IamTechknow

Hey for those who unlocked their notebook's GPU power limits, it appears NVIDIA has released driver 528.02 on Thursday. I will install it and confirm whether or not the power limit for my laptop's GPU can be adjusted still. EDIT: Yes I confirm the power limit can still be adjusted, at least from 1-100%, someone with a Precision notebook, update your GeForce driver and check it!

You can have one or both GPUs run folding@home to help crowdsource protein folding to study diseases, but it's 100% charity

I am pretty sure the TDP figures in the second screenshot don't include the 25W that comes from dynamic boost, which means the TDPs match leaked figures back in October

@win32asmguy's discovery is pretty cool and appears to be generic for any PC with an NVIDIA GPU. So I tried this in my current laptop which is a 2019 Clevo: I installed the driver (which is the latest as of this writing) and MSI afterburner beta, and the power limit is unlocked to me for the first time! But it's already set to 100% for me which is both the default and maximum in GPU-Z. Also because I have an original (pre-Max P) 20 series mobile GPU it reports the TDP in percentage instead of the discrete number (which is a puny 80W)

Gotcha, thanks for sharing your results. Yeah that 120W measurement was no thermal throttling in HWInfo doesn't match up with either the control panel, CPU-Z, or my guess

Yes, there is in fact a vacuum cooler that sits next to a laptop's vents to cool it down. Jarrod's tech did a video on this, but he found the difference between the vacuum cooler and a laptop tilted up with a stand/block is minimal:

I'm curious to know if the Max-Q Technologies being "Yes" accounts for the TDP discrepancy we are seeing here, or has anyone able to rule that out? Max-Q GPUs tend to have much lower power limits, but I think 115W would be too high, I would expect to be seeing an actual TDP of 80W or 90W instead. Or perhaps with dynamic boost enabled, it could be 90W + 25W? EDIT: A day after this post, win32asmguy made a breakthrough that concludes Max-Q Technologies being "Yes" does not influence the power limit.

The 13900HX should be much faster than the 12900HX even. It looks like the article is comparing the 13900HX with the desktop 12900K and asserting that it scores 20% higher than the desktop CPU.

This is from a different topic but it sums up my thoughts! AMD will join Intel in creating high-end mobile HX equalivent with its "Dragon Range" Zen 4 CPUs next year, if it somehow makes it into a Clevo then that could be pretty interesting. Otherwise this year's Clevo BGA laptops are ripoff IMO, they have DDR4 memory and aren't priced competitively compared to Lenovo at least.

I don't own a X170SM, but I saved it when it was in NBR two years back, from this topic: https://www.nbrchive.net/xfa/sager-and-clevo.1017/X170SM Unlocked Bios Here Plus ALL drivers/ Is this one you're looking for? Too big to upload to attachment, but you can DM me. BTW the second file link in the archived post works if you want to try that.

Wow, this reminds me of the 20 inch Dell XPS M2010 laptop way back in 2006, which had its own wireless/unattached keyboard. I can't tell by the video but the screen bezels seem to be pretty big.

Yeah, this new USB version reminded me of USB 3.1 Gen 1/USB 3.2 Gen 1 which much worse. I'm going to guess that the new version is not called 5.0 because it is backwards compatible, but I would have preferred 4.1. I'm sure we will be waiting for 1 or 2 years to see USB 4.0 2.0 devices and ports released, right?

I ordered the Honeywell TPM7950 in May and chose Yun-Express(Standard) (7-15 days), it was $4.73 at the time. Took ~2 weeks to arrive

Here's pictures of me applying the Honeywell TPM7950 to my laptop. Like KING19 said you might need to apply excess pad because it's pretty malleable and then clean it up afterwards. The GPU is a RTX 2060 mobile and the CPU Intel i7-8750h, sadly I did not measure the dies but I'm not sure those dimensions fit my photos BTW does your package include pull tabs? Mine does but I didn't realize I had them until I applied the pad, they could make pulling the plastic film easy .

Some people are experimenting with the driver in the nvidia subreddit driver megathread to see what the performance increase could be. People are reporting gains with 30 series GPUs, I seen a couple posts that 20 series GPUs are getting gains too. The driver seems to introduce issues too as usual, so far I only heard of map corruption in CP2077

Jarrod's Tech posted their full video review of the 2022 Lenovo Legion 7i, and he does have a section on the BIOS. There's an option to enable CPU overclocking (his model has the maxed-out i9-12900HX though) and GPU overclocking but doesn't appear to be an option to undervolt. Build quality wise, this year's model appears to be a good improvement from last year - I'm definitely interested in getting a model with the 3070 Ti

It could depend from model to model. I haven't seen Youtube videos of the Legion 5/7 2022 model BIOS, but one from 2020 shows an undervolt option (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecn_sKNeiKc), and another for an AMD model allow GPU overclocking (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR_ywamrspQ Anyway Jarrod's Tech has a new video for benchmarking the Lenovo 7i which covers a lot about it but nothing about the BIOS. This isn't the full review, that's actually still coming!

Do it for science! You can find it in eBuy7, cheapest listing there and 80mmx80mm pad is fine. Expect 2 weeks shipping to US, anywhere else not sure. One piece of advice when installing it is the pad should come with pull tabs to remove the plastic cover of the pad. Then you can buy a smaller pad and save a bit of money. I didn't know this so I decided to put a cut a piece bigger than my GPU's die and removed excess lol

I also tried the Honeywell TPM7950 thermal pad, and it works much better than the IC Diamond re-paste that I did which was 7 months old by the time I replaced it back at May. I will admit my laptop has a RTX 2060 with a TDP limit of "only" 80W (circa 2019 so no dynamic boost) so I like to see it applied on a laptop that could hit 140+W. Here are screenshots of Furmark that show how fast temperature increases with both pastes (with the Honeywell thermal pad it doesn't throttle), in room temperature (70°F/21°C). Nowadays I say the temperature throttling limit for my laptop is 81°C and it doesn't hit it as easily as with IC Diamond

Yeah this is difficult for me to do. With the ribbon cable in, I haven't been able to put anything bigger than a sticky note pad on top of it, and folding it in half will cause it to no longer fit. Assuming it's as thick as a piece of paper I only got 0.004 inch/0.1mm to work with. I bent a few of the top pins slightly trying to jam a plastic card piece and the folded note pad in but it only fits in a few pins. I didn't want to risk bending them with tweezers b/c they would most likely break. Breaking the top pins likely wouldn't affect the laptop but... I'm not even sure if wedging the ribbon cable down successfully would work for my case b/c even though the LED lighting still works I haven't been able to get the keyboard to work even for a few seconds. Here's what I mean: I tried to press down the plastic card piece with 2mm tesa tape while it was right next to the top pins but not squeezed between them and the ribbon cable. That didn't work, the LEDs did its thing but the keys were non-responsive. I then tried to press down the ribbon cable end with a tweezer (the non-sharp end) while the laptop was on and the keyboard was held up (I didn't try pressing down on the entire cable with my finger as to not short anything). The keys still didn't work. The ribbon cable plastic has been damaged a little bit on two of the pins already so it's possible that part doesn't work anymore. So after cleaning up and typing this up on this very laptop, I feel I haven't ruled out anything but the things I can try are more risky so I'm likely not going to try to fix the keyboard when a USB keyboard (and everything else with the laptop) still works. This laptop is 3.5 years old, so I'll probably upgrade within a year! (either a laptop or desktop, haven't thought about it yet)

Thanks for chiming in, didn't realize someone else would have gone thru this problem, I guess notebooktalk attracts us kind of people 🙂 I'm using an external keyboard to type on the laptop but yeah I'm starting to look into clamping the ribbon cable down somehow. The problem I see with my laptop is there's not much space between the keyboard and the cable so I'm trying to use tesa tape which is super sticky, double sided and is only 2mm high. Also now I have removed the tab without breaking it any further, see photos below. I can actually put the cable all the way in in the gap between the two sets of pins. I cut up part of an old insurance card, align tape on it and then press it on the ribbon cable, but the keyboard still didn't quite work (first and 3rd photos). However at one point the keyboard light up blue so the LED portion works but not the keys... So yeah I'm going to try to wedge/clamp the cable with something. Waiting for the roll of tesa tape to come in! (don't worry about the cracked black plastic sheet in the 3rd photo, those were created by using a screwdriver to push up the keyboard when taking the back panel 2 weeks after I bought the laptop before I realized I can use a iFixit opener to get the keyboard out safely)

No that is definitely not the case, I can put the tab in the "down" position, just not with the cable inserted. There's no other broken plastic other than the bit that broke off. Even though I was asking for help I'll keep posting about my efforts to repair my laptop! Anyway I found that my computer will boot fine without the keyboard connected, and I can even enter the BIOS with a USB keyboard! I tried to clamp down the ribbon cable with tesa 61395 tape and while I was able to get the cable in place, the laptop keyboard still wasn't connected. Furthermore it seems I can pull the tab partially out (most likely due to the broken plastic bit) which reveals there's a gap between the pins the cable can go through. So my best guess is even when I can get the cable in contact with the metal pins on the connector, it's won't work until I can put it all the way in. I havethe iFixit tesa pre-cut card so I'm going to get a roll of the tape before I try again. If I can't get it to work, I'll try to remove or even break off the tab from the connector and then follow the youtube video ( )

When I try to lock the tab after lining up the ribbon cable, the tab won't go down enough to lock AFAICT. Forcing it down can cause the ribbon cable to move away from the electrical contacts so it's not connected, or in my case resulted in a small bit of plastic breaking off (I couldn't lock the tab before that) Anyway I did some research and I think this is a salvageable situation. The tab, which is still largely intact, in my photo above is a 24 pin Molex FFC Easy-On front connector, so there's cheap to find replacements in digikey or eBay. I also found YouTube videos about a hack to secure it with tape and paper and another one to solder on a replacement part. I think the first video is enough for me to secure it, at least long enough until I buy a new gaming laptop (this one is 3.5 years old) or build a desktop. I haven't soldered in a long time let alone on a laptop so the 2nd video is a last resort.

Hey everyone, I been lurking here for a while but now found myself needing help. I decided to remove all the ribbon cables on the keyboard of my Clevo P960ED to I can shake it and blow compressed air to clean it. Well I turns out I literally can't put back the big ribbon cable! There are two smaller cables and I found for both I can put it inside a slot of space between the tab and port so that it goes in a little and then push down the tab to secure it. I can't seem to do that all for the big cable though, see attached picture. No matter what I seem to do I can't put it inside a slot or push the tab down, the cable always end up loose when I release my finger. I ended up breaking off a tiny bit of plastic from the tab but I don't think that made any difference yet. Any advice to put back the ribbon cable to the slot? And yeah I'll be sure to never take it out again!