*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[tps3443]

25 minutes ago, Reciever said:

Yeah the 1K vBIOS did well for benchmarking last winter, I still have it for this year when I try swapping the fans out to force the temps lower, plan to do the same thing to the other cards I have where it makes sense to do so.

 

I'll look forward to when you can share that vBIOS 🙂

Here is the bios I am using right now 520W KP LN2 Re-bar bios. Coincidentally, I actually switched over to this bios last night (Bios switch) just to try it out at 4K. I have been running the 1KW KP bios for the past year straight daily. Only some situations really need the 1KW bios. One example is Cyberpunk 2077 in 4K with an overclock, a few other games can benefit from the 1KW bios but this is really only with HEAVY overclocks, and with lots of extra voltage added with the Kingpin tool app. The Kingpin tool lets you send 1.600V to the GPU if you really wanted to lol. 

VGA Bios Collection: EVGA RTX 3090 24 GB | TechPowerUp

[Mr. Fox]

@tps3443my memory kit arrived. It is made different than what was evident in photos. Too bad they did not include any kind of documentation. Do you know if Supercool has a video showing the way they recommend assembling, or did you just determine that by examining the parts? (It looks pretty simple based on what I am seeing.) This assembly is incredibly heavy. If you ever dropped your case or set it down extra hard I could see it damaging the memory slots like a GPU floppy around in the PCIe slot.

 

It looks like these actually stack with no air space between the modules if I am interpreting what I am looking at. It seems to make a sandwich with no backplate for the first module, just a foam pad between the back of the PCB and the cold plate for the second module. Am I interpreting that correctly? So, did you assemble it without the Allen screws tight before installing in the slots, then once the modules were inserted into the motherboard, then tightening down the back plate Allen screws to smush the sandwich together? Then, last step tighting the Allen bolts on top? There probably would not be enough space between the modules for a back plate for each RAM stick because the cold plate in the middle takes up most of the space.

 

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

@tps3443my memory kit arrived. It is made different than what was evident in photos. Too bad they did not include any kind of documentation. Do you know if Supercool has a video showing the way they recommend assembling, or did you just determine that by examining the parts? (It looks pretty simple based on what I am seeing.) This assembly is incredibly heavy. If you ever dropped your case or set it down extra hard I could see it damaging the memory slots like a GPU floppy around in the PCIe slot.

 

It looks like these actually stack with no air space between the modules if I am interpreting what I am looking at. It seems to make a sandwich with no backplate for the first module, just a foam pad between the back of the PCB and the cold plate for the second module. Am I interpreting that correctly? So, did you assemble it without the Allen screws tight before installing in the slots, then once the modules were inserted into the motherboard, then tightening down the back plate Allen screws to smush the sandwich together? Then, last step tighting the Allen bolts on top? There probably would not be enough space between the modules for a back plate for each RAM stick because the cold plate in the middle takes up most of the space.

 

Hey, your pic is correct! And here is a video that will help @Mr. Fox

Yes the foam pad goes against the back of the blank side memory PCB. I would not peel off of the sticky tape either, if you do you won’t be able to slide the modules forward backward to line up with the dimms when you go to insert it as 1 whole piece. 
 

Your pic is the proper layout though. You can take everything apart to assemble, it’s very easy to reassemble too. 
 

You really only have to unscrew the waterblock top screws on one module, and the 3 screws for each of their back plates and you will have access to everything.

 

Put 0.5mm pad on each IC, and 1.0MM pad on the PMIC, then line the inner memory stick up with the memory waterblockblock (same amount sticking out on each side), or as best as you can, then tighten the 3 screws on the inner stick backplate. Then mount your outer stick and line it up with the already mounted memory stick exactly. Then tighten that ones back plate on too. 
 

My temps were identical Dimm1/Dimm2 on air cooling without watercooling hooked up. Once I added water cooling I got a deviation between their temps by about 3.5C. Not sure why. Still, they run stupid cold lol. 
 

[Mr. Fox]

1 hour ago, tps3443 said:

Hey, your pic is correct! And here is a video that will help @Mr. Fox

Yes the foam pad goes against the back of the blank side memory PCB. I would not peel off of the sticky tape either, if you do you won’t be able to slide the modules forward backward to line up with the dimms when you go to insert it as 1 whole piece. 
 

Your pic is the proper layout though. You can take everything apart to assemble, it’s very easy to reassemble too. 
 

You really only have to unscrew the waterblock top screws on one module, and the 3 screws for each of their back plates and you will have access to everything.

 

Put 0.5mm pad on each IC, and 1.0MM pad on the PMIC, then line the inner memory stick up with the memory waterblockblock (same amount sticking out on each side), or as best as you can, then tighten the 3 screws on the inner stick backplate. Then mount your outer stick and line it up with the already mounted memory stick exactly. Then tighten that ones back plate on too. 
 

My temps were identical Dimm1/Dimm2 on air cooling without watercooling hooked up. Once I added water cooling I got a deviation between their temps by about 3.5C. Not sure why. Still, they run stupid cold lol. 
 

Thanks, brother. The process is very similar to my other water cooled memory configuration other than the sandwich part. Each module has its own jacket, but you have to get the jackets lined up in order for the block on top to align correctly with its screw holes.

[tps3443]

2 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Thanks, brother. The process is very similar to my other water cooled memory configuration other than the sandwich part. Each module has its own jacket, but you have to get the jackets lined up in order for the block on top to align correctly with its screw holes.

Yeah, I think the kit is really great that water actually channels over the IC’s. When I first got these I thought water would cool both sides of the DDR5. But, since it’s for single sided DDR5 it really doesn’t make since to do so. And it makes perfect sense for our DDR5 to only be cooled on one side, since essentially the back side is blank on our rams, and it only gets/needs a thin back plate, kind of like a GPU would have lol.

 

Anyways, I’m going to re-mount mine and user higher quality 0.5MM thermal pads. Not that’s it’s needed, but I have to tear things down again anyways for re-doing my loop. 

[Mr. Fox]

19 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

Yeah, I think the kit is really great that water actually channels over the IC’s. When I first got these I thought water would cool both sides of the DDR5. But, since it’s for single sided DDR5 it really doesn’t make since to do so. And it makes perfect sense for our DDR5 to only be cooled on one side, since essentially the back side is blank on our rams, and it only gets/needs a thin back plate, kind of like a GPU would have lol.

 

Anyways, I’m going to re-mount mine and user higher quality 0.5MM thermal pads. Not that’s it’s needed, but I have to tear things down again anyways for re-doing my loop. 

I have some 12.8W/mK pads that I will be using. I'm still kind of tempted to desolder the LEDs on my G.SKILL modules while I have it apart. I wish that I could find some modules that are functionally the same or better than these that don't have RGB.

[Papusan]

Same temps as with KPX. Anyone that can confirm it? Maybe the results will change with an decent overclock. 

 

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

I have some 12.8W/mK pads that I will be using. I'm still kind of tempted to desolder the LEDs on my G.SKILL modules while I have it apart. I wish that I could find some modules that are functionally the same or better than these that don't have RGB.

Yeah, mine are pretty well covered with these supercool spreaders. You’d only see RGB if you looked inside of them through the side hole. And it actually looks kinda cool. Because it’s hidden RGB. 
 

I want to try some of those 25.0W/mk pads. Or maybe even just some 20W/mk pads. I’d be curious to see if there’s an improvement on a GPU, or if I’m just wasting my time.

[Mr. Fox]

8 hours ago, Papusan said:

Same temps as with KPX. Anyone that can confirm it? Maybe the results will change with an decent overclock. 

 

I have been meaning to test it bare die to see how it compares with liquid metal. I went ahead and ordered a piece sized for bare die. Maybe I can find time to test this weekend.

  

10 hours ago, tps3443 said:

Hey, your pic is correct! And here is a video that will help @Mr. Fox

Yes the foam pad goes against the back of the blank side memory PCB. I would not peel off of the sticky tape either, if you do you won’t be able to slide the modules forward backward to line up with the dimms when you go to insert it as 1 whole piece. 

@tps3443that didn't answer a question I had upon initial inspection, and I cannot understand what they are saying. Maybe @Clamibotcan translate. He clearly has an older design in the video, but it raises the same question I had as soon as I unboxed it. His video shows a backplate on each module. The kit I received DOES NOT include a backplate for both modules, only one for the outside stick with the bare side of the PCB.

 

My kit does not have the piece where the red arrow is pointing. Only has the backplae where the green arrow is pointing. Is that how yours is made also, or did they accidentally omit a part out of my kit? The photos on the Supercool web site are not helpful at all because they are incomplete and do not accurately depict what the kit should look like.

 

This is how mine arrived. Notice the difference? Is something missing, or that is the new design?

[ryan]

My iets gt500 s2 4600rpm should be in this morning. Super excited to see if I can overclock cpu and remain under 80c. I only have one game I play that would benefit at 4k to get the Magix 120 and its an oldie. Crysis.

[tps3443]

4 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

I have been meaning to test it bare die to see how it compares with liquid metal. I went ahead and ordered a piece sized for bare die. Maybe I can find time to test this weekend.

  

@tps3443that didn't answer a question I had upon initial inspection, and I cannot understand what they are saying. Maybe @Clamibotcan translate. He clearly has an older design in the video, but it raises the same question I had as soon as I unboxed it. His video shows a backplate on each module. The kit I received DOES NOT include a backplate for both modules, only one for the outside stick with the bare side of the PCB.

 

My kit does not have the piece where the red arrow is pointing. Only has the backplae where the green arrow is pointing. Is that how yours is made also, or did they accidentally omit a part out of my kit? The photos on the Supercool web site are not helpful at all because they are incomplete and do not accurately depict what the kit should look like.

 

This is how mine arrived. Notice the difference? Is something missing, or that is the new design?

Uh oh! Looks like you are missing a back plate, and (3) screws. That’s a screw up on Supercools behalf there @Mr. Fox. That really sucks too. I would post a comment on the YouTube video, and send him a message as well.

 

On your first pic I missed that completely.. 

 

Are you missing the (3) screws on the inside as well that hold the back plate on?

 

[Papusan]

On 10/2/2023 at 7:35 PM, Papusan said:

 

First step, ordered while I had the chance......... Asus Rog Maximus Z790 Apex Encore. $902 USD ($720 without the dreaded 25% Norwegian tax).  But I still can't see any 14900K in the shops. I'll continue follow up this one 🙂

This rehashed Z790 Apex board is 30% higher priced than Z690 Apex. 

 

 

Edit. Z790 Apex Encore: spotted in Norway!

https://overclocking.com/z790-apex-encore-reperee-en-norvege/

 

 

What if we could pick up one before release date?🙂

 

The beauty is in in the details... Some people think they have found up the wheel a second time.

 

 

Fantastic news 🙂 https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-asus-strix-maximus-z790-owners-thread.1800191/post-29242442

 

Back to Black!!!!🤩 ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 APEX Encore spotted: Overclocking Enthusiast Board

 

And less ugly...

 

Yup.... Back in Black. Enjoy 🙂

 

9 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

I have been meaning to test it bare die to see how it compares with liquid metal. I went ahead and ordered a piece sized for bare die. Maybe I can find time to test this weekend.

  

@tps3443that didn't answer a question I had upon initial inspection, and I cannot understand what they are saying. Maybe @Clamibotcan translate. He clearly has an older design in the video, but it raises the same question I had as soon as I unboxed it. His video shows a backplate on each module. The kit I received DOES NOT include a backplate for both modules, only one for the outside stick with the bare side of the PCB.

 

My kit does not have the piece where the red arrow is pointing. Only has the backplae where the green arrow is pointing. Is that how yours is made also, or did they accidentally omit a part out of my kit? The photos on the Supercool web site are not helpful at all because they are incomplete and do not accurately depict what the kit should look like.

 

This is how mine arrived. Notice the difference? Is something missing, or that is the new design?

 

Thanks bro Fox 🙂

[Mr. Fox]

2 hours ago, tps3443 said:

Uh oh! Looks like you are missing a back plate, and (3) screws. That’s a screw up on Supercools behalf there @Mr. Fox. That really sucks too. I would post a comment on the YouTube video, and send him a message as well.

 

On your first pic I missed that completely.. 

 

Are you missing the (3) screws on the inside as well that hold the back plate on?

 

Missing backplate, screws and o-rings. Lovely. 😑 Wonder how long it will take to resolve?

 

2 hours ago, Papusan said:

 

Fantastic news 🙂 https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-asus-strix-maximus-z790-owners-thread.1800191/post-29242442

 

Back to Black!!!!🤩 ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 APEX Encore spotted: Overclocking Enthusiast Board

 

Yup.... Back in Black. Enjoy 🙂

 

 

Thanks bro Fox 🙂

I wish mine was black. Sucks that they waited to release it and everyone that doesn't like white got what they got. Now I feel like I got screwed by ASUS again. They excel at that. I hate ASUS. They suck.

[ryan]

Iets gt500. Just got it. Holy Smokes is it loud. This thing sounds like jet engine. Will post results. So far overclocked I'm stabilizing at 74c cpu and gpu. Normal settings around 56c

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

Missing backplate, screws and o-rings. Lovely. 😑 Wonder how long it will take to resolve?

 

I wish mine was black. Sucks that they waited to release it and everyone that doesn't like white got what they got. Now I feel like I got screwed by ASUS again. They excel at that. I hate ASUS. They suck.

It looks like you have all (4) O-Rings in the top block in the picture. Unless I am missing something here. Someone I know said to message him on Facebook directly. He also responds quickly in the YouTube comments too.

[Mr. Fox]

40 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

It looks like you have all (4) O-Rings in the top block in the picture. Unless I am missing something here. Someone I know said to message him on Facebook directly. He also responds quickly in the YouTube comments too.

There are no o-rings. What are you seeing that looks like o-rings? There is a slot where o-rings should be, but they are empty. I emailed their Gmail address and used the "Contact Us" from the store page.

 

If I do not get a reply by the time I get off work I will message them on Facebook. I try to avoid logging into Facebook as much as I can.

 

Edit: I see the o-rings are translucent now. After turning on the lights in my office to get a better look they are there, but hard to see. They look like an empty o-ring groove without bright lighting. I saw your previous photos showing black o-rings. I posted a comment on the YouTube video.

Edited October 3, 2023 by Mr. Fox
o-rings

[Papusan]

New/newer is always better bro @ryan @Rage Set😁 And I know bro @Mr. Foxwon't be so dumb that he jump on the latest and greatest CU patches from the stupids in Redmond. So he is most likely safe from the madness. 

 

Windows 11's Latest Cumulative Update Breaks AMD Adrenalin Control Panel

According to a community post on the AMD forums, Microsoft's latest cumulative preview update KB5030310 can break AMD's Adrenalin graphics control panel and can cause custom settings to be reset inside the control panel every time the system reboots. Thankfully, Microsoft's latest update does not break graphics driver functionality, but it will be irritating for users that use the Adrenalin control panel a lot.

 

If you own a Radeon GPU, it would probably be best to wait on this update. Apparently, the problem can also be fixed by uninstalling the update if you have already installed it. Though this issue has only been confirmed from the AMD community forum post we mentioned above, so there's a chance some Radeon users won't be affected.

 

Quote

RGB is absent............................. The choice between black or black and no RGB. A damn good combination.

 

 

I hope this one can be an option. I will follow up and see how it perform in reviews. The choice between black or black and no RGB, damn tempting🙂 Can't beat that color and feature options bro @Mr. Fox

 

TeamGroup launches its T-Force Xtreem DDR5!

 

With its new memory kits, the brand offers us  DDR5 RAM  equipped with an aluminum heatsink. The latter offers a sober design with a T-Force logo applied to the side. As for the color, we have the choice between black or black. In all cases,  RGB is absent.

Narvik Black. I can understand that color scheme label. Narvik is a big black hole in the winter time long north in Norway. A place known from the Second World War. 

[Rage Set]

3 hours ago, Papusan said:

New/newer is always better bro @ryan @Rage Set😁 And I know bro @Mr. Foxwon't be so dumb that he jump on the latest and greatest CU patches from the stupids in Redmond. So he is most likely safe from the madness. 

 

Windows 11's Latest Cumulative Update Breaks AMD Adrenalin Control Panel

According to a community post on the AMD forums, Microsoft's latest cumulative preview update KB5030310 can break AMD's Adrenalin graphics control panel and can cause custom settings to be reset inside the control panel every time the system reboots. Thankfully, Microsoft's latest update does not break graphics driver functionality, but it will be irritating for users that use the Adrenalin control panel a lot.

 

If you own a Radeon GPU, it would probably be best to wait on this update. Apparently, the problem can also be fixed by uninstalling the update if you have already installed it. Though this issue has only been confirmed from the AMD community forum post we mentioned above, so there's a chance some Radeon users won't be affected.

 

 

 

I hope this one can be an option. I will follow up and see how it perform in reviews. The choice between black or black and no RGB🙂 Can't beat that color and feature options bro @Mr. Fox

 

TeamGroup launches its T-Force Xtreem DDR5!

 

With its new memory kits, the brand offers us  DDR5 RAM  equipped with an aluminum heatsink. The latter offers a sober design with a T-Force logo applied to the side. As for the color, we have the choice between black or black. In all cases,  RGB is absent.

 

 

 

Good thing I don't use Windows 11 on anything...well work related machines notwithstanding. My gaming rig with the 5900X/6800XT will never be upgraded to Windows 11...I am just waiting patiently until I find a good Linux gaming distro. I know many here hates W10, but it serves it purposes for my gaming needs.  

[tps3443]

This is a great DDR5 8000.C34 memory profile to start with @Mr. Fox this is legit HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY stable too. I ran Anta777Extreme for nearly 2 hours with no errors on the first try. 

[Mr. Fox]

On 9/29/2023 at 6:18 PM, tps3443 said:

@Mr. Fox You can try these timings as well. This is DDR5 8800 C40 (Just started testing it) I am back to my DDR5 8800 profile, which worked really great for daily usage even stock on air cooling for gaming only and work etc. But I'll probably do 20-30 minutes of memory testing using Anta777 Extreme, and if its good then I will leave it. I may be able to even get DDR5 9000 I haven't tried that one just yet. 

This is with:

 

•Auto IVR TX voltage

•VDDQ Voltage Training enabled. 
•CPU IMC voltage is set at 1.481V (Not even sure I need that much, but it's a starting point, my profile actually only had it set to 1.400V for DDR5 8800, but I feel like that is not enough based on other people) 
•1.600V MEM VDD

•1.55V MEM VDDQ
•SA voltage is auto 1.332V

•CPU@6.0Ghz P-Cores

•CPU@4.6Ghz E-Cores

•5.0Ghz Ring

I'll loosen up the timings a bit to match yours and try bumping from 8600 to 8800.

[ryan]

thats insane 9000mhz. imagine if the 13900ks got that high with just liquid.

 

Welp. Its official in my books as iv'e done enough testing on my new cooler. 

 

 

Identical settings for config fan on fan off is the only change

 

cinebench r23

 

cpu at 3.8ghz

iets gt500-80C

stock fan-94c(throttles)

 

14c difference and its real 😛

 

gpu did ok, not as good as cpu

 

75.3 with iets gt500

87.7 with stock fans and once again thermal throttling

 

12.4c difference.

 

since im throttling stock at such low clocks. even shaving off 14c-12c on gpu and cpu doesn't allow me to touch record scores

 

with benchmarks they are fairly short lived they are not an accurate representation and ideal gaming settings so i guess its pointless

 

was it worth it, oh heck yes. now I can boot my computer and jump into a game without tweaking anything and be in the 60s-70s C. really nice vs thermal throttling.

 

 

now to get the ptm 7950 phase change pads(official ones)

 

im hopeful that I can push this system further with the ptm 7950. but as im dirt poor ill have to wait till the end of the month.

 

 

with realistic settings, for my setup a 120mhz core overclock and 0 on the sensitive ram(haha you guys are nuts) and cpu at 3.9-4.1ghz im topping out at 77-78c on gpu and cpu. very exciting as recently ive been gaming alot more in the last two weeks than i have in the last 5 years combined.

 

 

 

[Talon]

On 10/2/2023 at 9:06 PM, Papusan said:

Same temps as with KPX. Anyone that can confirm it? Maybe the results will change with an decent overclock. 

 

 

I've been testing one of these with a 280mm AIO on my living room setup. They work pretty dang well! Temps are comparable to the best pastes out there. I ordered the 38x38 sheet and then cut to size. When I cut it down a tad the sheet to slightly crack so that actually could have hurt temps IMO. I have a second one that I'm saving for 14th gen so don't want to retest. But overall I'm impressed with this. Could be good for those that don't need absolute best, don't want the mess while quickly testing a setup, etc. I'll keep using it for that setup since I leave it stock and don't need the best temps possible. 

[Mr. Fox]

6 hours ago, ryan said:

thats insane 9000mhz. imagine if the 13900ks got that high with just liquid.

 

9 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

I'll loosen up the timings a bit to match yours and try bumping from 8600 to 8800.

With loose timings the returns are starting to diminish. With tighter timings, my read, write and copy speeds at 8200 are better than 8600, and require 150mV less VDD at 8200. So, to some degree the higher clocks are just for fun and e-peen.

 

I won't be able to really push the memory much harder until I get the sticks on water. They start to overheat and error out and BSOD around 62-65°C with air cooling with the factory heating blankets.

 

@tps3443Supercool responded and apologized for the oversight. Said he would ship the missing parts right away.

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

 

With loose timings the returns are starting to diminish. With tighter timings, my read, write and copy speeds at 8200 are better than 8600, and require 150mV less VDD at 8200. So, to some degree the higher clocks are just for fun and e-peen.

 

I won't be able to really push the memory much harder until I get the sticks on water. They start to overheat and error out and BSOD around 62-65°C with air cooling with the factory heating blankets.

 

@tps3443Supercool responded and apologized for the oversight. Said he would ship the missing parts right away.

 

I’m going to try and develop a legit stable memory profile with high speeds and tight timings. The one I have now is awesome though 8000c34, and it’s a good start but it’s still only DDR5 8000, makes me think 8000c32 is possible though. I’m going to start pushing the speeds and get it even better. It’s crazy how memory can spit errors out over something dumb, like one single timing being 8 instead of 10 lol. Or not working up slowly in memory training, or not starting from scratch. But, once you get a 100% stable profile, it’s absolutely stable no matter what. 
 

I can run DDR5 8800 daily, but the timings are crap, and I need to actually put in the time and work to develop a real stable 8800 profile for my system that performs the way it should. I have been too lazy lol. 
 

Anyways, I’m glad they responded so quickly at Supercool. These memory waterblocks are amazing. I love mine. I can actually do real stability testing with no worry over temp induced errors. 
 

My 10 gallon water tank is out for delivery. I’m excited to hook that big thing up, and have stable water temps even during chiller cycles. 

[Mr. Fox]

3 hours ago, tps3443 said:

 

I’m going to try and develop a legit stable memory profile with high speeds and tight timings. The one I have now is awesome though 8000c34, and it’s a good start but it’s still only DDR5 8000, makes me think 8000c32 is possible though. I’m going to start pushing the speeds and get it even better. It’s crazy how memory can spit errors out over something dumb, like one single timing being 8 instead of 10 lol. Or not working up slowly in memory training, or not starting from scratch. But, once you get a 100% stable profile, it’s absolutely stable no matter what. 
 

I can run DDR5 8800 daily, but the timings are crap, and I need to actually put in the time and work to develop a real stable 8800 profile for my system that performs the way it should. I have been too lazy lol. 
 

Anyways, I’m glad they responded so quickly at Supercool. These memory waterblocks are amazing. I love mine. I can actually do real stability testing with no worry over temp induced errors. 
 

My 10 gallon water tank is out for delivery. I’m excited to hook that big thing up, and have stable water temps even during chiller cycles. 

Even when it doesn't produce better benchmark results, it is still pretty crazy and amazing to be able to run system memory at 8000 and higher. It seems like only yesterday that 4000 was considered exceptional.

 

At a certain point it reaches a place where going faster doesn't produce meaningful results in day-to-day performance. Kind of like how it is very difficult to tell the difference between a fast SATA SSD and NVMe in your normal daily use. Easy to spot in a benchmark, but otherwise not very noticeable.

 

Maybe one of these days I will look into adding an insulated tank. It's a good idea. Too many projects right now, but worth doing. Not enough hours in the day to do anything extra right now.

 

I also want to explore the idea of adding both desktops into a single chilled water loop. I think that is doable. I think the ambient temperature warm the water as much as the computers do. Removing radiators from the chilled loop dramatically lowers the temperatures. The radiators help warm the water to ambient and actually hinder the chiller, so I could eliminate the need for radiators completely for both systems.

 

That might be an example of where having the tank submerged in ice inside of an insulated cooler to supplement the chiller would be good. You wouldn't need to fill it with ice for daily use, just for benching. I think the chiller would cool both of them enough for normal daily use with an insulated tank.

 

I also thought about buying a used mini-fridge at a yard sale and putting the tank inside of the mini-fridge to further cool the water and supplement the abilities of the chiller. I could just tuck the mini-fridge in a corner under one of my desks. Or, I could put it in a corner with the chiller sitting on top of it.