
Khenglish
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Khenglish last won the day on December 16 2024
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Since you have a programmer it's fairly safe to try other vbios. The memory strap ID on your card will likely select Micron memory settings despite whatever Techpowerup says the vbios is for. For vbios that don't match you'll likely get a brick or error 43, but you can just use your programmer to flash back. The vbios chip will be 1.8V, so make sure your programmer has an adapter to step 3.3v down to 1.8v.
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You're not going to be able to reduce the TDP with a modded vBIOS. A modded vBIOS will have an invalid digital signiture and the card will refuse to run. There likely are other unmodded vBIOS you can flash on your card. The memory configuration is set by a set of 3 pairs of resistors on the card. Micron, Hynix, and Samsung all have different physical programmings. vBIOS often have the same encodings between vendors, so there are likely other vBIOS that are compatible despite the card the vBIOS being intended for never having Micron vRAM. It is dangerous to experiment with flashing other vBIOS though through nvflash without having a physical programmer. nvflash will often let you flash in one direction, but refuse to let you flash back due to board ID mismatch, so you can brick the card trying this. Another option is to remove and replace the current measuring shunt resistor on the card. There will be a 5mOhm resistor that you could replace with say a 6mOhm resistor for a 17% power reduction. This is a big resistor though that most soldering irons are not strong enough to remove.
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Clevo Z170 with QTJ1 - compatible memory speeds?
Khenglish replied to grisevg's topic in Sager & Clevo
Ram can clock a lot higher if you populate all slots on the channel. With a 9900K I can do 2933 with 2 modules, but with 4 I can do 3466. With that said, only being able to do 2400 sounds low. It sounds like you're using very old DDR4 sticks. Something newer rated for 3200 will clock much better. If the 3200 can't boot at defaults, you can boot with the 2400 stick, set say 2933, then switch the sticks and the 2933 override will stay in place despite the stick change. -
I am in the US. Thanks for the offer. I was thinking of the X170 vapor chamber, but I'd probably break it removing and replacing the heat pipes. Even if I didn't temps would probably only improve by 1-2C. Temps are already excellent with the mods I have done. Much better than my P150EM with a Clevo 2080 monstrosity. That thing runs around 16C hotter at the same power.
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Without the added heatsinks and external fan temps would cap out around 77C with the power limit mod after letting temps plateau. 67C at the default 155W limit. P775 radiators are less deep than the fan depth. curving the fan shrouds into rhe radiator helps temps a little.
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The end of the 2nd GPU test would be 59C. No vapor chamber. P750 chasis with P775 heatsinks as the baseline.
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The 3080 Ti pulls ahead at 160W or so, but it definitely underperforms given how much bigger the core is than the 3080 core. I'm only getting 15K in TS GPU because I'm hitting the card's current limit (not the same as the power limit!), which is an unreported throttle in monitoring tools. Best 3080 score is 15077 at 1986 average core clock: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/40731969 Best 3080 Ti score is 15645 at 1866 average core clock (this is similar to my reported core clocks): https://www.3dmark.com/spy/32697164 I assume both are at 200W. The Ti is only 3.7% faster, which is pretty bad for a 22% bigger core. I considered raising my card's current limit, but since I'm already struggling with GPU power draw with the 9900K I haven't and don't plan to.
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This is the best I can do with my current limit issues. 43 points short of the 3080 record. I can't touch the 3080 Ti record due to the BGA systems having much better power delivery: Things I have learned: Classic Throttlestop fixes all low perf at low utilization issues. CPU would improperly downclock, then GPU would downclock even more severely. This even impacted the 6600K. RTX 3060 was fine, but RTX 3080 Ti was not. It's now no longer necessary to force a VF point in Afterburner, so now the card can properly idle without crippling performance Card stability: +195 stable full voltage range +210 stable at < 0.9V +225 stable at <0.8V Card spends most of it's time here under heavy load at default TDP +270 benchable ~0.85V Lots of artifacts, but it chugs along ThrottleStop also MOSTLY fixes crash at idle/light load issues if I force high performance. Crashes are a full system lockup C-state control in BIOS and TS does not work, so I don't have a means to fully prevent idle clock drop I will try borrowing another CPU from someone at work This CPU was listed as not working for $60 on ebay System fails to boot 50% of the time This is a bit annoying since I don't have a power button. I need to pull the power cord and replug to reboot Interestingly, the ThrottleStop benchmark is a great stability test. It'd give me crashes at higher voltage than anything else TS benchmark stability: 4.2GHz -90mV 4.3GHz -85mV 4.4GHz -85mV 4.5GHz -85mV 4.6GHz -75mV 5.0GHz -55mV I could subtract another 35mV for anything other than the TS benchmark CPU or GPU current spikes could trigger a lockup: Limiting CPU clocks helps stability Reducing CPU current limit would cause windows to fail to boot, so I could not attempt this 3D workload on 3080Ti could trigger a lockup if TDP is limit raised, but not if it wasn't Still can get idle lockup My plan is to make this a janky SFF desktop, but the occasional idle crashes are a problem for that. The 6600K doesn't crash, but that is a far slower CPU than the 9900K.
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The km vapor chamber is a very intersting idea. I didn't know it was gpu-only, so if the heat pipes are moved it would fit. I worry about the champer expanding and getting ruined when replacing the heat pies though. I never see any EC panic, but I am running a 3080 Ti with it's own set of problems. When the card has a low 3D load it's performance craters due to some internal throttling. Card also has an OCP limit that's effectively around 200W. mxm 3080 power delivery is too weak for me to go about raising it, but this means I can't match the 3080 Ti BGA setups. I'll drop the power limit back down for normal use so this isn't a big deal. 9900K is giving me a lot of hardlock problems too at low load, but I got it for $65 so it's hard to complain. I managed to get a 8700K for free that will show up in a week. Hopefully it behaves better.
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I'm currently using 775 series heatsinks as the baseline for mine. They stick out a little, but otherwise fit. I don't actually have a whole system. I got a motherboard for $25 and a bottom case for $22.
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So I got a 9900K: I'm having lots of issues with it crashing when transitioning from idle to load. If I have it loaded it overclocks well and I can undervolt a lot. Playing around with fixed voltage now to see if I can get it to stop crashing for things like web browsers. With the 6600K pushing the GPU I almost got 15K. I haven't pushed the GPU with the 9900K yet since I'm trying to figure out the stability issues:
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Fixed the VRAM clocking. I had a few incorrect resistor values for one of the added VRAM chips. Now runs 17.6GHz+ like with the 3060 core. Getting close to beating the best 3080 scores. The throttling is hurting me though and it increased a little with the higher VRAM clocks. My core clocks are similar to the best 3080 Ti scores, but they beat me by 800 points. Maybe these really are HC18 VRAM chips. I'll swap the rest over and find out.
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So I've gotten a bit of improvement: The biggest help was improving the GPU supply voltage on the motherboard. I direct soldered the cable on one end, shortened the cable, and also doubled the motherboard GPU power switch FETs. This efficiency improvement let me increase the GPU voltage from 843mV to 875mV prior to the invisible throttling engaging. This plus added capacitors also let me increase VRAM clocks by 200MHz.
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It didn't work, but I also tried it in an older desktop. These 30 series cards are really picky and it may have just hated the old Zen+ system. I also tried it in an M2 adapter to a full pci-e slot on a Zen4 system, but it wouldn't even power on. I couldn't fogure out what signal was missing. Also 30 series is rejected by the P150EM. 20 series works though.