*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[tps3443]

1 hour ago, Papusan said:

I have the flow meter. You have the pump. Maybe read the manual... D5 NEXT

 

User and installation manual - D5 NEXT - Aqua Computer

 

Aquacomputer D5 Next pump review. - YouTube

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all I need it for, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C to calibrate and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work, and you have to pinch a line to calibrate the pump as well. Any other coolant may not work..🤣
 

I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂
 

EDIT: I got the software working, but I don’t think the virtual flow will work with my water type and water temp. 

[Papusan]

22 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all it does, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work. Any other coolant may not work..🤣
 

I can’t even get the Windows software to work to change the RGB around. I have it plugged in to my motherboards USB with the cable, but the software says “No Aqua devices connected” I flipped the USB plug around and tried another location, no luck.
 

I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂
 

 

Bro. Sign into Aqua Computers forum. They will help you if you have some questions... https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/

 

Btw. Did you chech Hwinfo if you see info in the sensors and or use their software? https://aquacomputer.de/software.html

 

https://licensing.aquacomputer.de/shop/aquasuite

 

Can I use my devices without purchasing the update service?
Yes! In the setup of the aquasuite software you always have access to a free version.
Newly purchased devices always include an update service. The duration of the service begins with the start of the aquasuite software or its setup.

 

 

[Rage Set]

5 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

Got new internet... finally... long overdue competition for Cox Cable. It was the only option other than crappy 20 Mbps DSL, but now we have fiber. Same price as Cox Cable Gigabit, but faster both ways. Quantum Fiber is the new ISP.

 

You got me by upload but Comcast keeps pushing the download in my region for free. Here in CT, I have fiber, DSL and Cable, which keeps Comcast/Xfinity honesty. Comcast was going to introduce a data cap, but every since the fiber company arrived, they backed down. According to a rep, we will have 5gbs by the start of 2024 and 10G (🙄) by 2025 "if" I upgrade my modem to a DOSIS 4.0 variant through them (the rep should see my account, knowing I will not ever use Xfinity modems). By the time a DOSIS 4.0 modem is needed, I will have moved on to fiber. 10G over coaxial will be hampered. 

 

 

 

[Mr. Fox]

5 hours ago, tps3443 said:

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all it does, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work. Any other coolant may not work..🤣
 

I can’t even get the Windows software to work to change the RGB around. I have it plugged in to my motherboards USB with the cable, but the software says “No Aqua devices connected” I flipped the USB plug around and tried another location, no luck.
 

I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂
 

 

The Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next water block ís also temperature only. Yours might be the same. I was disappointed to discover that as well. Caveat emptor. The version with both is a lot more expensive and grossly overpriced, poor value. You can get a TT TF2 and enjoy both with no need for crappy software. It works even with no operating system, and starts displaying data as soon as you press the power button. It has an alarm that can be adjusted to go off with a user-defined limit on flow rate and that can be set with buttons on the device. It has no features that rely on the presence of an operating system, or a USB header, which makes it awesome.

4 hours ago, Rage Set said:

 

You got me by upload but Comcast keeps pushing the download in my region for free. Here in CT, I have fiber, DSL and Cable, which keeps Comcast/Xfinity honesty. Comcast was going to introduce a data cap, but every since the fiber company arrived, they backed down. According to a rep, we will have 5gbs by the start of 2024 and 10G (🙄) by 2025 "if" I upgrade my modem to a DOSIS 4.0 variant through them (the rep should see my account, knowing I will not ever use Xfinity modems). By the time a DOSIS 4.0 modem is needed, I will have moved on to fiber. 10G over coaxial will be hampered. 

 

 

 

I suspect the same thing is going to happen here. Cox has had a long-time monopoly with no competition other than Mediacom, whom they screwed, along with would-be subscribers, by doing sleazy exclusive-access cable vendor schemes with various housing developers and  homeowner's associations. Back in the day when their Mafia deals were struck, Centurylink/Qwest offered only crummy landline, dial-up and DSL. Now that Centurylink (Quantum Fiber) is a threat, and T-Mobile 5G Home Internet are also helping to bypass their monopoly, they are starting to freak out. It makes me very happy to see it taking place. Not only do they no longer have the fastest options available, they now have to compete with a no data limit provider that is offering a no-contract product that is faster and $30-$70/month cheaper, which varies depending on your street address.  Those who were blocked from choosing Mediacom due to sleazy business deals will enjoy even greater financial benefits. I love seeing ruthless and brutal justice executed upon the wicked with such merciless precision.  I will be giving Cox the nasty-finger eat poop and die salute tomorrow.

 

An interesting challenge with the fiber was that my upload was only like 38 Gbps (same as Cox cable was) and fiber is supposed to be 1Gbps both up and down. The problem turned out to be my Linksys WRT32X router. On WiFi 6  and wireless AC I was getting proper speeds up and down, but wired LAN upload was not. Connecting the Cat6 cable direct to the fiber modem the speeds were correct. So, I ditched the router and will use the fiber modem's internal router for that rather than using it in bridge mode. I replaced it with a 8-port switch and *BOOM* Gigabit both ways. So, the router was the bottleneck on upload speed and I am not sure why. The WRT32X has an internal speed test feature and it was correctly showing up/down both at Gigabit speeds, but the LAN ports were limiting upload to 38 Mbps maximum for some reason. Installing the switch in place of the router was an instant fix. The TP-Link 8-port Gigabit switch was only $21, LOL.

 

The 1 Gbps upload is going to make uploading a large YouTube video a lot faster than <40 Mbps was. At least I would think it should be a whole lost faster.

 

[tps3443]

23 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

The Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next water block ís also temperature only. Yours might be the same. I was disappointed to discover that as well. Caveat emptor. The version with both is a lot more expensive and grossly overpriced, poor value. You can get a TT TF2 and enjoy both with no need for crappy software. It works even with no operating system, and starts displaying data as soon as you press the power button. It has an alarm that can be adjusted to go off with a user-defined limit on flow rate and that can be set with buttons on the device. It has no features that rely on the presence of an operating system, or a USB header, which makes it awesome.

 

This pump has a built in flow meter and temp sensor. But, it’s just a hassle to calibrate it properly. 
 

(1) You need specific Aqua Computer coolant for the flow sensor to work, or you could maybe mix something up that would be consistent to make the sensor read my water. 
(2) You can only have this (1) pump running during calibration process, that’s not exactly possible. This one pump can’t even turn water in my loop, as the calibration process drops to 0% then slowly moves up during calibration lol. 
(3) You are supposed to pinch off/block flow during calibration and release the tube after it’s done? Why would I do this 😂

(4) Water temp needs to be 33C or higher for proper calibration to work. (Not gonna happen) 

 

So, it pumps and it tells me my water temp. I’m okay with that. I’ve got a mechanical flow sensor on the way that I will piggy back off of the pump and run on its own tube, and the flow rate from the sensor will display on the pump but it will be an accurate reading from a mechanical sensor. 
 

It also seems less powerful than my brand new VPP655T. That it replaced. Power usage shows 19.5 watts from the pump. 
 

I’m still struggling with my loop. Air is getting in somehow. I have leak tested my pumps, my blocks, and I took apart my supercool. The only thing I can think of is maybe my Koolance QD3’s are introducing air in through the cpu block and it’s slowly filling up air in my system. I already tore down my supercool tonight and leak tested it on both sides and it is 100%. The air slowly builds in the chiller tank, and I have to shake it out in to my reservoir. 
 

I can see teeny tiny air bubbles in my supercool block so I think it may be coming from my QD3’s. I also took them off and put some o ring grease and put them back on. 
 

 

 

[electrosoft]

10 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

OpenRGB bricked three RGB memory kits for me. Two TeamGroup and one G.SKILL. It is a known issue. One stick the SPD was completely wiped and the second and third kits had the SPD corrupted so that some timings were erased, the product name and brand were corrupted and did not display correctly in AIDA64 or CPU-Z. It is a dangerous option for DDR5 users. If you enable SPD write in the BIOS almost guaranteed you will end up bricked, but it happened to me with it disabled twice. The first time when it wiped the SPD it was enabled.

 

OpenRGB says it is the memory manufacturers fault for not protecting the modules. Might be the case, and I believe it probably is, but it is still the end user that ends up getting screwed and it directly resulted from using OpenRGB.

 

I noticed the newest versions no longer support many G.Skill modules including two sets of DDR5 I have. That is probably the reason why it was disabled or removed potentially.

 

7 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

Got new internet... finally... long overdue competition for Cox Cable. It was the only option other than crappy 20 Mbps DSL, but now we have fiber. Same price as Cox Cable Gigabit, but faster both ways. Quantum Fiber is the new ISP.

 

Xfinity ruled the roost here and still does to a degree. Fiber is rolling out ridiculously slow and Xfinity's pricing was atrocious along with data caps but suddenly when T-Mobile started offering unlimited Internet up to ~400-600mbps for ~$55/mo they suddenly dropped all their pricing in the mid to lower tiers drastically and made it unlimited. We're going to need Fiber to roll out here for the 1gbps+ packages to drop even further. They keep trying to tie you into all their legacy packages including a land line.

 

I actually cut the cable a little over a year ago, cancelled Xfinity outright and switched to T-Mobile for 3-4 months and was getting 300-500mbps down, 50mbps up and saving almost $200/mo compared to my Triple Play BS. I went to the physical store to cancel and turn in my DVR and CM and when the CS asked what he could do to make me stay with them I said, "Give me unlimited 400-500mbps Internet for $50-60/mo" and the perplexed look on his face said it all as he said, "there is no way we can match that but if you sign up for Xfinity Mobile we might be able to offer a package deal that would bring that into range. How much do you pay for your Cell service?" I said, "$100/mo for 4 lines unlimited everything." And he just smiled and said, "I'll go ahead and cancel your Xfinity service."

 

Right about 3 months in wiith T-Mobile, Xfinity shifted their pricing and bombarded me with "come back please!" and just like that they had a package that matched T-Mobile but obviously with much better latency than 5G so I switched back but only for Internet for $55.99/mo and here we are.

 

Honestly, I don't feel much of a difference between my old 1.2gbps and 500mbps 99% of the time unless I'm installing a new game and even then I just set to download, minimize and go do other stuff.

 

They give you a "free" Xfinity streaming box with all tiers of their Internet packages that basically is a glorified version of their DVR and you have to pay for everything to enable services on it. It has been sitting in my cabinet gathering dust since day one hook up when I realized it was just a means to try and get you to sign back up for their classic packages 2.0.

 

I like being able to select which streaming services have enough content for me to turn back on for X months till the well runs dry and I can turn them back off. For example, AppleTV has been off since Feb. I just turned Paramount+ back on after 6 months. Netflix has been off officially for a year now. I'm getting ready to turn Disney+ off and let it build back up. I turned Peacock off last month and won't turn it back on till sometime next year. I do keep Hulu for Fox and ABC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mr. Fox]

3 hours ago, electrosoft said:

 

I noticed the newest versions no longer support many G.Skill modules including two sets of DDR5 I have. That is probably the reason why it was disabled or removed potentially.

 

 

Xfinity ruled the roost here and still does to a degree. Fiber is rolling out ridiculously slow and Xfinity's pricing was atrocious along with data caps but suddenly when T-Mobile started offering unlimited Internet up to ~400-600mbps for ~$55/mo they suddenly dropped all their pricing in the mid to lower tiers drastically and made it unlimited. We're going to need Fiber to roll out here for the 1gbps+ packages to drop even further. They keep trying to tie you into all their legacy packages including a land line.

 

I actually cut the cable a little over a year ago, cancelled Xfinity outright and switched to T-Mobile for 3-4 months and was getting 300-500mbps down, 50mbps up and saving almost $200/mo compared to my Triple Play BS. I went to the physical store to cancel and turn in my DVR and CM and when the CS asked what he could do to make me stay with them I said, "Give me unlimited 400-500mbps Internet for $50-60/mo" and the perplexed look on his face said it all as he said, "there is no way we can match that but if you sign up for Xfinity Mobile we might be able to offer a package deal that would bring that into range. How much do you pay for your Cell service?" I said, "$100/mo for 4 lines unlimited everything." And he just smiled and said, "I'll go ahead and cancel your Xfinity service."

 

Right about 3 months in wiith T-Mobile, Xfinity shifted their pricing and bombarded me with "come back please!" and just like that they had a package that matched T-Mobile but obviously with much better latency than 5G so I switched back but only for Internet for $55.99/mo and here we are.

 

Honestly, I don't feel much of a difference between my old 1.2gbps and 500mbps 99% of the time unless I'm installing a new game and even then I just set to download, minimize and go do other stuff.

 

They give you a "free" Xfinity streaming box with all tiers of their Internet packages that basically is a glorified version of their DVR and you have to pay for everything to enable services on it. It has been sitting in my cabinet gathering dust since day one hook up when I realized it was just a means to try and get you to sign back up for their classic packages 2.0.

 

I like being able to select which streaming services have enough content for me to turn back on for X months till the well runs dry and I can turn them back off. For example, AppleTV has been off since Feb. I just turned Paramount+ back on after 6 months. Netflix has been off officially for a year now. I'm getting ready to turn Disney+ off and let it build back up. I turned Peacock off last month and won't turn it back on till sometime next year. I do keep Hulu for Fox and ABC.

All of them do really sleazy things. Before we purchased our current home, we owned a house about 1.5 miles from here in a different subdivision. There was no exclusive cable provider kickback scam with Cox like our current HOA. I had a great package with Cox and after a year they decided to jack the price to double, so I switched to Mediacom and got my cable internet at twice the speed and the same price as Cox before they doubled the price. Before making the switch I called the Cox customer-retention department and told them what I was about to do with Mediacom in case they wanted to try and retain my business. The idiot "helping" me just kept reciting a mantra, "I'm sorry Mr. Fox, your package was a time-limited offer and a cannot reinstate it." So, I suggested she find a new line of work because she was failing at her job in customer retention. I pulled the plug and moved to Mediacom. I never looked back and Mediacom was great to deal with.

 

Fast-forward about a year later, we sold that house, purchased this one and when I tried to move my cable internet with Mediacom to the new address they told me "Unfortunately, we are not allowed to provide service to your subdivision due to a contract between Cox and the HOA" and I was like WTH? That's just so wrong and messed up. So, back to Cox with a fantastic deal. Everything was great. It worked well and the price was good. It expired a year later, the price doubled and they again refused to "retain me" after contact with their customer-retention department. Same mantra, different zombie customer-retention rep.

 

So, I switched to T-Mobile 5G and it was horrible here due to a poor signal. It is awesome on my phone, but the home internet was poor at my address. One mile up the road is a strong 500 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up connection. At my home address there was a frequent signal loss, even with an outdoor 5G antenna. At that time, Centurylink 20 Mbps DSL was the only available alternative, so not an acceptable one. I struggled with T-Mobile 5G for 2 months and Cox ran an ad for a special package for Gigabit internet with unlimited data for $50/month. I tried to sign up and they said, "Sorry, this is for new customers only, it has been less than a year since you left so you're not a 'new' customer" so I had my wife call Cox and use her name. They gave it to us. Same last name, same address... she was considered a "new customer" even though I was not, LOL. Stupid. 

 

One year later the price goes to $70. I cringed, but bit the bullet due to no acceptable alternative. One year after that (last month) the price goes from $70 to $108... for internet only. Insane and not worth it. Centurylink began putting in fiber lines 6 months ago and the service just went live last month. I have been on the waiting list for 3 months (when they started taking pre-orders) so it happened just in time. Less than a month of Cox service at the jacked up $108 Mafia scalper rate. Buh-bye Cox. Their name is a fitting and accurate facsimile of the vulgar word describing the part of the male anatomy that is phonetically the same pronunciation.

 

I do Netflix, Paramount+, Discovery+ and all of the free streaming channels. We use our kids accounts for a couple of additional streaming services and they use ours for a couple. So far none of the providers have stopped it. I cancelled Disney+ when they suddenly got extra-stupid with their woke cancel-culture nonsense. I think it was the campaign against Gina Carano when I told them to go mate with themselves. Now that they are remaking all of their movies with politically-correct liberation theology/equality white privilege propaganda I will never subscribe again and plan to boycott all Disney movies going forward. I canceled my Planet Fitness membership at the same time and moved to EOS because Planet started belligerently spamming my phone and email multiple times per day with gay crap, and plastering their walls at the gym with disgusting propaganda posters during "Pride Month" and I told them to shove their woke garbage up their limp-wristed lover's tailpipe.

 

I think I will use the money saved on the fiber internet and cancelled woke businesses to level-up on my Second Amendment load-out and stockpile some extra ammo... just in case, LOL.

  

3 hours ago, tps3443 said:

This pump has a built in flow meter and temp sensor. But, it’s just a hassle to calibrate it properly. 
 

(1) You need specific Aqua Computer coolant for the flow sensor to work, or you could maybe mix something up that would be consistent to make the sensor read my water. 
(2) You can only have this (1) pump running during calibration process, that’s not exactly possible. This one pump can’t even turn water in my loop, as the calibration process drops to 0% then slowly moves up during calibration lol. 
(3) You are supposed to pinch off/block flow during calibration and release the tube after it’s done? Why would I do this 😂

(4) Water temp needs to be 33C or higher for proper calibration to work. (Not gonna happen) 

 

So, it pumps and it tells me my water temp. I’m okay with that. I’ve got a mechanical flow sensor on the way that I will piggy back off of the pump and run on its own tube, and the flow rate from the sensor will display on the pump but it will be an accurate reading from a mechanical sensor. 
 

It also seems less powerful than my brand new VPP655T. That it replaced. Power usage shows 19.5 watts from the pump. 
 

I’m still struggling with my loop. Air is getting in somehow. I have leak tested my pumps, my blocks, and I took apart my supercool. The only thing I can think of is maybe my Koolance QD3’s are introducing air in through the cpu block and it’s slowly filling up air in my system. I already tore down my supercool tonight and leak tested it on both sides and it is 100%. The air slowly builds in the chiller tank, and I have to shake it out in to my reservoir. 
 

I can see teeny tiny air bubbles in my supercool block so I think it may be coming from my QD3’s. I also took them off and put some o ring grease and put them back on. 

Is your tank higher than the chiller? If the air in the tank is not the highest point in the loop that could be somehow contributing to the issue. It will be interesting to see if I run into a similar situation when I reconfigure my system with the water tank.

 

Anything is possible, but I have been using QD3 fittings for years and haven't experience them allowing air into my loop or leaking while they are connected. I have had the female fittings stick open after disconnecting them, but that was due to the black anodize finish on the male part getting scratched and scraped and the particles from that jamming up the female portion. I stopped buying black and have been replacing them with chrome and the chrome fittings never stick open like the black ones.

 

I think it may be something related to location of the pumps in the loop or something else related to the addition of the tank if that is when it started. Finding the source of something like this can be tedious and frustrating.

 

Have the tiny bubbles affected your temperatures? If not and everything is working correctly other than the visible bubbles, then it might not be something to be overly worried about.

 

[tps3443]

@Mr. Fox it really is a lot of air that accumulates after just 1.5 hours lol, if it was just a little I would not bother.. The only thing that’s different is my inlet pushing water back in to my tank is not submerged so my tank sounds like a gold fish pond, but my outlet pumping water out of the tank and in to my PC is always submerged. My water tank is slightly lower than my water chiller. 
 

Do you think the outlet not being submerged could be causing problem? The tank is open and not sealed. 
 

When I shake my chiller it will totally air up the whole 1-2Ft of water tubing. And it keeps on pushing air from my chiller while shaking/tilting the chiller. Then it stops and slows down. And re-builds after another 1-2 hours. The pump noises are the most annoying though. 
 

I had the same problem when the tank was sitting on my desk, and it was well above the chiller then. Seeing the tiny air bubbles in my water block only made me think that was where it’s coming from. But I leak tested my block really well without the QD3’s. So it could possibly be the QD3’s. I have torn apart and reassembled every pump and re-leak tested every block. Only think I did not test were my (2-3) 45 degree fittings, I should have left those and capped them. I also have been clipped off each 1” of tubing for a fresh tube to fitting connection just to make sure the tubes are not loose. It really is tough finding this leak that doesn’t leak 🤣
 

 

EDIT: (I am tilting the tank so my back to tank inlet is submerged, and ai am gonna see if my chiller still fills with air) 

[Raiderman]

On 10/13/2023 at 1:54 AM, Mr. Fox said:

That's strange. The Strix Z690-E that I used to have had it. Maybe they removed it in a BIOS update downgrade.

  

You're correct in doubting it. Sapphire was an ATi AIB before they were purchased by AMD back in the day before NVIDIA displaced them as the world's premier GPU ODM. My last ATi (pre-AMD) Radeon All-in-Wonder Pro and Rage Pro (circa 1996-1997) were made by Sapphire. They have always been ATi/AMD-only. PCIe did not even exist back then. The cutting edge GPU slot back then was AGP and the VRAM was measured in MB instead of GB.

 

The Accelerated Graphics Port was the bomb back then, otherwise you were stuck with onboard MB graphics, or a standard PCI slot. My 16mb Nivida Riva TNT card was the shiat! Yes, for the younger gen, motherboards came with onboard graphics sometimes, and you think Intels onboard CPU graphics suck?

 

 

[tps3443]

Here is the issue I am having.

 

https://youtu.be/Hmkt-DMrJcw?si=QIDCQl9ZGrhmrGD8

[Mr. Fox]

4 hours ago, tps3443 said:

Here is the issue I am having.

 

https://youtu.be/Hmkt-DMrJcw?si=QIDCQl9ZGrhmrGD8

I think I see the problem. It looks like the tubing leading into your CPU block is the highest point in the loop. The point of air accumulation will always end up being the highest point, because air rises to the surface. I don't think you'll ever be able to correct that until the lines leading into the chiller or the top of the water tank end up being elevated above the highest point in the loop so all air accumulates there. In order for it to work the way it is right now it would have to defy the laws of physics.

 

Try reinstalling your pump and reservoir combo on the side of the bench again so that becomes the high point. Only have one pump between the tank and PC and put most of the pump power on the return side of the loop. You can stand the tank on end so the lines are in and out of the top the same as the chiller and that will eliminate any air inside the tank. This will force all of the air to go up to the top of the reservoir.

 

Another alternative would be to stand the tank on the end next to the PC on your desk so that the lines are going in and out of the top of the tank. That will become the highest point in the loop. Put a tube on the outlet fitting inside of the tank and thread it into the inside of the brass fitting like an oil sump pickup tube on your car engine so that the line leaving the tank has the pickup tube always submerged in water.

[cylix]

 

[ryan]

Finally have my system setup the way I like with all my games ill never play lol. its nice having a finished system but changing settings ect is half the fun. cpu is performing well with cooler gpu is meh. heres my stock performance with temps never breaking 71c

 

[electrosoft]

43 minutes ago, cylix said:

 

 

That's not bad on an air cooler and a POS Z690 motherboard. It's about what is to be expected.

 

Once he gets his Z790/DDR5 combo (with what I will assume are stronger VRMs) and re-assembles his custom loop it will fly.

 

 

[Izy]

my timespy is increasing but still down on gpu/cpu  best i have is 27th somehow my gpu is still down 200 points from my best but cpu score has increased 3K

 

 

 

firestrike on the other hand

 

[Mr. Fox]

So, my second 13900KS finally arrived from Germany. It took like 16 days to get here using "priority mail" LOL. E-core SP rating is much higher and P-core VIDs are much lower even though the SP-rating on the P-cores is the same. MC rating is a bit lower, but I doubt that is going to affect anything. I am running it at 8600 with the same memory OC profile and I think the MC SP rating is the same as @tps3443CPU so it should be fine. I will delid it either tomorrow or next weekend. I am running the Optimus block on it for now.

 

[tps3443]

11 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

So, my second 13900KS finally arrived from Germany. It took like 16 days to get here using "priority mail" LOL. E-core SP rating is much higher and P-core VIDs are much lower even though the SP-rating on the P-cores is the same. MC rating is a bit lower, but I doubt that is going to affect anything. I am running it at 8600 with the same memory OC profile and I think the MC SP rating is the same as @tps3443CPU so it should be fine. I will delid it either tomorrow or next weekend. I am running the Optimus block on it for now.

 

Big difference in the 5.8Ghz VID’s and 5.4Ghz, that is gonna reflect in real world. The biggest difference is E-Cores. You’re lucky because those make the largest difference in multithreaded. You will easily run all those at 4.8 without jumping off a cliff with voltage and heat. My current chip needs LOTS of extra juice to push 4.8E. I’d be curious to see how the ring is too. My ring sucks on my KS 🤣 it’s 5.0Ghz and that’s IT! 5.1 ring will lock up on me 🙃

[Papusan]

On 10/14/2023 at 1:07 AM, Papusan said:

AMD Counter-Strikes Itself, Pulls Driver After Anti-Lag Feature Causes CS2 Bans AMD's latest Radeon driver makes Valve's anti-cheat system think that the user is cheating.

 

AMD quickly withdrew its latest Radeon driver this afternoon because using it with Valve's Counter Strike 2 could result in a ban by the Valve Anti-Cheat tool (h/t @9550pro). AMD promises to fix the issue, whereas Valve plans to identify affected users and reverse their ban once everything returns to normal.

 

Meanwhile, the latest AMD Software: Adrenalin Edition 23.10.1 driver also supports three major titles: Assassin's Creed Mirage, The Lords of the Fallen, and Forza Motorsport. Therefore, the retraction affects gamers who want to play these titles with the latest drivers.

AMD also introduced crashes, and performance issues in other popular multiplayer titles with their newest driver. As always, new/newer is always better bro @ryan😀

 

AMD's Anti-Lag+ issues causing bans, crashes, and other issues in several online games

Preventing users from playing games might not be the best approach to reducing lag

 

 

@tps3443 Have you tried remove the new tank and see if the problems go away?

 

 

[Mr. Fox]

1 hour ago, Papusan said:

@tps3443 Have you tried remove the new tank and see if the problems go away?

He will need to confirm that the problem is resolved, but I believe moving the chiller or tank higher than his PC fixed the issue. Before adding the tank his 300mm reservoir was the high point. Hopefully so, as it was understandably frustrating.

[Vasudev]

On 10/8/2023 at 2:33 AM, Mr. Fox said:

I really am looking forward to seeing how Battlemage works out. 

 

If I were buying a GPU today and wanted the best performance, 4090 is the only logical option. The price is idiotic, even for the cheapest one, but still "worth it" in the general sense that it is better to overpay for something good than to overpay for something not so good. If I could not purchase a 4090, the next option would be 4080 if I needed one today. It is a poor value and I would try very hard to come up with the extra $400-$500 to purchase a 4090 instead. But, I would not even consider the other options new and I would settle for something used from last generation rather than settle for an AMD GPU or something castrated like a 4070 Ti scam product.

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Well, Kryosheet is crap. Doesn't work worth a damn,  unless you think normal high end thermal pastes are good. In that case it is probably awesome. It just can't handle an overclocked 13900KS at all. It performs on par with popular thermal pastes, which is unacceptable for an overclocked CPU. I view it as a totally unusable product for that. I saved it with zero damage and may try it on my laptop someday when I run out of things to do. @Papusanyou were curious. How 'bout no, LOL.

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Brother @Talonsent me a tube of Honeywell PTM7958. Thank you so much! It performs about the same as KPX or other popular thermal pastes. So, yeah... not good enough for an overclocked 13900KS. It performed almost exactly the same as the Kryosheet. So, back to the liquid metal. No other good option available.

 

This stuff was not fun to spread. It is like clay, softened wax or softened kneaded eraser, and it takes a lot of pressure to even get it out of the syringe. It is not very sticky. It is much firmer than the thermal putty EVGA used on the 3090 KPE VRMs. I did spread it and got excellent coverage. It will be amazing for a laptop or a GPU that doesn't pull as many watts. There is no question in my mind that it will be durable, and the perfect solution for sloppy-fitting turdbook heat sinks. This is perfect for that. It is easily removed using a thermal paste spatula. It comes off like soft wax. When I need to repaste the 4090 I will probably use the PTM7958 paste. The pad equivalent worked amazing on the 6900 XT and the 4090 doesn't get nearly as hot as the 6900 XT. Removing my water block, it pulled the CPU (that was taped down for bare die) out of the socket. It suck well enough that the tape could not hold it down.

I got it more than hot enough to melt, and it absolutely melted and got phenomenal coverage. I let my system cool overnight to normalize with ambient temperature and tried it again this morning and the temps were as unacceptable as they were last night. I did not save a screenshot. I must have forgotten. But, there's nothing to see. Look at the Kryosheet temps (above) and shuffle the core order and that's what it was. Same thing basically. 

I didn't know Kryosheet couldn't handle 13900KS when the site says it can be used OC and sub ambient and Liq. Nitrogen cooling. Its weird it cannot cool 350W+ monster. I usually cut my carbonaut or IC diamond HC pads to fit within the bare die. Carbonaut almost turns charred after burn-in period and its not reusable.  This is the new HC pad (5 pack) I've been using for couple after carbonaut became too expensive with import duty from Germany.

[Mr. Fox]

48 minutes ago, Vasudev said:

I didn't know Kryosheet couldn't handle 13900KS when the site says it can be used OC and sub ambient and Liq. Nitrogen cooling. Its weird it cannot cool 350W+ monster. I usually cut my carbonaut or IC diamond HC pads to fit within the bare die. Carbonaut almost turns charred after burn-in period and its not reusable.  This is the new HC pad (5 pack) I've been using for couple after carbonaut became too expensive with import duty from Germany.

Yes, unfortunately, it just can keep up even on bare die. It does not even come close to comparing with liquid metal. I had hoped that it would. However, it is a good last-forever substitue for quality thermal paste. Results are about the same as KPX or MX-6. And, the advertisement is not wrong. It would work better for extreme cooling like LN2, because liquid metal cannot work in severe cold conditions like LN2 and DICE. You would have to use something else, so the advertisement is totally accurate in that respect. It would likely be very good for that. As an important side note, you also do not want to delid a CPU if you are going to use it on LN2 or DICE. Best to leave the IHS soldered. It works better and is safer for the CPU.

[ryan]

how does the graphite compare to the ptm 7950 phase change pads?

 

also has anyone cough @Mr. Fox checked out the new call of duty? does it run well(optimised)

[Mr. Fox]

5 hours ago, ryan said:

how does the graphite compare to the ptm 7950 phase change pads?

 

also has anyone cough @Mr. Fox checked out the new call of duty? does it run well(optimised)

I would guess it is about the same, but that could vary from one system to the next on laptops depending on how good the heatsink contact and pressure is. The Honeywell pad works well because fit leaves something to be desired on most laptops. Brother @Vasudevmight be able to answer based on his experience. I did try the IC Diamond Graphite pad on a laptop several years ago and it was absolutely horrible... far worse than any thermal paste.

 

I love Call of Duty, but I do not buy new releases in most cases. They are generally $40-$50 more than I am willing to spend on a game, so I wait for the price to fall to $20-$30 even when it is a title I am very fond of. Crysis releases have generally been one of the rare exceptions. I did pass on the last release of Call of Duty that had no single-player campaign. I do not play online multi-player and that made it worthless to me.

[Papusan]

No price increase for the Intel Core 14000 series

• Processors
• today 11:22

Fresh images confirm that the Core 14000 "Raptor Lake Refresh" for desktops will retain the same target price as the previous generation.

 

[ryan]

Its alright, I downloaded the multiplayer beta that is on offer at steam. im getting 35fps average at 4k/high which is really good for a 2023 game, seems well optimised but as usual game looks meh, 2005-2006 graphics. gameplay is nice, just not a fan of multiplayer at the moment.