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  2. Yaheo R.
    @Aaron44126 I give up on it, until I noticed the GPU is n17e-G1-a1 which is the GeForce GTX 1060 not the n17e-Q1-A1 which the P3000 😅😅😅😅 So a fast recap: - I got the GPU, black screen ACPI boot loop. - Flashed the ES vbios of P3000 as provided above using programmer, it displays now and boot to windows but can't install drivers. I hope this finding will help us reach a solution Master🙏
  3. electrosoft
    Temps are even better by 3c lower after a few adjustments down to ~71c vs 9800X3D sitting at ~80c. Not apples to apples though. #1. I didn't follow my own classic LM rule and actually apply a little extra on first application versus subsequent touch ups which I use less. I saw a few flat/dull spots and just added a touch more and reflowed the surface amount and redistributed on the heat spreader. #2. I added nylon flexible washers to the bottom plate. Something I've done on the regular in the past to not only compensate for any potential Z-height height issues (if any) but more importantly give a little flexibility to tamping down screws to auto compensate for any thermal expansion if I'm not using the ILM which I have sometimes removed for better/direct pairing and relied on hand cranked mounting pressure with a torque adjustable driver. I had initially opted to bypass this step but added it back in this time around. It provides more value on laptops that support desktop CPUs overall with all the various pairing issues and such. I ordered a few custom cut shims ~2mm that will arrive next week for some comparison data vs no washers vs several AIOs especially the ID Cooling Frost Flow x 280 which has zero compensation/extended range when tamping down the CPU block vs my EK CR240 or Lian Li II Performance Lite 360 which both give extra headroom for pairing and can somewhat compensate for the loss of the 2mm z-height with the TG Heatspreader. I do think TG should have offered a normal height heatspreader or at least present their data showing core temp differentials between both versions tested in house. Maybe it is floating around out there on the Internetz somewhere. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- What a great advertisement for the TG WV II Pro....... seriously, Roman sits around and thinks of the stuff HE would want as an enthusiast, former high level OCer and just lover of tech. Not sure why he doesn't have or used GPU Tweak III to see how it responded.... Watching it immediately pick up that load imbalance and spit out a warning was nice to see. Hook in the auto off wire function and it would even immediately shut down your system for you too. That's two be quiet! PSUs involved in meltdowns in the matter of a few days. One using the 12vhpwr and the other using 4x PCIe 8 pin. I don't think it is be quiet's fault at all. Just an odd coincidence but more importantly burns and failures completely away from the 12vhpwr connector on the GPU itself but instead the PSU and/or PSU cabling. I'm sure they're going into damage control mode though as a precaution. be quiet Dark Power 13 (This is HUB, I'll assume the 1600w model) be quiet! Dark Power 13 (Club386 burned at both ends) be quiet Straight Power 11 Platinum 1200w (Tech Notice) (time stamped at PSU ID) Just a trash connector....it really is......
  4. JarvisMrclevo
    JarvisMrclevo joined the community
  5. Today
  6. GuitarG
    Nice work! Let me say my 2 cents, if CPU gets hot, GPU fan kicks higher gear too ? I see dents on heatpipe, it may be too damaged to work properly now. Try using "sandwich" technique to solder metals - distribute clamp force evenly using thin metal from up and down of heatpipe. Also if using premade heatpipes, check which side is cold side, because this is important. Heatpipes have hot side, CPU/GPU side simply saying and cold side, where fins are located. Most efficient are those with less bends and smaller angle. If fins are located in middle, it may also perform worse compared to fins welded on "end". Hotplate connection to gpu die is also big one, as level as possible and smooth surface helps. Lastly, always use up to date soldering paste (I made this mistake myself, I used one time paste that was past usefulness date - it connected metal but no trasfer of heat at all..) and connect metals solidly (I don't know how to describe but think of wood glueing - there is saying the less glue you use then better it holds) - good and big contact surfaces are MVP here. So anyway, nice job ! Good luck!
  7. Mr. Fox
    BeQuiet PSU is a better thing to fail than an Astral 5090. The petite arson feces connector doesn't care what it ruins.
  8. MODDER1
    Thanks a lot for the knowledge sharing! A pipe bender would allow me to be more precise in fact Thanks mate! It's encouraging for me that the base is good and it can only get better. What i will try know is to align the fins and the fan near perfection, it will definitly help pushing the heat better.
  9. SuperMG
    The X170SM/KM are dead platforms like the X7200. You can't upgrade the MXM nor downgrade it! You're stuck with RTX 20XX to 30XX Clevo format for the SM and stuck with only RTX 30XX Clevo format for the KM! For me the 4090 is better than the 5080. 5080 isn't doesn't have a 150W VBIOS. It's a 135W. No need to upgrade from that.
  10. Tetsu
    If the RTX 5080 works with the Backlight Mod v2, I would like to purchase it. If the RTX 5080 works, the lifespan of older laptops could be extended even further. I want to use it in a P570WM, though there are issues regarding the X-bracket and heatsink... Also, unfortunately, I do not have the schematic for the X170KM.
  11. Mr. Fox
    The 16GB G.SKILL modules are definitely better for Ryzen than 24GB sticks, especially on ASUS. Try the Strix X870E-E memory settings I used in this video. Bear in mind that X3D CPUs are always going to have a memory latency penalty, usually 1 to 3 ns. Set the "Core tunings Configuration for gaming" to Legacy and that should bring it down a bit. If the 8000 C34 settings are too tight, try the 8000 C36 settings that I use on the B850MPOWER. There is almost no difference in memory benchmarks between the two. Too small to matter.
  12. janepa
    Yes, years ago I built a similar model with a loop and it worked well, but in the end I decided to go a different way because of easier installation and removal needed. Your idea is also possible of course. There are several options available. No, this is the original fan that was damaged it was missing a few blades it was basically a scrap. Here you have the option to remove the all original blades keep the fan core and attach a newly designed ring with blades shaped as needed. I also had a problem controlling the fans, but I eventually solved it by using my own small control electronics.
  13. Daedalus
    if memory recalls i dont think linking the pipes back to GPU copper plate would be efficient, i get the logic of hot running to cold point (fan) though. I always understood heatpipes work best with a temp gradient from one end to other. looping would increase copper mass, you might benefit from two pipes ending up at exhaust grille. just my 2c. Is that a 3d printed fan? i ask as i had sooooo many Ali fans working out which would fit in DVD bay then the headache of supplying different brand fans with HP happy power.
  14. 1610ftw
    Sorry, only saw this now. When I pulled up the wattage of the Alienware I did not have to do any shunt modding and I found the performance increase going from 180W to 200W quite negligible and not worth the added heat so I did not continue to use it. With the 2070 I would expect a pretty much linear increase in performance up to about 150W so you probably hit a sweet spot there. What was your previous power uptake?
  15. schmendrik started following minimum Brightness of LG Gram Displays , good evening and LG Gram SuperSlim 15.6
  16. kela-slk
    great work, but low data - needs benchmarks and compare results with stock oem.
  17. schmendrik
    i think the only unusual thing here is the 30cd/m minimum brightness that LG sets without any apparent reason. or can you tell me why? over the years i have never encountered a single manufacturer with this curiosity. these are useless in a dark room.
  18. electrosoft
    So glad everything is working out this time around! Last time, you had three points of failure to try and diagnose (MB, Mem, CPU), and returning it all was the right call and paid dividends nicely. 6600 is super golden as is 8800 like on Sugi's setup which is bonkers. Makes ya wonder about the second one you have at this point..... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This 9850X3D can do 6600 but fails during TM5. 2233 flat out won't boot but 2200 on stock is just fine. Temps are the problem as they were fine the first few days (~74c under CB23 looping load) and now are hitting 95+ from the jump so I will need to pop the Thermal Grizzly Heatspreader and check the liquid metal application. I needed to install some nylon washers on the backplate anyhow to help with the ~2mm z-height differential anyhow for more AIO options as the eK cr240 Nucleus was the only model that allows a deeper hand torque to somewhat compensate but once offset temps will plummet even moreso. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Still fighting the urge to install my 270k in my main rig and eat my own chow till Nova or Zen 6 since even on this Dark Hero with a 9850X3D, it is still more of the same just a bit better..... 🤣 I know if installed as my main, it will get real time tuning and TLC....
  19. Selim1905
    He is again active on eBay
  20. Selim1905
    In my opinion, it offers excellent value for money. As I mentioned, the thermal pads are basic; I estimate that with a high-quality thermal pad and the fan at maximum speed, temperatures would stay around 65–72°C.
  21. Yesterday
  22. janepa
    Hotspot temp. sensors on a GPU chip.
  23. janepa
    Hi The very best thing you can do in this case is to close the loop by soldering on shorter heat pipes. As a next step, you could ask someone with a 3D printer to make a simple tube bender, or even buy one and use 5mm heat pipes to bend them as needed and flatten them to the required thickness at the contact (soldering) points. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283251571555 There’s also the option to adjust the fan blades themselves their number and size. The basic idea however is very good. Great work.
  24. MODDER1
    And yes, i was thinkin like adapting a system for each of the cards, i also saw a pub from GuitarG earlier, who wanted a solution just like that. Then i also had an observation that the exhaust air was hot, but not hot enough (like it's not really pulling away much heat), so i might investigate on this also.
  25. MODDER1
    There are also some cables running there, the upper zone is the best i think for fan intake. So PWM from fan 1, 5V et GND from DVD port pins, and yes it requires a brutal haircut ahah, but pretty simple using hot air station. This is the way, i haven't done it yet from my side, but running the laptop without the keyboard for now. Yes, it's an alienware vBIOS i think, not sure though, but running smoothly till now. By hands, pretty simple, but you have to be gentle tho. Why, don't, that why i'm there for😉, Thanks!
  26. Maro97
    75°C. Unfortunately, there is still no heatsink comparable to the vapor chamber. In my system, the temperature doesn’t exceed 63°C without liquid metal . I’m only using Thermal Grizzly Duronaut, not the newer Duronaut Pro.
  27. Maro97
    There isn’t a big difference in performance between the 9900K and 9900KS. Even running at 5.0 GHz, 5.1 GHz, 5.2 GHz, or 5.3 GHz on all cores, the performance difference isn’t significant. At most, you’re looking at around 5–10 FPS on average, and that’s only if you can keep the temperatures under control with air cooling. With a closed-loop liquid cooler (AIO), the thermal situation may improve, allowing you to push the CPU further. However, you still won’t gain more than around 12–14 FPS at most.
  28. tps3443
    So far I have been strictly playing with 1:1 memory tuning. 6400c28 is completely solid even with 2,200 fclk. I think I may even can stabilize 6600 1:1. But it starts to show IMC limits at 6600 (1:1) I just tried 1:2 today for the first time, DDR5 8000 1:2 posted up first try. Even with only 1.400v VDDIO. There was definitely something seriously wrong with my last setup to not work. PS: These are my setting below. I can't seem to get my latency down much. I am wondering if its OS related at this point. I even tried some manual Nitro Path settings. I am on a really old bios 1401 from 05/2025.
  29. Mr. Fox
  30. Selim1905
    These are the test results. The maximum values recorded here were obtained with the fans running in automatic mode; with the fans set manually to maximum speed, the temperature did not exceed 72°C. The thermal pads I used aren't top-tier; I used mid-quality pads I had on hand for testing purposes. Temperatures could be improved further with better thermal pads and the necessary software fine-tuning. In my opinion, the cooler performs very well.
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