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Use thermal pads on the GPU please. 1.5mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for the VRM. You have the backlight mod v1 and the instructions are on the v1 thread. Normally you should see the splashscreen image and BIOS page on your screen if the backlight mod is working. Do you get a blackscreen on Windows with or without Nvidia drivers? I can't help you further, I already helped you a lot and the v1 instructions are clear. If you have any questions please don't write them on this thread, juste private message me instead.

I'm installing it exactly according to the instruction manual, though...

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Hi all, I want to know what I can get for a XMG Zenith Clevo P870TM-GS 17,3“ 4K Display 2x16GB DDR4 GTX 1080 8GB with Vapour Chamber second 1080 is dead. I7-8700 2x330w incl. Adapter Is in good Condition except one „scratch“ above the keyboard. https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9426/4u9sp7hf_jpg.htm https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9426/pxvqwrgc_jpg.htm #3 https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9426/h4g3rks3_jpg.htm #4 https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9426/3uuegn7p_jpg.htm #5 https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9426/owh3ucng_jpg.htm

I don't think you read my messages. You need to use thermal pads to fix the issue on the VRAM and VRM. Using your GPU without thermal pads is not good. I don't even think you understand what you're doing if you don't understand what the backlight mod does...

As expected, the heatsink and the card did not fit together when mounted on the main unit; I need to shave down part of the heatsink. Also, I connected the FPC cable, but the screen did not display anything. I likely installed the FPC cable in the wrong position. The screen wasn't displaying anything, but I heard the Windows startup sound, so I think it will work if the FPC cable is repositioned.

Making a rare appearance, good timing I guess. Not to be a nihilist about it, as nihilism is lame and pure evil, but part of the reason I've partially stepped out of the technology realm is because of how politicized it's become over the past few years. Won't get into it here, but the whole reason I got into all of this stuff was mostly as an escape from the world. Physical hardware had almost nothing to do with any societal/political issues besides maybe the pricing of hardware. Not only have availability and innovation fallen off, I can't even discuss my joy and appreciation for technology without it spiraling into a political discussion. Maybe it's just me being at university and being surrounded by more people that have a very active political life than the average joe, but it just sucks. I can't fully describe it, but I have lost most confidence in sharing this hobby of technology and computer hardware I have with others ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. The future will be brighter, but I'm impatient and want the future to be now, just as all of you guys probably want too. Hopefully you all will still be here to celebrate when things get better 🙂

Nice to see you back bro Vasu. And yep, desktop all the way. Modern Jokebooks is just a bigger tablet with KB😀 Today's joke. Smuggling by now will be fixed. Just handle over your ID. And will MC ban you from their store if you sell your old hardware (to friends) outside US now?🧐 Nice seeing the retail follow up the governments chips ban, and stop the smuggling of nvidia chips (sarcasm). China will get needed chips anyway. So in the end, the random US customer is the one dealing with ID checks and export declarations at the checkout. Meanwhile, the larger export operations these rules are supposed to address have already found cheaper and more efficient ways around them. Micro Center now requires RTX 5090 buyers to show ID and sign no-export declaration

I understand, they’re right. Sometimes it’s really difficult and takes a very, very long time to find the fault. Sometimes the quickest fix is to replace the motherboard, but it depends on the situation of course. The only thing that comes to my mind that you can do yourself at home in this case what I remember a similar situation where (I’m not sure if it was an R3 or R4) the system started running unstable after an emergency shutdown, what helped was flashing the EC controller’s flash memory for example using a CH341A programmer. But that’s about as far as you can go at home and it costs almost nothing, just a little time.

@Mr. Fox @Papusan I'm back to desktop after a small break of 15 years. The laptops don't cut anymore. Anyway I repurposed the RTX 4070 Super eGPU for Raptor Lake Refresh 14400f and measly 2x8GB DDR4 3200MTps, MSI bomber B760M AX211 WIFI mobo and 512GB SN3000 QLC drive as costs for DDR5 16GB 6400 has driven up to 500$ for basic ones and good ones sell for 1200$ per stick.I got them for 600$ including the case. Too many issues with eGPU on windows 11 and stopped trusting Defender to go for Kaspersky Standard AV as I started getting few indie games and apps early for review for my youtube channel. All of the desktop are in test bench as I'm sick with HFM which my sister had couple of weeks ago. Stock RM1 Cooler can't sustain 120W and 45C ambient. Tweaked few settings in TS and uploaded few unofficial DLSS 5 mod into Miles Morales (lot of artifacts indoor lights/env), NFS MW Redux (much more cleaner graphics/UI).

I skipped Windows 11 25h2 for 23H2 with Sept 2026 updates and runs much smoother than 25H2/26H2.

Update: The repair shop tried to repair the Quadro RTX 3000, but unfortunately they couldn’t get it working. I did not ask what part was shorted. I also had them check the laptop’s charging behavior. The laptop works normally if I connect the charger before turning the laptop on. However, if the laptop is already running on battery and I plug the charger in, the charger LED comes on and then fades out, and the charger shuts off. It stays off until I unplug it from the wall and reconnect it. I tested another known good 240W charger and it does the same thing. It also happens with the MXM GPU removed. The repair shop said it’s likely something in the motherboard’s charging/DC-in circuit, but it’s a difficult board level issue to trace and there aren’t readily available replacement parts. They recommended that I just use the charger normally connect it before powering the laptop on and leave the issue alone rather than spending money trying to repair it. So for now I’m keeping the M17x R4 with the 765M and leaving the RTX alone and i might come back for it🫤.

Cicichen gave up on the 2 in 1 (watercooling and air) powerful RTX 40XX heatsink so I bought the powerful fan. I hope he can do the watercooling only for the CPU side with better heatpipes.

3DM11 is the GOAT benchmark. Good choice.

I have no idea I do not have any of them. I think what is more important is the surface size of the radiator. I could not imagine that a laptop heatsink can dissipate that much heat.

For your spare time, an interview that views AI as an 'evolutionary history' event (45:15 and on). It may be that, no because of its qualities per se but because of the way influential people treat it. For a technology that has a risk of quality degradation with increased training on synthetic (non-human generated) data (doi: 10.1038/s41586-024-07566-y) the prediction of its future performance seems rather difficult. Present capabilities cannot predict future capabilities. And of course, it's not reasoning, it's predicting numbers that are matched to characters. It can be useful for finding patterns and making educated guesses based on its training corpus. The decisions of powerful people to treat AI as a deity will however be evolutionary history. And not in a good way.

I see, now, thank you! They both do need heatsink modification, as they both have 5 inductors on the right side. I'll talk to Cicichen. Other than that, should there be any other problems?

Hi, yes of course there’s nothing special about it. However this only applies if your card shows the exact same symptoms mentioned here. Before you begin I recommend practicing the procedure a bit first, because you’ll need to work very quickly when searching for the defective component. So first using the IPA spray mentioned earlier create a thin layer of frost on the card (simply spray until it becomes visible). Second very quickly connect two half-discharged batteries in series (these will replace the lab. power supply and since the internal resistance of a half-discharged battery is high the voltage will immediately drop to a few tenths of a volt under load, but the current will be sufficient) using pieces of wire to the card’s power contacts (be careful to observe the correct polarity, otherwise the Zener diode will trigger and the test will be ineffective). Very quickly after connecting the batteries the fine frost on the defective (short-circuited) component will immediately melt due to the heating and that’s all. Dry it by blowing on it or using a paper tissue for example and repeat the process from the other side. If the test result is unclear add another cell a half-discharged battery and repeat the entire process again. If it’s just a small ceramic capacitor, you can remove it mechanically. For other components unfortunately, you’ll need a hot air gun and a soldering iron. (Instead of IPA spray, I prefer to use a vaporizer with soldering rosin and it’s worked perfectly for many years. A thermal camera does a good work too. I use a Diametral lab. power supply and a METEX multimeter both of which have been running without a single issue for 25 years just for the curious. )

Alienware 14 R1. 3DMark 11 score of 4,568. Please let me know if this is good or bad for what the laptop is, lol. This was my first time using 3DMark. I decided to use 3DMark 11 since my graphics card is on DX11 and that version of 3DMark is free. Benchmark was ran at my laptops native resolution of 1366x768p. Hopefully I have done it correctly. Link to 3DMark results: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/17007367 Screenshots attached.

That's really strange. I've never had a filter crack before. I'm wondering if maybe it had a defect. Using the chiller has never affected mine and it gets close to freezing point.

I would say yes, if the MXM interface of these cards is the standard one. You might need to watch out for the heatsink screw holes + these cards probably have a beefy VRM on the right side of the card (m2X00m) cards have only 2 inductors, these might have 4 or 5 so heatsink modification might be required. Just like the RTX4000 MXM-A series of cards that X-vision sells Here is an M2200 : and here is the 4070 MXM Also what is nice is that you can use a 4K or 4K dreamcolor LCD with the zbook 15 g3 and still keep the integrated graphics to drive the LCD. Might be worth the upgrade to utilize the extra GPU power since the 6th gen CPU you have will limit FPS regardless of display resolution.

Honestly pushing for more value is harder than I realized, have to push down the imposter syndrome and take a risk. Looks like they are targeting October 16th but they will have to agree to my salary demand. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On another note, even if the 5090 was 2,000 I still wouldnt pick one up if I didnt have a WVP2 in hand to go with it, too much risk. It doesnt make sense to not have it. Looks like I get to drain the loop this weekend. One of the filters cracked (the glass) likely the cold air hitting it with the hotter water on startup? I have enough tubing thanks to @Mr. Fox recommending mcmaster I bought around 25 feet of tubing for exactly things like this. Was able to patch it and I do have a cup under the leak but for now it looks like it stopped leaking.

The only thing more stupid than that price is a moron willing to pay that. There are more imbeciles than I ever thought there could be.

Thanks brothers🙂 Asus just increased the prices again on their US store... Vanilla 5090 Astral is now close to $5500. If you can find one at MSRP in the US. https://www.asus.com/us/motherboards-components/graphics-cards/all-series/filter?Category=NVIDIA&Spec=354488 5,999 euros = $6,746,78 USD The price of the GeForce RTX 5090 only knows one direction. At the beginning of September, the GeForce RTX 5090 exceeded the price mark of 5,000 euros...