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yes:)

I just tried finding the .fd file in the A05 BIOS and yeah, it's not there, as far as I can see. I have done the blind flash trick on a few M17x R3's and R4's but never a Ranger. The process may be the same but it could also be very different as, from memory, the CMOS/NVRAM is a little different in the 17. Since there is no .fd file then it may not be possible. I think you will have to try the memory trick that Eban mentioned above. The Fabulous MrFox gave these instructions.

It sucked when they ruined Battlefield and Call of Duty single-player campaign with this rancid feces. I refuse to purchase games where the developers have gone down the dictatorship path. I wouldn't install and play them even if they were free. I am happy to say that I don't care about Fartnite so this butthead move won't affect me directly, but it still sucks because some people do care about it. I really do hope that all of these game developers start losing money and struggle to maintain solvency because of their stupid decisions. They do not deserve to be successful when they force anti-cheat cancer on people that only play single-player campaign. #36,537·a moment ago (Edited) I will not purchase or play (even if free of charge) any game that requires me to enable TPM or Secure Poot in the BIOS. I have been buying and playing Battlefield and Call of Duty since the first release in each franchise, but I am done with them now. I only play single-player campaign. Yet, they insist on dictating this unacceptable filth even in circumstances where cheating is a non-issue, so to hell with them and their cancer game crap. They will not receive another cent from me if this is how they roll now. And, I am not the only former player they have lost. If they were paying attention they would recognize that this dictatorship mentality is one of the reasons that Micro$lop is losing OS market share at an unprecedented rate. PC gamers and enthusiasts are not Kool-Aid drinking zombie sheeple like crApple users are.

I think they know that they have already lost the support and confidence of all of the smart people of the world. That leaves them with people that are not smart, which buy crap like Arm devices and disposable trashbooks.

This smells more and more as cApple @Mr. Fox Microsoft tune their OS to match their modern trashware. Microsoft confirms Windows 11 26H1 will be for Arm devices only at launch

And it gets worse... Fortnite escalates anti-cheat by mandating Secure Boot, TPM, and IOMMU

r u sure is higher? bcs the 4980hq itself is 1.65mm + the PGA package, n a native pga CPU is 4.7mm, when its higher maybe using washers will help? n when i find a 2x8GB kit of 2133 mem, i will give the 4980HQ a try, when it only last a year, its ok, so it will cost around 5 bucks/month, less then every streaming abo 😄

Yes they need a newer one and a better one... 4 heatpipes design if possible.

yep i know, but maybe someone want put in one of those cards with the center placed GPU, then need a new heatsink.

That was for the RTX 4050/4060/4070 MXM type A. This cutting mod won't work on the offset center RTX cards.

i spoke to cicichen, for 100 bucks he will make a RTX(those with the GPU in the middle of the PCB = 3080, 4080, 4090 etc.) compatible heatsink for the 7720, so when someone want one i think will order one, maybe getting cheaper when he will make some more.

Update: I uninstalled all graphics drivers and monitor drivers using DDU (Display driver uninstaller) in safe mode. Then I ran Lenovo Commercial advantage to reinstall the drivers. All drivers are reinstalled. Still the same problem.

Anyone else running 5070, 5080 or 5090 in AGA? For some reason my laptop doesn't stay asleep and transitions to off overnight. I just tweaked some settings in the power area (I think HDD power savings not set to never was the issue). Hope that resolves as I am required to unplug/plug back in the AGA to get the 5080 to proper PCIe settings. I am hoping to just keep my stuff open and sleep overnight and wake fine.

Ty. I installed the new BIOS. Unfortunately that did not solve the issue.

So i'll buy disk with PCIe 4.Thank you guys.

Furtunately, i've solved this issue. Am i right there no need to downgrade BIOS from A15 to A12 original befire flashing unlocked ?

Get the ZRT RTX 4080/4090 and the best CPU available for that platform. I tested Optimus with the cable on. The brightness control works of course because the display is rooted from the iGPU. in dGPU, the display comes from the GPU. The brightness control may not work and you'll be stuck at 100%. Some motherboards allow brightness control without being dependent from the dGPU such as the Clevo P570WM3. On the M6800, the brightness control is dependent of the GPU. I'll make a version 2 of the backlight mod cable (once 80% of the v1 is sold). It'll have a manual tiny PWM slider to control the brightness (pin 27)

Well, we're talking about a specific laptop that has a specific processor socket for which there are no Xeon processors.

Ah yes, I have read some performance issues/limitations if it is working through Optimus. Does the backlight not work using Optimus? I will have a look at the RTX 4080 or 4090 ZRT version or Quadro RTX 5000 depending on your recommendations.

https://www.overclock.net/posts/29559222/ So I did more testing and this is where I am at now. My max boost is no longer hitting 5950 and maxing out at 5819. I will see if I can figure that out. Maybe I can deepen CO a bit more on one or two of my best cores and get that back. But, no more TM5 or Karhu errors. Passes fine now with PBO same as it did with manual OC. So, it was CO causing the errors and not memory. I also ran two iterations of CoreCycler without error. (Man, talk about boring... takes forever, LOL.) What is interesting is how the individual core SP ratings in the BIOS coincide with the stable CO negative offset. So far I have found cores with the same SP rating are stable with the same negative CO offset. I am sure there is some fine tuning to be done on top of that, but it might be a good starting point or point of reference in troubleshooting. With the current CO settings (5819 MHz vs 5950 MHz max clock) CPU-Z single thread shows a loss of about 8-10 points and multi-thread about 200 points loss. If I use "Balanced" power profile and enable core parking all core intensive benchmarks end up in the toilet. This is a Windoze garbage OS performance-destroying issue (Micro$lop calls it a "feature" LOL) and not hardware.

how i said, would be LGA 1150 with LP xeon, n more then enough ddr3 sodimm modules with ECC ava, bcs supermicro used them in their mini workstations

Awesome, thanks. That's the KF564S38IBK2-32 (16GB x2) DDR5-6400 CL38 262-Pin SODIMM Kit right?

@MiSJAH sure, buddy - here you are, those are my 24/7 ram timitngs at 7000 https://postimg.cc/gallery/ghnDBfG

Re-pasted over the weekend with the Thermal Grizzly version of PTM (supposedly the same just re-packaged in smaller/more manageable sizes), kept the original thermal pads because they were all still soft and tacky, I did move a couple because it looked like from factory they were only making half contact. Temps before (with undervolting and reduced clocks) and max fans. 11900f @ 4.2ghz, 90mv undervolt - Idle 60c+ / gaming 95-97c and throttling RTX3080 16gb - Idle 55c+ / gaming 80-85c and throttling. Temps after (with undervolting still) but fans on auto, usually at 10-15% idling and 30-40% gaming. 11900f @ 4.5ghz, 75mv undervolt - Idle 30-40c depending on usage prior / gaming 80c roughly. RTX3080 16gb +180mhz core +1200mhz memory (and undervolted) - Idle: same as CPU / gaming 50-58c That’s a HUGE reduction, I can use Helicon focus to stack 60+ photos without the fans kicking in despite 90% CPU load and 80% GPU load, same with Lightroom consuming 20gb ram and all 16gb VRAM. Still can’t get the BIOS to accept my memory settings no matter how I try, considering my photo editing software / games seem to run my GPU at 80-99% even with a +180mhz on the core and +1200mhz One thing I’ll say though is despite my 1080p screen being 72% NTSC (99% adobe RGB) the colours look completely different compared to my phone when editing is done and I’m uploading to Instagram, my work laptop looks almost identical to my phone. How much calibration is possible with these? Is it worth jumping to the 1440p screen if I can even find one? Based on the CPU, Ram, 4tb NVME and RTX3080 MXM I could potentially split the parts and make almost enough money to upgrade to a 5070ti laptop but tbh I’d rather keep this if I can get the colour space right, it’s a bulky beast but it works and it was cheap, plus it’s fun to tinker with.