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Forgive me I typed it all out on my phone at break but this second GPU would strictly be just for Frame Gen mule under lossless scaling, my 7900 XTX would still be my raster, at 3Ghz its pretty good for me 24/7. I dont care about power savings, but I do concern myself with the 12VHPWR which is why Im dancing around upgrading to something "modern". This is all just so I have 4K120 comfortably in recent single player titles. I prefer the idea of offloading frame gen to a second GPU over having it done on the same one. Also looking at the IOCrest M.2 to 10Gbps adapter also and lastly the GC-Titanridge TB3 card for the last slot. I think this would make for the best "everything I can think of" daily driver for a while. Welp, scratch the ACE. Looks like Asus never fixed Curve Optimizer in the BIOS so it doesnt actually work lol, Back to the drawing board. The Crosshair VIII Dark Hero looks like a good replacement choice.

Sorry, I've had many R3/R4 laptops over the years and I've definitely swapped screens around but I've never once tested the 3D on any of them. I still have a few pairs of Nvidia 3D glasses but I've never tried a 3D game. I'm assuming you have the small emitter cable plugged in. Must be a compatibility issue but I never knew this to be a problem, maybe nobody tested it. Yes, Nebula Red was hard to beat in the looks department.

My vote would be for the 9070 XT. So far it is AMD's best GPU in terms of performance.

I think its supposed to be 30x NGU and D2D, 40x Ring. My 275HX in the Hydroc G2 can do that easily with Premamod, but the real advantage comes from memory tuning. I have seen a few post sub-80ns AIDA64 scores, but I find heat is a big limitation on combined load stability so realistically for me 85ns is the best it can do on air with reasonable ambient temperatures. I think the A51 18 could do better temperature wise with the memory as the modules sit on the side opposite of the vapor chamber. You would have to use Smokeless UMAF to modify timings and test. Sadly max MT would be somewhat limited compared to even a mediocre desktop board as you cannot adjust VDD2 up beyond 1.1v (except on the Hydroc G2 with Premamod).

I didn't think about it, but I guess it makes sense where the Alienware logo isn't lit up. If it's controlled by the AlienFX chip just like the emitter and all that, something just doesn't jive right with the R4 AlienFX chip. Maybe if I flashed it with the R3 chip info or something, but I'm not going through all that. Hopefully I have the fix, using the correct screen and everything will work shortly.

Interesting, I didn't pay attention to that but you are correct, "Alienware" below screen is not illuminated. I ordered the correct screen by part number off ebay. I'll install it once it gets here. Looks like I'll upgrade my son's R4 with this panel so he has 120hz and throw a newer card in it eventually. I never experienced 3D gaming(though I'mone of the few that really like active 3D tv's years ago and still have one), so I've been trying to get this up and running. I plan to do an older desktop build with a supported hardware if I enjoy it. Crazy the panel works great, 120hz works flawlessly yet no 3D. I've spent hours taking it apart, putting it back together, reseating everything and doing modded drivers and clean installs of Windows. Only to see the most logical thing was something isn't compatible haha. But that's the fun in working on these old rigs. Hard to beat the esthetics of these, especially in Nebula Red though, and the ability to tinker and upgrade everything.

Does anyone know if the display assembly and eDP cable from Alienware Area-51m R2 is a direct fit to the Area-51m R1?

So now I'm looking at one of the following 7800 xt, 7900 xt, gre, 9070, xt, possible 7900 xtx Also looking to pick up an x570-ace for dual GPU scenario in tandem with losses scaling. Only reason for entertaining a second 7900 xtx is in the faint hope I can get one with better memory overclocking. Seems to be where people are able to hit gold. At that point I'll pick up a waterblock for the 5800 X3D also, I'll make it easier on my fingers digging into the system time and again. Also tried booting some of the Gpu's I have but don't seem to be porting lol just my luck

yeah, but the 7720 heatsink has much more heatpipe surface area on the heatsink itself then the M6700 heatsink + has double radiators, so just this will give much better heat dissipation, n the temps i posted couple posts ago, was CPU + GPU at full load, when gaming never CPU and GPU will be at 100%, always one will be "bored" depend whats the bottle neck(think mostly will be the CPU bcs of high settings i use), in timespy loop i was at 60°c.: NVIDIA Quadro P5200 Grafikkarten Benchmark Resultat - Intel Core i7-7820HQ Processor,Dell Inc. 0F2JMF so i have a big fat headroom... 😎 so i only need a graphics card now, then will put in the new mainboard... im really excited to see how much the XEON with those fat 128MB L4 cache will speed up the CPU limit, every bench i found was around 10-15% in pure CPU limit n around 3-8% overall.

I know that MX-4 isn't the best but what I'm saying is that the stock heatsink handles a 115W 4070 with a regular paste. I could use PTM7950, it'll maybe save me 10C! Full copper doesn't mean everything too. The M6700 custom heatsink had same performance as the OEM heatsink with a M5000M! It usually depends on the heatpipes themselves and on the air conductivity. The custom one was using the same heatpipes as the OEM one.

think will be slightly better then the original heatsink bcs of full copper, so should be enough for a 140W card...n found 2 different RTX5000 cards, one is n19e-q5-a1 the other e19e-q5-a1, last one seems to have 150W while first one pinned to 110W... think will be easier to optimize cooling to fit those 150W then to get another bios for those cards 🤣 n u should try MX-7, u will be surprised how much it will drop the temps compared to MX-4... [edit] igor has a mx-4 vs. mx-7 test online: ARCTIC MX-4 vs ARCTIC MX-7 | igor´sLAB

It's all about greed and money.

I don't think this would handle the 150W VBIOSes. It can handle 125W GPUs for sure. For MXM-A RTX 4060, 4070 you need to cut the heatsink for it... Very nice designs from X-vsion... The stock modified one can handle 115W 4070 very easily and the temps are staying cool. I used MX-4 paste and not ptm7950. For example the custom RTX Heatsink I got for the M6700 throttles instantly in FurMark with a 150W Ada card. But this heatsink can handle 100W easily.

RTX heatsink is ready:

Tell me, is this fast. I was recording it with my phone but it blew the surge protector on my power strip at 68%. This was with a 330W Adapter. This was done on a AMD FirePro M6100, With a fork of the Mystery Magic V2 VBIOS (1188/1500), I then overclocked it more to 1306/1732 (Core/VRAM). Now I have not finished the fork of the VBIOS, I still need to give it more voltage and loosen the timings on the VRAM a bit, which i will then see if it can handle 1350/1800.I do also need to get new thermal pads and paste for it.I was running the benchmark on Fedora 43

I don't remember if 3d was an issue, maybe @Maxware79 remembers if R3 3d panel works for r4 with 3d. I know the AW logo doesn't work

Please, can you share more details about the display upgrade? I was planning on putting a 1440p display on my 7720 as well. Like, are you using the stock UHD display cable (06GXDN)? What is the 1440p 165hz IPS display model? Also, did you need to reroute the cable internally because of the display connector position?

I have 970M 6GB from Clevo and M5000M 8GB from Dell. M5000M: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/188273/188273 For Alienware... Why does the M15X work with Maxwell cards? In dGPU? I tried today with Maxwell VBIOSes (970M and M5000M) that have no UEFI/GOP: Boot with LVDS cable: nope Boot without LVDS cable: nope Boot without LVDS cable and DVI plugged in: nope Boot without LVDS cable and HDMI plugged in: nope Even tried to do the same with a Quadro P3000 UEFI, nope. The 485M works without LVDS and displays in DVI/HDMI... It's just a blackscreen, no backlight, no post, no OS. Nothing. Just fans stay on idle.

I don't really use it because it doesn't bring in what it should. I don't know why it does something different when I use it than what it should. Any ideas? 🙂

The Black Angels - Young Men Dead Because.....I too was once a soldier. Now I'd say I would fight for my country, but I will not die for it. Fuck politicians, let them fight!... .....and cause this reminds me of The Doors

I did just read in an old thread from Tech inferno that the R3 screen is not compatible with R4 for 3D. If that's true, that's unfortunate, but explains everything.

I have a R4 with the 120hz 3d screen, but the emitter isn't picking up or something. I'm sure I'm missing something, hopefully just software related but I've hit a wall and can't figure it out. I tested the screen on the R3 before moving it over to the R4, it worked fine. The screen itself is working fine, I have it set to PEG in the bios and it's running at 120hz currently. However, Stereoscopic settings are not showing up in the control panel and I even tried 3D Fix Manager but it shows emitter not detected and also says panel doesn't support 3D, when it just did fine prior to swapping it over. The R3 was on Windows 11 at the time, just like the R4 is. It shows up in device manager as Nvidia 3D Controller, I assume all is good there, and it shows working fine. I'm on the lastest driver that supported 3D vision, 425.31 or whatever it is. Still nothing. I don't have the integrated graphics driver installed so it only runs on the 680M. I've reseated everything multiple times, just to be sure but still... no 3D. I do have a 2nd 680m in another R4, I'll try swapping it in just to see what happens. I will say, for some reason I had to do modified drivers even on the 680m because the Nvidia installer said it couldn't find compatible hardware. Maybe something is wrong with this 680m, idk. Any thoughts or ideas are much appreciated.

These settings control memory bandwidth, and the other option enables custom settings and XMP profiles. If you configure both options, you will get a 2933 MHz memory frequency. Can’t you find these hex values in RU.efi? To be stable at 2933 MHz, your RAM may need timing adjustments. You can also try CL20 or CL22 timings. The hexadecimal equivalent becomes this, meaning: CL16 → 0x10 CL18 → 0x12 CL20 → 0x14 CL22 → 0x16 CL24 → 0x18 and so on… Where are the other timings? In RU, usually after address 0x940, the following addresses correspond to: Address | Timing | Description 0x940 | CL | CAS Latency 0x941 | tRCD | RAS to CAS Delay 0x942 | tRP | Row Precharge 0x943 | tRAS | Active to Precharge Delay For example, for timings 20-20-20-48 (CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS), you enter: Address | Hex Value 0x940 | 0x14 (CL20) 0x941 | 0x14 (tRCD 20) 0x942 | 0x14 (tRP 20) 0x943 | 0x28 (tRAS 48) Decimal value 48 in hexadecimal becomes 0x28 By the way, send me the link to your best Time Spy score so I can take a look. .

This "new meat" garbage should be outlawed in every state and every nation the world over. The company(s) producing this dung need to be put out of business forever. What in the hell are these idiots thinking? Oh wait, they're not, and neither are the morons that eat this filth.

I am missing these extra settings: ✅ Memory Profile: ‏ MEMORY PROFILE 0XA65 → 01 ‏✅ Additional Overclocking: ‏ 0X93F → 0B Would this help my Area51m RAM at 2667mhz?