tway Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Hello, I've recently picked up a Clevo P775TM1 (Metabox P775TM-G) for a decent price, however it has a critical issue I'm struggling to fix which the seller had not mentioned. The specs from my specific rebrand are as follows: Model: Metabox Prime-X P775TM-G Display: 17.3" FHD 1920 x 1080p WVA Matte 144Hz LED Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 8GB GDDR6 VRAM with G-Sync Processor: Intel Core i7-9700K Octa Core (12M Cache, up to 4.90 GHz) Memory: 32GB DDR4 2666MHZ (2 x 16GB) Hard Drive: 1 x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB PCle M.2, 1x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB PCle M.2 (1.5TB total) Wireless: Intel 9260 AC Dual Band WIFI/BT (up to 1.73 Gbps) Whenever I open a game (e.g. basic Minecraft), the laptop has a tendency to completely shut off as if power to it is cut. I have taken it apart and cleaned all the dust out, and repasted both CPU and GPU. Monitoring temperatures during the shut off with HWInfo I can rule out overheating from being the culprit as CPU is around 70C and GPU around 60C when this occurs, with the laptop hotspots not even being warm to the touch. I've also attempted to run multiple stress tests on it, including Furmark and OCCT. Both chips reached extreme temperatures during the tests and throttled however I did not experience a shut off in either tests, only once upon launching Furmark (I have launched it numerous times). The OCCT Power test reported the CPU not exceeding 100W during the test while the GPU pulled a maximum of 150W (these will be important for later). Interestingly, when running completely on battery I could not replicate this issue whatsoever no matter what I did, and removing the battery itself before plugging in the adapter and testing it again still caused it to shut down under the same conditions so I assume it can't be the battery. In the rare case where it does not immediately shut off under those circumstances, I could instead hear a high pitched electrical noise coming from either the PSU or from within the laptop itself (or both, could be coil whine?) I am using the original 330W brick, and I've also tried a completely new 330W brick which was provided with the laptop but the issue still persists across both bricks. Most of the time this issue occurs when I switch into full screen mode, it immediately shuts off with no warning as if there's a power surge. Recklessly opening up background apps while tabbed out of a game can also lead to the same result. I noticed that turning on G-sync, or limitting the FPS in general decreases the chance of the issue occuring and I can play the game mostly fine, however by doing some of the things listed above I can still intentionally induce a sudden shut down. It's important to note that while doing basic tasks like browsing or watching YouTube this issue does not occur. I am planning to use this laptop for instensive graphical applications so I can't settle for that. Both Windows 11 and Windows 10 had the same result so it's not OS related. Given these specific circumstances, my current suspicion is that the 330W power brick may not be providing enough power and when the laptop exceeds this 330W limit it shuts off, just like a regular PC would with an underpowered PSU. I have not tried running both chargers at once as I do not have a Y splitter for the two 330W adapters and it is quite expensive. Would my suspicion be correct? Should I purchase a Y splitter (or even the 780W adapter) and try running it off both 330W PSUs? Does this laptop model require 330W+ with fully loaded CPU and GPU, how much power do these machines generally pull? The reason I am a bit sceptical is because this laptop actually shipped from Metabox with only a single 330W brick, so I assumed that's how it was intended to be used. Could this instead be a poor bios configuration, even if I reset everything to default? Would there be any other ways I could test this theory to see if it's correct before I purchase anything else for it? Could this be a much bigger hardware issue than a PSU? I have seen so many accomplishments with Clevo machines here that are way beyond me, just thought maybe with such a knowledgeable community I would be able to find some assistance since it might be a simple fix. Thanks for everyone's time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runix18 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 On 3/14/2025 at 6:48 PM, tway said: Hello, I've recently picked up a Clevo P775TM1 (Metabox P775TM-G) for a decent price, however it has a critical issue I'm struggling to fix which the seller had not mentioned. The specs from my specific rebrand are as follows: Model: Metabox Prime-X P775TM-G Display: 17.3" FHD 1920 x 1080p WVA Matte 144Hz LED Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 8GB GDDR6 VRAM with G-Sync Processor: Intel Core i7-9700K Octa Core (12M Cache, up to 4.90 GHz) Memory: 32GB DDR4 2666MHZ (2 x 16GB) Hard Drive: 1 x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB PCle M.2, 1x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB PCle M.2 (1.5TB total) Wireless: Intel 9260 AC Dual Band WIFI/BT (up to 1.73 Gbps) Whenever I open a game (e.g. basic Minecraft), the laptop has a tendency to completely shut off as if power to it is cut. I have taken it apart and cleaned all the dust out, and repasted both CPU and GPU. Monitoring temperatures during the shut off with HWInfo I can rule out overheating from being the culprit as CPU is around 70C and GPU around 60C when this occurs, with the laptop hotspots not even being warm to the touch. I've also attempted to run multiple stress tests on it, including Furmark and OCCT. Both chips reached extreme temperatures during the tests and throttled however I did not experience a shut off in either tests, only once upon launching Furmark (I have launched it numerous times). The OCCT Power test reported the CPU not exceeding 100W during the test while the GPU pulled a maximum of 150W (these will be important for later). Interestingly, when running completely on battery I could not replicate this issue whatsoever no matter what I did, and removing the battery itself before plugging in the adapter and testing it again still caused it to shut down under the same conditions so I assume it can't be the battery. In the rare case where it does not immediately shut off under those circumstances, I could instead hear a high pitched electrical noise coming from either the PSU or from within the laptop itself (or both, could be coil whine?) I am using the original 330W brick, and I've also tried a completely new 330W brick which was provided with the laptop but the issue still persists across both bricks. Most of the time this issue occurs when I switch into full screen mode, it immediately shuts off with no warning as if there's a power surge. Recklessly opening up background apps while tabbed out of a game can also lead to the same result. I noticed that turning on G-sync, or limitting the FPS in general decreases the chance of the issue occuring and I can play the game mostly fine, however by doing some of the things listed above I can still intentionally induce a sudden shut down. It's important to note that while doing basic tasks like browsing or watching YouTube this issue does not occur. I am planning to use this laptop for instensive graphical applications so I can't settle for that. Both Windows 11 and Windows 10 had the same result so it's not OS related. Given these specific circumstances, my current suspicion is that the 330W power brick may not be providing enough power and when the laptop exceeds this 330W limit it shuts off, just like a regular PC would with an underpowered PSU. I have not tried running both chargers at once as I do not have a Y splitter for the two 330W adapters and it is quite expensive. Would my suspicion be correct? Should I purchase a Y splitter (or even the 780W adapter) and try running it off both 330W PSUs? Does this laptop model require 330W+ with fully loaded CPU and GPU, how much power do these machines generally pull? The reason I am a bit sceptical is because this laptop actually shipped from Metabox with only a single 330W brick, so I assumed that's how it was intended to be used. Could this instead be a poor bios configuration, even if I reset everything to default? Would there be any other ways I could test this theory to see if it's correct before I purchase anything else for it? Could this be a much bigger hardware issue than a PSU? I have seen so many accomplishments with Clevo machines here that are way beyond me, just thought maybe with such a knowledgeable community I would be able to find some assistance since it might be a simple fix. Thanks for everyone's time 330W should be enogh to run this spec at stock clocks. From what I can deduce, most likely you have insuficient cooling/contact of the thermal pads with the power mosfets (check CPU/heatsink side on the motherboard and GPU/heatsink for proper pad contact). Second and worst scenario is a bad mosfet on GPU, most probably on the memory side. Desktop - MSI X670E Tomahawk Wifi (cheap Ebay mobo that I fixed) | AMD 9800X3D | 64GB Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 6000MHz CL30 Dual Channel Kit | MSI RTX 4070TI Suprim X | Alienware 27 AW2724DM 2K 165 Hz Gsync | Samsung 990 Pro Nvme - Boot | Other various storage | Windows 11 Enterprise x64 SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 Hey, thanks for responding I really appreciate any ideas I can get. Are you sure it's the power mosfets which are causing problems? I can use it completely fine with no issues if it's unplugged and using battery (I couldn't get it to turn off running the same intensive graphical applications while using the rtx 2080 on battery). I also found out it's actually flashed with Prema bios (version 1.07.MTBX2), upon researching it seems some other people also had issues with Prema bios including random shutdowns and other instabilities (although with older clevo models, not mine). Resetting the values to default doesn't help at all, but there are so many settings and I don't know what each one does. Should I try flashing the bios? I don't have the stock bios image and don't know if I'll be able to get it, but if you're certain it's a mosfet issue I wouldn't bother. The fact it works perfectly on battery under the same load which otherwise causes it to shut off when plugged in is what makes me think it may not necessarily be a critical hardware issue requiring component replacement. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1610ftw Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 As a baseline and to see what is happening when you change things you may want to check power uptake when you start a game - if that causes a power consumption spike to 450W I would expect the laptop to shut down but I somehow doubt that is happening. In any case getting a good meter to measure power draw is recommended. Then the first thing I would try is to reset the bios - all kinds of obscure settings could have been fiddled with in a prema bios and you may never get to the bottom of it. That is unless others advise against it but it would be the first thing to do for me with all these settings being exposed. As for running fine on battery this is no surprise at all as total power uptake from the battery is likely less than 100W - not a surprise that this would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShifflyTheSHO Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Does anybody know how get my 4 sticks of RAM back to 3200mhz? —— I had this CMS 3200mhz CL16 4x8GB kit off of Amazon that I returned, but I was running CL18 with stability at some timings at 3200mhz!!, but forgot what I adjusted on my motherboard (Z170) or my processor (i9-9900kf) I’m trying to get back to 3200mhz so O can have some bandwidth again, and everybsetting I try drops me back to 2400mhz in the Windows environment. It was my first attempt at overclocking RAM and it was a grand slam! I got mad and returned them and I’m running a mixed kit of Micro CL22 and unknown cheap set that used to shut off my computer, but I split the kits up onto separate channels and I’ve been at a nice, stable 2400mhz. I DO NOT WANT TO RUN 4 STICKS!!! That is so much slower on startup and in everything else; why do people only run 2 of 4 kits when manufactures gave you four and they out perform anything else with two slots? Its like driving high revving sports car with donuts on the drive wheels. But anyways, do I need to adjust anything beyond the SA and IO voltage? I can no longer seem to go beyond 1100 mV (1.1 V) on either without my system being caught in a loop. How do I adjust the memory controller properly? I change the latency and set it to relearn, but should I try for 3033mHz? dsanke BIOS, and my keyboard is off currently from having to pull the CMOS so many damn times. (my processor can also undervolt to -0.150. Should I not?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Didn't want to leave this unaddressed in case anyone else has the same issues as me in the future and comes across this thread, but I ended up solving the issue. The problem was actually GPU transients and I've come to realize this is a fairly common problem among high end cards. The way I understand it is that while under a static load the total power consumption may not exceed 330W, these transient spikes cause it to briefly exceed that limit and trigger OCP on the power supply, hence shutting it off. It also makes sense why it only occurred sporadically under high loads when simultaneously doing things like opening a program or simply tabbing out, but not when leaving it under constant loads such as stress tests. I was able to fix it by either underclocking the GPU to ultimately lower the ceiling to which the transients were able to reach (also explains why it works completely fine on battery), or purchasing a splitter for the two 330W adapters to account for this extra power draw, the 780W Eurocom adapter should also work. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incendery Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Intriguing problem, I ran into a similar presentation of an issue with my machine but it came down to load spikes on the CPU causing the VRM to trip OCP (this was set lower as standard on the p775dm3, your tm1 has a higher 180A shutoff limit) I would be suspicious of the GPU causing this as I am unable to cause GPU shutdowns with a shunt modified 3080 on the same mxm power delivery circuitry. what clocks do you have your CPU set too? the Prema bios will have the power limits removed from my understanding. if you run an OCCT avx2 stress test on the CPU what power draw do you get? I was in the past able to comfortably run a stability test in OCCT with CPU + GPU but a CPU test would immediately shut off on initial spike. when running on battery you won't have nearly the power headroom and your CPU will not clock as high so the power draw is lower. I could be wrong entirely but this seems very similar to what I came across 🙂 My Clevo P775dm3 8700k @4.7 3080mxm (180w) 32gb cl18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 On 4/27/2025 at 4:28 PM, incendery said: Intriguing problem, I ran into a similar presentation of an issue with my machine but it came down to load spikes on the CPU causing the VRM to trip OCP (this was set lower as standard on the p775dm3, your tm1 has a higher 180A shutoff limit) I would be suspicious of the GPU causing this as I am unable to cause GPU shutdowns with a shunt modified 3080 on the same mxm power delivery circuitry. what clocks do you have your CPU set too? the Prema bios will have the power limits removed from my understanding. if you run an OCCT avx2 stress test on the CPU what power draw do you get? I was in the past able to comfortably run a stability test in OCCT with CPU + GPU but a CPU test would immediately shut off on initial spike. when running on battery you won't have nearly the power headroom and your CPU will not clock as high so the power draw is lower. I could be wrong entirely but this seems very similar to what I came across 🙂 Hey, this is actually really helpful thanks. Maybe it wasn't the GPU after all since that was just my suspicion for what was happening, and while I seemingly solved the issue I would still like to know the true cause to ensure nothing like this will happen again. My clock speeds for both CPU and GPU should be default as I haven't touched anything in that regard, base speed is set to 3.60 GHz and max turbo is 4.90 GHz. As for the power draw, I haven't gotten around to testing just the CPU by itself but if I recall correctly, the OCCP stability test on CPU + GPU saw the CPU not exceeding 90W and GPU not exceeding around 150W. In my original post I wrote that I was able to get the Furmark GPU stress test to shut the laptop off one time so not sure what's going on there, could that still happen even if the CPU is the culprit? One other observation I made since then was that I can hear some sort of "coil whine" coming from within the laptop itself (not the PSU, maybe it's the VRM), it gets louder/quieter in game whenever I drag the max FPS slider up or down respectively and gets very loud at unlimited FPS. It seems to me your description of the issue sounds very similar to mine so if you don't mind me asking, how were you able to fix it in the end? And what would you recommend I do to prevent this going forward? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoenerBoy123 Posted August 28 Share Posted August 28 I have the same shutdown problem with my P775TM1-G with RTX 2080, 9900K, custom heatsink and the 780W power supply. Installed is the Dsanke bios along EC image of xmg. I’m quite frustrated with this as I’ve never experienced something like that(In such cases it always was the PSU). Would be very nice if someone could help me with this Alienware Area 51 ALX R7 5800X 32GB DDR4 3200MHz RTX 2080 Ti FE (Full Custom Loop) Alienware M18x R2 I7 3840QM 4.2GHz 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1070(Zotac MXM, 10 MOSFETs) Alienware M17x R4 I7 3630QM 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1080 150W 8GB(Zotac MXM 3.0B) MacBook Pro 16 2019 I7 9750H 16GB DDR4 2133MHz Radeon Pro 5300M Cevo P775TM1-G I9 9900K 16GB DDR4 2600MHz RTX 2080 And lot's of other stuff in my hobby corner (old Clevo's 'n' stuff like that)😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted Tuesday at 01:32 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 01:32 PM Gosh, this sounds like the same problem von my XMG Ultra 17 (XUL17E19), using the P775TM1-G platform, also an MXM RTX2080, Intel 9900K CPU. Here is a short video documenting what happens, just to confirm with you, that we are looking at the same symptoms? Furmark benchmark I can run a prime95 benchmark, and I also managed to run a prime95 benchmark and Furmark simultaneously for over two hours before deciding some other issue is causing this. I can trigger the shutdown by either starting Furmark in 4k mode, or alt tabbing back to Windows or stopping it with Esc. The first thing I suspected was the power supply, so I bought an identical one. This wasn't the solution. I managed to find a Canadian supplier for replacement mainboards (didn't buy one yet), however he mentioned this could be down to "power bottleneck", (the GPU increasing its power draw as it ages) and now upon reading most of the comments, this might be easily solved by sourcing a 780W Eurocom power supply? @tway By how much did you underclock the GPU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted Tuesday at 05:26 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 05:26 PM Hey @Kniben, yes those sound like the exact symptoms I'm experiencing from the looks of it. I actually never ended up properly fixing this issue but underclocking the GPU by -700 on core increment in the clevo control centre + enabling G-Sync for both fullscreen and windowed modes seemed to have temporarily solved it and it runs stable with those changes. That is not a good solution whatsoever but it's what works for me until someone comes along and properly diagnoses the issue. I too would like to try the 780W adapter to see if it makes a difference but it's quite expensive and @DoenerBoy123stated that the issue occurs even when using the 780W PSU, so I wouldn't count on it. Someone also mentioned theirs was caused by CPU load spikes and I'd like to test it with a 6700K I have lying around but don't know if it'll work with this model and my current bios and everything. By the way I noticed you mentioned wanting to try a motherboard replacement, I don't know who this Canadian supplier is but I hope you don't give the Eurocom shop on ebay any money, imo they're single handedly damaging and preying on this community by artificially inflating the value of decade old hardware with their aggregious scalper prices. Anyway, I also find it very strange we all started experiencing these identical symptoms at roughly the same time... let me know if you make any more observations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted Tuesday at 08:16 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 08:16 PM I also managed to stop it from happening, by setting core increment to -500, not changing any other settings. Running the benchmark, quitting it, restarting and so on. Many thanks for your tip, @tway As I said, before changing the core increment, I could also trigger the shutdown, by ending the benchmark, which is comparable to a load dump, which also travels to the PSU. Strangely enough, the Canadian mainboard supplier also recommended the 780 W Eurocom adapters. His explanation was plausible though. However I am not ruling out a failure of the VRMs on the GPU or mainboard. The 780W PSUs are roughly the same cost of a used GPU which I could source for around 260,- €. I could probably get another identical 330 W PSU for around 40,- €, wire them up in parallel and see if that solves the problem or hook up a lab power supply capable of delivering 30 A at 19.5 V Since reducing the maximum clock speed also reduces the transients, we are definitely looking at some power issue here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khenglish Posted Tuesday at 08:24 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 08:24 PM The 330W power supply should be fine. These systems have a power limit set by the embedded controller and it can cause shut downs. The 9700K can cause very large, very brief power draw spikes that can trigger a shut down when combined with a GPU load. I recommend using Intel XTU to lower the CPU current limit. This should be much less impactful on performance than undeclocking the GPU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zex4 Posted Wednesday at 07:10 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 07:10 AM I had also problems with shut down but my Clevo 775tm1 don’t cut of power just shut down immediately (like I was hitting the power button)with windows so my hard drives was not rip 😄 it was very annoying…could not fix the problem sadly…it was only on i9-9900k(-100 undervot)paired with 200w Vbios gtx 1080 and double 330w with y adapter…on i7 8700k everything was fine… Mostly on heavy games like star citizen…I had no problems with power Button or windows so 😅 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted Wednesday at 09:09 AM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 09:09 AM @Khenglish thanks for your input. I tried your suggestions and removed the GPU underclock while tweaking some settings in XTU including IccMax and lowering PL1 + disabling PL2 however no matter what I did the issue persisted. It was only when I reapplied the GPU underclock that the issue stopped again so I think it is a GPU power problem. But I may be wrong, what specific changes would you recommend I make in XTU? Appreciate your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoenerBoy123 Posted Wednesday at 10:05 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 10:05 AM I was actually able to solve the issue. Turns out the thermal pads I’ve been using on the gpu VRMs where not thick enough. Now with the proper size I don’t experience these shutdowns anymore and it runs completely fine unter full load. I also improved the airflow by cutting off the plastic grilles above the fans and at the exhaust. The 9900K I’m using runs at 100W PL1 and 120W PL2 and the 2080 runs at 150W max. I you guys haven’t already, I would give it a try and replace those thermal pads. The chockes don’t necessarily need thermal pads, but make sure the FETs have proper contact, they’re much more important. Same goes for the CPU VRMs. I can test if this behavior occurs when using the stock 330W PSU to rule this out as another cause of this problem Alienware Area 51 ALX R7 5800X 32GB DDR4 3200MHz RTX 2080 Ti FE (Full Custom Loop) Alienware M18x R2 I7 3840QM 4.2GHz 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1070(Zotac MXM, 10 MOSFETs) Alienware M17x R4 I7 3630QM 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1080 150W 8GB(Zotac MXM 3.0B) MacBook Pro 16 2019 I7 9750H 16GB DDR4 2133MHz Radeon Pro 5300M Cevo P775TM1-G I9 9900K 16GB DDR4 2600MHz RTX 2080 And lot's of other stuff in my hobby corner (old Clevo's 'n' stuff like that)😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted Wednesday at 04:50 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 04:50 PM Hello again! I have tried reducing CPU parameters with Intel XTU. Core Voltage Offset: -0,050 V (BIOS default) Processor Core IccMax: 150 A -> 75 A Turbo Boost Power Max: 120 W -> 60 W Turbo Boost Short Power Max: 165 W -> 82.5 W effectively halving the values to rule out any power draw from the CPU interfering. I set the GPU Core Increment back to 0. Furmark immediately crashed when attempting the benchmark. Also, I can rule out any thermal issues on the GPU as the reported temperature core temperature was around 65°C before starting it. Setting core increment back to -500, the benchmark runs stable. Also again, torturing the GPU by repeatedly stopping and starting the benchmark, no issues. @DoenerBoy123 Did you experience an immediate shutdown similar to tway's and my problem, or did it happen after some time? I would like you to test again with the stock 330 W power supply, although after limiting power draw by the CPU, I believe Khenglish is correct that 330 W should be enough. PS: I am so glad that I found this thread. Being able to diagnose the problem with others who actually know their stuff is very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoenerBoy123 Posted Wednesday at 06:03 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 06:03 PM @KnibenJust like you I had immediate shutdowns without any throttling or performance drops, just like if you would cut all power to the device. It always came out of nowhere without any noticeable signs Alienware Area 51 ALX R7 5800X 32GB DDR4 3200MHz RTX 2080 Ti FE (Full Custom Loop) Alienware M18x R2 I7 3840QM 4.2GHz 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1070(Zotac MXM, 10 MOSFETs) Alienware M17x R4 I7 3630QM 16GB DDR3 1600MHz GTX 1080 150W 8GB(Zotac MXM 3.0B) MacBook Pro 16 2019 I7 9750H 16GB DDR4 2133MHz Radeon Pro 5300M Cevo P775TM1-G I9 9900K 16GB DDR4 2600MHz RTX 2080 And lot's of other stuff in my hobby corner (old Clevo's 'n' stuff like that)😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted yesterday at 05:23 AM Share Posted yesterday at 05:23 AM @DoenerBoy123I don't have access to new thermal pads at the moment, what thickness are you using? I will dismantle the laptop and take a photo of where the pads are laid out. Perhaps I'm missing a critical area. As for the power draw, I shall try to undervolt the GPU using MSI Afterburner while keeping the clock speed at stock. If successful, at least the performance will be the same. On a tangent, it still be could be the mainboard that's causing this, because that is was is supplying power to the PCI-Express. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1610ftw Posted yesterday at 11:14 AM Share Posted yesterday at 11:14 AM I wanted to post this earlier but it took me some time to remember the context I had seen it in. Before anybody buys a motherboard from a certain company on ebay that I and others have not had the best experiences with please consider the original design of the P775. Especially with a GPU pulling 200W it is easy to see how there would be problems considering the official 250W combined CPU and GPU limit for this chassis that you can see here in comparison to the X170: source: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Clevo-to-release-monster-17-inch-X170-gaming-laptops-powered-by-Intel-s-Comet-Lake-S-10-core-desktop-grade-CPUs.453755.0.html So as @Khenglish points out the embedded controller will most probably cause a shutdown at some point given the relatively low combined TDP and no new motherboard or 780W power supply will change that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted 23 hours ago Author Share Posted 23 hours ago Bruh no way, I had already checked thermal pads and paste after the initial comment by runix but nothing seemed wrong at the time. Today I took the heatsink out and decided to check it against a proper diagram and realized one of the pads was actually too short and didn't cover all the necessary components, whoever placed these before me probably got the wrong size and it would have been very difficult to tell without the diagram. So I added a piece and now I can't get it to shut off even at full power, at least for now. Thanks a lot for the help everyone, can't believe it was a stupid thermal pad causing all this. Just curious @1610ftw which company are you referring to? I think I know who it is but just wanted to make sure so everyone knows who to avoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted 22 hours ago Share Posted 22 hours ago @tway That sounds very promising. I might just try that this evening. Perhaps something is dislodged or so. This was the mainboard supplier on Ebay, I was referring to. Razors Edge by Eurocom Notebooks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1610ftw Posted 22 hours ago Share Posted 22 hours ago 35 minutes ago, tway said: Bruh no way, I had already checked thermal pads and paste after the initial comment by runix but nothing seemed wrong at the time. Today I took the heatsink out and decided to check it against a proper diagram and realized one of the pads was actually too short and didn't cover all the necessary components, whoever placed these before me probably got the wrong size and it would have been very difficult to tell without the diagram. So I added a piece and now I can't get it to shut off even at pull power, at least for now. Thanks a lot for the help everyone, can't believe it was a stupid thermal pad causing all this. Just curious @1610ftw which company are you referring to? I think I know who it is but just wanted to make sure so everyone knows who to avoid First off, glad you got it solved! I think there are a bunch of issues at work here and it would be really cool if somebody could put his power-brick into some kind of watt-o-meter and measure real power draw at the wall. From what I recall the old power bricks that were rated for 330W could go up to 400W and I am not sure how realistic it is to sustain even 330W for any length of time, certainly rather improbable with stock cooling. As you mentioned Eurocom I thought it was clear that I meant them. Personally I didn't have the best experience with their hardware and a software purchase turned out to be a real dumpster fire of a customer experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tway Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago Yeah it's unfortunate the P775 has these design flaws, but also I find your experience with Eurocom crazy... I personally never bought from them since they looked like scammers to me, but for the prices they're charging I expect them to fly out a representative to your doorstep as customer support 😂 who do they think they are charging this much? Apple? They are very clearly trying to exploit us, I have talked to so many private sellers with overpriced Clevo parts who point to the Eurocom ebay shop as a justification. And this is their goal all along, they know exactly what they're doing. Best we can do is not buy from them, I don't know how they aren't out of business or anything by now, some of their items have been sitting for over 2-3 years with no sale. Anyway this is off topic now but hopefully this dissuades people from giving those scalpers any money. It wasn't always like this but as of present that company is doing much more damage to the community than adding anything of value. @Kniben I hope it's just your thermal pad placement that's bad so you don't have to buy a new motherboard, especially from them. I've attached images I found in some threads that I used as references to check thermal pad placement, hopefully these help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kniben Posted 20 hours ago Share Posted 20 hours ago Here are some photos of my model. The first photo is the bottom of the heatsink, so if you imagine flipping it horizontally, that's how they would cover the components on the GPU. The second photo is the GPU and you can see the pads covering all the VRAMs, except for well... that little square chip on the right and also the bottom most inductor (marked by red boxes), so I did my best to re-arrange the heat pads to cover them as well. If I compare it to the schematics, then yes, there is definitely room for improvement as all the heat pads seem to be 1 mm thick, and no, the GPU still crashes under standard clock settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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