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Even NWR was impressed with the level of dedication to pass off a clearly stripped 4090 as legit.....visually. You've got to test hardware, period. Unless you know the person, test test test and implement a few other safety measures too like location, access to power to test and securing the item once tested good to avoid a bait and switch. If you can meet at a public swap area at a police station, always use that location. Back during the Cryptodemic, buddy was all excited about a killer 3090 Asus deal on local FB. I told him to insist on meeting at his local police station swap area and he agreed. Seller tried everything possible to NOT meet at the police station even though he was local too so he smartly passed on that one. I've also used Starbucks before to meet up and test hardware because they have plenty of outlets inside. It helps if it is a local Starbucks and they already know you. I used Barnes and Nobles a few times too to quickly test hardware. Let the seller know you WILL be testing the hardware on premises in your own hardware and it will be staying in there after testing and payment (Zelle, PP or Venmo FF) is then tendered. Unless it is a safe area don't use cash or you end up like my college roommate's friend who lived on campus too who met off campus to buy a Macbook Duo and ended up getting robbed. I tried to warn him to do it on campus in the common areas but nope.....off he went and received a pistol whipping and $2k lighter pockets. I remember being in Hong Kong years ago and watching an American lady who was traveling in our group get baited and switched on a high end camera at a downtown store. Funniest thing was watching the sales person who was speaking very passable english suddenly couldn't speak english when she called the police. Police told her there wasn't much they could do as it was her word against his. Lucky for her she used an Amex and was a long standing member. I helped her call her credit card right then and there from a payphone, explain the situation and they immediately put a hold on the transaction. Found out later when she got home they sided with her and told her to mail back the camera with proof of delivery so she did. The store actually called her from Hong Kong and tried to curse her out and insist she had to repay the transaction.....lovely yelling at a 65yr old lady.....classy. Welp...... 🤣

i upload this sample made in my GT60 system, if anyone like to try. make use of this register with care because i dont know at 100% secondary effects, i make use of it in my GT60 2OC without problems but in my system conditions, effects may vary between MSI models and submodels of the GT60/GT70

Well if you get a chance, try testing the 4070 or 4090 in the m17xr4 so people will know if it works or not. Which heatsink are you using?

welp that was a quickie, the lightning Z vbioses only let me run one of the three fans 😄 wont bother testing the XOC versions, so Matrix it is for D2D now 🙂

“The 5070 Ti is an excellent choice. Definitely get it and enjoy it.”

Needs to add the "spiky" dissipation plate on top of the heatsink and it'll be perfect. I don't see any adjustments with the RTX inductors, maybe he didn't do that yet.

! YT. Oppo Find X9 Ultra ...and a few addons.

I mean this IS Asus...... did we expect any less? 🤣 I think users need to accept bending these cables just isn't a good call in any scenario..... Before the WVP2 and MSI sending me the MEG 1600T, I kept my tentacle as straight out as possible trying to bend only from the extensions themselves as far out as possible. But overall, it is just not a good design/cable.....

Now you need pay premium or even extra for good quality power cables from PSU manufacturers/ODM/OEM. And if you are happy with the cheaper OEM cables from said company you may be screwed. What next? Send the bill to Jensen because his love for cute small GPU PCB design hence the fragile GPU power connector? He won't pay. That's on you. Charging around $40 to $50 more for what is still a GPU power cable makes the safety angle harder to accept, even if the engineering does appear to reduce connector stress. ASUS puts a $50 tag on safer GPU power cables, ROG Equalizer now has a price

Looks like Alex finally got it fixed. Wow... scamming goes next level. The people worthless scum doing this kind of thing need to be exterminated.

I found the answer myself: you can just ask the guy to make you a 30 series one, and he will 🙂 Only vendor on TaoBao I could get to do it, somebody else complained about copper prices, others said they don't have heatsinks in stock anymore 🙂

I have no idea about the support on the P750... but I would expect it to work??

I stand corrected. This must be "new" for this generation, first I've heard of it. Typically, one of the drive slots has PCIe lanes attached directly to the CPU, and the others all go through the PCH, so this is not a surprise. Though I can't explain why Dell numbered them the way that they did (assuming that this is actually the reason behind what you are experiencing).

As expected, removing the lid switch magnet from the display bezel solved the issue of the Bios lock-up when the screen was closed.

Hi bro, do you still have the updated Origin stock BIOS? I have an Origin laptop as well. I'm done fiddling with the XMG BIOS and just want to see the Origin logo in the startup again. 😁

I have the Pro Max 16 Plus which came with a Gen5 drive. Something I discovered by moving the drive around is that one of the NVMe slots is faster than the other two. Physically it's numbered as the second slot although it's numbered as 1 in the UEFI since the UEFI numbering starts at 0. The included drive, which is a Samsung PM9E1, will reach 14500 MB/s in that slot but only around 12500-13000 in the other two.

No. I did bought an RTX 4070 but it's for the M4800. I didn't get the shipping number yet. Well I busted the myth of RTX cards in 120Hz in the Alienware. Works like on the M6700 120Hz. I'm trying to mod the heatsink because one of the inductors doesn't fit correctly yet... Some people said it won't work because the mux switch is too old for the RTX... I sold the 3080 (DP on DP_D) as I needed money for the 4090.

Brother, if i shunt mod too to 180w limit it will artifact too? I just want more performance on core not vram oc, your artifacting is vram related?

They're different but also similar. For example, 980M doesn't work in SG & PEG in M17xR3/M18xR1. Even Optimus has issues, when I saw RTX 5000 working on such a old platform I knew eDP would work too as long as the card vBIOS/Physical card itself supported eDP. Now I am curious of trying rtx 4000 or 5000 in M17xR3 eDP. If it works in M17xR4, it might work in R3 which would be the fastest card tested so far. So you don't have any eDP cables left for yourself to test 3080 or 4070 in M17xR4?

That's awesome. being able to change TDP on Turing Quadro should help lift performance quite a bit. I have a P4000 in my M6600 in Optimus mode so I can flash it in windows but I also have a spi programmer. Also have a tesla p6 but that card is special, changing anything in its vbios causes it to code 43

i discovered all because i like to make the jump to a RTX 4060 or 4070. but really i cant allow me to waste money since its difficult to make a few USD in my country so i need to be sure to have a stable working GPU. the GT60 its my main system today. i have boardviews and schematic for it to make any type of modification (taking care of no making wrong things). just the troubles you mention i cant allow them since i use external displays and its bad to get the cooler at 100%

if you like to just download RWEverything and with the RTX 4060 connected, check what value you have in the register 0x80 (gpu temp), if you get a value like FF in that register is that who is making the fan go to 100%.

and about the video output, probably exist a method to override the own hot plug detect coming from the EC and just making it go directly to the GPU (skiping any type of screen control of the touchbar)

Knowed GT60 EC registers : CPU Temp (0x68) - Variable Value (auto refresh) GPU Temp (0x80) - Variable Value (auto refresh) note : if you make use of register 0xC7, disabling temp sensors (02 Value) you can make static values from CPU TEMP and GPU TEMP registers. FF value Can exist in GPU TEMP register if the GPU Sensor isnt accesible with the default SMBus ECFW address (Fan goes to 100%). Cooler Boost (0x98) - 02 (Disable)/ 82 (Enable) Integrated Webcam (0x2E) - F4 (Disable / F6 (Enable) Power Mode (0xC6) READ ONLY!! - 40 (Battery Power) / C0 (AC normal power) / C1 (High AC or Hybrid Boost Power) Shift Mode (0xF2) - C2 (Green) / C1 (Confort) / C0 (Sport) Battery Charging (0x40 and 0x41) - 00 00 (Not Charging) / 8C 0A (Charging) note ; both registers can stay in 00 00 until battery decreases under 95% OR its not under Hybrid Boost state (higher load), to prevent discharge rates due to short-charging percentages) Unknowed Registers : ? (0xC7) DANGEROUS REGISTER!!! - 00 (Always/Default) / 01 (prevent battery report to EC. can prevent BD-PROCHOT pull up (800MHz CPU Throttle), DISABLE battery current limit in battery mode (<- This can burn Battery cells) and disables CPU and GPU Temperature Reporting. / 03 (Same as 1 and 2 Value) note ; very dangerous register. dont use it or take higher risks. my own report about EC registers. after further own testing, C7 dont disable battery sensors so isnt dangerous at all. but in msi models like the GT72 making use of register C7 can be dangerous because in that model disables battery throttling sensors.