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I turned it off and sometimes i get code 43 in device manager. Im Not really sure if it is a driver problem although it seems to be working fine.

Has anyone upgraded their computer from FHD -> UHD touchscreen? I tried, but I can't get the image to appear on the 4k screen for some reason. The cable is new and so is the screen. Are there any settings in the bios that need to be done when changing the screen...

Start>Settings>Search for graphics and turn OFF "hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling" or something along those lines, restart and enjoy

I have a different one but it boots. I haven't tested raw performance yet as I have like 6 other projects. I am assuming it should work fine though assuming the PWR mod fixes the TDP issue The AW18 R1/AW17 R1 stock bios is actually the best in terms of modern compatibility. Literally any card up to 4090 (SG in 18, PEG in 17) works. The only thing I would like to do wih 18/17 bios is 17: eDP backlight support for newer cards Holding END while turning on laptop to reset nvram 16gb dimm support above 4g decoding 18: same as 17 except eDp backlight support enable over 330w power adapter like m18xr1/r2 Priority is m17xR3 m18xR1 AW17 R1 AW18 R1 M18xR2 Then maybe my other collection (M11xR3, M14R1/R2, M15x, M17x, M17xR2, Area-51m R1/R2)

OK, I have the EVC 2.0 working again. Between the python scripts and helpful suggestions @Day/drifter provided and using AI/search I am back in business on Windoze 10 and Winduhz 11. In case it saves anyone else the heartache, the instructions are posted below. Since it fixed the software not detecting the device in both OSes, it seems to be the remedy. I think the WireView Pro 2 installation and firmware updates to it may have been what triggered the malfunction because it is also an I2C programmer. Ensure the device is running the latest firmware (0009 or later), as older versions like L4 may require specific driver configurations. The WinUSB driver is not installed correctly. To resolve this, manually configure the Windows registry: Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\usbflags\048357400200. Set the osvc value to 01 50. Create a new DWORD named NewInterfaceUsage. Do not change the values. Create a new BINARY named SkipContainerIDQuery with value 01 00. Uninstall the device in Device Manager, but do not scan for hardware changes. Unplug the EVC 2.0 USB cable, and plug it back in. Launch the EVC2 Software in Admin Mode. EVC 2.0 Fix.zip

HELP!! I have Precision 7680 and shitty FHD 250nits screen... i bought (9Y5DM) 4k UHD screen and UHD cable.. should the uhd display work just plug and play or is there something to adjust with it. When the machine starts up, the red dell logo appears and disappears almost immediately. After that, nothing is displayed. The FHD display does work. I somehow believe that the cable is fine and the display works, but now there is some problem with the machine.. the bios has been reset, it doesn't help.. Both cables are connected to the machine /IR and EDP, which could be the problem, has anyone updated the display FHD -> UHD Touchscreen... Anyway, windows does recognize the display, intel UHD graphics.... help, my nerves are going... I dont know where these cables must go?? I have changed video bios in my RTX4000 ada, to lenovo rtx4000ada video bios... can that couse that video signal is missing in my UHD OLED screen??

I saw you had a 4090 in your 17, how it is performing? I assume Xvsion? I've focused on other hobbies but still like the idea and cramming one into one of mine.

Honestly no, we would need a board level rewiring to make the eDP from motherboard use DP_D position on mxm slot. Not viable in my opinion. What is viable however is to do a backlight mod, meaning you have to use an MXM gpu with regular DP (display port) on DP_C position. Then use a backlight v2 mod cable to get an image on the internal lcd. There's still a problem with windows drivers but that can be fixed as well. This is by far the best method and the mod cable is easy to install with no soldering.

@ssergey931 Yes that is because the iMac vbios has eDP on the correct spot for the zbook 17 g3. Other vbios have eDP signals on the wrong spot resulting in black screen if dGPU mode is selected. You can use my vbios overclocking program to get more performance out of it. I can get 1898Mhz on my core and 4504Mhz vram with my programs vbios. You feed it this iMac OC vbios and then select the clocks you want. The program only modifies clock tables, display tables are untouched and you will still be able to use the screen in dGPU mode.

Very nice, with an overclock you should get >1070M overclock levels of performance! Yes, I saw your post on techpowerup. It should work. If it doesn't send me your vbios and I will take a look.

Yes it happens with unsigned exes. You can download the source code, download python 3 and run CPR_MAIN.py and it will run the code directly without going through the packed exe. I see what you mean. The way the program works is by allowing the card to reach higher limit clocks. Meaning it will figure out the frequency/voltage points. It's not like msi afterburner's clock slider that uses the same voltage points but for higher clocks. For example, my p4000 stock vbios gave a maximum of 1240mhz @ 0.750v After the overclock from my program is applied it reaches 1898Mhz @1.050v. Unfortunately I doubt I will be able to obtain voltage control, I only found one person talking about voltage points and I could not find correlations with the clock table.

i have a question @SuperMG, exist a QUADRO RTX 4000 from another OEM in MXM format? because if you see here in this topic, i uploaded a youtube video link when a user uses a QUADRO RTX 4000 on a GT70 system. its probably the HP variant? or maybe from another OEM?

that card has HDMI in dp_C and eDP on DP_D, so if the bios/ec dont gives issues with video output. it should show image through external ports

ok! i finally go for the HP QUADRO RTX 4000. I listened as you said @SuperMG and i will do a heatsink/chassis mod as needed. i will post all the whole process in 2-3 months when the card arrives

Yeah she's a big girl haha

Then, why buy now as suggested here in the video? If people can't afford new cards forwards then none/or just fewer cards will be sold. Yup, something has to give. Crap tons of stock everywhere won't sit there forever. That's a very bad business model. We may see loads of GPU bundles with parts you don't want or need. Will GPU bundles with PSUs be the new king? NVIDIA Hikes Graphics Card Prices For The Third Time This Year And By Up To 30%, As Distributors Enter Panic Mode Some retailers who have adjusted their prices are predictably showing a sizable differential. For instance, the 16GB GDDR7 NVIDIA RTX 5070 Ti graphics card is now retailing for 10,700 Yuan ($1,581) vs. its price of 9,299 Yuan ($1,374) last week, and 7,200 Yuan ($1,064) in November 2025. Edit @Reciever the forum is awful slow today. Started be like this yesterday. Hope it soon will be fixed 🙂

I’m looking for advice from anyone who has experience with Turing MXM GPUs in the Alienware M17x R4. My system Alienware M17x R4 BIOS: Unlocked A15+ v1.4 (mfractal & svl7) CPU: Intel i7-3940XM GPU: NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000 MXM vbios (90.06.5F.00.32) Display: 1920×1080 60 Hz LVDS panel Windows 10 x64 NVIDIA Enterprise Driver 596.72 (modified INF) Current status The GPU works perfectly once Windows loads. No artifacts Stable in games PCIe x16 Gen3 works correctly (GPU-Z shows x16 3.0 under load) HDMI video works HDMI audio works after reinstalling the Intel HD Graphics package (Intel Display Audio) The problem I’m getting intermittent black screens. There are two scenarios: 1. Cold boot Sometimes after powering on: Alienware/Dell logo appears. Windows starts loading. Before reaching the login screen, the display goes completely black. Keyboard still responds (Caps Lock works). SSD activity LED continues blinking. The laptop is still running but nothing is displayed. Sometimes it eventually restarts by itself, sometimes I have to hold the power button. 2. Resume from sleep After waking from sleep: Screen stays black. Keyboard appears responsive. SSD activity continues. The system never recovers unless I force a shutdown. Things I’ve already tried Disabled Windows Fast Startup. Disabled hibernation. DDU and clean driver installs. Multiple NVIDIA driver versions. Updated Intel HD Graphics driver. PEG PCIe Link Speed set to Auto. Re-seated the MXM card. Code 43 Fixer (registry patch) resolved the intermittent Code 43 issue. Current BIOS configuration SG mode (Optimus) PEG does not work. If I switch to PEG, the laptop immediately gives 6 beeps during POST. As far as I know, PEG has never worked with this RTX 3000. Crash dump The crash dump consistently reports: DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE (0x9F) Failure Bucket: 0x9F_3_POWER_DOWN_nvlddmkm IMAGE_NAME: nvlddmkm.sys The GPU itself appears healthy: GPU-Z reports correct clocks. PCIe trains correctly. No crashes under gaming or stress testing. Once Windows boots successfully, everything works normally. This makes me think the issue is related to initialization or power management rather than a defective GPU. my question is has any one experienced similar black screens with turing MXM cards? Are there any bios settings that could improve SG stability?

and my upgrade of this modded Nahimic audio driver who makes the GT60/70 models compatible and may improve the audio experience on it. these models have a dedicated Audio Amp in motherboard so this improvements can help really good.

i post here the schematics and boardview files that i uploaded in this forum a few months ago, they are very useful for repair and upgrade diagnostics.

Hello everyone! i created this topic as a follow of the older NBR owners lounge from 2013! the intention of this topic is to help with issues and kind of Upgrades/modding for this family of models for those people that continue using them in 2026+. after using this model from 2023 i learned a lot of things about it. the idea of the topic as the same is for sharing user experience upgrades and tweaks. im at the moment working on a RTX gpu upgrade, so im going to share my experience here. at the moment some modifications (software/hardware) are possible in this model. the most important ones are the Bios unlock and the GPU upgrade. CPU and RAM can be upgraded as the same. if you have any experience with an Upgrade or a issue with them. post here!

Nice project you got there. For PSU try SlimQ 330W and get HP add-ons.

OMG I thought my ASUS G75VW was heavy beast at 10.4 pounds. That beast is 12.5 pounds 😲

Ah, then that wouldn't work for me. I like to float between projects in flux and know I always have something to work on at any given time. I can see that approach would drive you batty. My wife is a completest to the point she can have problems falling asleep if something she is working on isn't completed. She'll lay there and think about it. She will be dog tired (even now) and can't stop till something she's working on around the house is completed. Me? I can shut down my brain and disconnect. I had to learn to do it years ago because as a programmer, I couldn't turn off my brain even after work. I would sit there or lay in bed with code just dancing through my head to the point I would have to get up and keep working. A lesser form would take hold in any hardware or software (or even gaming) projects I did back then. Took awhile, but I was able to translate that into everything I do and learn to shut down and then turn it back on the next day. Agreed, we didn't know how "good" we had it back then but AI and generated scarcity is driving record profits. Companies are charging these prices but I see everything in stock in abundance on the consumer side except 5090s which are in the single digits at MC so the wall has been hit for everything 5080 and below. Cheapest is the $3599 Ventus..... Those two Gigabyte Infinity OC 5090s at my local MC are still in stock after all this time at $5299.99. Biggest shock was I haven't checked Best Buy stock in quite some time. Only two 5090s in stock. The $3999 MSI gaming and $4329 Astral. Newegg cheapest in stock is $4149 TUF 5090 with a very limited selection.... I mean....sheesh.... 5080s? Plenty in stock everywhere but prices are still going to rise across the entire stack outside of the 5090 which does its own insane thing.... https://videocardz.com/newz/msi-and-colorful-announce-rtx-50-price-increases-for-distributors-rtx-5070-ti-now-starts-38-over-msrp Incoming MSI and Colorful price hikes: It will take a bit, but as always these prices will hit everywhere else and in the US prices will just adjust up with some retailers adjusting in the now even with current stock on hand because....profits.... Glad I snagged that $983 open box 5080 when I did last week. Same as snagging that $1971 Vanguard 5090 last August. The market is reaching a point where inventory is just going to stagnate because even at current pricing clearly cards aren't moving same as ram and storage. Crap tons of stock everywhere..... Something has to give and when this crashes, I hope it is spectacular...

Hi there! As I am slowly closing my old project, there is a new one as soon as I bought replacement for ol' trusty rusty 8570w. With a nice price tag, I though "why not". It has 12th gen i7 HX CPU, A3000 gpu, lovely vapor chamber, 32GB of ram and a lot of potential. There are some things I don't like and some I do. As for now I wanted to : -Change keyboard Done! -Upgrade IPS LCD to OLED 120HZ 2K -Upgrade power supply to at least 280W or even 330W (I use puny 200W) -Make chassis sturdier and coolder? (I mean less hot furnance, more ice freezer) -Upgrade speakers -Upgrade GPU - A3000 to at least A3500 or higher -Newer motherboard? (If I win lottery, haha) I tried using chinesium big HP charger to smaller HP charger (as I have 280W left from 8570w), but failed. So I don't recommend them, laptop don't recognize those. And original 200W is burning itself slowly to death. Already bought cable with enough DP lanes for 4K ! Part number on photo. Now I have to save money for buying that sweet, sweet 120HZ OLED from Samsung.. Case is good, generally speaking, but I hate plastic bottom plate. I plan to try CNC that in aluminium.. maybe. And I have yet to think about modding palmrest to less of that of hot plate :F (no ideas for now) Before I bought that COMPUTOR (think of aliens voice in muppets, haha) I used for 2 weeks MBP 16" with M1. I disliked some things about that bitten apple, but it's ice like coldness and very good sounding (for laptop) speakers got me shocked. Inspired me so much, that I will try to replicate that characteristic. About things I despise (and I may be too lazy to do something about) is power button right on keyboard. Yuck! Quality is something to be desired, ex. DuraKeys on older HP are very hard to leave finger print on them, here it's much easier to leave grease (maybe because high temperature ?). Finish on older palmrest is better, too (same reasons as keyboard). Motherboard is more fragile, too. Those puny connectors and locks.. I can't count times I dissasembled old girl (about milion times, no kidding) and nothing brittled or got damaged. Here I was disconnecting LCD cable (for palmrest swap) and while connecting it back it's plastic locking tab almost flied itself to Moon. And I was careful about it. Keyboard is harder to swap, but at least it's screwed on, not riveted. Anything else comes to mind I will share here. Let the fun begin .. Now!

Hello. I'm new to this group, but I am not new to computers.