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Tried with RTX 3080 and K3000M. I use windows 11

You'll be happy to know I just released a BIOS mod for this that allows up to 980M/M5000M to work in LVDS PEG mode or P5000 in eDP 120hz PEG mode. (up to RTX 5000 is working on the next version I will release). In SG mode you are limited to DX11 so most GPUs will work but be stuck in DX11. Also my BIOS let's you OC 2920XM/2960XM to your hearts content straight in the BIOS.

Agreed, I can't see the upside for the price for a 9950X3D2. Find one priced the same as a 9950X3D? Sure, why not, let's have some fun but current status? It just doesn't make sense at least for my use case. I know you would have fun with an Arrow Lake setup @Mr. Fox. Even better DDR5 OC'ing than Raptor and then some and a much more nuanced approach to overclocking. It will truly leave your memory sticks gasping for air potentially even in G2 let along G4.....

Have you tried a different GPU? What GPU are you trying it with?

Hi all, snagged a pretty clean M17X R3 for £66 after maxing out my M15X, this will be my new project. im looking for insight regarding the best hardware which can be installed on this machine. apparently some of these were optioned with a 120hz display? If so does anyone know the part numbers so I could try and source a close replacement even if it isn’t the 3D one, 120hz would be sweet. thank you.

I tried with 3 different ones. Maybe it's my GPU? But that shouldn't be the problem?

It is 3200mhz ram. SO right now it's running 2933mhz which is downclock. I want to try 3200mhz.

HDMI IN works for me on my eDP 120hz panel. Last GPU i tested was WX7100. Haven't tried 980M/P5000/RTX 4000 yet, but if the AW OSD drivers are installed it should work. try a different hdmi cable. Some cables, the head is too thick and the plug doesn't go in deep enough to the hdmi in port.

A 9950X3D2 will likely degrade your gaming and overclocking experience. It is generally not good at either task. It is interesting to see people buying them anyway, despite the reality of the situation. It is the Ryzen equivalent of a Quadro GPU. Not the right tool for the job.

Hey sorry I havent been posting, busy season in my line of work its been madness. Still keeping tabs when I have a moment, 60 hour weeks and probably filling in for the overnight shift for a stint. Might be making a move into Engineer role if things line up. @Papusan Sorry to hear about your recent troubles but really stoked you are on the mend. @Mr. Fox is going to need a tag partner to keep these manufacturers honest. I have been thinking about trying to sell my 10850K system again as I would like to get something that is x16/x16 for GPU benching, just been too busy. Now that I have a sizeable slush fund it seems my guilty pleasure is trying to find a 1991 Honda CRX. I have certain designs for my RSX but would "need" something else to use while its being worked on.

That's a sound approach. I've done that before using 0% financing in the moment for 12-18 months to snag some deals and know I could just pay it off selling off excess hardware and never touch my main funds in any way, shape or form. As @Mr. Fox is alluding to, it comes down to what you expect and how far do you want to push the platform? A lot of variables need to come into play as you well know between CPU, Memory and motherboard binning and on AM5 what gear you're looking to run. I have three sets of memory Team Group 8200, KingBank 8400 and Vengeance 9200. On my AM5 platform, the 9200 can do CL26 while the other two can not.They both top out at CL30. Coincidentally, those 9200 sticks also are the only ones that can do 9066 G2 with zero extra voltage on my 270k. The 9200 are late production 2025 sticks. I wish I had two pairs of them but they are never in stock and sell for $900+ on eBay and get snapped up every time. I paid $370 for them. I would never pay the outlandish prices now but if I only had my first two sets, I would be hitting a wall on my modest set up. I DO think you will have much better success if you rip the heatsinks off your sticks and add them into your loop than my setup and I guess since this is BB, you could try binning some sets and see where it takes you. I can vouch for Arrow Lake being fun too. Either platform will give you plenty of new things to learn and tweak and it is much cheaper than a 9950X3D2 and even a 9950X3D. If you stick with 4k gaming, it really neuters a lot of the X3D pizazz on most case by case games. Either way, you're gonna have fun. 🙂

Same results but the software on the 4h54n is different though. Maybe I need the xwh200 HDMI receiver to really test but it's expensive. For the HDMI in, it doesn't work for 120Hz eDP systems? I need iGPU? I get HDMI IN ON OSD but it doesn't display a video out.

Tony is fixing borked DDR5 modules now. I need to get myself one of those programmers. I do not use RGB software anymore for changing RAM LEDs to white because it destroys the SPD. I've had several DDR5 kits corrupted by it.

Excellent! And I'm glad your computer didn't turn into a newt.

My laptop is going soon to reach the end of the warranty. That sounds stupid, but I am hesitant to get it fixed since the tech could break something else accidentally. Here are the three issues I have: When the sound is at the maximum level, there is a cracking noise from the left speaker. Is that something others experienced? I frequently get windows notifications "need help with your camera?". In fact, the camera has some trouble to start in Zoom or in Teams the laptop chassis has some chips on the front Would you get the laptop fixed if you were me? I am afraid they will propose an upgrade instead but I installed myself 64GB of ram and the cost is tremendous those days...

And there was much rejoicing.... 😉 Thank you giltheone, the info was just what I needed.

By default the frequency is 2400. My RAM is 2666 MHz and it is stable up to 2933, which is why I didn’t push it higher. Send me a screenshot from the Memory tab in CPU-Z so I can check your RAM situation and guide you.

What exactly is your issue with the 5080? Maybe we can make some changes using RU.

Yes modified drivers is required for any laptop not using stock configuration. You can use nvcleaninstall to help with that

@Scruffy, It has already been replaced in a repair shop. Fortunately, the nightmare is over. But for how long - remains the question. I don't want a repetition of this shit. And this is why the above challenge is now a matter of a very high priority for me.

You really need to get the memory kit that I recommended if you want to have great results on AM5. Anything else is going to be a crap shoot. All of the AM5 memory overclocking record holders are using what I recommended and ASUS has built their firmware around it for unrivaled results. If you get something else YMMV and may not be as good as you might want. I don't know of anyone getting good results on a Ryzen build using Corsair memory kits. You're going down a totally different rabbit hole with AMD and I'd hate to see you make it more frustrating than it will be otherwise by making a wrong choice on the RAM. AM5 also copes much better with 2x16GB than it does with 2x24 or 2x32 kits. Overall the platform is finicky and requires more effort while yielding smaller rewards. It's not horrible by any means, but it is not on the level you are used to in terms of ownership experience. The pricing of memory and SSDs right now it off the rails and beyond stupid. I paid about $300 for this G.SKILL 6000 CL26 kit and now even the trashiest crap DDR5 memory kits with Micron and Samsung ICs are selling for 2-3 times what they should be. I have a V-Color Hynix 6000 CL26 kit and it performs like garbage and sucks at overclocking. It's back in the box and will only be used if necessary due to a hardware failure. Pay the extra $50-$100 for the recommended G.SKILL kit and avoid regrets. No. I would not purchase a 9950X3D2 CPU. There would be zero benefit for me. Total waste of money from what I can tell so far. They do not play games better (maybe actually a little worse honestly) and unless you get super lucky with a god bin sample they are worse at overclocking. The CPUs with 3D cache also have a small memory and L3 cache latency penalty. X3D2 is very niche with no practical application for gaming. My favorite Ryzen CPU is 9950X (non 3D). All Ryzen CPUs are literally designed to boost as far as they can with 95°C as a threshold. One or two CCDs and regardless of core count they hit 95°C under max load and only delidding can tame them. They are power, current and multiplier limited processors. The CCDs (cores dies) and IHS are small and have minimal surface available for good heat dissipation. The only meaningful benefit to going AMD is socket longevity and a longer CPU upgrade path that does not require replacing the motherboard. Otherwise, I would say go with Z890 and 270K Plus. If I could do a straight across trade for that without spending any money I would. Rumors are that Zen 6 is going to be awesome though. It might be but nobody knows for sure yet. I know that this commentary probably all comes across as negative. Let me balance that by confirming that I do not hate my AM5 systems at all. They are decent and I have learned how to like them, but my expectations going into it were higher than they should have been and I am just being very frank with you about what to expect. All of the former Intel enthusiasts on overclock.net that made the switch to X870 from Z790 that I have communicated with echo the same. By no means bad, but rather mediocre overall. If you go into it with low expectations it will be easier than if you go in expecting it to be everything you loved about rocking an Intel system. If you go into it listening to AMD fanboy fables you're going to quickly get pissed off and frustrated while you learn how to make it work to the best of its ability. The performance tuning gains are smaller and require more effort. The X570/AM4 experience was an utter dumpster fire for me. That has not been the case with AM5/X870E/Zen 5. If you decide to go with a Ryzen build, I highly recommend watching both of these videos. The first is for CPU tuning. Very useful. The second is some memory tuning and other myth-busting that goes against what many of the fanboy gamers will tell you. This guy knows what he is talking about.

Im struggling settling on a platform. My goodness. Now I’m looking at 270K Plus! 😂 I could order like (3) of them, and keep the best. And Z890 motherboards are cheaper as well.

I haven't found any reliable information on this, despite multiple attempts. My PC is Clevo P751TM1-G with 9900K and RTX-2080. What is its 15.6"-size successor? The (hypothetical?) Clevo model I'm hunting has: - either 10-11th-gen Intel CPU (10900K, 11900K), or basically any 10+ gen with its iGPU completely disabled and out of the pipeline - RTX 3070 or 3080 (no 40-series or newer, the 30-series has to be my toppest top because Windows 7 drivers are up to 30-series and are unavailable for 40+, correct me if I'm wrong) - The Clevo spirit: the more components are replaceable / not soldered - the better - at least 2 M.2 disk slots (P751TM1-G has 2x M.2 and 2x SATA, but I'm not using the SATA ports and could sacrifice them) This ideally matches X170KM-G, but it's a 17.3" giant, not a 15.6"-size successor of P751TM1-G

Yeah, after the 5090 Astral I’m tapped, and all the other small losses here and there messing around with 5080’s. So I’m putting these up coming parts on the BB 0% for 12 months, then I can slowly sell off my current stuff to help recoup. 😁 Spending $699.99 plus tax on ram is not smart. I know they are amazing sticks. And the “Want” is STRONG. lol I feel like if I go with those rams, I need the Apex. I may go with these! Also, what do you think about the new Strix Neo board? Is the Hero maybe worth the step up? I’m going to skip the Apex. Cutting cost on ram, and motherboard, allows me to go with a 9950X3D2 over a 9850X3D. I think that’s probably a smarter move. I want to stay at like $2,000 for CPU/RAM/Motherboard.

Welp guys, I found out today why my AIO coldplate fused to the pure copper IHS on my 10900K. It wasn't purely because of liquid metal between copper to copper contact plates, it was that in addition to me running sub zero temperatures on the AIO (Masterliquid ML 360 Sub Zero). The cold served as a catalyst for the liquid metal to weld the 2 surfaces together. Don't use liquid metal for sub zero overclocking guys. The liquid metal leeches into the copper faster this way and then welds the 2 surfaces together. I didn't know this at the time and stupid me thought liquid metal would be the GOAT for sub zero overclocking. Nope, normal pastes are better for that.