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165fps does seem pretty high unless he is light on addons or not active during the really busy times. I also cannot really buy the 142fps (9800X3D) vs 98fps (9950X) either. I wonder if WoW had its threads across both CCDs. Back when I tested the 7945HX3D it seemed like the drivers + Game Bar mode did not always pin the game to CCD0 so I resolved to just using Process Lasso. 285K in simple 200S boost mode continues to outperform any laptop or desktop chip I tested in the past. No lag or stutter even in the busy areas or raids. His article also has no mention of Arrow Lake which was a pretty mature platform by late 2025 so at least worth a paragraph of discussion in my opinion.. I guess a 9950X3D2 is probably not going to give a meaningful performance boost in WoW either.

He updated the design again, he did every improvements. It costs 135USD to purchase. The heatsink made the GPU lost like more than 20C degrees by going from 2 to 3 heatpipes with a 55W TDP GPU and it's easily compatible with 120W with adapted adjustments. 3 heatpipes is what a 110-120W GPU uses normally. (Can depend on the core dimensions as well)

If the RTX Turing works then the Ada will work too. That's usually the testing I do in eDP, to know directly if the RTX Ampère and Ada will work or not. You can try it yourself. I don't want to disassemble existing systems. I have the standard 3 heatpipes heatsink so it's going to be very hard and I need to sell this red nebula 120Hz RTX laptop too, sorry.

I've had several laptops fall apart due to poor construction, hinges have been the worst culprit. My current laptop is an HP Envy, it has metal hinges that have held up very well. HP has replaced the Envy series with the Omnibook series. The following model appears to be the most similar to what I currently have: https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-omnibook-x-flipngai-16-as0047nr I cannot find any clear information about the construction of the hinges. Not in the manufacturer specs, not in consumer reviews, not in online duscussions. My experience isn't that one can't assume a "premium" device with a metal case actually has nicer or well made hinges; many laptops I've looked at in person will have the same bad plastic hinges on expensive models as the manufacturer uses on the cheap models. Currently I'm limited in my ability to shop in person, so I can't get a good look at any computers with my own eyes. Does anyone have any experience with this computer? Can you tell me about its construction? Are there any other models that are well built and won't have hinge issues? Other considerations: I expect I'm going to switch from Windows to Linux. I expect most distros will run decently any any modern hardware. Is there any distro that would particularly well suited to this hardware? I will be doing occasional Zoom calls and other video streaming. My current computer struggles when I use more than one camera at a time. It is getting old though, so I assume modern hardware will be able to handle that much more easily. Am I correct in that assumption? Are there any hardware considerations I need to make to be able to use two 1080p cameras at once while streaming? I may end up switching one of my streaming cameras to 4k. Are there any hardware considerations I need to make in regards to streaming with one 4k camera and one 1080p camera? I may need to do some video editing in the future. 1) What is your budget? $1,000 - $1200 2) What size notebook would you prefer? a. Ultraportable; 10" - 12" screen c. Thin and Light; 13" - 14" screen 14" is acceptable d. Mainstream; 15" - 16" screen 15 and 16" are acceptable e. Desktop Replacement; 17"+ screen 17" preferred 3) In which country will you buying this notebook? USA 4) Are there any brands that you prefer or any you really don't like? a. Like: HP has been good b. Dislike: Samsung. I have had several bad customer service/warranty issues with Samsung and will not buy their products. 5) Would you consider laptops that are refurbished/redistributed? No. 6) What are the primary tasks you will be performing with this notebook? General computing, video calls/streaming, sound recording. Possible video editing. 7) Will you be taking the notebook with you to different places, leaving it on your desk or both? Mostly desk use, occasional mobile use. 😎 Will you be playing games on your notebook? (If so, please state which games or types of games?) I'm sure anything modern can run Skyrim, so not a consideration. 9) How many hours of battery life do you need? Probably not more than 4 or 5, but higher is always good. 10) Would you prefer to see the notebook you're considering before purchasing it or buying a notebook on-line without seeing it is OK? Online is fine. 11) What OS do you prefer? Windows, Mac OS, Linux, Chrome OS, etc. Windows is acceptable, but I will most likely switch to Linux. Might partition. 12) What ports do you require on your laptop? (ex. MiniDisplayPort or HDMI? Displayport or USB-C w/ DP?) As many USB ports as possible. An SD card slot is also a BIG PLUS. Ethernet port is a plus. Screen Specifics 13) What screen resolution(s) would you prefer? See further below for explanations. 1080p is fine, but 4k would be nice. 14) Do you want a glossy/reflective screen or a matte/non-glossy screen? See further below for explanations. Strongly prefer matte, but glossy is acceptable. Build Quality and Design 15) Are the notebook's looks and stylishness important to you Not really. A color other than silver would be nice though. Notebook Components 16) How much storage space do you need? Ideally 1tb, 2 would be better. 512gb acceptable. 32gb of RAM prferred, but 16gb is acceptable. Timing, Warranty and Longevity 17) When do you consider purchasing this laptop? Within 6 moths to a year 18) How long do you expect to use this laptop? 5+ years. As long as I can squeeze out of it. 19) How long could you afford to do without your laptop if it were to fail? A few days to a week. 20) Would you be willing to pay significantly extra for on-site warranty, or would it be acceptable to you to have to ship the laptop to the vendor for repair with perhaps a week or more outage? I assume on site means taking it to a local repair shop. That is preferred. Shipping is acceptable.

Even NWR was impressed with the level of dedication to pass off a clearly stripped 4090 as legit.....visually. You've got to test hardware, period. Unless you know the person, test test test and implement a few other safety measures too like location, access to power to test and securing the item once tested good to avoid a bait and switch. If you can meet at a public swap area at a police station, always use that location. Back during the Cryptodemic, buddy was all excited about a killer 3090 Asus deal on local FB. I told him to insist on meeting at his local police station swap area and he agreed. Seller tried everything possible to NOT meet at the police station even though he was local too so he smartly passed on that one. I've also used Starbucks before to meet up and test hardware because they have plenty of outlets inside. It helps if it is a local Starbucks and they already know you. I used Barnes and Nobles a few times too to quickly test hardware. Let the seller know you WILL be testing the hardware on premises in your own hardware and it will be staying in there after testing and payment (Zelle, PP or Venmo FF) is then tendered. Unless it is a safe area don't use cash or you end up like my college roommate's friend who lived on campus too who met off campus to buy a Macbook Duo and ended up getting robbed. I tried to warn him to do it on campus in the common areas but nope.....off he went and received a pistol whipping and $2k lighter pockets. I remember being in Hong Kong years ago and watching an American lady who was traveling in our group get baited and switched on a high end camera at a downtown store. Funniest thing was watching the sales person who was speaking very passable english suddenly couldn't speak english when she called the police. Police told her there wasn't much they could do as it was her word against his. Lucky for her she used an Amex and was a long standing member. I helped her call her credit card right then and there from a payphone, explain the situation and they immediately put a hold on the transaction. Found out later when she got home they sided with her and told her to mail back the camera with proof of delivery so she did. The store actually called her from Hong Kong and tried to curse her out and insist she had to repay the transaction.....lovely yelling at a 65yr old lady.....classy. Welp...... 🤣

i upload this sample made in my GT60 system, if anyone like to try. make use of this register with care because i dont know at 100% secondary effects, i make use of it in my GT60 2OC without problems but in my system conditions, effects may vary between MSI models and submodels of the GT60/GT70

Well if you get a chance, try testing the 4070 or 4090 in the m17xr4 so people will know if it works or not. Which heatsink are you using?

Does anyone still keep the Audio driver for this laptop? Acer have removed all drivers from their website.

welp that was a quickie, the lightning Z vbioses only let me run one of the three fans 😄 wont bother testing the XOC versions, so Matrix it is for D2D now 🙂

Hey everyone, I hope that someone can be able to help me. I edited this post (deleted it) because after making the original post, magically by some laptop god intervention, the Alienware 17 R1 (Ranger) posted but then would lose power. After repasting the CPU (i7-4900MQ), screwing in the heat sink and connecting the CPU fan, it is back to the 5 beeps and not posting. I did not reconnect the P3000 yet. TLDR: I am rebuilding an Alienware 17 R1 for my friend and originally upgraded it to the following specs: NVIDA Quadro P3000 and i7-4800MQ from a i7-4700MQ and a Nvidia gpu. The motherboard is one that I purchased on EBAY that was listed as new and was post production (US seller). When I did this initially upgrade, I noticed that it would take several attempts at reseating the CPU before it would get to post. I didn't think anything of it because other than that, the laptop would work beautifully with no issues. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? I would appreciate the help.

“The 5070 Ti is an excellent choice. Definitely get it and enjoy it.”

Needs to add the "spiky" dissipation plate on top of the heatsink and it'll be perfect. I don't see any adjustments with the RTX inductors, maybe he didn't do that yet.

! YT. Oppo Find X9 Ultra ...and a few addons.

I mean this IS Asus...... did we expect any less? 🤣 I think users need to accept bending these cables just isn't a good call in any scenario..... Before the WVP2 and MSI sending me the MEG 1600T, I kept my tentacle as straight out as possible trying to bend only from the extensions themselves as far out as possible. But overall, it is just not a good design/cable.....

Now you need pay premium or even extra for good quality power cables from PSU manufacturers/ODM/OEM. And if you are happy with the cheaper OEM cables from said company you may be screwed. What next? Send the bill to Jensen because his love for cute small GPU PCB design hence the fragile GPU power connector? He won't pay. That's on you. Charging around $40 to $50 more for what is still a GPU power cable makes the safety angle harder to accept, even if the engineering does appear to reduce connector stress. ASUS puts a $50 tag on safer GPU power cables, ROG Equalizer now has a price

Looks like Alex finally got it fixed. Wow... scamming goes next level. The people worthless scum doing this kind of thing need to be exterminated.

I found the answer myself: you can just ask the guy to make you a 30 series one, and he will 🙂 Only vendor on TaoBao I could get to do it, somebody else complained about copper prices, others said they don't have heatsinks in stock anymore 🙂

I have no idea about the support on the P750... but I would expect it to work??

I stand corrected. This must be "new" for this generation, first I've heard of it. Typically, one of the drive slots has PCIe lanes attached directly to the CPU, and the others all go through the PCH, so this is not a surprise. Though I can't explain why Dell numbered them the way that they did (assuming that this is actually the reason behind what you are experiencing).

As expected, removing the lid switch magnet from the display bezel solved the issue of the Bios lock-up when the screen was closed.

Hi bro, do you still have the updated Origin stock BIOS? I have an Origin laptop as well. I'm done fiddling with the XMG BIOS and just want to see the Origin logo in the startup again. 😁

I have the Pro Max 16 Plus which came with a Gen5 drive. Something I discovered by moving the drive around is that one of the NVMe slots is faster than the other two. Physically it's numbered as the second slot although it's numbered as 1 in the UEFI since the UEFI numbering starts at 0. The included drive, which is a Samsung PM9E1, will reach 14500 MB/s in that slot but only around 12500-13000 in the other two.

No. I did bought an RTX 4070 but it's for the M4800. I didn't get the shipping number yet. Well I busted the myth of RTX cards in 120Hz in the Alienware. Works like on the M6700 120Hz. I'm trying to mod the heatsink because one of the inductors doesn't fit correctly yet... Some people said it won't work because the mux switch is too old for the RTX... I sold the 3080 (DP on DP_D) as I needed money for the 4090.

Brother, if i shunt mod too to 180w limit it will artifact too? I just want more performance on core not vram oc, your artifacting is vram related?