All Activity

I've just disabled Dynamic Boost. No change, it just throttles to a dreadful 0.8ghz. HWinfo shows no thermal throttling on all cores, but Package/Ring Power Limit Exceeded is Yes on all cores. I've tried using Throttlestop, but it hasn't worked. I've tried using lower PL1 and PL2 figures, I've tried using higher PL1 and PL2 figures (as in the screenshot.) The weird thing is, when the game's running in the background (not active window) the power throttling doesn't occur. After the frequency stabilises with the game just in the background, going back into the game puts the frequency back to around 2.5ghz then 1.5ghz for a few moments, and then it goes to 0.8ghz. These are the limit reasons.

This is probably dynamic boost as your GPU and CPU share some headroom, try turning off dynamic boost (fairly sure it's in NVIDIA settings) and observing your CPU clocks under load. failing that, check hwinfo and see what limits are being triggered for the CPU

Nice work

Nice to see you, brother. Hope all is well with the family. With mVolt+ there is no longer any need to cross-flash BIOS, shunt-mod or use EVC2 for voltage control. You can change all of those things with software now... just a portable exe file does it all. And, now you can also run the latest DLSS and frame gen on GPUs NVIDIA said "do not support" DLSS and MFG. Yup, on something like a 3060 that would barely manage 30 FPS at 4K now you can do 100+ FPS, thanks to talented modders finding ways to beat and defeat the Green Goblin's lies and shenanigans. DLSS Enabler or DLSS5 Manager even let's you run DLSS on some AMD and Intel GPUs now.

Hey everyone! It’s been a while. Still rocking the same rig. One useful thing about the test bench is, we can move it to the living room! Ryzen 9950X3D2 (2200fclk) (2x16GB) Gskill DDR5 6000c26 kit @6400c26 with 1.500v VDD. X870 Strix motherboard 5090 astral. I run a Curve Optimizer per core on my 9950X3D2 which is tuned perfectly on each core. Some cores handle a -18 undervolt, and others can do a -33 undervolt. I found this worked best rather than setting a per CCD. I have considered water cooling my 5090 for the long haul since GPU’s have changed so much, but with the way they seem to be very limited inside the USA and even RMA issues being reported, I figured I probably won’t mess with any modifications at all. I’m not going to shunt mod it or even run the higher TGP bios. Probably not worth the risk with prices being what they are and at all. If it were a 5090FE that would be hard personally because they really need more power to compensate for the much softer “FE” bios. Anyways, 5090 Astral gets it done very well. I’m pretty sure it’s about 7 to 9% faster than a FE stock VS. stock.

A little update to my upgrade on the Dell Precision 7560. I finally installed the RTX A4000 on it. Gaming feels like a dream now... except now the CPU power throttles a lot. I took a look at the CPU on HWinfo, and it's really just power throttling. It's not reaching 100c at all. I am using a 240w charger, so what could the problem be?

Probably did one of the most idiotic things I've done in a long time lol. I went to Microcenter the other day and took the last 5090 Astral 20th Edition they had on hand. The catch was you had to buy the entire ridiculous bundle. I'm not even kidding when I say I was shocked at the size of the boxes and it looked ridiculous packing it into my SUV. The price was just stupid. But I figured I could sell of the extra parts. I also sold my 5090 D HOF XOC locally for $6500 and it took a lot of the sting out of it. I sold off the motherboard and PSU and am likely going to keep the case because you can use it as a open air test bench which I've always wanted. This thing looks quality and I can use it as a vertical open air case too. So while I have no use yet, I plan to eventually build a nice test bench setup and this case will fit the bill. My biggest concern was I wanted a warranty on my 5090, and given the "D" model, I thought it might be hard to sell in the future locally. The reason I wanted this card was the dual power input. I bought the adapter and the adapter cable from China, so I can use the card with dual 12v2x6 inputs and no need to use a stupid BTF board. It also locked in my warranty for another 3 years and at the crazy price Asus charged. I passed on the Microcenter warranty, but I'm now wondering if I shouldn't go back and add it. I might even take the 3 year warranty, especially since things like mvolt exist now. Downside, the card is kinda meh. Like it's barely better than my 5090 D HOF which was already a terrible bin. Still need to really test it once I get dual power input on it and can push the amps. Upside is that it seems to undervolt like fairly well. I am able to run +350 at .9v for around 2850mhz. It shaved off around 100w for almost identical perf. Microcenter did have an already built unit, so there is a card in there technically I could swap for. But honestly, I don't just benchmark all day long, my time that I have I mostly hit up the games so I'm not upset the silicon is mid at best. The card is just ridiculous sized too. The cooler is insane. It has the 800w vBIOS by default, but of course you can't use that until you use the adapter/cable or BTF connector. Of course mvolt takes care of that too.

So I was right and you made some kind of mule 😅 horse ( core from P5200 ) and donkey ( P4000 card )🙃 😎 You made new card , lets call this mule P4600? 😅

@Eban thank you for pointing that out. I have checked and is not bloated, it is fine. There is a shadow of the white wire that it is covering it, makes it look oddly. Almost 2 weeks and the AC ADAPTER is still working well after the repair.

It will be interesting to play with. It was $650, which was more than offset by what I sold the last 270K and 8400 Kit for with money left over. Now I am considering whether to keep or sell my spare G.SKILL 8400 kit. It's collecting dust, but there is an element of apprehension about selling my only emergency backup DDR5 kit. I may never use it, but if I needed it replacing it would be difficult. Hard to source and super stupid expensive. I agree. I love doing that as well. It brings them a lot of joy and what I can give them is always a lot more special than whatever cheap crap box they would buy off the shelf. It was the below combo. Certainly not going to do anything remarkable, but for her low-cost gaming rig it is more than adequate. It was a stubstantial upgrade in CPU and memory performance and plays nice with her 1080 Strix GPU. The kind of games she plays there is no reason for anything more powerful. She is mostly into indie titles and stuff like Fortnite and PUBG. Windoze 11 just wasn't playing nice with the old X79 setup. But, it still works flawlessly on Linux. The 5500F Cinebench score is several thousand points higher than what the E5-1680 V2 (2013) and DDR3-2400 was capable of with its max functional overclock. Just using the included Wraith Stealth cooler on the 5500F, Cinebench temps were only about 79-80°C. I've overclocked it a bit for her (4.6GHz all core) to keep things running crisper. SKU Description QTY Price Per Total Price 348201 G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Dual Channel Desk... 1 $96.78 $96.78 900308 Gigabyte B550M DS3H AC R2 AMD AM4 microATX Motherboard 1 $73.23 $73.23 098681 AMD Ryzen 5 5500F Vermeer AM4 3.0GHz 6-Core Boxed Processor - Wraith Stealt... 1 $59.98 $59.98 Subtotal: $229.99 Tax: $20.93 Total: $250.92 I am glad I didn't throw away the cheap old test bench. I almost did because I did not have any use for it anymore, or so I thought.

Nvidia Driver overhead issues continue to persist even when tested down to the 5060/5070/9060xt level.... If I am putting together a budget system with a lower tier CPU or especially shooting for DDR4, I would probably go Radeon anyhow..... ------------------------------------------------ Which combo and final boss form did you set up for your grand daughter? One of my great joys is building rigs for loved family members. I saw you picked up that SP99 over on the forums, congrats! @Mr. Fox! Really looking forward to seeing a nice comparison across your collection (some now departed) of 270k chips you've acquired and tested. How much did it set ya back? ---------------------------------------------------------------- On FB "WoW Forever basically uses a modified version of the old engine, so it will run on a tincan" Also WoW Forever pushing my 5090 to 99% utilization questing in my Druid at 4k ultra details frame locked to 175fps..... (Pure stock on GPU) I have to run the newest Nvidia drivers as they address quite a few issues / optimizations with WoW Forever...

The old X79 Gene Rampage IV setup was not working great for the grand daughter that was using it as a gaming rig, so I bought a cheap AM4 CPU/mobo/RAM combo from Micro Center to upgrade her tired system. Knowing I would essentially get nothing selling the old parts I decided to build something useful that I have absolutely I no use for. The old Xeon octacore, 32GB of HyperX Beast DDR3-2400 and Titan Black still has plenty of mojo for a home server. FygoOS (Linux server OS) works really great. Just using spare parts that also have almost no value. Tired old 2TB HDDs in RAID1 with a 128GB SSD used as a cache to speed things up.

Other than the Gsync resistor strap, Nvidia hasn't used the pcb to set device ID since Kepler. My P5200 is an 8GB P4000 card with a P5200 core on it. This is one of my earlier screenshots of when I first got it working where I screen grabbed GPU-Z and 8GB:

I did some testing, and I can confirm that the USB lanes of the unpopulated LTE port (J_3G1, the B-key M.2 footprint labeled "3G/LTE" on the mainboard) are active and can be used for pretty much anything USB-related. I hooked up the ARGB controller to the USB lanes, and it worked right away with no issues. The pins you need are: Pin 7: USB D+ Pin 9: USB D− Pins 3, 5 and 11: GND(dont use them for power GND, just for reference) The pins are located in the short section of the footprint (pins 1–11), on the odd-numbered row. To reach them, you have to remove the palm rest. Heads-up: there are two small screws hidden under the heatsink, so the heatsink has to come off first. I left those two screws out, as they don't add much to the stability, and it makes removing the palm rest much easier for future mods. I used twisted cable pairs from an LVDS/eDP cable, as they're super small and high quality. I took the 5V from the SATA daughterboard. There's an unpopulated pad for a capacitor that is directly connected to 5V, which can be used easily for 5V and GND. For me the next step is to install a small USB hub PCB inside that will be connected to those USB lanes, as I want to add another controller for more lighting zones (underglow). I also experimented with M.2 USB controllers, but I couldn't get them to work. And now let's get to the keyboard mod, as this might be the most useful part of this thread. It's a well-known problem that the keyboard backlight burns out over time. I don't know why, but I think either the LEDs are driven too hard or they're low-quality parts. Mine died too, and green was the only color that still kinda worked. Blue was completely burned out, and red wasn't that bright anymore either. I thought about buying a replacement keyboard, but that would have been just a temporary fix for this problem. So I took the keyboard out and disassembled the backlight. I had some super small ARGB strips lying around, which came from those car LED strips you can press into the gaps of doors and dashboards. The strip has 34 individual LEDs, which translates to roughly that many zones, a big improvement compared to the original 4 zones. Like most LEDs, these fire straight up and not at an angle, but it turns out that's not a big deal here. I installed the strip with the LEDs facing up toward the keyboard, right at the diffuser. They don't fire into the diffuser at an angle like the original LEDs did. You can see it, as the lower part of the keyboard is slightly brighter, but it's barely noticeable. It's a PITA to put the keyboard backlight back together with these LEDs, as the lower part is slightly thicker than before, but once it's installed, you can call it a day. As mentioned above, the controller is connected to SATA power and USB internally, which makes the mod super clean from the outside. The controller currently sits next to the internal M.2 port under the audio board, but it will be moved to a different part of the chassis, as there's plenty of room. I'm not done yet, and there's room for optimization, but for now I think this is a good and lasting solution to this annoying problem. A huge benefit is that you can now control the keyboard via SignalRGB or OpenRGB. This gives you much more flexibility and much better effects (I'm mostly using screen ambience). I also want to go further and install the same LEDs facing down toward the desk and shining out of the exhausts. My main laptop used to be an Alienware M18x, and I miss its lighting, which is why I want to take this further lol (Forgot to make pics of 5V supply pins and the controller position. will add them when i have the laptop apart again)

It's not rare because I sell it. When it'll be bought, it'll become rarer haha. The 4070 MXM is the best MXM-A card ever, needs backlight mod like the HP Mini Z2 cards.

Wow that is a high price! Best price to performance MXM-A in my mind that is the quadro T1000 (GTX1650), they come from HP mini z2 G5. They are in the 75 euro to 125 range (if you can find it). T2000 variant of the card also exists, close to GTX1650 ti. They have a different dimension to MXM-A but they usually slot in just fine. If you want great performance you should get the RTX4070m, it is rare but worth it. 4 times the price, 4 times the performance more or less according to 3D mark.

The picture might be the only problem...but. This cap looks like its bloaty headed...is it?

It's time to let go of NBR and NBT. There is almost nothing of interest left for me in here and i rarely post something. I don't tinker around with my laptops anymore, because it's just not needed anymore for my daily use. Wishing you all the best. (the account will be deleted soon, i am very thoroughly with these topics)

[PLEASE WORK WITH CAUTION] ⚠️ HIGH CURRENT IS STORAGE ON CAPACITORS Hello everyone (Sorry for my poor English) This is just a small walkthrough of how I fixed an issue with the EUROCOM 780W AC ADAPTER when it was not supplying power to the laptop and showed only 0.0V on the display. It was really frustrating and confusing why it didn’t have any power. This problem it didn’t appear right away, it did start happening slowly, some days it was just fine supplying 20v and some days I had to turn it off for few minutes and then turn it on back and it was fine until the problem became so persistent that it was not supplying power at all, just showed 0.0V. At first I thought it was a ground issue, I used to have a Clevo P775TM where the Ac Adapter wouldn’t work if wasn't grounded. Next I thought it was an ID pin issue, but on these laptops or on my case (CLEVO X170KM) they don’t seem to have an ID pin, I had measured every pin on the connector and there isn’t any ID pin, just + and - as far as I know. So next was to open the AC ADAPTER itself. first I headed for the MOSFETS, I thought something was not switching there or some IC chip was not sending the signal. Checked every single mosfet that I saw was hotter than usual thinking could have gotten shorted. None of them was faulty, next I checked all the coils and they were fine, not blow up or with lower capacitance. So last it lead me to the resistors, as I know for some experience the resistors helps to measure if voltage is passing (Sensor Resistors) or also to regulate voltage, pull down. I headed to the resistors that is connected directly to the output. On my view these resistors were the one doing part of the heavy lifting so I went ahead and measured them out of the board, (while soldered into the board there was not proper reading). For my surprise there were more than 4 resistors with low ohms, not too big of a difference but it already crossed the ratio limit. -5k is a lot and some around -10k, I believe the IC power controller it was stopping the AC ADAPTER to output that low voltage. (You can see 6x 1206 resistors on the upper part of the picture - those were fine - and 6x 1206 more at the middle, 4 having low resistance.) After replacing one resistor the “9103” =910K ohms (dimension= 1206 for reference) with 1M ohms resistor (the closest I had at hand) the AC ADAPTER supplied 20.1v and it was working normally, not problem whatsoever. If you have this issue please replace the resistors with the same capacity, don’t do like I did, is a bit higher but I intend to replace it with right resistance when I get them. [PLEASE WORK WITH CAUTION ⚠️ HIGH CURRENT IS STORAGE ON CAPACITORS.] All the best.

Yes exactly, you can purchase my 4070 8gb for 470€.

Pls help. I put back the Xeon 1680 v2. Multiplier overclocking works, I can set to 40x and 41x. All cores boost to 41x but TSBench sometimes it's stable, no error and sometimes 2728822829292 errors then BSOD. I managed to run Heaven benchmark 4.0 1080p Ultra and I got 299FPS average with 4090 130W and CPU at 41x. I'm stuck at max 1.276V for the CPU. Why can't I go further? At 4GHz = 1.266V max in TS At 4.1GHz = 1.271V max in TS At 4.3GHz = 1.281V max in TS No thermal throttles! This CPU ran at 1.38V fixed voltage at 4.5GHz all cores in the Asus X79 Rampage IV. All throwing 2738338 errors... And BSOD. Everytime I get a new BSOD error, it's not always the same... I don't think the extra voltage option works. At 0 or at 30 or at 80, same max voltage in CPU-z and Throttlestop Pls someone? You have same laptop and unlocked CPU? Post your BIOS screenshots please and CPU-z too

Stick with 150W. If you go higher then you will burn this card after short time. If you want full potential then focus on using MSI Afterburner and editing voltage/clock curve. You want to make flat line with lowest stable voltage for highest core clock. For examle you set core clock 1800mhz at 1v and everything "on right side" you set the same. Making flat line. This will force your laptop to use 1v for highest clock. You can set different clock value for different voltage but dont go higher than 2000mhz to extend your gpus life. This way you will reach its max performance. When testing you will get plenty freezes so be carefull and then lower clocks or rise slightly voltage and test again 😎 you have to find sweet spot for your gpu. Maximizing performance and keeping your card under 85-90 degrees.

Prices are pretty high, starting at 1700$ for A2000 8GB and going up. Not for average enthusiast 😞

Yo ,The problem is that my GTX 1080 never exceeds approximately 150W, even under heavy gaming loads. I believe this GPU may support a 200W power limit, as used in some MSI GT75 configurations. I'm looking for an original or compatible MSI GTX 1080 MXM 200W VBIOS that could allow my GPU to reach its intended power limit. If anyone owns an MSI GT75 8RG with a 200W GTX 1080 MXM, or has the correct VBIOS file, I would really appreciate your help. Thank you in advance!

I already sold the laptop. It requires soldering which isn't interesting. Could break the laptop + MXM card. By the way 10/20 series cards from Clevo don't work in the X170KM-G in PEG. It was already tested. I already made an adapter to bring back backlight to the embedded RTX cards. Soldered less of course.