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@Reciever and @tps3443 if you don't already have it, download this modded version of ZenTimings. It was previously shared by @safedisk on HWBOT and OC.net and it has a few features the normal releases do not have, including memory temperature and power, WHEA error counter and CPU die temperature. The sensors for VDDIO typically do not work unless the BIOS is set to Auto for VDDIO, but this modded version may fix that as well. (It fixes it on my B850MPOWER.) This app functions portably. No installation nececessary other than the prompt to install PawnIO on first launch. (PawnIO must be installed or ZenTimings will not work. PawnIO is a replacement for WinRing0.) @tps3443 also check your Ntro settings to confirm the BIOS is automatically assigning them as 1/3/1 and manually correct if not (shown in ZenTimings). Make sure your Bank Refresh Mode is "Normal" (not "Mixed") and manually set it if not. This will make it so only tRFC is used. tRFC2 and tRFCsb/pb are not used in Normal mode. You can set them to "1" in Normal Bank Refresh mode, or not set them at all, and it doesn't matter since their values are ignored. In Mixed mode latency is higher and those values do matter. ZenTimings-v1.42.6.zip

I hope that I can visit some day.

Trondheim (From 8:12) is my birthplace and I lived there until I moved 30 years old outside the city. @Mr. Fox A beautiful place. Around 218.000 citizens now but a smaller place with under 137.000 when I lived in the city early 1990's.

Sounds like your CPU is being voltage-starved based on the behavior you described. If you are running CCD0 55.50 and CCD1 55.25 you're going to need to manually set Actual VRM Core Voltage (set Core VID the same of 10mV higher) for somewhere between 1.375V and 1.425V (depending on your CPU) or drop them down to 54x or 53x depending on what voltage those core ratios need. If you are running PBO with DOS (Dynamic Overclock Switcher) enabled your Curve Optimizer negative offset might be too deep and that can make the transition from low-load PBO to high-load manual overclock is too dramatic. If the CPU has not been delidded it is going to be very difficult to run 54x or higher than 1.275V-1.300V due to overheating. Each CCD is very small and temperature sensitive due to the lack of thermal dissipation surface area. Much more so than Intel. My Ryzen CPUs tend to freeze the OS when overheated rather than thermal shutdown. I don't know why. It's scary that we can't fix stupid. Scary that some people don't even know how stupid they are. The sad part is that stupid people and their bad choices affect everything, including having an effect those of us that are not stupid. We have to deal with the fallout of their stupidity and its contribution to asinine pricing. The options available to the not-stupid people are (a) become stupid like the others, or (b) do without and settle for less. There is no value in the current pricing of GPUs, storage and memory.

Namaskar I am curious if anyone here has sucessfully went from Win 10 Pro to Windows 11 IOT LTSC with their setup. I am not sure what is new with W11 LTSC, but I feel like at least giving it a try, and keys for it are only some 7 USD, and I can just get a ISO image off archive now. I use Win 10 IOT LTSC 2021 with one operating system, however given a few odd quirks with windows 10 happening now such as the file search feature being almost totally useless now, I am considering just going to LTSC Win 11, at least with another hard drive. I also get one can make custom versions of this, so I would be interested if maybe there is some real debloated version around?

Asus is holding back the 5090 for now. So same sky high prices. But 5080 Astral come in more like $2100 MSRP now. The much cheaper 5080 TUF at $1900. Nvidia offer still the old MSRP. How can people in their right mind pay over $2000 for a 5080? The scary thing is that they do😐 ASUS and Galax Raise GeForce RTX 50-Series Prices by Up to $74

if it was a question for me, i would say that the fan is always at max i think, and not depending on the the CPU temp.

Its an honor general 🫡! appreciate the feedback!

I cannot run 1.480v VDD, but thats alright. When I run R23 it hangs the whole system. I’m not really sure where to start.

Awesome. Nice bump in bandwidth and drop in latency.

Thanks! It works! I copied all of your settings. Only thing I changed was, I flipped the CCD0 55.50 and CCD1 55.25 etc, and I ran 1.500v VDD mainly because I am not sure how good my ram is, I think you had the 6000c26 sticks. But I may try 1.480v now. Very proud of this Intel GSKILL 6800c34 ram kit right now. It has impressed me so much!! I’m absolutely thrilled. Its not a Expo kit, so it runs DCPO, but they seem like an amazing bin.

You can't cross-flash a Quadro vBIOS on a GeForce GPU. AFAIK, there is no ES VBIOS for the GeForce cards. @jeamn once had some success getting a GeForce 1070 to work, but it's a bit more involved. https://www.nbrchive.net/forum.notebookreview.com/threads/trials-and-tribulations-installing-a-1070-in-a-m6800.828000/index.html

@Aaron44126 I give up on it, until I noticed the GPU is n17e-G1-a1 which is the GeForce GTX 1060 not the n17e-Q1-A1 which the P3000 😅😅😅😅 So a fast recap: - I got the GPU, black screen ACPI boot loop. - Flashed the ES vbios of P3000 as provided above using programmer, it displays now and boot to windows but can't install drivers. I hope this finding will help us reach a solution Master🙏

Temps are even better by 3c lower after a few adjustments down to ~71c vs 9800X3D sitting at ~80c. Not apples to apples though. #1. I didn't follow my own classic LM rule and actually apply a little extra on first application versus subsequent touch ups which I use less. I saw a few flat/dull spots and just added a touch more and reflowed the surface amount and redistributed on the heat spreader. #2. I added nylon flexible washers to the bottom plate. Something I've done on the regular in the past to not only compensate for any potential Z-height height issues (if any) but more importantly give a little flexibility to tamping down screws to auto compensate for any thermal expansion if I'm not using the ILM which I have sometimes removed for better/direct pairing and relied on hand cranked mounting pressure with a torque adjustable driver. I had initially opted to bypass this step but added it back in this time around. It provides more value on laptops that support desktop CPUs overall with all the various pairing issues and such. I ordered a few custom cut shims ~2mm that will arrive next week for some comparison data vs no washers vs several AIOs especially the ID Cooling Frost Flow x 280 which has zero compensation/extended range when tamping down the CPU block vs my EK CR240 or Lian Li II Performance Lite 360 which both give extra headroom for pairing and can somewhat compensate for the loss of the 2mm z-height with the TG Heatspreader. I do think TG should have offered a normal height heatspreader or at least present their data showing core temp differentials between both versions tested in house. Maybe it is floating around out there on the Internetz somewhere. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- What a great advertisement for the TG WV II Pro....... seriously, Roman sits around and thinks of the stuff HE would want as an enthusiast, former high level OCer and just lover of tech. Not sure why he doesn't have or used GPU Tweak III to see how it responded.... Watching it immediately pick up that load imbalance and spit out a warning was nice to see. Hook in the auto off wire function and it would even immediately shut down your system for you too. That's two be quiet! PSUs involved in meltdowns in the matter of a few days. One using the 12vhpwr and the other using 4x PCIe 8 pin. I don't think it is be quiet's fault at all. Just an odd coincidence but more importantly burns and failures completely away from the 12vhpwr connector on the GPU itself but instead the PSU and/or PSU cabling. I'm sure they're going into damage control mode though as a precaution. be quiet Dark Power 13 (This is HUB, I'll assume the 1600w model) be quiet! Dark Power 13 (Club386 burned at both ends) be quiet Straight Power 11 Platinum 1200w (Tech Notice) (time stamped at PSU ID) Just a trash connector....it really is......

Nice work! Let me say my 2 cents, if CPU gets hot, GPU fan kicks higher gear too ? I see dents on heatpipe, it may be too damaged to work properly now. Try using "sandwich" technique to solder metals - distribute clamp force evenly using thin metal from up and down of heatpipe. Also if using premade heatpipes, check which side is cold side, because this is important. Heatpipes have hot side, CPU/GPU side simply saying and cold side, where fins are located. Most efficient are those with less bends and smaller angle. If fins are located in middle, it may also perform worse compared to fins welded on "end". Hotplate connection to gpu die is also big one, as level as possible and smooth surface helps. Lastly, always use up to date soldering paste (I made this mistake myself, I used one time paste that was past usefulness date - it connected metal but no trasfer of heat at all..) and connect metals solidly (I don't know how to describe but think of wood glueing - there is saying the less glue you use then better it holds) - good and big contact surfaces are MVP here. So anyway, nice job ! Good luck!

BeQuiet PSU is a better thing to fail than an Astral 5090. The petite arson feces connector doesn't care what it ruins.

Thanks a lot for the knowledge sharing! A pipe bender would allow me to be more precise in fact Thanks mate! It's encouraging for me that the base is good and it can only get better. What i will try know is to align the fins and the fan near perfection, it will definitly help pushing the heat better.

The X170SM/KM are dead platforms like the X7200. You can't upgrade the MXM nor downgrade it! You're stuck with RTX 20XX to 30XX Clevo format for the SM and stuck with only RTX 30XX Clevo format for the KM! For me the 4090 is better than the 5080. 5080 doesn't have a 150W VBIOS. It's a 135W. No need to upgrade from that.

If the RTX 5080 works with the Backlight Mod v2, I would like to purchase it. If the RTX 5080 works, the lifespan of older laptops could be extended even further. I want to use it in a P570WM, though there are issues regarding the X-bracket and heatsink... Also, unfortunately, I do not have the schematic for the X170KM.

The 16GB G.SKILL modules are definitely better for Ryzen than 24GB sticks, especially on ASUS. Try the Strix X870E-E memory settings I used in this video. Bear in mind that X3D CPUs are always going to have a memory latency penalty, usually 1 to 3 ns. Set the "Core tunings Configuration for gaming" to Legacy and that should bring it down a bit. If the 8000 C34 settings are too tight, try the 8000 C36 settings that I use on the B850MPOWER. There is almost no difference in memory benchmarks between the two. Too small to matter.

Yes, years ago I built a similar model with a loop and it worked well, but in the end I decided to go a different way because of easier installation and removal needed. Your idea is also possible of course. There are several options available. No, this is the original fan that was damaged it was missing a few blades it was basically a scrap. Here you have the option to remove the all original blades keep the fan core and attach a newly designed ring with blades shaped as needed. I also had a problem controlling the fans, but I eventually solved it by using my own small control electronics.

if memory recalls i dont think linking the pipes back to GPU copper plate would be efficient, i get the logic of hot running to cold point (fan) though. I always understood heatpipes work best with a temp gradient from one end to other. looping would increase copper mass, you might benefit from two pipes ending up at exhaust grille. just my 2c. Is that a 3d printed fan? i ask as i had sooooo many Ali fans working out which would fit in DVD bay then the headache of supplying different brand fans with HP happy power.

Sorry, only saw this now. When I pulled up the wattage of the Alienware I did not have to do any shunt modding and I found the performance increase going from 180W to 200W quite negligible and not worth the added heat so I did not continue to use it. With the 2070 I would expect a pretty much linear increase in performance up to about 150W so you probably hit a sweet spot there. What was your previous power uptake?

great work, but low data - needs benchmarks and compare results with stock oem.

i think the only unusual thing here is the 30cd/m minimum brightness that LG sets without any apparent reason. or can you tell me why? over the years i have never encountered a single manufacturer with this curiosity. these are useless in a dark room.