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Thanks so much for the info. I'll set it up that way as soon as it arrives.

thanks for your interest . ya that's right that happened to me before but in this case it gave 8 beebs . but in this case there is no beebs and shutdown after few seconds

It is a problem. Do the process without the 1070 in. System tries to boot in PEG mode and fails. If you had an 880m or earlier, maybe it could boot

The Asus SP rating on AMD is less reliable because it can vary by temperature when the calculation is performed. It's kind of weird. The hotter the CPU is at the time the calculation is performed increases the SP value. I have only seen a change in the SP rating by 1 with my CPUs. My 9950x has an SP rating of 119 it goes down to 118 if I flash the BIOS when the system is totally cold. It may be different for the 9950x3d2 but 118-120 is about average. My 4585PX is SP120. However, the VF curve doesn't fluctuate as much. You can look at the Prediction area at the lower right to see what voltage value is displaying for a manual core ratio. Try setting a fixed all core ratio of 55.00 and look for a voltage value of 1.400V or less in the Prediction box and see if it will boot with the FCLK set to 2200. If it will not boot with 2200 FCLK I wouldn't want to keep it Use that first video that I shared with you the other day in this thread (added below) for tuning a per core PBO Curve Optimizer. Stronger cores will have a lower voltage value by default and will accept a smaller negative offset then the weaker cores. You want to see as little variance between core quality as possible when you look at the VF curve page in the BIOS. Being able and to set a deeper negative offset on individual cores that have a higher default voltage value on the SP rating page isn't a good thing to see. The wider the SP rating variance is on each core in a CCD is less desirable.

the gtx 1070 was installed but that shouldn't eb a problem I think . I followed the instructions . usb to fat32 with A03 and got the needed file renamed it and sent to the usb then pressing end and putting the power . now all the fans starts and laptop just not doing anything for 30 minutes tried five times . no beebs or anything

24x multiplier gets you roughly 3.2Ghz and is quite easy to acheive. I can do up to 27x on one of my 920XM, other one can do 26x. 24-25x is the "sweet spot" for temps and power consumption

Try restoring defaults in bios and see if that helps.

O&O ShutUp10++ v3.1.1104 Released on: 06/17/2026 3.1.1104 – released on 17/06/2026 Added “Show Differences” button in the overview panel “Don’t show again” option for the restore point prompt Ctrl+F keyboard shortcut for search/filter functionality Detection and linking of system-wide and user-specific setting associations Automatic search while typing PREM: Option to preserve notification counters and timestamps across application restarts PREM: Reset blocked settings button in the Settings dialog PREM: Informational message when no settings are blocked PREM: Update check can also be triggered from the menu PREM: Notification deduplication and activity log summary feature Improved L005 “Disable Windows Location Service”: Version-specific split (up to Windows 11 23H2) and new variant for Windows 11 24H2+ L001 (Disable Location): Added Night Light warning to the description in all languages Search now detects setting IDs even when ID display is disabled and offers to enable it Detection and removal of Copilot/AI desktop apps in RecallTerminator Optimized High DPI support PREM: Reset button is now only enabled when blocked items exist – setting IDs are shown in the confirmation dialog PREM: Updated tray icons with higher-resolution versions PREM: Activity Log timestamps now use localized date and time formats PREM: Tray icon status now uses OK/Warning indicators and localized tooltips PREM: Recall folder detection switched to service-based detection PREM: Copilot uninstallation now provides UI feedback and improved verification Fixed Description text was not displayed correctly for the last item and disappeared when clicking the scrollbar Crash when clicking a search result heading or the […] button PREM: Installation path is now correctly preserved during upgrades PREM: Tray icon was not reliably removed when exiting the application PREM: Main window was not displayed correctly in single-instance mode PREM: Incorrect display of the & symbol in tray icon tooltips on Windows 10 PREM: Fixed notification flooding after sleep/standby PREM: Dashboard was not refreshed after applying recommended settings during onboarding PREM: Progress bar was not reset after deleting Recall folders PREM: Fixed service startup failures PREM: Fixed incorrect drift detection when Automatic Protection was disabled PREM: Notifications now correctly count all deviating settings when protection is enabled PREM: Registration Wizard was shown after sleep/standby despite a valid license Microsoft finally admits its default Windows 11 25H2, 24H2 action broke key legacy component Sayan Sen · Jun 19, 2026 · Hot! 2 Microsoft has finally acknowledged that a default action in Windows 11 versions 25H2 and 24H2 disrupted a key legacy component.

Since installing the bios when trying to boot I seem to get this. Normally a reboot sorts it. could it be something to do with the new bios, as prior to installing I wasn’t having this issue.

Good Charlotte - The Anthem

See if you can increase the multiplier on your current cpu. I don't think you can but I never got to test without a XM CPU as that's all I have.

I think the cable can be swapped but it requires removing the plastic bazel which is glued in. Better to keep LVDS display as spare and get a eDP assembly. The 3D panel is quite nice for its time, way better than the 1600x900 display. With my BIOS 970M should work in both PEG & SG mode.

I’m shocked about that! My 5090 Astral OC was an open box from BestBuy so I was nervous since it was $3,800+ with tax, I wanted a return policy just in case, I tried the whole local Facebook market place thing, I almost got scammed with a core-less/memory-less 5090 (AKA Fifty-Nundy) , and this worried me. It’s also very hard to see the chips and core on the Astral models when you hold it sideways and try to peak between the PCB and cooler. When I first plugged in my open box 5090 Astral, I had no display at all. And I was like dang! I got a dud! But turns out I just didn’t have the display port seated all the way in to the GPU. I had to loosen and lower the card down like 0.5mm so I could clear the back I/O material on my case. Then it finally came to life! 😀 But it’s very worrisome buying GPU’s these days. You never know what you’re gonna get. Even if we tested a card that seems okay, it could suddenly artifact or be defective in some way that avoided our initial inspection. For the first few days, I just left it running stock and let it ride. I think mine was 100% returned due to buyer remorse though. It has held completely stable, and OCs good enough for me. Crazy they are stripping 5080’s though!! I’m very surprised by that.

Thank you for releasing this! just installed on my X R3 after receiving today. tons of new options to play around with. this bios is going to be incredibly helpful for overclocking when I purchase an extreme cpu soon, alongside when I get bored of the 970m 6GB I’m about to install which was from my M15X

Yeah I hope AMD is a smooth transition. I might assemble this thing on the Praxis test bench, run a single D5 pump, and single 480mm GTX, this way I don’t have to take anything out if my V3000+ plus case, and I could do some testing and make sure it runs okay. What exactly would a good or decent bin be? Is this based on SP? Or max ram OC with Gear 1? I want to push the fastest Gear 1 speeds possible. 😁 And I’m not settling for a turd chip. I’ll accept average or slightly above average is fine with me. But $900 for a turd is not acceptable.

Update: looks like the spare interposer was in the unused hdd caddy inside a rubber box, smart way to store it but only found it when preparing the caddy for tomorrow. either way the £16 interposer coming tomorrow will be used for my 2nd drive I plan on fitting soon, so not a total loss. going to install windows, update bios, fit my 970m & the remaining ram.

Blindsflash should work fine in most cases. Did you blind flash the A03 version without any GPU in the slot? No other version will work. I changed setting for the iGPU once and bricked mine.

Display info (image isn’t showing for me so will put the info here just incase) AU B173RW01 V2 P/N N04GM battery info (yet to do a full charge cycle , may improve over time) wear level 77.7% full charge capacity 20040 mWh

Oh here’s a photo btw. I don’t think this one has a nvme slot on the board either unfortunately. Would have been killer to have one.

Machine arrived. removed palm rest coating. thankfully it has the GPU fan & heat sink, even the gpu is there, GTX 560M sadly a 1600 x 900 display, it’s absolutely mint which is the only plus lol. battery working but I suspect it has hardly any capacity being the original. windows doesn’t detect the 560m nor does bios. Going to test with some working cards. the previous owner took one of the hdd caddy’s and both interposers so I had to pay £16 for a interposer including next day special delivery so I can actually boot from a ssd. currently booted windows 10 ltsc with a usb 3 drive lol. going to continue with testing and throw some ram in it, next week I’ll be buying some parts.

https://steamcommunity.com/app/223850/discussions/0/598527307801480746/#c598527452475617102 The dev of TimeSpy says the 5090 or 5080 can cause CPU overhead issues and not to use it. Rather Steel Nomad is better choice.

Hi everyone, I’ve been using my Asus ROG Strix G16 (i7-13650HX & RTX 4060) for about a year now. Recently, I started experiencing annoying micro-stuttering in games. The weird part is that my FPS remains high and stable, and there are no network ping spikes, but the system randomly freezes for a millisecond and snaps back. Specs & Current Setup: RAM/Storage: Upgraded to 32GB RAM + 512GB stock SSD + 2TB secondary SSD. (Games are installed across both drives, and the stuttering happens regardless of where the game is running). Software: I use G-Helper. The laptop is strictly kept in Ultimate (dGPU) mode, though the issue persists in other modes too. Troubleshooting Done: Clean GPU driver install via DDU, disabled Windows 11 HAGS, disabled all background ASUS services, and turned off all overlays (Discord, GeForce, etc.). The Main Issue (Temperatures): Since software fixes didn't work, I looked closer at G-Helper and noticed something alarming. Even when the laptop is completely idle or just downloading a game in the background, the CPU temperature instantly locks at 95°C. The fans ramp up heavily to around 70%, but the CPU temp refuses to drop. Meanwhile, the GPU is sitting comfortably at a very cool 44°C. When I first bought the laptop, idling temperatures were completely normal. My Hypothesis: I frequently commute with this laptop in my backpack, and it has sustained 1 or 2 minor drops (there is just a tiny dent on the chassis, nothing major). Since software is ruled out, I highly suspect a hardware flaw: a Liquid Metal migration/pump-out effect. I believe a portion of the CPU die has become exposed and lost contact with the heatsink. Under even the slightest load, the CPU instantly hits its thermal limit, triggering rapid thermal throttling, which causes the micro-stutters in-game. I have already opened the laptop before to upgrade the SSD, so I'm comfortable working inside it. Do you think a liquid metal repaste is the definitive fix here? Would love to hear your insights or if anyone else has faced this.

Another media outlet has reported a melted 12V-2×6 cable on an RTX 5090 test system. Club386 says its GeForce RTX 5090 Founders Edition and power supply were damaged after the 16-pin cable melted at both ends. So what is wrong? Either reviewers can’t test GPUs or there’s something (seriously) wrong with the design. This power connector isn’t fit for purpose, and Nvidia needs to admit it – our own GPU melting story It looks as though we’ve got a bit of time between now and the launch of Nvidia’s RTX 60 and AMD’s RDNA 5 GPUs, thanks to outlandish DRAM prices, and that provides a bit of breathing space. The next ATX standard needs to be better. If a cooker had a mains cable that caught fire like this, it would be recalled. This socket isn’t fit for purpose, and our industry, particularly Nvidia, needs to admit it. We need something better. Can't beat double up with the stupidity...

If you can buy the fan (CPU or GPU?) + heatsink screen assembly + the bottom case today, sure why not. I also have the RTX 3000 MXM, could do it for 130€ alone. Buyer wants to pay 430€ in the next week for the whole R4 I was about to strip. Let me know

Hi everyone, I'm planning to upgrade an Alienware M15x from an i7 840qm to an i7 920xm and overclock it. I already did this on my old Clevo W870CU a couple of years ago, but the chipset physically broke after I overclocked it too much. Can anyone who has done this tell me a safe overclock? I don't want to break this Alienware too. Thanks so much for your help.