmeter. I will post a pic of it here later. This adapter must be underrated. It might actually be a 280W power supply. Even so, I'm still maxing it out and should be using a larger one.
  16. kaz26
    Alright, so I got one benchmark to run, but I cannot tell you if this is a typical result or not because my system is acting up. When I started running Superposition, the computer started running on battery power and I was getting 10 fps or something like that, so I had to disconnect, then reconnect the power supply. I tried it again, and the same thing happened. I'm not sure why this is happening, but it might be the power supply failing. I have pushed it pretty hard. I ran this on stock settings, no overclock. I will try to resolve this power supply issue, but I might just need a new one. Maybe a larger one. Edit: The first run I score around 5930, then I did another run and did the same thing with plugging in the power supply right after it loaded and this is the score I got. I connected my 230w power supply to a wattmeter and I saw it pull 223w at one point and it consistently pulls over 200w when running this benchmark. So ya, it is getting maxed out. I might get a 330w power supply and splice the cable to it. Aside from that, this software made it clear to me that the GPU cooling will need to be upgraded. I will probably add a cooling pipe to it. Maybe two in the future. I'm just very busy right now, but not too far from now I should have some time to do it. The power supply barrel connector is 2.5mm ID x 5.5mm OD. I found one with a 6ft pigtail a while back, it might have been Digi-key. That might be a better route. * * * Again, I'm not sure how accurate my benchmark is right now with the way this system is currently running. * * * If you download time spy you might get a better comparison. That 11k run was when I had everything running properly. As well as the other benchmarks I ran.
  17. kaz26
    Yes, my GPU cooler is the one that came with the laptop. The only part number I see is the one on the fan sticker which is: 6-31-N96K2-101 Rev: 0.0 Let me know if you can find it anywhere. I wanted to find both the CPU and GPU coolers (Heatsinks) to alleviate the fear of messing up the only one I have. I will do a superposition run soon. Your numbers are looking very good!
  18. kaz26
    Good to know, I will definitely give it a try. What were the timings and voltage you were able to use?
  19. kaz26
    @Etern4l Thank you for the input, I went ahead and ordered a set of the Kingston Fury, it should be just fine for what I do. The difference between the Fury and Ballistix is probably not noticeable in real world use and I don't have the time to mess with it right now. I might give the Redline another shot this weekend. I believe I am able to adjust both the timings and voltage. I will start with a small voltage increase and see where that gets me.
  20. kaz26
    I agree that it's weird how they went right over the RAM chip like that, it's the same way on mine. The GPU cooler on Aliexpress seems to be the one I have. It works very well actually. For what I use it for I haven't had any issues with temps. For benchmarking fun later on I might add some cooling mods. I attached pics I took when I had it apart. If you haven't done so yet, the best bang for the buck cooling mod was the $8 pack of pure copper heatsinks. I actually bought a second pack and added a few more. If I were to add a small additional fan to circulate air inside my machine, it might help quite a bit due to all the added heatsinks I have now, lol.
  21. kaz26
    I soldered it on the hot end, but haven't yet fixed it properly to the cool end on the fan. For now I simply put thermal paste between the pipe and fan and a thin thermal pan between the pipe and bottom cover to hold it against the fan firmly. I have been trying to get some Tech Ingredients thermal epoxy for a while now since it seems superior to any other thermal epoxy on the market. I am hesitant to try soldering to it since the plastic is right there and I don't want to warp the fan. When you try to buy the Tech Ingredients thermal epoxy the link just drops at checkout. I tried reaching out to them, but didn't get a response. There is a video of how it is made, but I don't have time to procure the ingredients including the ultrasonic mixer required. If you find a better solution for fixing it to the fan, please post here. For now, this method has been working well enough for my needs. With fan at 100% I have gotten the CPU temp down to 29C at idle on some of the cores. However, when I finish the mod, it will probably run better when it's being pushed.
  22. kaz26
    That's awesome, very nice!! I haven't started with any GPU cooling mods since the CPU has been such a big source of heat on this machine. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with and how it works. I might add a heatpipe eventually to the GPU cooler, but for now I need to sort out my RAM. Something I have considered doing is adding a small fan where the 2.5" drive would typically go since I have no need for a 2.5" drive.
  23. kaz26
    When I flashed my 3070, I tried three versions. The one that worked was 5.792.0.0. If you search "NVFlash 5.792.0.0" it's at the top of the list. It worked with write protect disabled. Just don't forget to make a backup first using the -b command: nvflash64 -b BACKUP.rom Before flashing it, I believe I had to use the command: nvflash64 --protectoff Then I used the command: nvflash64 -6 (ROM NAME).rom Good luck!
  24. kaz26
    It would be nice to get this Mushkin RAM running the way it is supposed to. I was hoping someone knew of some BIOS settings or software that would make this possible.
  25. kaz26
    Here's a list of RAM kits that fit my needs: All RAM in this list are 64GB kits (32GBx2), SO-DIMM DDR4 listed as capable of 3200Mhz. 1. Crucial Ballistix BL2K32G32C16S4B (CL16) * This one is VERY expensive, approximately 2x the price of the second highest priced kit. 2. G.Skill Ripjaws F4-3200C22D-64GRS (CL22) 3. Kingston HyperX Impact HX432S20IBK2/64 (CL20) 4. Kingston FURY Impact KF432S20IBK2/64 (CL20) 5. Mushkin Redline MRA4S320GJJM32GX2 (CL16) 6. Corsair Vengeance CMSX64GX4M2A3200C22 (CL22) 7. OLOy MD4S3232220BZ0DH (CL22) As I find other kits, I will post them here. For now these are the kits I am aware of.
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