IamTechknow Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Hey everyone, I been lurking here for a while but now found myself needing help. I decided to remove all the ribbon cables on the keyboard of my Clevo P960ED to I can shake it and blow compressed air to clean it. Well I turns out I literally can't put back the big ribbon cable! There are two smaller cables and I found for both I can put it inside a slot of space between the tab and port so that it goes in a little and then push down the tab to secure it. I can't seem to do that all for the big cable though, see attached picture. No matter what I seem to do I can't put it inside a slot or push the tab down, the cable always end up loose when I release my finger. I ended up breaking off a tiny bit of plastic from the tab but I don't think that made any difference yet. Any advice to put back the ribbon cable to the slot? And yeah I'll be sure to never take it out again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razor0601 Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 When you lock the clip it doesn’t stays in this position? Schenker DTR 15(P751TM1) @Dsanke Bios, I7-8700, 32GB 2666MHz RAM, GTX 1060, 15,6“ 4K B156ZAN02.2 Display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamTechknow Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 When I try to lock the tab after lining up the ribbon cable, the tab won't go down enough to lock AFAICT. Forcing it down can cause the ribbon cable to move away from the electrical contacts so it's not connected, or in my case resulted in a small bit of plastic breaking off (I couldn't lock the tab before that) Anyway I did some research and I think this is a salvageable situation. The tab, which is still largely intact, in my photo above is a 24 pin Molex FFC Easy-On front connector, so there's cheap to find replacements in digikey or eBay. I also found YouTube videos about a hack to secure it with tape and paper and another one to solder on a replacement part. I think the first video is enough for me to secure it, at least long enough until I buy a new gaming laptop (this one is 3.5 years old) or build a desktop. I haven't soldered in a long time let alone on a laptop so the 2nd video is a last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razor0601 Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Maybe something in the corners is blocking the clip because of Broken plastic parts? Schenker DTR 15(P751TM1) @Dsanke Bios, I7-8700, 32GB 2666MHz RAM, GTX 1060, 15,6“ 4K B156ZAN02.2 Display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamTechknow Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 21 hours ago, razor0601 said: Maybe something in the corners is blocking the clip because of Broken plastic parts? No that is definitely not the case, I can put the tab in the "down" position, just not with the cable inserted. There's no other broken plastic other than the bit that broke off. Even though I was asking for help I'll keep posting about my efforts to repair my laptop! Anyway I found that my computer will boot fine without the keyboard connected, and I can even enter the BIOS with a USB keyboard! I tried to clamp down the ribbon cable with tesa 61395 tape and while I was able to get the cable in place, the laptop keyboard still wasn't connected. Furthermore it seems I can pull the tab partially out (most likely due to the broken plastic bit) which reveals there's a gap between the pins the cable can go through. So my best guess is even when I can get the cable in contact with the metal pins on the connector, it's won't work until I can put it all the way in. I havethe iFixit tesa pre-cut card so I'm going to get a roll of the tape before I try again. If I can't get it to work, I'll try to remove or even break off the tab from the connector and then follow the youtube video ( ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 check that the clip is fully opened and in perfect place. take the ribbon cable and try to insert in getting it into the space between the metal pins on top. make it a bit facing the bottom side and then try to slide it in. if u still cant , take the ribbon cable from that blue plastic end and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aldarxt Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 Y On 8/15/2022 at 11:37 PM, IamTechknow said: Hey everyone, I been lurking here for a while but now found myself needing help. I decided to remove all the ribbon cables on the keyboard of my Clevo P960ED to I can shake it and blow compressed air to clean it. Well I turns out I literally can't put back the big ribbon cable! There are two smaller cables and I found for both I can put it inside a slot of space between the tab and port so that it goes in a little and then push down the tab to secure it. I can't seem to do that all for the big cable though, see attached picture. No matter what I seem to do I can't put it inside a slot or push the tab down, the cable always end up loose when I release my finger. I ended up breaking off a tiny bit of plastic from the tab but I don't think that made any difference yet. Any advice to put back the ribbon cable to the slot? And yeah I'll be sure to never take it out again! Yeah! I did the same thing when I got my goboxx, nothing was wrong with it, but like a bull in a china shop, I stuck my hoofs in there and broke the retaining clip for the keyboard trying to put it back in. so I used an external keyboard till my brain lights went on and cut up a plastic bottle with scissors to fit exactly on top of the ribbon and a slightly snug fit and it worked. I've also done this on m18xr2 interposer, that clip broke too and its much easier to connect and disconnect. You may have to sand paper the plastic bottle piece till it fits in 2 2 Clevo P870DM3-G i9-9900k-32.0GB 2667mhz-RTX3080+GTX1080 Alienware M18x R2 i7-3920xm-32GB DDR3-RTX 3000 Alienware M17x R4 i7-3940XM-16GB DDR3-RTX 3000 Alienware M17x R4 i7-3940XM 20GB DDR3-P4000 120hz 3D Precision m6700 i7-3840QM-16GB DDR3-GTX 970M Precision m4700 i7-3840QM-16GB DDR3-T2000M HP ZBook 17 G6 i7 9850H-32GB DDR4-RTX4000maxQ GOBOXX SLM G2721-i7-10875H RTX 3000-32GB ddr4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eban Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 2 hours ago, aldarxt said: Y Yeah! I did the same thing when I got my goboxx, nothing was wrong with it, but like a bull in a china shop, I stuck my hoofs in there and broke the retaining clip for the keyboard trying to put it back in. so I used an external keyboard till my brain lights went on and cut up a plastic bottle with scissors to fit exactly on top of the ribbon and a slightly snug fit and it worked. I've also done this on m18xr2 interposer, that clip broke too and its much easier to connect and disconnect. You may have to sand paper the plastic bottle piece till it fits in Nice improvisation! I broke the screen digitizer connector on my 7202 rugged tablet...similar connector just smaller. Its just held in with tape now and has been working ok for months. But I will keep this idea in mind 1 Thunderchild // Lenovo Legion Y740 17" i7-9750H rtx2080maxQ win10 RainBird // Alienware 17 (Ranger) i7-4910mq gtx860m win8.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamTechknow Posted August 18, 2022 Author Share Posted August 18, 2022 Thanks for chiming in, didn't realize someone else would have gone thru this problem, I guess notebooktalk attracts us kind of people 🙂 I'm using an external keyboard to type on the laptop but yeah I'm starting to look into clamping the ribbon cable down somehow. The problem I see with my laptop is there's not much space between the keyboard and the cable so I'm trying to use tesa tape which is super sticky, double sided and is only 2mm high. Also now I have removed the tab without breaking it any further, see photos below. I can actually put the cable all the way in in the gap between the two sets of pins. I cut up part of an old insurance card, align tape on it and then press it on the ribbon cable, but the keyboard still didn't quite work (first and 3rd photos). However at one point the keyboard light up blue so the LED portion works but not the keys... So yeah I'm going to try to wedge/clamp the cable with something. Waiting for the roll of tesa tape to come in! (don't worry about the cracked black plastic sheet in the 3rd photo, those were created by using a screwdriver to push up the keyboard when taking the back panel 2 weeks after I bought the laptop before I realized I can use a iFixit opener to get the keyboard out safely) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy Posted August 18, 2022 Share Posted August 18, 2022 those are called fpc connector. u can check pin number and pin pitch.then u can ask someone to solder a new one for u. probably u have a 24 pin ffc fpc 24 pin 1mm pitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybee83 Posted August 18, 2022 Share Posted August 18, 2022 6 hours ago, IamTechknow said: Thanks for chiming in, didn't realize someone else would have gone thru this problem, I guess notebooktalk attracts us kind of people 🙂 I'm using an external keyboard to type on the laptop but yeah I'm starting to look into clamping the ribbon cable down somehow. The problem I see with my laptop is there's not much space between the keyboard and the cable so I'm trying to use tesa tape which is super sticky, double sided and is only 2mm high. Also now I have removed the tab without breaking it any further, see photos below. I can actually put the cable all the way in in the gap between the two sets of pins. I cut up part of an old insurance card, align tape on it and then press it on the ribbon cable, but the keyboard still didn't quite work (first and 3rd photos). However at one point the keyboard light up blue so the LED portion works but not the keys... So yeah I'm going to try to wedge/clamp the cable with something. Waiting for the roll of tesa tape to come in! (don't worry about the cracked black plastic sheet in the 3rd photo, those were created by using a screwdriver to push up the keyboard when taking the back panel 2 weeks after I bought the laptop before I realized I can use a iFixit opener to get the keyboard out safely) oh ure definitely not alone with this issue, i ran into the same and used a piece of precisely cut and folded paper / thin cardboard to wedge the cable into place. its not the most elegant solution and it usually takes several tries until all keyboard buttons work properly, but in the end it does work haha Mine: Hyperion "Titan God of Heat, Heavenly Light, Power" (2022-24) AMD Ryzen 9 7950X (TG High Perf. IHS) / Asus ROG Crosshair X670E Extreme / MSI Geforce RTX 4090 Suprim X / Teamgroup T-Force Delta RGB DDR5-8200 2x24 GB / Seagate Firecuda 530 4 TB / 5x Samsung 860 Evo 4 TB / Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 (Push/Pull 6x Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-3000 intake) / Seasonic TX-1600 W Titanium / Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 TG (3x Arctic P12 A-RGB intake / 4x Arctic P14 A-RGB exhaust / 1x Arctic P14 A-RGB RAM cooling) / Samsung Odyssey Neo G8 32" 4K 240 Hz / Ducky One 3 Daybreak Fullsize Cherry MX Brown / Corsair M65 Ultra RGB / PDP Afterglow Wave Black / Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro X Limited Edition My Lady's: Clevo NH55JNNQ "Alfred" (2022-24) Sharp LQ156M1JW03 FHD matte 15.6" IGZO 8 bit @248 Hz / Intel Core i5 12600 / Nvidia Geforce RTX 3070 Ti / Mushkin Redline DDR4-3200 2x32 GB / Samsung 970 Pro 1 TB / Samsung 870 QVO 8 TB / Intel AX201 WIFI 6+BT 5.2 / Win 11 Pro Phoenix Lite OS / 230 W PSU powered by Prema Mod! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamTechknow Posted September 4, 2022 Author Share Posted September 4, 2022 On 8/18/2022 at 3:53 AM, jaybee83 said: oh ure definitely not alone with this issue, i ran into the same and used a piece of precisely cut and folded paper / thin cardboard to wedge the cable into place. Yeah this is difficult for me to do. With the ribbon cable in, I haven't been able to put anything bigger than a sticky note pad on top of it, and folding it in half will cause it to no longer fit. Assuming it's as thick as a piece of paper I only got 0.004 inch/0.1mm to work with. I bent a few of the top pins slightly trying to jam a plastic card piece and the folded note pad in but it only fits in a few pins. I didn't want to risk bending them with tweezers b/c they would most likely break. Breaking the top pins likely wouldn't affect the laptop but... I'm not even sure if wedging the ribbon cable down successfully would work for my case b/c even though the LED lighting still works I haven't been able to get the keyboard to work even for a few seconds. Here's what I mean: I tried to press down the plastic card piece with 2mm tesa tape while it was right next to the top pins but not squeezed between them and the ribbon cable. That didn't work, the LEDs did its thing but the keys were non-responsive. I then tried to press down the ribbon cable end with a tweezer (the non-sharp end) while the laptop was on and the keyboard was held up (I didn't try pressing down on the entire cable with my finger as to not short anything). The keys still didn't work. The ribbon cable plastic has been damaged a little bit on two of the pins already so it's possible that part doesn't work anymore. So after cleaning up and typing this up on this very laptop, I feel I haven't ruled out anything but the things I can try are more risky so I'm likely not going to try to fix the keyboard when a USB keyboard (and everything else with the laptop) still works. This laptop is 3.5 years old, so I'll probably upgrade within a year! (either a laptop or desktop, haven't thought about it yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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