All Activity

If it were up to me, NVIDIA would be legally bound and on the hook for all of the costs and footing the entire bill across the board for all GPU and PSU connector meltdowns, with no room for exceptions or fine print exclusions, because they are the idiots that ushered in the crappified connector and gave the OEMs an ultimatum requiring them to use an engineering abortion. If that were true, I suspect it would no longer be used and everyone would be back to using legacy 8-pin PCIe power connectors.

They do have a point, though..... It is one reason I purposely used the MSI included 4 headed dongle of death originally with my Vanguard and my Suprim 4090 because if anything were to go wrong, it is on MSI. Worst case, the connector melts. Best case, just one of the tentacles (or more) melts down which is an easy replacement. Either way, the entire chain is on MSI. Now I use an actual MSI PSU AND a WV2Pro with two layers of warranty claim protection if my 5090 goes POOF! In this case, what caused it? The connector? The Asrock Cable/PSU? Both? Looking at the pictures, it appears to be an Asrock issue as it is burned on BOTH ends. Not that it doesn't suck, but I'm going to agree with PNY on this one and the owner now needs to go after Asrock and loop them in on the claim and see where things settle.

5090 resell prices are reaching peak insanity: Current bidding on a 5090 Vanguard on eBay hit $7k @tps3443 last few 5090 FEs sold went for ~$6k!! Average selling price is $6k+ and climbing.... In a few Facebook PC hardware groups discussions, those selling their 5090s are literally putting them up for ~$6k and selling immediately paid in cash or zelle. We all know where they are going, but still...... To say the temptation to sell my 5090 Vanguard isn't strong would be a lie 🤣 At this rate, I would basically be swapping my 5090 for a Mac Studio Ultra.... But the question is, can I be happy with the massive drop in performance vs my $988 5080 or $720 9070xt? If you sell your 5090, you're basically resigning yourself to the 5080 or 9070xt moving forward for the next ~2 years and depending on how the 6000 series pans out, it could be longer.... ------------------------------------------------------------- WoW Forever is a hot mess on Macs atm so devs have a lot of work ahead of them considering retail runs decent on the M4 Max. I picked up the Forever Edition since I have oodles of in game gold sitting there and just converted a chunk of it to real $$$. I've done this for the last I think 4 Xpacs? Mac Mini M4 (10 GPU cores): Macbook Pro M5 Max (40 GPU cores): ------------------------------------------------------------ Yeah, I am still accumulating parts / waiting for a few back ordered parts for my AM5/5080 SFF buildout, but right now the G16 is really checking all the boxes. I could see downsizing to just the Clevo PE60 at this point. I saw a few more 9950HX3D/5090 raiders pop up on eBay but at the moment I've lost my zest for them with the Asus atm. Are you going to play WoW Forever? I am, but the wife isn't feeling it as retail is her comfort zone. Even with the QoL improvements, it is still vanilla / classic so it might be a little too hardcore for her so we will see. ------------------------------------------------------------ Always a chance you take when you purchased open box / used items, but even laptops being stripped of their memory and SSDs: https://wccftech.com/msi-vector-a18-hx-amazon-listing-32gb-ram-ssd-missing/

This is nice... Double trouble and stupidity on top. What a combo. All PNY GPUs that require a 16-pin (12VHPWR / 12V-2x6) input include a PNY-approved power cable or adapter in the box. This cable is the only configuration covered under warranty. If a third-party power cable, adapter, or PSU cable is used and damage occurs - including melting, burning, overheating, or deformation of the connector - PNY cannot accept the product under warranty. Damage caused by non-PNY cables falls under the responsibility of the manufacturer of that cable or power supply.

Okay, first we need any ordinary contact cleaner spray based on isopropyl alcohol. There are tons of options on the market, but it has to be a pressurized can not a manual sprayer. Second you’ll need two or better three nearly dead AA or AAA 1.5V battery cells like from a TV remote control plus two pieces of any kind of wire or even a paper clip will do. If it's (in the best case) just a shorted ceramic capacitor it can be removed mechanically for example with a small screwsdriver and no soldering is needed. There are lots of them and the card can operate without one as well. No worries. Any ordinary inexpensive basic multimeter is obviously a big advantage, as other forum users have mentioned here.

Seing as your charger shut's off immediately, it is safe to assume that the main power rail (+19v) of your MXM gpu is shorted. The charger supplies the MXM slot directly, making it cut out with GPU installed = the MXM card is main power rail shorted. This is either due to a capacitor that shorted itself or a high side mosfet short, the high side mosdfet are driving a secondary power rail (+VCC_CORE, +VCC_VRAM, +VCC_PEX, +VCC_1.8v) Best case is a capactitor as it can't damage anything else, mosfet is more problematic as the secondary power rails I mentionned are all at <2v and they suddenly received +19v for a few milliseconds, this is enough to internally destroy the core or the vram chips. I would highly recommend you get a multimeter, even at your local hardware store it will be less than <10$ and very useful for future projects/life. With the multimeter you can trace down the short and then you will need a controlled power source, such as a lab bench PSU to inject a small voltage of 1v @ 2-3 Amps so that the shorted components warms up. Then the component must be replaced (this is more complicated) You can also go to a repair shop and tell them you think it is main power rail short because of charger cutting out immediately, if they do actual motherboard level repairs (not a given) they should be able to confirm it and tell you if the card is fixable.

A very hard visual check will most often NOT find the fault, even with a microscope.....you can get lucky but don't count on it. Try your phone on magnify and go over EVERYTHING. Twice. Without being able to power the laptop with card installed means you can't even use heat to pinpoint a shorted power rail component. A variable power supply would let you low power the card by itself to find a short, but I don't recommend you do that first. A cheap multimeter will get you a better idea.

Hi, yes it’s still relevant. I’d really appreciate the help. Right now im using my old 765m Should i go to a repair shop? What would you suggest I check first?

Hi It could be any of those of course. I can try to help you in the simplest way I know. If this is still relevant.

Yes and I got a 4090 MXM with backlight mod v2 on the P775TM1 as well without using any external power connector. Even an RTX 5000 HP works

It’s worked 😁

Despite having windows updates turned off they still force them through. Can’t seem to boot into safe mode (only F2 for BIOS works), no other device available to create a recovery disk. Any ideas? Edit* For some reason the bios had gone back to RST instead of AHCI, switched back and it’s fixed.

i Just tested it and was able to access the Bios in full UEFI whit an external keyboard. If your RTX 5000 cant pull more than 90w, i think its becous of the VBios

You can get the Alienware 17 R1 120Hz, sliderfra has one. It has AVX 2 instructions for the CPU and it's compatible with RTX PEG. You can sell back the M17X R4 if you want or not.

I’d like to upgrade to the best GPU I can if i got a very good deal, but I’m worried about the bottleneck and whether the performance would really be worth it with the 3940XM. I’m also not sure if it’s worth doing the whole 120Hz eDP cable setup and all the other modifications.

At that time I didn’t really know what else I would need to change. My M17x R4 has the 60Hz LVDS display and the 3-pipe heatsink, so I wasn’t sure what would be required for a 3060/4060 upgrade. That’s why the RTX 3000 seemed like the safer option at the time. Unfortunately I don’t think I have any warranty on the 3000.

For that price and with a bit of extra money, you could have bought the RTX 3060 or 4060 MXM! RTX 3000 = RTX 2060 Mobile. I sell an RTX 4070 MXM, compatible with 120Hz M17X R4 and AW17 R1. Any warranty of the 3000?

Here’s the link from ebay https://ebay.io/m/S2OXcM

I bought it back in May as open box condition from ebay for $305, so I don’t really know how it was used before I got it. It worked fine for me and temps were usually around 68–72°C under load, then it suddenly shut off while gaming. And I don’t have a multimeter to check the components🫤.

You should look with the multi-meter, every components then... But is it worth it? Did you buy the card brand new or used? How was it used before?

The black plastic insulation next to the MXM slot is still there. I also insulated the X-bracket area with a tape but the charger still trips. With the RTX removed or the GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally. So it looks more like a short on the RTX board itself.

Can you use some kapton tape to cover the X-bracket metallic zone? And retry? Does your motherboard still have the black plastic filter next to the MXM slot? It's to avoid short-circuit.

I also thought it could be the heatsink, but I tested the RTX installed without the heatsink with the laptop powered off and just plugging in the charger still makes the charger LED shut off. With the RTX removed, or with my GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally. I don’t see any obvious burnt capacitors either. Before it died the GPU was usually around 68–72°C at 96–99% load, so it was performing well and wasn’t heavily thermal throttling. So I’m thinking there may be a short somewhere on the RTX board itself.