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Under Advanced Scaling factors, it allows you to enter a custom scaling factor between 100 and 500% but says (not recommended). Do you stick with the preset scaling factors of 125% or 150% to keep it "even" vs. say 135%? Is the custom scaling factor "not recommended" because it causes noticeably more overhead and/or would a custom scaling factor have more noticeable visual glitches or lack of sharpness/etc.? I've been using a 30" screen at 2560 x 1600 (101.4 pixels perinch). I'm thinking of trying a 32" at 3840 x 2160 (137.68 pixels per inch) So I think the default 125% or 150% will make everything either slightly larger or slightly smaller than I'm used to.

I've been sticking with standard definition screens because a long time ago there were some scaling issues with various things in windows where some checkboxes would sometimes appear really tiny, or sometimes a menu icon or popup window, etc. would be really tiny when using a scaling factor for a high resolution screen. Do you run into any scaling problems in 2022 with windows 10 and an uhd monitor resolution?

Wondering if the colors on the U3223qe 4k 32" display would be better than the U3023E. The 30" is a nice monitor, but the colors aren't nearly as good as previous generation 30" dell monitors, so I'm looking for something with better color. I wonder how similar or different the color would be between the 2560x1600 30" and the uhd 32" panels? (anyone know what the panels are in the current offering?) The two current Premier Color monitors are $4,000 now so a bit out of reach 😞

Got the U3023E as an upgrade. I like the ultra-slim bezel a lot, and no ghosting on the newer model, but color quality and vignetting have both suffered badly, so in that regard I have mixed feelings. Impressions side by side: Good: U3023E has nice slim bezel U3023E is slightly easier to read small type on for long hours; not sure how to define this one but the 3014 stressed my eyes a bit more than the 3011 before it. U3023E doesn't have the "ghosting" as you scroll that was a problem of the U3014. (unless you set the U3023E to fast response which for some reason creates the weird ghosting similar to what the U3014 had) Bad: U3023E has vignetting, especially noticeable on .5" on the bottom, .25" on both sides, and slightly in the upper left and right corners. The bottom vignette or shadow is bad, almost like a shadow effect, if you look at a white square sized to 2560x1600 full screen. Practically speaking though, I have the windows task bar on the bottom of my screen and menu bars on the right and left, so no issue for my typical usage. The only task it would be really bad for would be for a full screen photo view if you were for example using a secondary monitor for all menus - that would be a no-go due to the vignetting. For normal use though, it should be acceptable. Blue green colors aren't as nice or vibrant on the U3023E as on the 3014. This is my only real disappointment with the U3023E as it's nice to upgrade to a monitor that has a better image than the one you upgraded from. I'm a little disappointed that colors aren't as good on the new monitor, unless I can find a setting to tweak to get more vibrant blue and green. The blue greens just aren't quite as vibrant on the new monitor, maybe 90% as good for water and subtle blue green skies. Blues shift more towards navy and less towards green which in general is worse. Interestingly the new U3023E comes with brightness and contrast set to 75 as the default value each. The previous had values set to 50 as the default. 50 on the U3014 is similar to 75 on the U3023E for brightness. Overall both are nice. I like the 16:10 format for a large monitor quite a bit still so I'm really glad Dell still makes a 30" 16:10. I'm a little disappointed though if I can't find a way to make blue greens just a touch more vibrant on the new U3023E to match the color rendering of the U3014.

Thanks very much for the details!

How does the image quality and color quality compare between a Dell U3023E and a Dell U3014? Wondering if it's worth upgrading.

I wasn't sure if I was understanding correctly. So the interposer isn't an adapter that can be installed and removed then without extra parts (that are between the motherboard and camm module or different parts (there or removed) between the motherboard and interposer?) A good heads up as I hadn't though to think of that. Was just thinking the interposer would mimic the camm module to the motherboard.

If you get the model with the so-dimm interposer now, can you install a camm module instead of the so-dimm interposer at some point in the future, or are you locked to the so-dimm interposer forever in that sysstem? Are extra parts needed other than a camm module if you wanted to change from the so-dimm memory module+interposer to camm memory module at some point in the future? (I went with so-dimm right now because it was the only ECC option)

Every time I look at the bios I find myself wondering, what does it mean on the Overview page where it says: Maximum Clock Speed: 4.40 Ghz Minimum Clock Speed: 0.80 Ghz for a CPU that is supposed to be max 5.0 Ghz according to intel: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/228439/intel-core-i912950hx-processor-30m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz/specifications.html I don't see the 4.40 Ghz figure anywhere on the Intel or Dell site. Is that to do with laptop thermal balance, or ? Is this limiting the performance of the 12950 HX CPU?

Does the Intel Multi-Key Total Memory Encryption protect against any software-based bad-things real-world? Is there noticeable overhead to enabling it? (I notice it's disabled by default on a new dell - I wonder why?) Or is it really only to protect against people stealing a machine and reading the physical memory with physical access? Is a cold boot attack a worry with a stolen laptop only if it's stolen when the machine is powered on?

The tab that broke on mine was on the front. It was very, very tight to get off the first time. I used the "large" plastic pry tool that was in a kit to remove an iphone 5 screen back in the day - about 1.25" wide flat with a slight upcurve on the edge. I went from the smartcard around the corner and then left across the front, but was having trouble with it closing on the right side as I went over towards the left, so I used a business card edge to hold it open as I pried further. Not sure if my technique was bad; I did it the same way on the previous generation precision with no issue, but that one wasn't on quite as tight. I'm not wild about the way the back cover is attached having to pry it off, but it looks great when it's on and hopefully I don't open it that often I suppose. What temp does your SSD run in the main slot of your Precision 7770? Samsung 980 Pro idle reports 50C and says "High" in magician even though the arrow is pointed at the top center of the circle. I did a benchmark all with magician which brought the temp up to 58C which said "Too High" on the meter although it was still in the blue/purple not the red range of the graph. Performance was 6995 sequential read, 5182 sequential read, 405,517 random iops read, 309,814 random iops write. My other precision with a 980 pro runs it idle at under 40C so not sure what to think of the 7770 running it at 50+ C. Is this OK for the samsung 980 pro? It's running at 52C now idle 5 minutes after the benchmark all. Doh - Intel system drivers make a big difference when idle -- I wanted to check that drive was genuine before taking the time to do reinstall, but intel driver makes a huge difference for thermal when system is idle now that all are installed. Samsung 980 pro drive in main slot now running at 44C "Normal" when idle Still gets up to 58C when doing a benchmark all, and samsung reports "Too High". Not sure if that is ok or not, or normal after doing the samsung benchmark all ?

I also disable the option by default when I get a new dell laptop, and apply the bios updates manually with no issue. I prefer to install the bios updates when I don't have pressing work, just in case something goes wrong, and not during storms or when power is fluctuating, etc.

It's just one of the small black plastic teeth on the edge of the bottom chasis panel. Probably ok to just live with it, but I found it a bit of a sinking feeling to carefully open a brand new laptop and have a small piece of black plastic left on the desk. It still seems to close fine without the one tab as long as others don't break off, and the 6 screws hold everything in place fine.

First time opening the chasis, very very carefully, and one of the black teeth that holds it on broke off. Very small black plastic piece. I guess it's ok without that as it fits very tightly still, but don't like the fact that a small piece broke off already on a brand new several thousand dollar machine.

To maximize SSD life, how much free space should be left on the ssd now? Does it matter if it is free space on a partition, or unpartitioned space?

Interesting - had not realized that was a connection option. Interesting. I suppose with the door if you had two identical precisions, you could bring only the SSD back and forth to work or when traveling between two locations on a plane instead of the entire laptop, but I'd worry about the fragility of removing and inserting the SSD every day or damaging it while out of the laptop. I thought about having multiple SSDs for editing, especially when they were so expensive that 2 TB was max and 1 TB was affordable, but now pricing is coming down, I worry more about damage removing and inserting them many times.

Is there any security advantage to keeping data on a separate SSD from the operating system? With software bitlocker encryption. SSD1 OS partition (bitlocker, unlocked using tpm) Data partition (bitlocker, auto-unlocked by os) vs SSD1 OS partition (bitlocker, unlocked using tpm) SSD2 Data partition (bitlocker, auto-unlocked by os)

What's the largest you might need a windows 10 pro or windows 11 partition to be? (or a windows 10 partition that might be upgraded to windows 11 in a year or two) To make it easy to restore the OS partition in case of issue, I'm planning to keep OS and data on two separate partitions. Just thinking on how much free space to leave for the windows 10 partition on the SSD so I don't regret making it too small, especially if I upgrade to windows 11 in a year.

How are people using the SSD door? Are you using the slot under the door for an ssd that holds video files or some such where it's fast to swap in and out the ssd vs. moving files digitally? Are you swapping OS drives so frequently that the door is handy?

In Windows 10 task manager, if your cpu has 8 p cores with hyperthreading and 8 e cores, can you tell which is which in windows task manager? Seeing the 24 square cpu graphs, I'm curious which are which.

Is there a difference in SSD performance between NVME slots?

Thanks! Really enjoyed the side by side comparison in this one.

I've seen a high of 4.76 ghz now. Impressed, but I'd like to see task manager report 5.0 ghz and am still wondering what that value in bios of max 4.4 ghz means ??? (is it a report of current status or a setting, and a setting of what?)

For what it's worth, I really, really like the physical chassis style of the 7770. I've had it for two days now, and it's my favorite look of the 7xxx series. It sounds silly, but it's one of those things that is styled nice enough that it's a pleasure just looking at it and something you are proud to own. Like a porsche. The subtle curves on the back sides. The triple vents and the way they are placed between the two beautiful strong hinges. The subtle curve of the back panel and the display. All together, very very nice piece of hardware.

Thanks! Trying to decide whether to wait for the 990s or setup with 980s. Was curious if the floodgates on orders would open on a specific date, or if Samsung hasn't started shipping them to retailers yet. Much appreciated the details. Tempted to setup with 980s but then of course the 990s will come out the very next day :P