Tenoroon

After some discussion with Northwest Repair, he will be sending the 2080s back without repair. He is struggling to find schematics for the thing and was having trouble probing around on the back of the card due to how my adapter is. I don't blame him for anything at all as he always told me he couldn't guarantee it would get fixed. He did tell me he noticed that the card is missing 3.3v going into the phase controller and that something is lowering it to 0.73 volts. All I can think of to do now is to teach myself how to fix this card... I want it working, and the sooner it gets fixed the better 🙂

Thanks for the mention. I should probably mention that the link will only last 30 days. I've gotten many requests for the Dsanke BIOSes so I might talk to a buddy of mine and see if he'll let me host a small sharex server with all of the BIOS files for ease of access for the people on here. On the other hand, I finally sent in my dead 2080S in for repair. I really hope it's not a dead core. If it's not the phase controller or the VRAM that went out, I'm afraid there's a good chance it's the core, especially due to the artifacting it created right before death. Alongside the repair, I might be able to provide some information about that MXM to PCIE adapter I got. I'm letting the guy who is repairing the card keep the adapter, but we might be able to figure out how it works depending on what he says. The adapter was always really goofy, so I hope it doesn't cause any roadblocks for the repair.

Try doing what SSJ mentioned, NVCleanInstall can be a bit weird sometimes. Also, for the microcode, do you know what kind of BIOS the laptop has? I know it's a Prema BIOS but is it an Insyde or Phoenix branded one?

My knowledge isn't as great as you think. I may be a few steps ahead, but that's all. I can try to help though, it benefits both of us. Now, may I ask, what graphics card are you trying to get working?

Are you parting it out piece by piece or are you just selling the CPU, GPU, and then the laptop as a barebones? If you're selling the laptop as a barebones chassis, I may be a bit interested.

I recently recommended a friend an RM750e and installed it for him (his old seasonic unit blew up and killed itself and they denied warranty). Corsair is pretty smart about the PCIe cable situation. I was confused at first when I read VGA/CPU on the power supply but then realized that they basically give you a bunch of CPU or PCIe power options depending on which you need as they use the same connector on the power supply side. Need more PCIe power? You have a bunch of connectors. Need more CPU power for some goofy HEDT board? You can switch out accordingly. My mind was kind of blown over this. It's so simple but so smart, it allows for LOTS of flexibility. Once I move over to a desktop, I will probably use a Corsair power supply. They seem to be built well, the warranty is really good, and they seem very confident in their products.

Yeah, it's pretty old. I'm pretty sure I got it for Christmas of 2017 but it may have been my birthday in February of 2018, I can't remember for sure. There's a Flare 2 that's about a year old. You might be mixing that up with the original Flare.

"If you're looking to play indie games that have fewer demanding graphics, we'd recommend going with something like an Nvidia Geforce RTX 3070 or a Radeon RX 6900XT." They just want the unknowing consumer to CONSUME!!! I'm willing to bet my life that most Indie games will run great on a Sandy Bridge system with a Maxwell GPU. There is no need for an RTX 3070 and even a 6900XT for those kinds of games! It kills me that they are misleading people this hard!! Hell, you could probably buy/build an entire system just to play Indie games cheaper than the cost of a 3070 or 6900XT itself.

I used one from about 2017 to last year. It was pretty mediocre, it got the job done, but there wasn't anything special in my use case. I would say the RGB looks pretty nice, but I usually run my keyboards a static white so I never really cared how good the RGB was. The pause/skip function was nice and the volume scroller was positioned well. I cleaned it regularly and besides one of the stands on the backing breaking, it held up well. My only gripe with it was that it was a bit big and that the keys got a bit shiny quicker than I would have liked, but besides those two problems, it was a pretty good keyboard in my opinion.

If you have some time, try taking the entire VRM heatsink off and aiming a fan on the FETs. I'd assume that board uses some high quality FETs and that in reality, no heatsink should be needed. I'm thinking that maybe the heatsink is trapping heat, doing more harm than good. It definitely isn't built for cooling well as the only fins on the heatsink are on the sides.

@electrosoftIt just popped into my head, but do you still own your dummy 1060 MXM?

What's great is there's no vBios modding required, you just need to change some of the strap resistors on the card to allow for more memory or memory of different brands.

I have family that both do and used to do photography for a living. They always tell me that it's very difficult, but rewarding once it works out. Just keep trying until you are completely exhausted. The worst scenario from your predicament is that you'll know how to take pictures that you deem great, which in my opinion, is the beauty of photography.

I haven't seen anything for the 1080's, but I know people who have doubled the VRAM of 3070's on the NH55 and the MXM 2080 Super.

Just out of curiosity @Mr. Fox, I remember you made a chart for various versions of Windows 10 describing the performance in certain benchmarks (I think) for each version. Am I recalling things correctly or have you never made such thing? If you did make something like that, could you send it? I could have sworn I've seen a picture of it but I can't find it.

The 3080 isn't supported UNLESS you have a Prema BIOS or the Dsanke BIOS. The computer won't boot with the stock BIOS and a 30 series card. You should get a BIOS programmer and flash the BIOS on there manually. There are many tutorials online of how to go about doing that. As for that fan cable, it is meant for the non-existent 4th fan for the CPU on the TM models. I believe it uses a lower voltage than the regular CPU fan header, so don't plug anything into it.

So my brothers motherboard came in today. I bought it used as quality B660m boards are still too pricey for our tastes. I purchased an MSI MAG B660m Mortar for under $100.00 USD. The seller had multiple and stated that none of them had any physical damage. When the board arrived this evening, the board was in good condition, but the 4th DIMM had one of the RAM tabs completely broken off. What's annoying is that the other tab is one of those friction tabs (doesn't seat into the side of the RAM stick) and the 4th slot is needed for proper dual channel. I plan on getting a partial refund as this damage was NOT stated at all in the listing, but I just wanted to ask if the RAM should still seat alright even without this retention tab.

Great video for all to watch, it's lengthy, but a worthwhile watch.

I am about to assemble my brothers build. I'm just waiting on the RX 6600 to arrive. (People are sleeping on these, you can get them used for under 150 USD which is quite a steal for a decent 1080p gaming card.) My brother sadly made the switch to Win11 (unwillingly, he delayed the update but he said one day his laptop just started updating to 11 without his choice...) and would prefer to stay on it. It seems to be a minefield with these custom Win11 ISOs in terms of how safe and effective they actually are. I am looking for a custom installation that keeps most of the functionality of the GUI intact, but strips out a lot of the useless background crap and has been proven to not be safe. Would any of you guys know a specific ISO that would fulfill my needs?

Yeah, something I've noticed is that a lot Gigabyte 30 series GPUs and RX 480s and 580s are in for repairs for either the PCIe lanes being smashed under the weight of the card or for dead memory on the bottom of the card nearest to the PCIe lanes. I've never been a big fan of Gigabytes GPUs as they tend to be big, bulky, and at the lower end, designed weird. (Why the hell does an RX 6600, a roughly 130 watt card, need a cooler that is almost twice the length of the PCB with three fans?) I've also noticed a lot PNY cards needing general repairs, but I think that's because PNY doesn't really ever honor their "warranty" sadly...

I should've looked over the article before posting. Yeah, not a big fan of Graphically Challenged either. MLID has gained my trust from being correct (mostly). He usually works pretty fast to leak before others and I think the fact he hasn't leaked any important Nvidia stuff yet says a lot about these other "leaks"... I won't totally recant my statements made from above (especially the 4060ti portion, I don't think Nvidia can fill the hole that they've dug.) but I now am taking this information with a bigger grain of salt.

Good 'ole Jensen, trying to force obsolescence of the 4060ti, most likely due to the abysmal sales. He doesn't even have the good in him to cut the price either, he's just giving the middle finger to the few people who purchased a 4060ti... I think it would be dumb of ngreedia to make the 4070 Super with the 103 die. If the performance is to be believed, whats the point of spending more money on a bigger die if the performance is only going to be 5% higher than the Ti? I understand the 4070ti has almost the full 104 die unlocked, but its missing some cache. Surely by adding the remaining cache and clocking it a bit higher it would beat the 4070ti by about 5%.

You'd hate my 1080. This thing clocks pretty well under low voltages, but it screams under load. You can still hear it even when the fans are maxed out with Fn+1. It hates me lol.

Yeah, as @Mr. Foxsaid, it's a perfect example of form over function. To add insult to injury, it uses liquid metal, which is usually a TERRIBLE idea for GPUs. God forbid even the smallest ball of LM spills under the substrate. If that ever happens, the core is usually done for and the GPU is essentially totaled.

What size thermal pads should I get to increase the mounting pressure on my CPU. I took apart my DM today and realized how poor the contact was. I took off the VRM thermal pads and the thermal paste spread was much better. I've noticed my CPU temps are a bit toasty and think that increasing the mounting pressure may help a bit.