*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[electrosoft]

In regards to voltages and 5090s, in the same vein as I was asking awhile ago here about subjecting naturally lower voltage cards to forced, higher voltages via EVC2 or now with the XOC. There is a reason cards are coming off the fab binned at various voltages and qualities:

 

 

 

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9800X3D vs 265k at all thee resolutions (1080p, 1440p, 2160p)

 

Pay particular attention to the 1% and .1% across all the results:

 

 

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On 12/8/2025 at 9:57 PM, tps3443 said:

Anyone using Liquid Metal needs to try some of the Supercool Liquid Metal. It has changed my mindset completely. The stuff just doesn’t degrade like other Liquid Metal’s do. 
 

It doesn’t perform quite as good as Kryonaut Extreme, but longevity is the best I have ever seen with Liquid Metal. And I will easily take the +2c worse temps for better longevity. This is one of the main reasons I have not hard lined my 5090. Radiator Fan speed really doesn’t matter if your delta sucks. And so far I have held 8c@400 watts and 12c@600 watts. 
 

This is +565@935mv the fans are all turning 1300rpm which results in a 38c GPU temps, with 30c water. 
 

It has already been 3 months since I applied the Liquid Metal. 
 

I have re-pasted Liquid Metal so many times, and degraded Liquid Metal so many times. This stuff is really a miracle TIM! I also re-pasted my Acer Predator 18” 4090 laptop with it too. Excellent LM. It’s like the mix is different on this LM, and drying out or any reaction from gallium and air is slowed or doesn’t happen at all. I’ll be curious to see what 6 months looks like. But typically for me at 3 months mark any other Liquid Metal would already be degraded and a loss in temps or instability is present at the previous overclocks. 
 

 

 

 

Is there a review out on this stuff comparing it to other pastes along with other LMs and PTM?

 

 

[Talon]

21 hours ago, electrosoft said:

In regards to voltages and 5090s, in the same vein as I was asking awhile ago here about subjecting naturally lower voltage cards to forced, higher voltages via EVC2 or now with the XOC. There is a reason cards are coming off the fab binned at various voltages and qualities:

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

9800X3D vs 265k at all thee resolutions (1080p, 1440p, 2160p)

 

Pay particular attention to the 1% and .1% across all the results:

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Is there a review out on this stuff comparing it to other pastes along with other LMs and PTM?

 

 

 

75ns latency on 265K LMAO. GTFO. Garbage. 

 

60-63ns is a tuned Arrow Lake 265K. Below that is amazing tuning with lottery IMC. But 75ns and that terrible bandwidth, LMAO, straight garbage. 

 

Literally tuned the TREFI to 65535 and left the 265K stupid low. Why the F would you do that other than attempting to misrepresent performance? 

 

Also heavily agree on the RTX 5090 voltages. It's amazing how good my Surpim SOC clocks with it's default 1.15-1.12v.

[Reciever]

So I am at a bit of an impasse. Just been working 14 hour days this past month all the way up to my vacation (which was almost canceled lol). I don't like when people do this to me but here I am about to do the same. 

 

I am hoping to build a water loop for my Red Devil 7900 XTX, it's been 15 years since my last Waterloop not sure where to buy these things anymore. 

 

I'd like to get the 1080mm UT45/60 and alpha core block just not sure about the rest. 

 

Does the UT45/60 have mounting points for res and pump? Does it need a kit for that sort of thing? As payment for troubling you all I'll take plenty of pictures of the build log. 

 

I am based in the US, Texas, 76001

 

I know @Mr. Fox gave me some good info before I still have it favorited. I'd like to get everything purchased by tonight if possible. 

 

Thanks in advance everyone

[electrosoft]

5 hours ago, Talon said:

 

75ns latency on 265K LMAO. GTFO. Garbage. 

 

60-63ns is a tuned Arrow Lake 265K. Below that is amazing tuning with lottery IMC. But 75ns and that terrible bandwidth, LMAO, straight garbage. 

 

Literally tuned the TREFI to 65535 and left the 265K stupid low. Why the F would you do that other than attempting to misrepresent performance? 

 

Also heavily agree on the RTX 5090 voltages. It's amazing how good my Surpim SOC clocks with it's default 1.15-1.12v.

 

Yeah, that's the thing. Those timings are trash still, BUT even with them the 265k has better overall 1% and .1%. First thing I did was think, "tuned properly, how much even better will the lows be?" Clearly a base X3D owner and that's ok but you have to give equal love.

 

As for Voltages and 5090, more fuel for the higher voltage fire being a factor:

 

 

I think that with the release more of the Matrix vBIOS than the XOC, we're really seeing even air cooled cards pulling ahead with higher voltage from factory.

 

The argument that lower voltage cards are more efficient while higher voltage cards have more OC capability has merit.

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Reciever said:

So I am at a bit of an impasse. Just been working 14 hour days this past month all the way up to my vacation (which was almost canceled lol). I don't like when people do this to me but here I am about to do the same. 

 

I am hoping to build a water loop for my Red Devil 7900 XTX, it's been 15 years since my last Waterloop not sure where to buy these things anymore. 

 

I'd like to get the 1080mm UT45/60 and alpha core block just not sure about the rest. 

 

Does the UT45/60 have mounting points for res and pump? Does it need a kit for that sort of thing? As payment for troubling you all I'll take plenty of pictures of the build log. 

 

I am based in the US, Texas, 76001

 

I know @Mr. Fox gave me some good info before I still have it favorited. I'd like to get everything purchased by tonight if possible. 

 

Thanks in advance everyone

 

Between @Mr. Fox , @tps3443 and @Raiderman, you're in good hands @Reciever!

[Papusan]

 

Hmmm. QC cost money. But what with RMA?  

 

Updating the BIOS on some MSI motherboards can leave the screen blank, and to fix this you'll have to buy a new graphics card.

In recent days, we've seen a problem that has unsettled more than one MSI motherboard user:

 

But the warning hints at something deeper. Current BIOS versions are changing at a very rapid pace because new generations of CPUs require constant adjustments . This means that a simple update can affect internal components we never thought could fail, such as how the UEFI itself generates video output.

And when access to the BIOS depends on your GPU "understanding" what the BIOS is trying to display, the risk becomes real—so real, in fact, that ASK has had to issue a general warning. Worse still, the uncertainty is growing. ASK hasn't revealed which models are affected, whether motherboards or graphics cards; the warning is general. There's no further information, which suggests the problem is escalating rapidly and affecting more users than we realize.

 

We're awaiting a statement from MSI regarding this, as we've already seen issues with AGESA 1.2.8.0 , and we don't know if this is related again after removing the BIOS from their download. It could be an AMD issue with the Ryzen 7000 and 9000 series and their firmware for older graphics cards, but if so, which platforms, sockets, and chipsets are affected? Too many questions, no answers , but we'll be keeping an eye out for any statements or open investigations into this matter.

[Mr. Fox]

9 hours ago, Reciever said:

Does the UT45/60 have mounting points for res and pump? Does it need a kit for that sort of thing? As payment for troubling you all I'll take plenty of pictures of the build log. 

 

I am based in the US, Texas, 76001

 

I know @Mr. Fox gave me some good info before I still have it favorited. I'd like to get everything purchased by tonight if possible. 

 

Thanks in advance everyone

If you purchase the housing it does but the radiator itself does not. Be sure you buy the right housing. The UT60 radiator will not fit a UT45 housing.

 

Sorry I did not see the posted question earlier.

---

It is interesting how little difference there is between 8000/8200/8400 on Ryzen. Very close to none.

And, only minor improvements from tighter timings. Again, very close to nothing. The value of the more expensive Apex motherboard starts to grow very dim.

[Reciever]

2 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

If you purchase the housing it does but the radiator itself does not. Be sure you buy the right housing. The UT60 radiator will not fit a UT45 housing.

 

Sorry I did not see the posted question earlier.

---

It is interesting how little difference there is between 8000/8200/8400 on Ryzen. Very close to none.

 

This is what I am looking at for the moment.

Looks like I wont be able to get in to me quite some time though...

[Mr. Fox]

2 hours ago, Reciever said:

 

This is what I am looking at for the moment.

Looks like I wont be able to get in to me quite some time though...

Nice! That's going to really be awesome. You're much safer going that route than ordering it from a vendor outside of the US because of how incompetent the shippers are (or dishonest creeps) when it comes to grossly overcalculating tariffs. So many horror stories of victims being charged 2 or 3 times more than the actual tariff. There will be a special place in hell for the folks that do that. I believe it is intentional. but it could just be incompetence. You know they are not giving the "extra" money collected to the government, they are just padding their wallets with the excess collected "by accident" from consumers victims. 

 

This is pretty dang impressive.

 

 

[Reciever]

15 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Nice! That's going to really be awesome. You're much safer going that route than ordering it from a vendor outside of the US because of how incompetent the shippers are (or dishonest creeps) when it comes to grossly overcalculating tariffs. So many horror stories of victims being charge 2 or 3 times more than the actual tariff. There will be a special place in hell for the folks that do that. I believe it is intentional. but it could just be incompetence.

 

I always get confused on the tubing, I know I want flexible tubing. 

What fittings and tubes should I go with?

I found most of the same things on Amazon so it should arrive while I am on vacation. I'll see if I can find what I need on Amazon so its just one big order. 

Sold my second tower tonight so most of this is bankrolled by that :) I did buy 2x 2697A v4's for my last tower (currently on 2650 V4's and also just got my Xeon Gold 6248's for the server I am building to replace the Dell's that I got fed up with.

[Mr. Fox]

1 hour ago, Reciever said:

 

I always get confused on the tubing, I know I want flexible tubing. 

What fittings and tubes should I go with?

I found most of the same things on Amazon so it should arrive while I am on vacation. I'll see if I can find what I need on Amazon so its just one big order. 

Sold my second tower tonight so most of this is bankrolled by that 🙂 I did buy 2x 2697A v4's for my last tower (currently on 2650 V4's and also just got my Xeon Gold 6248's for the server I am building to replace the Dell's that I got fed up with.

I recommend ordering this for your radiator. You can attached a second D5 pump/res to the side of it. I had one and it was awesome. Alphacool NexXxoS Nova 1080mm Fan Housing - Black (24832)

 

You can get good compression fittings on Amazon. I have bought tons of them there. Paying extra for big-name compression fittings is silly. I would recommend using tubing that is 3/8" (10mm) ID, 5/8" (16mm) OD. For years I used 1/2" (13mm) ID, 3/4" (19mm) OD but in the last year or two moved down in size and see no drawbacks in terms of cooling or flow rate. The fittings and tubing are much easier to source and usually cheaper for the slightly smaller size. Clear tubing looks fantastic when it is new and that is what I used for years. After a year or so it starts to get cloudy. It is cheap to replace.

 

However, I recently started using the black EPDM tubing and like it. It looks nice and you don't have to worry about it getting cloudy. I never purchased it before because it was almost never in stock and when it was available it always twice to three times the cost of clear PVC tubing for the same length. I recently discovered that it is much easier to source in the 10/16 size and almost never available in 13/19 size. That is ultimately why I decided to go with 10/16 size tubing in EPDM.

 

Fair warning... EPDM tubing can be very difficult to source at times, and it is usually double the cost of clear PVC. When you can find it at a fair price and in stock, buy twice as much as you need so you don't have to try to find more later. As you can see, it is much cheaper to buy the 3 meter package than 3 x 1 meter.

 

Alphacool EPDM Tubing, 10/16mm, 1 Meter, Black

 

Alphacool EPDM Tubing, 10/16mm, 3 Meter, Black

 

Black Compression Fittings

 

Silver Compression Fittings

 

Don't forget an inline filter (on the pump output side) and male/female fittings you may need for your loop, along with any 90° rotary fittings you may need. I use these filters and they are awesome. You can take them apart to clean the filter screens. You can screw a compression fitting into each end of the filter.

 

Here are some miscellaneous fittings you may or may not need, depending on how you build things.

 

• Male-to-female extenders (available in wide variety of lengths) example
• Male-to-male extenders (available in wide variety of lengths) example
• Female-to-female extenders (available in wide variety of lengths) example

 

The only exception I make on fittings is the EK Torque rotary fittings are the best. They do not leak and many of the cheap ones do not hold up. They cost more but you can use them for years without any leakage issue. The reason being is the rotary surfaces are huge and do not get loose. They are worth the extra money because of quality and long-term durability.

 

EKWB EK-Torque 90 Degree Angled Rotary Fitting, Nickel, 2-pack (They are available in 90° and 45° versions.) These sell out often. Buy extras if you can, like the EPDM tubing. If you need more later you might find them unavailable or grossly overpriced.

 

For years I have used automotive antifreeze in my systems. It lubricates and does not allow organic growth. If you used distilled water, buy some Mayhems Hades Plus and Mayhems Inhibitor. The cost is about the same if you purchase inexpensive antifreeze from Walmart. I prefer the blue Asian type. The normal green type is OK if you prefer green over blue. The yellow/gold antifreeze does not look good to me in a loop. It looks like urine, LOL. My advice is, do not waste money on premixed bottles of coolant. They work fine, but cost way too much and provide no tangible benefit. Since you are using a distro plate with the pump, I recommend going with the distilled water and both Mayhems additives so it does not stain the acrylic distro block. You can clean it up, but who wants to disassemble a distro block for that if you can avoid having to.

 

You can buy this in a pack that includes one bottle of each. It seems expensive, but it is not. You use about 9 drops of each in a one gallon jug of distilled water. There is enough for about 4 or 5 gallons. Mayhems - Water Cooling PC Coolant Additive - Hades Plus and Inhibitor Plus - Complete System Protection, 15 ml (This is actually cheaper than antifreeze because distilled water is around $1.00 per gallon at Walmart and 5 gallons of the cheapest antifreeze will cost more than distilled water plus the Mayhems additives.) 

 

Last comment... buy silver/nickel fittings versus black. You will thank me. Ask me how I know. The black fittings scratch easier and also slowly deteriorate internally and add flecks of black crap to your loop. Black fittings looks great, but the aesthetic is not a good trade-off for the benefits of the silver fittings. You don't want your filters or waterblock jet plates collecting the black particles from the fittings.

 

 

[Mr. Fox]

  

59 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

I recommend ordering this for your radiator. You can attach a second D5 pump/res to the side of it. I had one and it was awesome. Alphacool NexXxoS Nova 1080mm Fan Housing - Black (24832)

 

@Reciever - another tip. Buy yourself a cheap black window screen kit from Home Depot, Lowes or Amazon. You can get a kit with black fiberglass screen and black frame, 90° corner adapters, spline and roller tool. Cut the frame to fit the outer dimension of the radiator housing. Use adhesive magnet strips (from Amazon) on the radiator-facing side of the screen frame to attach it to your radiator as a dust filter. You would be amazed about how much cleaner the radiators and fans will be using the screen as a filter, and it looks perfect... like a factory-made filter. When it gets dirty, you clean it in a matter of seconds with a Swiffer duster or vacuum cleaner.

 

I recommend buying flat magnetic strips. The rolled magnetic strips try to curl and do not stick to the aluminum screen frame nearly as well. Use Gorilla or 3M heavy-duty rubber mounting tape if the sticky stuff on the magnetic strips doesn't hold over time. (It usually ends up coming loose, but the rubber mounting tape is nearly impossible to remove once the magnets are stuck in place if you clean the aluminum frame thoroughly with alcohol.)

[Reciever]

Does this more or less cover all the bases? Thanks again @Mr. Fox!

[tps3443]

On 12/10/2025 at 1:07 PM, electrosoft said:

In regards to voltages and 5090s, in the same vein as I was asking awhile ago here about subjecting naturally lower voltage cards to forced, higher voltages via EVC2 or now with the XOC. There is a reason cards are coming off the fab binned at various voltages and qualities:

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

9800X3D vs 265k at all thee resolutions (1080p, 1440p, 2160p)

 

Pay particular attention to the 1% and .1% across all the results:

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Is there a review out on this stuff comparing it to other pastes along with other LMs and PTM?

 

 

There is not, but I cannot count the tubes of standard liquid metal I have used over the years. And it does not last long. Of course it will last some time, but it loses its cooling ability. And the first sign is loss in stability. It feels just like degradation. 

 

[Mr. Fox]

27 minutes ago, Reciever said:

Does this more or less cover all the bases? Thanks again @Mr. Fox!

Yes, you should be good to go. If you can afford it, buy the EKWB 90° rotary fittings, as they are more durable.

 

I edited my posts above several times so you may have been shopping between edits. I mentioned the disadvantage of black fittings and suggested a filter (with a link).

 

Edit - @Reciever you may already know this, but on the chance you do not, your flat reservoir cannot be used with the D5 pump facing the ceiling. It has to be used either vertically or with the pump facing the floor or it will hold air and burn out the pump.

[tps3443]

18 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Yes, you should be good to go. If you can afford it, buy the EKWB 90° rotary fittings, as they are more durable.

 

I edited my posts above several times so you may have been shopping between edits.

Absolutely lol. Those cheaper 90's will leak. I have seen some brand-new one's leak if any sideways pressure is applied due to weight of a hose or something, and the swivel gets STIFF. The last time I had one leak, I found a small puddle on the back of my 5090FE when it was on air cooling. The scary thing is, I am still using some of them in my build in random places lol. (Those have not shown any signs if

leaking and my loop fortunately holds air, but if I could go back I probably would not have used the cheaper 90’s)

@Reciever Maybe add another pump D5 with the basic top only in the near future in case one fails. The extra pressure and flow allow you to not depend on running 1 single pump at 100% for good performance. Those big rads like flow. Then you can run more pumps and lower speeds or on a PWM profile. Mine are setup where all (4) pumps fall to 20% speed when the CPU is below 50c. If CPU goes over 50c, it means my GPU is pushing some frames, or I am running a load lol. 

With 1 pump, you can run it on the auto/lower PWM RPM, let the water temp reach equilibrium under a full system load, then unplug the pumps PWM, the pump will shoot up to max RPM or max flow rate. You will then see the temps drop on all of your components. This alone tells us more flow will be beneficial. My system still does this with (4) pumps all running at a lower speed on auto with PWM plugged in. Then if I crank them to 100%, I will see everything fall in temps.

That's a nice kit you have assembled in the cart though!

[Mr. Fox]

21 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

Absolutely lol. Those cheaper 90's will leak. I have seen some brand-new one's leak if any sideways pressure is applied due to weight of a hose or something, and the swivel gets STIFF. The last time I had one leak, I found a small puddle on the back of my 5090FE when it was on air cooling. The scary thing is, I am still using some of them in my build in random places lol. 

@Reciever Maybe add another pump D5 with the basic top only in the near future in case one fails. The extra pressure and flow allow you to not depend on running 1 single pump at 100% for good performance. Those big rads like flow. Then you can run more pumps and lower speeds or on a PWM profile. Mine are setup where all (4) pumps fall to 20% speed when the CPU is below 50c. If CPU goes over 50c, it means my GPU is pushing some frames, or I am running a load lol. 

That's a nice kit you have assembled in the cart though!

I agree with the suggestion of adding a second pump. You can mount it to the side of the 1080 housing.

 

Either of these are excellent options for that. I own both. The second option includes a pump and you can mount it on the side with fittings, beteen the top and bottom radiator ports. The larger option needs to be mounted to the side of the housing that does not have fittings.

 

Alphacool Eisbecher Aurora 250mm Glass Reservoir with D5 Body (Pump Not Included), Black/Acetal

 

Alphacool Core 100 Aurora reservoir Acetal/Acryl with VPP Pump (I recommend this option and mounting in between the top and bottom radiator ports. That's where I mounted mine.)

 

You can power the external pumps and fans with an ITX PSU. Just use a jumper on the 24-pin motherboard cable.

This is what I used and it was good.  Apevia ITX-PFC400W Mini ITX/Flex ATX / 1U 400W Fully Modular Power Supply, Full Range Active PFC 90-264V, AC for POS AIO System Desktop Gaming Server Small Form Factor (Flex ITX) Computer PSU

 

You can attach it to the blank side of the radiator housing if you use the Core 100 on the side between the top and bottom fittings. Alternatively, you can use one of these to runs the fans and pumps, but will need to solder a molex connector to the end. I have one on my chiller to run the two pumps and it works great.  

 

 

[Mr. Fox]

@Reciever - you need a way to distribute power the fans that is not too messy and is electrically sound. I recommend that you get one of these for your 9 radiator fans and you can control speed using the remote. I have several of these and they work fantastic (pun intended). You can use SATA power from the PSU mentioned above. I do not use motherboard fan headers or RGB headers. (Using motherboard RGB headers sucks because you need software garbage to control the lights and motherboard fan headers required farting around with software or BIOS settings. This device solves both of those really crappy problems.)

 

Delta EH10 Fan Hub with Remote Controller for PC Case, Support 10 Ports 5V-3PIN ARGB / 12V 4PIN PWM, Smart Circuit Protection, Magnetic Mount, SATA Powered(12V 4-pin RGB Fans not Supported)

[Reciever]

44 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Yes, you should be good to go. If you can afford it, buy the EKWB 90° rotary fittings, as they are more durable.

 

I edited my posts above several times so you may have been shopping between edits. I mentioned the disadvantage of black fittings and suggested a filter (with a link).

 

Edit - @Reciever you may already know this, but on the chance you do not, your flat reservoir cannot be use with the D5 pump facing the ceiling. It has to be vertical or with the pump facing the floor or it will hold air and burn out the pump.

 So as long as I keep the radiator standing up-right, should be fine?

Also, running 2 pumps?

 

Should I just get 2 Core 100's, Eisbecher res and remove the distro plate? 

 

 

Current list as-is, is that enough fittings?