*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[tps3443]

6 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

I have one of these on each desktop and really like them. Half the cost of what you were looking at. 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Construction-Monitoring-Temperature-CL-W275-CU00SW/dp/B08B3S7L3Q/

I was gonna grab one, but the D5 NEXT sold

me. It’s a pump and flow meter combined 😱. 🙂 for $115 it’s hard to pass up. It’ll be here tomorrow. 
 

@Papusan I have always wanted one forever now, but the prices were always something crazy like $190 or $250 and usually sold out, when I saw this one for $128 and another 10% off of that for $115 USD, I could not pass it up. does the flow rate register properly for the entire loop? I assume it would. 
 

What is your flow rate?
 

 

[Papusan]

1 hour ago, tps3443 said:

I was gonna grab one, but the D5 NEXT sold

me. It’s a pump and flow meter combined 😱. 🙂 for $115 it’s hard to pass up. It’ll be here tomorrow. 
 

@Papusan I have always wanted one forever now, but the prices were always something crazy like $190 or $250 and usually sold out, when I saw this one for $128 and another 10% off of that for $115 USD, I could not pass it up. does the flow rate register properly for the entire loop? I assume it would. 
 

What is your flow rate?
 

 

370-395 l/h. Remember the flow rate depends on the water temp. The colder.... The lower flow rate 🙂

 

Edit.

 

[tps3443]

1 minute ago, Papusan said:

370-395 l/h. Remember the flow rate depends on the water temp. The colder.... The lower flow rate 🙂

That is some serious flow! How many pumps? I don’t know what mine is 😞 I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.

[Papusan]

27 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

That is some serious flow! How many pumps? I don’t know what mine is 😞 I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.

I paid 36$ in the used market for the Aqua Computer Next. From a parted pc.

 

 

 

I have two D5 pumps. But expect less increase in the flow rate for each new added pump above 2 or 3. I mean after the 4th pump you don't see a huge increase in flow rate anymore. 

 

See also my older post... 

 

[tps3443]

1 minute ago, Papusan said:

I have two D5 pumps. But expect less increase in the flow rate for each new added pump above 2 or 3. I mean after the 4th pump you don't see a huge increase in flow rate anymore. 

Okay, yeah I was mainly after just tons of water pressure and good flow rate. But now I really just want to know my flow rate. I’ll probably just add this one and stick to 4

pumps.

[ryan]

little late but I just watched @Mr. Foxs video of bf 2042. 180fps at 4k is bonkers. i think id be happy with 60fps right now im into forza 8 getting 30/4k feels ok and looks like the first truely next gen game and its free on game pass to boot. it feels next gen stress test wise because it actually has a use for 6ghz 20 cores. @tps3443i wonder what fps you would get

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Papusan said:

I paid 36$ in the used market for the Aqua Computer Next. From a parted pc.

 

 

 

I have two D5 pumps. But expect less increase in the flow rate for each new added pump above 2 or 3. I mean after the 4th pump you don't see a huge increase in flow rate anymore. 

 

See also my older post... 

 

$36 bucks is amazing. Not gonna find that deal again though lol. Anyways, yeah if I had a regular water loop I would not worry with so many pumps. 

However, a 1/2HP waterchiller, and a 38 liter water tank, these systems are designed for BIG BIG FLOW RATES. Preferably (2-3) Eheim 1260’s. These pumps are capable of 10M+ of head pressure each. If I had normal loop, I’d just run 2 D5’s and be happy. But, I’ve got about 11+ gallons of water combined 😂 that needs to have lots of pressure everywhere. If I unplug just (1) D5, my chiller loses about 200 watts of continuous cooling power. 
 

I have not seen a plateau just yet, every time I improve my flow or add a pump, I see some improvements in how easily my chiller can cool things down. 

[tps3443]

@Papusan I just did some more research and the flow meter in the D5 next is a virtual flow meter 😞 my VPP755 V3’s that I was using before have these too. But, I don’t think they are an accurate measurement. It’s just a guess based on RPM of the pump, it doesn’t account for other pumps, restrictions of the water or anything. It also has a hook up for an external mechanical flow meter though which is nice. 
 

Maybe you know more about it, I am not that confident in a virtual flow meter though. But Maybe I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️
 

I am going to grab this as well. It’s Aqua computers completely stripped down uglier flow meter lol, but it’s fully compatible with the D5 Next, and plugs right in to it. Most of all it is very very accurate, and I will have my real mechanical water flow read right on the pump and in HWINFO. (That’s what I want 🙂)

 

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3951&language=en

 

[Mr. Fox]

Many things affect flow rate. I have 9 QDC fittings and multiple elbows. This reduces flow rate. So does the amount of tubing in a loop. Likewise, the number of components the coolant has to pass through affects flow rate. Using a manifold or distribution block can help because the flow of coolant occurs in parallel to each component. In this scenario the flow rate of coolant through one component will have little or no affect on the other component(s) because the flow to each is handled independently. The flow rate of one component is not hindered by other components in the series because the coolant doesn't have to pass through one part to reach the next. There could be some impact from turbulence, but it would have to be enough turbulence to impede flow rate to the point of becoming detrimental.

 

Flow rate is important, but so is having a system that is convenient to tinker with. I would prefer to add more pumps to keep flow rate up with the extra QDC fittings than to have to frequently drain and refill my system every time I wish to make a simple change to something in my configuration. You will also reach a point that it doesn't matter any more. In general, if the flow rate is around 175-200 L/H it will perform the same as if the flow rate is 300 L/H. As long as the coolant is moving fast enough to carry the water out of the block before it can heat up and the water in the block is swiftly displaced by the cooler incoming water there is no longer a benefit to higher flow rate. Coolant temperature at that point become more important than flow rate. Coolant volume becomes more important because it takes longer to warm the higher volume of coolant present in the loop. It also takes longer for a higher volume to cool down once it has been fully warmed.

 

You could look at it in much the same way as having a fan blowing on a component to keep it cool. At a certain point making the fan runs faster and push air more accomplishes nothing in terms of cooling the component. At the point of maximum benefit, the only way temperatures can improve is if the air the fan is blowing is colder than ambient temperature. This is the point where moving more air at a higher velocity provides no benefit in terms of the component getting cooler. If the component has reached a normalized temperature it will not go lower than the normalized temperature as it relates to ambient temperature. That is why using chilled air is more effective than pushing more air. It is the same reason that using chilled water works when using more water is no longer beneficial.

[Papusan]

1 hour ago, tps3443 said:

@Papusan I just did some more research and the flow meter in the D5 next is a virtual flow meter 😞 my VPP755 V3’s that I was using before have these too. But, I don’t think they are an accurate measurement. It’s just a guess based on RPM of the pump, it doesn’t account for other pumps, restrictions of the water or anything. It also has a hook up for an external mechanical flow meter though which is nice. 
 

Maybe you know more about it, I am not that confident in a virtual flow meter though. But Maybe I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️
 

I am going to grab this as well. It’s Aqua computers completely stripped down uglier flow meter lol, but it’s fully compatible with the D5 Next, and plugs right in to it. Most of all it is very very accurate, and I will have my real mechanical water flow read right on the pump and in HWINFO. (That’s what I want 🙂)

 

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3951&language=en

 

 

Aqua computers offer good parts so I think what you'll archive will be good enough.

 

If you see well above 400 l/hour with two D5 pumps then you know something isn't correct with the measurement. Then it show too high l/h flow. 

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

Flow rate is important, but so is having a system that is convenient to tinker with. I would prefer to add more pumps to keep flow rate up with the extra QDC fittings than to have to frequently drain and refill my system every time I wish to make a simple change to something in my configuration. You will also reach a point that it doesn't matter any more. In general, if the flow rate is around 175-200 L/H it will perform the same as if the flow rate is 300 L/H. As long as the coolant is moving fast enough to carry the water out of the block before it can heat up and the water in the block is swiftly displaced by the cooler incoming water there is no longer a benefit to higher flow rate. Coolant temperature at that point become more important than flow rate. Coolant volume becomes more important because it takes longer to warm the higher volume of coolant present in the loop. It also takes longer for a higher volume to cool down once it has been fully warmed.

 

What I have seen with higher flow rate (add more pumps).... Doesn't really matter if the heat from the IHS/die doesn't move fast enough over to the coldplate. Dual pumps doesn't help much more than a single pump if the heat can't go fast enough out from the die over to the heatsink. Etc an delidded Cpu with direct die cooling will help much more than add a second or 3rd pump. The weak point is always the heat transfer out from the die and over to the coldplate, then to the water loop. 

[Mr. Fox]

4 hours ago, ryan said:

little late but I just watched @Mr. Foxs video of bf 2042. 180fps at 4k is bonkers. i think id be happy with 60fps right now im into forza 8 getting 30/4k feels ok and looks like the first truely next gen game and its free on game pass to boot. it feels next gen stress test wise because it actually has a use for 6ghz 20 cores. @tps3443i wonder what fps you would get

And, that was with screen capture. Here is how it looks without the overhead at 4K.

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

Many things affect flow rate. I have 9 QDC fittings and multiple elbows. This reduces flow rate. So does the amount of tubing in a loop. Likewise, the number of components the coolant has to pass through affects flow rate. Using a manifold or distribution block can help because the flow of coolant occurs in parallel to each component. In this scenario the flow rate of coolant through one component will have little or no affect on the other component(s) because the flow to each is handled independently. The flow rate of one component is not hindered by other components in the series because the coolant doesn't have to pass through one part to reach the next. There could be some impact from turbulence, but it would have to be enough turbulence to impede flow rate to the point of becoming detrimental.

 

Flow rate is important, but so is having a system that is convenient to tinker with. I would prefer to add more pumps to keep flow rate up with the extra QDC fittings than to have to frequently drain and refill my system every time I wish to make a simple change to something in my configuration. You will also reach a point that it doesn't matter any more. In general, if the flow rate is around 175-200 L/H it will perform the same as if the flow rate is 300 L/H. As long as the coolant is moving fast enough to carry the water out of the block before it can heat up and the water in the block is swiftly displaced by the cooler incoming water there is no longer a benefit to higher flow rate. Coolant temperature at that point become more important than flow rate. Coolant volume becomes more important because it takes longer to warm the higher volume of coolant present in the loop. It also takes longer for a higher volume to cool down once it has been fully warmed.

 

You could look at it in much the same way as having a fan blowing on a component to keep it cool. At a certain point making the fan runs faster and push air more accomplishes nothing in terms of cooling the component. At the point of maximum benefit, the only way temperatures can improve is if the air the fan is blowing is colder than ambient temperature. This is the point where moving more air at a higher velocity provides no benefit in terms of the component getting cooler. If the component has reached a normalized temperature it will not go lower than the normalized temperature as it relates to ambient temperature. That is why using chilled air is more effective than pushing more air. It is the same reason that using chilled water works when using more water is no longer beneficial.

Flow rate with chiller and tank are totally different. You can keep adding D5’s and your load in a game chilled water temp will be lower and easier to manage. It ain’t gonna reduce your cpu temps. But, it will increase how effectively your chiller can cool, how fast it can cool, and most importantly what water temp it can sustain forever, and how much wattage it can cool without a climbing water temp.  (3) D5’s is not enough. I think (5) would do it though.
 

Slow flow or too low head pressure causes chillers to run and run and run. 

[Mr. Fox]

6 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

Flow rate with chiller and tank are totally different. You can keep adding D5’s and your load in a game chilled water temp will be lower and easier to manage. It ain’t gonna reduce your cpu temps. But, it will increase how effectively your chiller can cool, and how much wattage it can cool.  (3) D5’s is not enough. I think (5) would do it though. 
 

Slow flow or too low head pressure causes chillers to run and run and run. 

My tank, insulation, additional tubing and associated parts will arrive on Monday. The 13900KS I bought from the guy in Germany should be here on Monday as well. It was supposed to be delivered today, but it just sat in New Jersey at US Customs with USPS for four days with no movement. Still no response from Supercool on when/if the missing parts shipped, so I have no idea if they have. Initial response was quick, but I made two requests for a tracking number and got nothing.

[tps3443]

5 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

My tank, insulation, additional tubing and associated parts will arrive on Monday. The 13900KS I bought from the guy in Germany should be here on Monday as well. It was supposed to be delivered today, but it just sat in New Jersey at US Customs with USPS for four days with no movement. Still no response from Supercool on when/if the missing parts shipped, so I have no idea if they have. Initial response was quick, but I made two requests for a tracking number and got nothing.

Awesome. I’m gonna add these last few bits to my loop and be done for a while, lol. I wanted to ask if you have ever had re-accumulating air in a loop before? I have some air that is trapped in my chillers internal tank, I will move the chiller around and the air is immediately bled off through a pump and in to and out of my big water tank. However, the air returns after 1 day. I have no bubbles in my lines or blocks. No leaks or anything. 
 

Is it possible a leaking pump/part/fitting seal/O-Ring could pull air in to the system without exhibiting signs of a water leak?  
 

Im confused why this air keeps returning. I’m going straight from chiller/pump/tank/ air exits fill port. I shake and check the entire system for air. NONE. And it will return after some hours. 
 

 

[Mr. Fox]

35 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

Awesome. I’m gonna add these last few bits to my loop and be done for a while, lol. I wanted to ask if you have ever had re-accumulating air in a loop before? I have some air that is trapped in my chillers internal tank, I will move the chiller around and the air is immediately bled off through a pump and in to and out of my big water tank. However, the air returns after 1 day. I have no bubbles in my lines or blocks. No leaks or anything. 
 

Is it possible a leaking pump/part/fitting seal/O-Ring could pull air in to the system without exhibiting signs of a water leak?  
 

Im confused why this air keeps returning. I’m going straight from chiller/pump/tank/ air exits fill port. I shake and check the entire system for air. NONE. And it will return after some hours. 

Air can be pulled in if there is a leak on the suction side if your pumps are arranged in a manner that creates a high side and low side like an HVAC system. The only way you can continue taking on air is if the water is leaking out somewhere. The only explanation I can think of is that the air ended up in the tank from other places in the loop. If you keep adding more water there will be no space for the air once all of the water displaces all of the air. That being said, water in the tank or reservoir is of no consequence and that is where you would want it to end up. The only place the air is a problem is inside of a waterblock. If the tank is the highest point in the loop, it would be totally normal for the air to end up in the tank. It should stay there.

 

Whenever I drain one of my loops it takes topping it off several times until no more air appears in the reservoirs. I can fill them to the brim and within a day there is an inch or so of air, and I have to repeat that 2 or 3 times or the course of as many days before no more air appears in the reservoirs. 

  

1 hour ago, Papusan said:

What I have seen with higher flow rate (add more pumps).... Doesn't really matter if the heat from the IHS/die doesn't move fast enough over to the coldplate. Dual pumps doesn't help much more than a single pump if the heat can't go fast enough out from the die over to the heatsink. Etc an delidded Cpu with direct die cooling will help much more than add a second or 3rd pump. The weak point is always the heat transfer out from the die and over to the coldplate, then to the water loop. 

Yes, that is exactly right. The best cooling system in the world is limited by the ability of the water block to capture and remove the heat from the processor (CPU or GPU). Increasing flow rate won't help if the water block is already pulling the most it is capable of pulling.

 

Same thing with air cooling. Cranking the fan up to highest possible speeds and moving more air over the radiator fins won't do anything but create extra noise if the cold plate and heat pipes have reached their peak efficiency and ability to wick the heat from the processor and radiate that heat through the fins.

 

In either case you reach a plateau where nothing changes and the only additional steps are using different TIM and using colder air or colder coolant.

[tps3443]

20 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Air can be pulled in if there is a leak on the suction side if your pumps are arranged in a manner that creates a high side and low side like an HVAC system. The only way you can continue taking on air is if the water is leaking out somewhere. The only explanation I can think of is that the air ended up in the tank from other places in the loop. If you keep adding more water there will be no space for the air once all of the water displaces all of the air. That being said, water in the tank or reservoir is of no consequence and that is where you would want it to end up. The only place the air is a problem is inside of a waterblock. If the tank is the highest point in the loop, it would be totally normal for the air to end up in the tank. It should stay there.

 

Whenever I drain one of my loops it takes topping it off several times until no more air appears in the reservoirs. I can fill them to the brim and within a day there is an inch or so of air, and I have to repeat that 2 or 3 times or the course of as many days before no more air appears in the reservoirs. 

  

Yes, that is exactly right. The best cooling system in the world is limited by the ability of the water block to capture and remove the heat from the processor (CPU or GPU). Increasing flow rate won't help if the water block is already pulling the most it is capable of pulling.

 

Same thing with air cooling. Cranking the fan up to highest possible speeds and moving more air over the radiator fins won't do anything but create extra noise if the cold plate and heat pipes have reached their peak efficiency and ability to wick the heat from the processor and radiate that heat through the fins.

 

In either case you reach a plateau where nothing changes and the only additional steps are using different TIM and using colder air or colder coolant.

 

The 10ga tank is almost all the way full, and the fill port is always open. So air can continuously bleed and repeat. It’s never ending lol. So, I’m not adding water. Just noticing that I always have air in my loop. I can work all of the air out but it eventually returns. It feels like something is sucking air in. One of my pumps does sound a little bubbly at times, even after getting all the air out of the system, I have a feeling it’s sucking air in to the loop from a pump, but no leaking water.

[Mr. Fox]

10 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

 

The 10ga tank is almost all the way full, and the fill port is always open. So air can continuously bleed and repeat. It’s never ending lol. So, I’m not adding water. Just noticing that I always have air in my loop and I can shake it out. It feels like something is sucking air in. One of my pumps does sound a little bubbly at times, I have a feeling it’s sucking air in to the loop from a pump. But, I have no leaks at all. 

I misunderstood that you were getting air in the lines and not additional air accumulating in the tank. In that case it is probably sucking air in at some location. I once had some tubing that was getting pulled out of the compression fitting and it was making bubbles sucking air in and not leaking water out. It was strange. I did not notice the tubing until I started looking for the source of the bubbles. If that is happening it is most likely at the inlet side of one of the pumps. If it were on the outlet side you would be dripping water.

 

The reason it would not leak water is likely because the tank fill port is open and no pressure is building. If you were to plug the fill port you would likely start to see a water leak at the point it is taking on air because it would pressurize the system with with the fill port being closed. If you can find it and stop it, you are better off without the loop being pressurized. It is less likely to encounter any coolant leaks if the system is not pressurized.

[tps3443]

23 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

I misunderstood that you were getting air in the lines and not additional air accumulating in the tank. In that case it is probably sucking air in at some location. I once had some tubing that was getting pulled out of the compression fitting and it was making bubbles sucking air in and not leaking water out. It was strange. I did not notice the tubing until I started looking for the source of the bubbles. If that is happening it is most likely at the inlet side of one of the pumps. If it were on the outlet side you would be dripping water.

 

The reason it would not leak water is likely because the tank fill port is open and no pressure is building. If you were to plug the fill port you would likely start to see a water leak at the point it is taking on air because it would pressurize the system with it being sealed.

It’s really annoying, before it was actually pressurizing the tank, so much in fact that is caused my other D5 to push and leak water through the actual pump ring seal 🤣 that is a tremendous amount of pressure, the tank was turning in to a giant foot ball with rounded corners, it was gonna blow the house up, then I decided to leave the fill port open, problem solved, but now air is still slowly pulling in the loop some how 🤣. Anyways, thanks! I will check the pump inlet fittings. 

[D2ultima]

Okay I have a solid question here... am I doing something wrong? My bclk just won't sit at 100MHz even if I set it above 100MHz. I just want that nice, flush 5.2GHz showing up

[Mr. Fox]

16 minutes ago, D2ultima said:

Okay I have a solid question here... am I doing something wrong? My bclk just won't sit at 100MHz even if I set it above 100MHz. I just want that nice, flush 5.2GHz showing up

Look in your BIOS and find the BCLK Spread Spectrum setting and disable it. That will mostly eliminate it and setting it for like 100.05 will take care of the 0.05 MHz variance below your multiplier. If you can't locate it, let me know and I can tell you what screen it is on.

  

17 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

It’s really annoying, before it was actually pressurizing the tank, so much in fact that is caused my other D5 to push and leak water through the actual pump ring seal 🤣 that is a tremendous amount of pressure, the tank was turning in to a giant foot ball with rounded corners, it was gonna blow the house up, then I decided to leave the fill port open 🤣. Anyways, thanks! I will check the pump inlet fittings. 

That is also kind of dangerous. If it was bloating the tank like that you run the risk of one of the hoses getting pushed out of the compression fitting. That's too much pressure and the pressure is not beneficial for cooling. I've actually had that happen before and it made a huge mess. Luckily it did not short any of my parts or cause any damage to anything other than my laminate flooring that got drenched in water. You can actually purchase a pressure vent for a custom loop system to keep that from happening.

[D2ultima]

14 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Look in your BIOS and find the BCLK Spread Spectrum setting and disable it. That will mostly eliminate it and setting it for like 100.05 will take care of the 0.05 MHz variance below your multiplier. If you can't locate it, let me know and I can tell you what screen it is on.

Sure I can go look, if you know where it is on an ASUS BIOS that'll be helpful. Does it otherwise do anything?

[Mr. Fox]

35 minutes ago, D2ultima said:

Sure I can go look, if you know where it is on an ASUS BIOS that'll be helpful. Does it otherwise do anything?

All is does is reduce fluctuation of BCLK. Most modern desktop motherboards have a search feature where you can search for key word and it will show all settings with the resulting matches. If you search for "spread" it will show it to you and if you click on the item at the bottom of the screen it will tell you the path.

 

In this case, you will find it in your ASUS BIOS on the Extreme Tweaker page under Tweaker's Paradise.

 

There are three Spread Spectrums and they all do basically the same thing (reduce fluctuation in frequency to make it more static). You want BCLK Spread Spectrum. There is also a VRM and PCIe/DMI Spread Spectrum. Having them enabled is intended to reduce electromagnetic interference. I think the worst thing that might happen is you could encounter for very minor audio artifacts on your speakers, but even that is not very likely.

 

@Premaoften sets it to disabled or 0% in his Clevo BIOS mods. Some of the modern turdbooks do not allow modifying it, even with a professional firmware mod.

 

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

Look in your BIOS and find the BCLK Spread Spectrum setting and disable it. That will mostly eliminate it and setting it for like 100.05 will take care of the 0.05 MHz variance below your multiplier. If you can't locate it, let me know and I can tell you what screen it is on.

  

That is also kind of dangerous. If it was bloating the tank like that you run the risk of one of the hoses getting pushed out of the compression fitting. That's too much pressure and the pressure is not beneficial for cooling. I've actually had that happen before and it made a huge mess. Luckily it did not short any of my parts or cause any damage to anything other than my laminate flooring that got drenched in water. You can actually purchase a pressure vent for a custom loop system to keep that from happening.

Yep, for sure. This happen day 1 of tank setup, I was just thankful it stopped at a pump, and did not reach my GPU/CPU/RAM and force a leak, I was so mad when this happen lol. I popped a hole in that inlet cover where a 1.5” threaded plug can go, some of the threaded holes are sealed off with a thin plastic layer from the factory, so they are closed, and opening them is optional, you’ll see what I mean, and you gotta punch them out. This hole allowed it to breathe and let the air out of the tank. Anyways, I hope I found the leak. I replaced the fittings on one of the pumps, and cut new tubing for it. I think it was the suspect. But, I’ll have to go through them all. I also put the tank under my desk. Better insulation for sure. 

I run a pump on both sides of my tank, and both sides of chiller. This method works so well. It makes that chiller cool down QUICK. That’s the most important thing really, the other parts don’t really matter. 

 

 

[D2ultima]

3 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

All is does is reduce fluctuation of BCLK. Most modern desktop motherboards have a search feature where you can search for key word and it will show all settings with the resulting matches. If you search for "spread" it will show it to you and if you click on the item at the bottom of the screen it will tell you the path.

 

In this case, you will find it in your ASUS BIOS on the Extreme Tweaker page under Tweaker's Paradise.

 

There are three Spread Spectrums and they all do basically the same thing (reduce fluctuation in frequency to make it more static). You want BCLK Spread Spectrum. There is also a VRM and PCIe/DMI Spread Spectrum. Having them enabled is intended to reduce electromagnetic interference. I think the worst thing that might happen is you could encounter for very minor audio artifacts on your speakers, but even that is not very likely.

 

@Premaoften sets it to disabled or 0% in his Clevo BIOS mods. Some of the modern turdbooks do not allow modifying it, even with a professional firmware mod.

 

Well apparently my BIOS lacks it as an option entirely, as you can see with the search function below

 

and

 

[Mr. Fox]

2 hours ago, D2ultima said:

Well apparently my BIOS lacks it as an option entirely, as you can see with the search function below

 

and

 

That's strange. The Strix Z690-E that I used to have had it. Maybe they removed it in a BIOS update downgrade.

  

15 hours ago, D2ultima said:

Ah I wanna pop in on this, they only make AMD cards but Sapphire is such an excellent company that they make EVGA look average by comparison.

 

The MILLISECOND they start making Nvidia GPUs (which I highly doubt) I will instantaneously no longer consider any other Nvidia GPU manufacturer to exist

You're correct in doubting it. Sapphire was an ATi AIB before they were purchased by AMD back in the day before NVIDIA displaced them as the world's premier GPU ODM. My last ATi (pre-AMD) Radeon All-in-Wonder Pro and Rage Pro (circa 1996-1997) were made by Sapphire. They have always been ATi/AMD-only. PCIe did not even exist back then. The cutting edge GPU slot back then was AGP and the VRAM was measured in MB instead of GB.