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Update: RTX 3000 repaired! Good news! I got my M17x R4 back from the repair shop, and the Quadro RTX 3000 is working again. If I remember correctly, the fault was caused by a bad capacitor on the GPU. The charging issue is still present, though. The charger works normally if I connect it before turning on the laptop, but if I plug it in while the laptop is already running on battery, the charger LED fades out and the adapter shuts off. I tested another known good 240W adapter before, and it behaved the same way. The repair guy believes the battery may be responsible and says the motherboard is fine. My battery health is only around 13% and it’s the original battery 14 years old, so I’m not sure whether that is related or whether there’s another issue with the charging circuit. For now, I’m happy that the RTX 3000 is back to life! I’ll test it further to see whether it remains stable under load. Thanks to everyone who helped me troubleshoot this and offered suggestions!

F***ing ay, been playing electric guitar for xx years, parts of this is (again scaringly) from another dimension or planet. Maybe it is, planet AI :O) & no doubt, they are feeding LSD to the AI.

I installed the i5-4210m. When I boot the laptop it beeps 4 times. 4 beeps usually means RAM, so I removed the two easily accessible sticks, while still keeping the two other sticks on the other side of mobo. But it still beeped 4 times, so not sure what's wrong. I can't be stuffed disassembly right now but I probably have to take the CMOS battery out for the bios to reset and recognise the i5-4210m. I will continue tomorrow by putting the AMD gpu back in and seeing what happens. Should bring me one step closer to determining why the laptop won't detect the NVIDIA gpu.

Hi Eban, Thanks for replying so quickly. I really appreciate that. My BIOS is in EUFI mode. I ran msinfo32 and it's definitely UEFI. How do I check if it's peg or sg? I have the 60hz LVDS display, so I guess it's forced to sg mode? I didn't get beeps at any stage. I do have another CPU the shitty i5-4210m hahaha. So if I put that in, will it reset the CMOS? I will try that. By the way I had the AMD 8970m/m290x, not the GTX 880m.

It’s a bilibili world brooo 😆

It’s FURY IMPACT 3200mhz ddr4 1.2v he OC’d to 3600mhz CL18 without increasing the RAM voltage How ????????????????

What type of RAM can reach a frequency of 3600 MHz 1.2v CL18 on a DDR4 laptop motherboard?

My first idea would be check your BIOS setting. Full EUFI and PEG/SG mode? Did you get any error beeps? What happens if you install the old 880m? My next idea would be to clear the cmos....got a different cpu you can install? you can clear cmos with the dimm remove/replace method but that will take even more tear down to reach the underside SODIMM modules https://notebooktalk.net/topic/2153-geforce-gtx-980m-repair/

Ah, my bad I confused DP redriver/retimer with DP demuxer 😅 Nice example with that (zbook 17 g5 ?) schematic, what I mean't to say previously is that I have never seen a demuxer output fed into the eDP connector on the motherboard. So you are saying that the redriver might be interfering with the EDID i2c communication ? It seems that the one you found is listening to the GPU communication and then adapting it's signal filtering & gain based on the DP signal speed, the rest is probably passthrough between the LCD EDID and the GPU aux wires. EDIT : here is the awesome post that has useful links for EDID hacking that I used on my DC m6700 to get 10bit color depth to work :

I am having some issues. Firstly the GPU didn't come with an X-bracket. Yay. So I removed the X-Bracket from my old 8970M/M290X GPU using a heat gun and put it on the 980m. Then I put the 980m in the laptop. Turned it on. BIOS detected nvidia gfx in dedicated gpu 1. Great. Went into Windows and saw microsoft basic display adapter. Great as well. Then I opened nvcleaninstall. Got to the tweak settings section and it was giving me an error for typing in 13D7.05AD.1028 in the ID field. So I decided to restart the laptop. BUT then all of a sudden my laptop stopped detecting the GPU entirely...wtf. Not detected in BIOS or Windows...so now I am stuck. I have unplugged the battery and held the power button for over 30 seconds. Didn't work 😞 Any suggestions? usually it means the GPU is cooked when BIOS and Windows don't even know it exists. But it did detect it initially...My best guess is that the AMD X-Clamp on the 980m was too loose, got hot and fried the GPU or it warped/bent the GPU from overtightening.

Microcenter officially no longer carries the 5090 as every card with no remaining stock still lingering is now marked as, "No Longer carried." Only card left in stock anywhere for 5090 in Microcenters is the Asus $11k+ after tax bundle and only two of my five localish (~45-100mi away) have 1 in stock each. Why are they still there? Most likely because third party sellers have other models for sale for $4k cheaper.....I'm sure they will eventually move..... Just about every model of 5080 in stock but cheapest price is the $1699 (on sale for $1669) GB WF SFF 5080. Same for the 5070ti but the cheapest model is the Ventus for $1199 on sale for $1149... Newegg is completely wiped out of 5090s as is Amazon and Best Buy. All we have are third party sellers with the lowest price being ~$7k for a Windforce 5090. Only 7 models of 5080s in stock on Newegg with the cheapest being the PNY for $1699.99. Cheapest 5070ti is the $1179 Eagle.... Ugh -------------- I received an email from BHPhoto today informing me the Gigabyte 9070xt Gaming is discontinued. I forgot I had it on my "inform me when in stock," from eons ago. We'll see where that goes.... Cheapest 9070xt is the $800 Reaper and prices are rumored to be going up again.... Certain cards can't be found stateside (GB Aorus Elite and PowerColor 9070xt Red Devil are two examples) as most likely AIBs are going to start consolidating which cards to carry based on profitability. Smart move is to offer lower tier cards at inflated prices to weather the price storm rather than have more expensive models get too close to 5070ti pricing and potentially rot in this PC gaming market downturn, but again, we will see.... --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I said it before and I'll say it again... 270k is an absolute banger and price:performance it is a monster. Toss in Microcenter bundle deals and it gets crazy.... ----------------------------------------------------------- No thanks. Picked up my on hold at Best Buy H9 Flow 2025 Edition yesterday for $109.99 that checks all my boxes especially with my army of P14 Arctic 140mm fans. I think I have at least 12 of them strewn about for my build out..... I had $90 in rewards sitting in my account from when our TV decided to fail earlier this year and we needed a new one so final price was $21.38 He was mostly disappointed in the assembly frustration and MSI trying to be "fancy" and causing access issues and usability. Beautiful to look at but pricey, frustrating to build in and hard to access features once built. I can't imagine dropping $800 on a case. Then again I never imagined dropping $2k on a GPU so who knows in the future?! 🤑

A severely overpriced turdbook turdboard without a screen. Rubbish. The only question I would have for the buyer of one of those would be...

Better with a keyboard PC? Only $3000-$4000 USD. A complete PC inside a keyboard. Prices reach $4,191 in the US🥴 HP launches keyboard PC with Ryzen AI 400 inside, price nearly doubles over 300 series model to $3,000-$4,000

Not just an ugly case, but a piece of garbage. Very expensive piece of crap that is an extremely poor value.

Please check the video I sent. The VRAM has been upgraded from 8 GB to 16 GB.

I’m really happy that your system is stable now and you’re able to use it without any issues.

【外星人51M性能天花板再突破！显存扩容到16G，AI运行起飞-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/VPoCtI2

【外星人51M性能天花板再突破！显存扩容到16G，AI运行起飞-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/VPoCtI2

【外星人51M性能天花板再突破！显存扩容到16G，AI运行起飞-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/VPoCtI2

【外星人51M性能天花板再突破！显存扩容到16G，AI运行起飞-哔哩哔哩】 https://b23.tv/VPoCtI2 see link

Here's the review of MSI's flagship chassis. Only $700 USD. Quality equal a $35 cheapo box from China. Expect the same for your Gigabyte 5090. They really like to use their famous red arrow stickers everywhere.

Good point. Yes, that’s correct, but there are many different types of redrivers on the market including versions without the MUX function. Perhaps to simplify the explanation, it’s more practical to use a MUX switch and redriver in a single IC for several reasons, such as cost, simpler design, etc... For example:

This is very interesting. I had never thought of modifying the EDID of the panel to ensure compatibility but this is a good idea. Aren't these used to split a DP+/DP++ signal into DP and HDMi or DP and DP ? On all schematics I have seen, DP redrivers are never used for eDP connections, only mux switches between CPU eDP and GPU eDP. A good test would be to flash the EDID of the internal LCD with a standard DP display instead of eDP. I had done such a modification to the EDID of my Dream Color display inside my M6700 to enable 10 bit color depth, without this mod, the display couldn't be set to 10 bit color depth.

Yes, that's right. DisplayPort + pins for controlling the LCD display = eDP (Embedded DisplayPort) The problem is that most older eDP LCD displays (with internal EDID EEPROM memory inside the LCD) only work with (standard or normal) DP. But newer GPU cards, which of course no longer have the settings for connecting to the primary internal display LCD (eDP settings) configured in the VBIOS automatically support newer generations of DP (usually DP++). So due to communication via AUX lines (similar to I2C serial communication) between the LCD and the graphics card, which is part of every DP connection a “black screen” issue occurs after installing the drivers. Newer-generation LCDs (with internal EDID EEPROM memory) (VESA v1.4a) should support DP++, however the laptop manufacturers usually prefer to play it safe and insert a so-called: DP-redriver between the LCD and eDP lines, which can usually be configured using resistors to ensure a wide range of compatibility. However, there is another option. Since LCD displays typically use standard i2c eeprom memory to store EDID data, which as I mentioned communicates via AUX (I²C) bus with the GPU this offers the possibility to experiment directly with the EDID itself (for example by changing its parameters). Various versions of EDID editors are available online some even include a function to generate a new EDID data (which generates new EEPROM content after entering the input parameters). For the purpose of determining these input parameters tools such as the DTD Calculator are useful it is also often included in some of the more sophisticated editors. or There is also the option to experiment using so-called “DisplayPort dongle emulators,” which contain nothing more than the previously mentioned standard 24CXX-type serial EEPROM with modified contents. I’m just trying to point out a possible way to try to rescue one of the disabled (unusable) DP_x GPU outputs. Yes, a long time ago I worked with electronics in cars for example: EDC and Me engine control units including even the very old (non-flashable) ones and many other components used in cars, so I have experience with SMD and even hybrid components sealed in gel that were used in VP fuel injection pumps. But that was really a long time ago. I gained a bit more experience with motherboards during the project to convert my AW M18x R2 from an LVDS to an eDP system. I’ve made a lot of mistakes during my experiments and damaged the motherboard many times and I’ve had to replace a lot of components. But every time I managed to bring it back to life even though it sometimes took a really long time. I agree, resistors, ceramic capacitors, CMOS logic, that’s true I know. Thank you for your support. Any advice is helpful.

The card has arrived. Photos attached. I am going to try installing it now. Hopefully these are the correct steps? - Set bios to UEFI - Run DDU with shut down option - Replace card in mxm slot - Boot into bios and check if detected - If detected, boot into Windows - Install modded driver (since my device is a 17 R1 Ranger) - Test, and benchmark for fun If I have any issues I will reply here. Thank you kind people who still use this forum :).