IllusiveMan Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Hello community, Here is the long story short, again, the GPU upgrade story. Since beginning I went from GTX1060 to GTX1080 with the heatsink upgrade and lapping process, which helps temps a lot even with crap thermal paste. Now it was time for the final GPU upgrade, initially thought for RTX2080 but eventually got the RTX3080 as it's almost the top possible upgrade (maybe with GA102 chip replacement but it's way too expensive already). For the BIOS I had taken some of Dsanke RTX version and updated the subsystem ID to match the x170km for proper driver install and realtek audio driver (but still missing the soundblaster app, can't find it anywhere and my old hdd is still waiting for data extraction). And the heatsink, could not get at proper price the modded ones from taobao or that 1688 so I took the P751TM1 RTX version and the work began. First, drill the heatsink for the two 22 coils and third one marked these with blue, 3 holes for the screws (forgot about ~2mm core displacement) and added metal the 4th screw marked with red: Next is adding metal for memory displacement and some for VRMs: Next was the process of soldering, so I had some drops of SD-628T which is a must if soldering to this kind of aluminium heatsink: eventually had to replace top part with copper as aluminium did not want to solder at all. As of thermal pads, had to use thermal gum for top iductors and memory since the pads would be like 0.5mm thik and didn't had any of these: The screws and springs are custom, longer ones from other laptop model: The process took like 2 weeks of hard work and measurements, including lapping process. Temps keep good, ~45C in 22C room temp under normal load, as for high load, ~65C with ~120W on GPU and ~45W 8086K CPU. Maybe this overview helps anyone in case of upgrade to rtx30xx seriess. As it remains, a way to fool the driver for GSync (screen ROM edit and maybe other edits) but the 60HZ screen is not worth for now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reciever Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Welcome to the Forums and thanks for sharing! Once you get past 3 posts you should be able to post more freely, its a measure to reduce bots and malicious accounts. Happy Posting! AM4-DD | 5800X3D @ 4.45Ghz | Red Devil 7900 XTX | 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz | 2TB NVME | Intel X710 DAC @ 10Gbps | 550w + 900w (GPU) | Win10 UNRAID | 10850K @ 4.8Ghz | 16GB DDR4 4000Mhz | P1000 | 9300i-16P | Intel X520 DAC @ 20Gbps | 48TB HDD's | EVGA 1300w | Unraid GameStream | E5-2667v3 16c/32t | 64GB DDR4 2133Mhz | RTX 3090Ti | 3x 512GB | 925w + 900w (GPU) | Win11 HomeLab (x2) | E5-2650v4 24c/48t | 128GB DDR4 2133Mhz | 2x2TB NVME / 2x1TB NVME / 2x2TB HDD | Proxmox Telegram / TS3 / Twitter 2700X to 5800X3D upgrade! With a 10850K cameo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IllusiveMan Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 On 4/10/2025 at 3:01 AM, Reciever said: Welcome to the Forums and thanks for sharing! Once you get past 3 posts you should be able to post more freely, its a measure to reduce bots and malicious accounts. Happy Posting! Expand Welcome! Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShifflyTheSHO Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 On 4/9/2025 at 9:35 AM, IllusiveMan said: Hello community, Here is the long story short, again, the GPU upgrade story. Since beginning I went from GTX1060 to GTX1080 with the heatsink upgrade and lapping process, which helps temps a lot even with crap thermal paste. Now it was time for the final GPU upgrade, initially thought for RTX2080 but eventually got the RTX3080 as it's almost the top possible upgrade (maybe with GA102 chip replacement but it's way too expensive already). For the BIOS I had taken some of Dsanke RTX version and updated the subsystem ID to match the x170km for proper driver install and realtek audio driver (but still missing the soundblaster app, can't find it anywhere and my old hdd is still waiting for data extraction). And the heatsink, could not get at proper price the modded ones from taobao or that 1688 so I took the P751TM1 RTX version and the work began. First, drill the heatsink for the two 22 coils and third one marked these with blue, 3 holes for the screws (forgot about ~2mm core displacement) and added metal the 4th screw marked with red: Next is adding metal for memory displacement and some for VRMs: Next was the process of soldering, so I had some drops of SD-628T which is a must if soldering to this kind of aluminium heatsink: eventually had to replace top part with copper as aluminium did not want to solder at all. As of thermal pads, had to use thermal gum for top iductors and memory since the pads would be like 0.5mm thik and didn't had any of these: The screws and springs are custom, longer ones from other laptop model: The process took like 2 weeks of hard work and measurements, including lapping process. Temps keep good, ~45C in 22C room temp under normal load, as for high load, ~65C with ~120W on GPU and ~45W 8086K CPU. Maybe this overview helps anyone in case of upgrade to rtx30xx seriess. As it remains, a way to fool the driver for GSync (screen ROM edit and maybe other edits) but the 60HZ screen is not worth for now. Expand For my P650SH , I used the Custom Resolution Utility to manually set my 4K display with corrupted EDID data to both have both 48hz and 60hz in its selectable resolutions with the Freesync range data marker and then Nvidia was able to recognize that it was a Gsync display!!! Without CRU, my display was nothing but a black screen whenever the Nvidia display drivers would load, but I have my 135kHz Modded Trinitron right next to my workstation as a primary display while I figure out which screen to give my P750DM3…. Like, is it really a 40pin connector and why or how is the Alienware m15 r6 240hz 1440p screen a 30pin connector? Thanks Dell, now I have to bug an eDP board from China and make it fit inside my case to use my 1620p 120hz OLED against and make it work fr… LCD panels are all garbage to me anyways, so maybe this was a sign to make that 3080 16GB push the resolution it was designed to use… lol my 21” CRT is at 120hz 2160x1620 thanks to DSR factors, so I should probably go AMOLED or keep my 60hz 1080p. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IllusiveMan Posted Friday at 09:11 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 09:11 PM On 4/20/2025 at 4:04 AM, ShifflyTheSHO said: For my P650SH , I used the Custom Resolution Utility to manually set my 4K display with corrupted EDID data to both have both 48hz and 60hz in its selectable resolutions with the Freesync range data marker and then Nvidia was able to recognize that it was a Gsync display!!! Without CRU, my display was nothing but a black screen whenever the Nvidia display drivers would load, but I have my 135kHz Modded Trinitron right next to my workstation as a primary display while I figure out which screen to give my P750DM3…. Like, is it really a 40pin connector and why or how is the Alienware m15 r6 240hz 1440p screen a 30pin connector? Thanks Dell, now I have to bug an eDP board from China and make it fit inside my case to use my 1620p 120hz OLED against and make it work fr… LCD panels are all garbage to me anyways, so maybe this was a sign to make that 3080 16GB push the resolution it was designed to use… lol my 21” CRT is at 120hz 2160x1620 thanks to DSR factors, so I should probably go AMOLED or keep my 60hz 1080p. Expand I was looking for years for a hi frequency 15.6 panel, like 144hz or more but this is like looking for life on Mars so I am stuck with the 60hz one.. 40pin was to be like the top one, never heard of 30pin 240hz 1440p, how is that possible?! Yes, LCD is crap, since I have the little AW 13r3 with Oled it's a big deal. But it's still a dream to find such displays. I love when everywhere are secrets within secrets, that EDID not sure how exactly works, is it close to the RAM DIMM EEPROM? I used to flash RAMs to their best specs and change to anything desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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