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There is certainly some truth in that and we are all guilty of wanting the best. I'm guilty as charged. Passion often overshadows prudence. In the moments I set that aside and think rationally about the cost to benefit I realize that if I do not have an overlay telling me what my FPS are in the fleeting moments I find time for gaming I do not enjoy playing less on the 5080 vs 5090 and the same was true of the Arc GPU, 9070 XT and 4090, 3090, 3090 Ti and other video cards I have spent absurd amount of money on. I can tell the difference if I am focusing on max performance, but if the game runs smoothly and I am enjoying the game, the GPU it is running on isn't something I think about. It only actually matters when the experience is adversely impacted. Most of the time it is not. If I spent a lot of time running something like Micro$lop Flight Simulator, a 5090 would be the only fantastic option because the experience is impaired in a very noticeable way. (Thankfully, I have no interest in that title whatsoever, or I would likely have wasted money on two 5090s for the sake of playing.)

That's a good call. If the price was close enough (~300-400), I would have kept the Astral most likely too. I still love the way it looks and that cooler is lights out especially on a 5080. If I ever contemplated stepping down to a 5080 to pocket $$$, Astral would be high on the list along with Gigabyte SFF and the new PNY 5080 SLIM for obvious reasons among all of them. Gigabyte SFF 5080 is on sale at Microcenter for $1199.99 But yeah, logic can go right out the window because on one hand, it is only money while time is meant to be enjoyed in the now and you'll never get back the next year+ with a potential 5090 vs a 5080. On the other hand, it IS money and cost counts so I get it. Or....OR....... (Devil's Advocate LOADING) You're going to continue to go, "What If?" Never settle down and constantly be on the lookout for deals to try and nab a 5090 while convincing yourself the 5080 is "good enough." 😁 @tps3443 I've lost count how many times I've done the "it isn't worth it," cha cha slide only to end up somehow getting the very product I know isn't worth it simply because I wanted it. Remember this, with a 5090 you WILL be able to sell after ~18months of use for what you paid or close to it and depending on market conditions maybe even more. Also Super cards here on the list again.... ------------------------------------------------ Super variants are back in play with the 5080 (16->24), 5070ti (16->24) and 5070 (12->18) early next year. If this happens as rumored for early 2027, this really is the nail in the coffin for anything being released in the 6000 series in 2027 and makes 2028 the year of Rubin.

Yeah I’m actually pretty content with the 5080 Astral. It looks physically the same as a 5090 Astral, just slower and cheaper 😂

Regularly still using the old Dell e7440 (refuses to die) more or less as tablet for simple browsing, impressive that MS continues providing daily Defender updates + a monthly Malicious thing.

Go into XTU and set the Core Voltage Offset to -0.130V, then set the CPU multiplier to all-core 47x and run Time Spy again. Your CPU score should increase from around 7000 to over 10000, and the overall Time Spy score should reach around 22,000 to 23,000.

You made a decision based on logic rather than passion. That's the best decision, even though it doesn't include the "best product" and once you get over not having a 5090 you won't care any more and you'll know you did what was most intelligent.

Yep! I sold the Zotac 5080 last night. I had a buyer for the 5080 Astral too, and I was going to buy GTZ’s 5090 Gaming OC for $3,000. But I decided, what the heck am I doing with my life right now lol… Let me just keep the 5080 Astral and be happy with it. It’s so tempting to jump on that 5090 though. But, I just don’t really need it. This hobby can be so unhealthy at times. All for the love of PC hardware. 😀 The 5080 Astral OC is awesome. So, it really started to grow on me. And trying to be responsible has taken over. Im over here twitching man, wanting that 5090 like a crack pipe. 😂 But I know after I get it, I’ll probably feel guilty and irresponsible.

If it wasn't too much more than the Zotac, I'd keep the Astral unless you find a buyer for $1500. Hmmmm...... I'll have to give it a whirl on the 270k and see what it spits back first as I've just started testing and retuning around the 270k... JensenMagic casting "Bendoverus DropPantimus!" Since the 3000 series, each generation has contracted performance uplift wise except for the halo product. AMD needs to bring the pain and AI needs to die to get Nvidia back on track. --------------------------------------------------------------- Welp, Samsung picked the wrong person to try to get out of a 4TB 990 Pro warranty replacement due to market conditions......

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R3nI6MCZWSWPsn-z6ZA1wsgKKMFry6e2/view?usp=drivesdk here's a reupload

So theoretically I can remove my 1080p 144hz whole display assembly. Install this one and the eDP connector should reach/fit my RTX 2080? Will Tobii still work too? I am debating on ordering it. Always wanted 4K panel on my Area-51m. Seller hasn't replied yet

This 4K, 60Hz panel has a connector similar to your panel — 40-pin, 25 mm. Ask the seller to send a photo of the eDP connector

@amirhesamsadeghpour so if I buy this, will it be plug n play? I have rtx 2080 & 1080p 144hz panel now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326926666398?_skw=alienware+area-51m+uhd+display+assembly&itmmeta=01KTPPGA2RV1JASF7A8ERH5K4T&hash=item4c1e590a9e:g:Y5AAAeSwG0VpTBVG&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBX%2FnTDjq89xY7NlsI8xxPkohENCfoiysCIV3ctwYjoGlqEhdxrEQP%2BUB2FqkgWhH5j4ktV5ypn53ROzXl4wpuNp8xS19UHrqeUU39UyWge2rKe0MmDq4PsIwWYE0CEmI4fxfNOoMtdT6cQpmoxHXhs0ot5HBxSScBA9%2BxBw2xyD6KCK7z%2BDirnCkK%2BA0qKw2qVPZcDw26DpSxe2P3OEFzfDAl1W4QySPpsAx6UcIMagvS0Koc78JFY2ALBBYm6cI4Jbx25e7Bh6g4ANAxYftOw|tkp%3ABk9SR-qhwdbVZw

Using liquid metal does not help much in reducing temperatures. The main cause of high temperatures is the heatsink itself. No matter what you do, the i9-9900K will still reach 100°C. The best thing you can do is undervolt the CPU. Just go into Intel XTU and set the core voltage offset to around -0.120 to -0.130, then set the all-core multiplier to 47x or 48x. After that, run a benchmark and check the results. You should see lower temperatures and noticeably different CPU performance. If the system is stable, you can also try going up to -0.140 offset. My previous 9900K, using the same settings, achieved a score of 10,466 in the Time Spy benchmark.

laptop 3740qm+16g ram+256ssd+m4000m 4gb single or can insert factory 1 *gtx675m + secondary heatsink from gtx675m + sli bridge, 240w ac, + battery =400$ nebula red.

Using liquid metal does not help much in reducing temperatures. The main cause of high temperatures is the heatsink itself. No matter what you do, the i9-9900K will still reach 100°C. The best thing you can do is undervolt the CPU. Just go into Intel XTU and set the core voltage offset to around -0.120 to -0.130, then set the all-core multiplier to 47x or 48x. After that, run a benchmark and check the results. You should see lower temperatures and noticeably different CPU performance.

By sharing your system specifications, we can work together to find the best possible configuration. I can also suggest stable tuning settings so you can get the maximum performance out of your system.

I’m waiting for you to improve your CPU score in Time Spy and send me a really good record so I can enjoy seeing the result. If I had an RTX 5080 right now, I would definitely set an incredible benchmark record with this laptop. Unfortunately, my card is only a 3080 Ti. Come on, let’s make an impressive record with the 5080.

Send me a screenshot of your current RAM frequency and timings so I can check them. I’ll help you tune the best possible settings for maximum performance and stability.

The BIOS versions that allow you to set memory frequencies higher than 2666 MHz are as follows: BIOS 1.1, 1.3.2, 1.5, and 1.7.3. Newer BIOS versions have more restrictions and allow fewer modifications through RU. If you want, I can also send you the best settings for 2933 MHz, with the lowest timings that are both fully stable and deliver excellent performance. In fact, 2933 MHz with CL17 timings performs better than 3200 MHz with CL20 or CL22 timings.

Uhm, I am terribly sorry for committing the dreadful crime of spreading misinformation😅 I WAS INITIALLY running 82.07.8D.00.15 with non a non-DC screen, but at some point (maybe a year ago) I flashed a different vbios with an applied overclock (1071 to 1306 ) onto my M1000M - version 82.07.97.00.04, since I was too lazy as to mod my own bios... Then two months ago, I got hold of a DC screen, installed that and it worked right of the bat with 82.07.97.00.04 - I hadn't even thought about the different vbios versions... In device manager, screen identifies as PnP-Monitor (Standard) Hardware ID MONITOR\LGD0220 No specific mobile registry overrides active as far as I can see. The 460.89 driver was installed by using NVcleanstall, which eliminates the need for manual inf modding: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-nvcleanstall/ GM107_82.07.97.00.04.rom

A video on how the PWM module controls the brightness (video quality is low and the flicker at the end wasn't visible in real life): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pc26yv-KfplCYKkyqWoC8NvCF2inLdIQ/view I also have another video (low quality...) without flickering but it's so blurry thanks to the autofocus that I can't disable...

All parts working! The trackpad on the new palmrest assembly is miles better in responsiveness too which is ace. going to get drivers working, do some testing and install windows 10 LTSC.

Got all the parts today, the 970M worked a treat. Just installing the 940XM and 16gb ram now 👍🏼

HaKu - Mono No Aware Because.....its a Japanese tongue twister

Very nice work.