Clevo P775 power limit?

[tway]

Hello, I've recently picked up a Clevo P775TM1 (Metabox P775TM-G) for a decent price, however it has a critical issue I'm struggling to fix which the seller had not mentioned. The specs from my specific rebrand are as follows:

 

Model: Metabox Prime-X P775TM-G
Display: 17.3" FHD 1920 x 1080p WVA Matte 144Hz LED
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 8GB GDDR6 VRAM with G-Sync
Processor: Intel Core i7-9700K Octa Core (12M Cache, up to 4.90 GHz)
Memory: 32GB DDR4 2666MHZ (2 x 16GB)
Hard Drive: 1 x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB PCle M.2, 1x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB PCle M.2 (1.5TB total) 
Wireless: Intel 9260 AC Dual Band WIFI/BT (up to 1.73 Gbps) 

 

Whenever I open a game (e.g. basic Minecraft), the laptop has a tendency to completely shut off as if power to it is cut. I have taken it apart and cleaned all the dust out, and repasted both CPU and GPU. Monitoring temperatures during the shut off with HWInfo I can rule out overheating from being the culprit as CPU is around 70C and GPU around 60C when this occurs, with the laptop hotspots not even being warm to the touch. I've also attempted to run multiple stress tests on it, including Furmark and OCCT. Both chips reached extreme temperatures during the tests and throttled however I did not experience a shut off in either tests, only once upon launching Furmark (I have launched it numerous times). The OCCT Power test reported the CPU not exceeding 100W during the test while the GPU pulled a maximum of 150W (these will be important for later).

 

Interestingly, when running completely on battery I could not replicate this issue whatsoever no matter what I did, and removing the battery itself before plugging in the adapter and testing it again still caused it to shut down under the same conditions so I assume it can't be the battery. In the rare case where it does not immediately shut off under those circumstances, I could instead hear a high pitched electrical noise coming from either the PSU or from within the laptop itself (or both, could be coil whine?) I am using the original 330W brick, and I've also tried a completely new 330W brick which was provided with the laptop but the issue still persists across both bricks.

 

Most of the time this issue occurs when I switch into full screen mode, it immediately shuts off with no warning as if there's a power surge. Recklessly opening up background apps while tabbed out of a game can also lead to the same result. I noticed that turning on G-sync, or limitting the FPS in general decreases the chance of the issue occuring and I can play the game mostly fine, however by doing some of the things listed above I can still intentionally induce a sudden shut down. It's important to note that while doing basic tasks like browsing or watching YouTube this issue does not occur. I am planning to use this laptop for instensive graphical applications so I can't settle for that. Both Windows 11 and Windows 10 had the same result so it's not OS related.

 

Given these specific circumstances, my current suspicion is that the 330W power brick may not be providing enough power and when the laptop exceeds this 330W limit it shuts off, just like a regular PC would with an underpowered PSU. I have not tried running both chargers at once as I do not have a Y splitter for the two 330W adapters and it is quite expensive. 

 

Would my suspicion be correct? Should I purchase a Y splitter (or even the 780W adapter) and try running it off both 330W PSUs? Does this laptop model require 330W+ with fully loaded CPU and GPU, how much power do these machines generally pull? The reason I am a bit sceptical is because this laptop actually shipped from Metabox with only a single 330W brick, so I assumed that's how it was intended to be used. Could this instead be a poor bios configuration, even if I reset everything to default? Would there be any other ways I could test this theory to see if it's correct before I purchase anything else for it? Could this be a much bigger hardware issue than a PSU? 

 

I have seen so many accomplishments with Clevo machines here that are way beyond me, just thought maybe with such a knowledgeable community I would be able to find some assistance since it might be a simple fix.

 

Thanks for everyone's time

[runix18]

On 3/14/2025 at 6:48 PM, tway said:

Hello, I've recently picked up a Clevo P775TM1 (Metabox P775TM-G) for a decent price, however it has a critical issue I'm struggling to fix which the seller had not mentioned. The specs from my specific rebrand are as follows:

 

Model: Metabox Prime-X P775TM-G
Display: 17.3" FHD 1920 x 1080p WVA Matte 144Hz LED
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 8GB GDDR6 VRAM with G-Sync
Processor: Intel Core i7-9700K Octa Core (12M Cache, up to 4.90 GHz)
Memory: 32GB DDR4 2666MHZ (2 x 16GB)
Hard Drive: 1 x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB PCle M.2, 1x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB PCle M.2 (1.5TB total) 
Wireless: Intel 9260 AC Dual Band WIFI/BT (up to 1.73 Gbps) 

 

Whenever I open a game (e.g. basic Minecraft), the laptop has a tendency to completely shut off as if power to it is cut. I have taken it apart and cleaned all the dust out, and repasted both CPU and GPU. Monitoring temperatures during the shut off with HWInfo I can rule out overheating from being the culprit as CPU is around 70C and GPU around 60C when this occurs, with the laptop hotspots not even being warm to the touch. I've also attempted to run multiple stress tests on it, including Furmark and OCCT. Both chips reached extreme temperatures during the tests and throttled however I did not experience a shut off in either tests, only once upon launching Furmark (I have launched it numerous times). The OCCT Power test reported the CPU not exceeding 100W during the test while the GPU pulled a maximum of 150W (these will be important for later).

 

Interestingly, when running completely on battery I could not replicate this issue whatsoever no matter what I did, and removing the battery itself before plugging in the adapter and testing it again still caused it to shut down under the same conditions so I assume it can't be the battery. In the rare case where it does not immediately shut off under those circumstances, I could instead hear a high pitched electrical noise coming from either the PSU or from within the laptop itself (or both, could be coil whine?) I am using the original 330W brick, and I've also tried a completely new 330W brick which was provided with the laptop but the issue still persists across both bricks.

 

Most of the time this issue occurs when I switch into full screen mode, it immediately shuts off with no warning as if there's a power surge. Recklessly opening up background apps while tabbed out of a game can also lead to the same result. I noticed that turning on G-sync, or limitting the FPS in general decreases the chance of the issue occuring and I can play the game mostly fine, however by doing some of the things listed above I can still intentionally induce a sudden shut down. It's important to note that while doing basic tasks like browsing or watching YouTube this issue does not occur. I am planning to use this laptop for instensive graphical applications so I can't settle for that. Both Windows 11 and Windows 10 had the same result so it's not OS related.

 

Given these specific circumstances, my current suspicion is that the 330W power brick may not be providing enough power and when the laptop exceeds this 330W limit it shuts off, just like a regular PC would with an underpowered PSU. I have not tried running both chargers at once as I do not have a Y splitter for the two 330W adapters and it is quite expensive. 

 

Would my suspicion be correct? Should I purchase a Y splitter (or even the 780W adapter) and try running it off both 330W PSUs? Does this laptop model require 330W+ with fully loaded CPU and GPU, how much power do these machines generally pull? The reason I am a bit sceptical is because this laptop actually shipped from Metabox with only a single 330W brick, so I assumed that's how it was intended to be used. Could this instead be a poor bios configuration, even if I reset everything to default? Would there be any other ways I could test this theory to see if it's correct before I purchase anything else for it? Could this be a much bigger hardware issue than a PSU? 

 

I have seen so many accomplishments with Clevo machines here that are way beyond me, just thought maybe with such a knowledgeable community I would be able to find some assistance since it might be a simple fix.

 

Thanks for everyone's time

330W should be enogh to run this spec at stock clocks. 

 

From what I can deduce, most likely you have insuficient cooling/contact of the thermal pads with the power mosfets (check CPU/heatsink side on the motherboard and GPU/heatsink for proper pad contact).

 

Second and worst scenario is a bad mosfet on GPU, most probably on the memory side.

[tway]

Hey, thanks for responding I really appreciate any ideas I can get.

 

Are you sure it's the power mosfets which are causing problems? I can use it completely fine with no issues if it's unplugged and using battery (I couldn't get it to turn off running the same intensive graphical applications while using the rtx 2080 on battery).

 

I also found out it's actually flashed with Prema bios (version 1.07.MTBX2), upon researching it seems some other people also had issues with Prema bios including random shutdowns and other instabilities (although with older clevo models, not mine). Resetting the values to default doesn't help at all, but there are so many settings and I don't know what each one does.

 

Should I try flashing the bios? I don't have the stock bios image and don't know if I'll be able to get it, but if you're certain it's a mosfet issue I wouldn't bother. The fact it works perfectly on battery under the same load which otherwise causes it to shut off when plugged in is what makes me think it may not necessarily be a critical hardware issue requiring component replacement. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Thanks again

[1610ftw]

As a baseline and to see what is happening when you change things you may want to check power uptake when you start a game - if that causes a power consumption spike to 450W I would expect the laptop to shut down but I somehow doubt that is happening. In any case getting a good meter to measure power draw is recommended.

 

Then the first thing I would try is to reset the bios - all kinds of obscure settings could have been fiddled with in a prema bios and you may never get to the bottom of it.

That is unless others advise against it but it would be the first thing to do for me with all these settings being exposed.

 

As for running fine on battery this is no surprise at all as total power uptake from the battery is likely less than 100W - not a surprise that this would work.

 

 

 

 

[ShifflyTheSHO]

Does anybody know how get my 4 sticks of RAM back to 3200mhz? 
 

——

 

I had this CMS 3200mhz CL16 4x8GB kit off of Amazon that I returned, but I was running CL18 with stability at some timings at 3200mhz!!, but forgot what I adjusted on my motherboard (Z170) or my processor (i9-9900kf)

 

I’m trying to get back to 3200mhz so O can have some bandwidth again, and everybsetting I try drops me back to 2400mhz in the Windows environment.  It was my first attempt at overclocking RAM and it was a grand slam!  I got mad and returned them and I’m running a mixed kit of Micro CL22 and unknown cheap set that used to shut off my computer, but I split the kits up onto separate channels and I’ve been at a nice, stable 2400mhz.

 

I DO NOT WANT TO RUN 4 STICKS!!! That is so much slower on startup and in everything else; why do people only run 2 of 4 kits when manufactures gave you four and they out perform anything else with two slots?  Its like driving high revving sports car with donuts on the drive wheels.

 

But anyways, do I need to adjust anything beyond the SA and IO voltage? I can no longer seem to go beyond 1100 mV (1.1 V) on either without my system being caught in a loop.  How do I adjust the memory controller properly?
 

 I change the latency and set it to relearn, but should I try for 3033mHz?

 

dsanke BIOS, and my keyboard is off currently from having to pull the CMOS so many damn times.

 

(my processor can also undervolt to -0.150.  Should I not?)