Tenoroon

So my brothers motherboard came in today. I bought it used as quality B660m boards are still too pricey for our tastes. I purchased an MSI MAG B660m Mortar for under $100.00 USD. The seller had multiple and stated that none of them had any physical damage. When the board arrived this evening, the board was in good condition, but the 4th DIMM had one of the RAM tabs completely broken off. What's annoying is that the other tab is one of those friction tabs (doesn't seat into the side of the RAM stick) and the 4th slot is needed for proper dual channel. I plan on getting a partial refund as this damage was NOT stated at all in the listing, but I just wanted to ask if the RAM should still seat alright even without this retention tab.

Great video for all to watch, it's lengthy, but a worthwhile watch.

I am about to assemble my brothers build. I'm just waiting on the RX 6600 to arrive. (People are sleeping on these, you can get them used for under 150 USD which is quite a steal for a decent 1080p gaming card.) My brother sadly made the switch to Win11 (unwillingly, he delayed the update but he said one day his laptop just started updating to 11 without his choice...) and would prefer to stay on it. It seems to be a minefield with these custom Win11 ISOs in terms of how safe and effective they actually are. I am looking for a custom installation that keeps most of the functionality of the GUI intact, but strips out a lot of the useless background crap and has been proven to not be safe. Would any of you guys know a specific ISO that would fulfill my needs?

Yeah, something I've noticed is that a lot Gigabyte 30 series GPUs and RX 480s and 580s are in for repairs for either the PCIe lanes being smashed under the weight of the card or for dead memory on the bottom of the card nearest to the PCIe lanes. I've never been a big fan of Gigabytes GPUs as they tend to be big, bulky, and at the lower end, designed weird. (Why the hell does an RX 6600, a roughly 130 watt card, need a cooler that is almost twice the length of the PCB with three fans?) I've also noticed a lot PNY cards needing general repairs, but I think that's because PNY doesn't really ever honor their "warranty" sadly...

I should've looked over the article before posting. Yeah, not a big fan of Graphically Challenged either. MLID has gained my trust from being correct (mostly). He usually works pretty fast to leak before others and I think the fact he hasn't leaked any important Nvidia stuff yet says a lot about these other "leaks"... I won't totally recant my statements made from above (especially the 4060ti portion, I don't think Nvidia can fill the hole that they've dug.) but I now am taking this information with a bigger grain of salt.

Good 'ole Jensen, trying to force obsolescence of the 4060ti, most likely due to the abysmal sales. He doesn't even have the good in him to cut the price either, he's just giving the middle finger to the few people who purchased a 4060ti... I think it would be dumb of ngreedia to make the 4070 Super with the 103 die. If the performance is to be believed, whats the point of spending more money on a bigger die if the performance is only going to be 5% higher than the Ti? I understand the 4070ti has almost the full 104 die unlocked, but its missing some cache. Surely by adding the remaining cache and clocking it a bit higher it would beat the 4070ti by about 5%.

You'd hate my 1080. This thing clocks pretty well under low voltages, but it screams under load. You can still hear it even when the fans are maxed out with Fn+1. It hates me lol.

Yeah, as @Mr. Foxsaid, it's a perfect example of form over function. To add insult to injury, it uses liquid metal, which is usually a TERRIBLE idea for GPUs. God forbid even the smallest ball of LM spills under the substrate. If that ever happens, the core is usually done for and the GPU is essentially totaled.

What size thermal pads should I get to increase the mounting pressure on my CPU. I took apart my DM today and realized how poor the contact was. I took off the VRM thermal pads and the thermal paste spread was much better. I've noticed my CPU temps are a bit toasty and think that increasing the mounting pressure may help a bit.

Lightning is bad, sorry about that. Laptop did POST after removal and it worked great, just without sound. One of the jacks doesn't have the plastic casing around it. It still works, it's just not the most secure.

That's something I couldn't answer but intuition says normal drivers will work. The P5200 is Pascal so I can't see why normal drivers won't work.

Should be. I've seen listings for heatsinks designed around the MSI P5200 for the TM, so I would believe any P5200 would work.

I'll take mine out today and see if everything still works alright.

No, my DM is almost unusable (no keyboard, damaged ribbon connectors etc). I'm only keeping it around for once I get to fabricating a better cooler for the 1070. I have no plans to use it as an actual laptop as I have my TM and my G14. If the sound board only strips away the speakers and use of headphone jacks, that's good with me as long as the laptop still turns on.

While I'd love to take you up on the offer, the goal is to get the build under 500 USD so that he can sell his GF65 and minimize the cost of anything else that the GF65 might not cover. The 12100 is about 90 USD right now and a used RX 6600 is about 160 USD right now.

If you're willing to pay for shipping, I could rip the board from my DM. I would assume the laptop will still function if there's no board.

On the topic of new builds, does anyone have any unused D4 sticks? I'm going to help my brother build a budget SFF desktop to replace his terrible MSI GF65 that despite all measures taken, won't stop boiling... My goal is a cheap B660 board that doesn't entirely suck, an i3 12100f, some decent D4 sticks, my EVGA 750w PSU that I don't use very often and a used RX 6600 all inside of a SAMA IM01. While the i3 might be a bit weaker than his 10750h on paper, that thing is always at 100C and throttling to all hell. I think any high clocking quadcore would smother it in benchmarks and perform a bit better in games.

Currently fixing up an old CF-31 and I need a new LCD cable for it. The only one I can find is one for $100 on the Bob Johnson website and that is WAY too much.

Heard a friend talk about a game called Neon White. I looked into it and ended up purchasing it. Super fun game, I don't like the story at all though, it's quite gaudy. The best way to describe the gameplay is that it has a similar feel to a Surf map on Counter Strike. You're essentially running/floating around and must have precise movement and quick thinking in order to have a competitive compeletion time for the levels. The music is also pretty good too. All of it has been created by Machine Girl and fits with the gameplay extremely well. If you look at the OST's comments on Youtube, you'll see a lot of, "I'm glad the new Machine Girl album came with game too!"

Alright, everything is making more sense now. The 2080 Super has problems working in the P870TM not because of any power problems, but because the 2080 Super is too powerful lol. The specific MOSFETs used on the Turing MXM cards get a bit toastier than the MOSFETs used on the Pascal cards. VIktorV is correct about the laptop doing an emergency shutdown because of the MOSFETs overheating. I was told the easier solution to this problem that doesn't require me to replace the MOSFETs is by adding a copper shim onto the heatsink where the MOSFETs are located when the card is screwed down. This is to decrease the temperatures of the MOSFETs allowing them to run more efficiently and not overheat and shut down the laptop.

I've been needing to get rid of my Clevo 1080 as I plan on sending in the 2080S here soon. Would you be able to use a DM2/3 heatsink in your frankenstein or would you need to do some more modding? (besides finding 12v for the 8 pin power connector)

From what I remember, the P7xx and P8xx series don't have wiring or any power input to the iGPU, rendering it impossible to use the iGPU.

That's its job; and it's done damn well. 😄

I know this may not be the best place to ask, but I was reading the old P870TM-R thread on the archive, and heard that the vapor chamber needs to be modified to get the Turing cards to fit right. What exactly needs to be cut in order to get them to fit? I have a feeling that some of the VRAM plate needs to be dremelled away, but I might be entirely wrong. Does anyone have any pictures saved anywhere or remember the rough area that I would need to cut?