tps3443

I have seen some beautiful Mora3 setups before, so nice in fact it really makes me want to set aside the funds and do it all for nothing more than nice looks. But they are expensive. They sell aluminum and copper variants too with lots of accessories. I run a Pora3. The Pora3 is the “Poor man’s Mora” 😎. It’s a solid copper 1,080x45mm thick radiator. Holds (18) 120mm fans. And it’s only $122 dollars. I actually have two of them. But one is plenty overkill. Okay, I’m kidding. It’s not really called a “Pora” it’s really a Alphacool Nexxxos 1080, and they sell enclosures with feet as well. It’s pretty cool. After hooking it up, I never looked back. Real God like cooling.

Nice to see free gains with the RTX3090 with the new driver. Assassins Creed Valhalla has boosted up nicely a few other titles as well. I’ll take anything. So while a GPU fps boost helps, I’m still CPU limited in certain titles. RDR2 especially running around Valentine with lots of people around, other games too. I’m ready for a 13900K and that nice double in multithreaded performance.

I assumed you’d grab a RTX4090, then the RTX3090 KP HC would move in to your work Computer. But after hearing that the RTX4090 doesn’t support Windows 7, then I guess that’s a no go for you.

One single HW Labs 360 GTX or 360 GTR will get the job done EASY. Most people who are using massive radiators are chasing very low coolant numbers. You probably don’t need all that. (1) single really good 360mm radiator can go along ways! If I were to run one radiator it would be a HW Labs 360 GTX or 360 GTR. The HW Labs GTX models work great with lower fan RPM’s and fan speeds up to 1,800RPM. The GTR is a new model that scales a little better with really high fan RPM’s. So starting at 1,800-3,000+ RPM. But we’re talking about a lot of noise. So the GTX is a little more flexible. The HWLabs GTX is easily the best radiator in the world “If using a case”, and nothing can beat it. Even just a 280GTX and a single D5 pump will cool a 4090 and a 12900K.

The black tube goes directly to a ekwb D5 pump in the bottom of my test bench.

Not at all. All of those items are name brand within the watercooling community. Magicool/Bykski/Swiftech. Also, using distilled water is your friend it’s not conductive. It does slowly become conductive over time, so swapping water periodically can ease your worries. AIO’s can leak just like anything else. I have never had a real water leak, I have never leak tested components, I don’t even use the PSU jumper to run pumps only. Never had a leak. Honestly, if you just pay attention to what your doing you’ll be fine.

Red on copper looks really cool!!

People would be better off building a custom loop with the price of a good AIO. It’s one of the few PC components we get to re-use over and over. These are (3) main parts radiator, pump, waterblock. All for the cost of only $161 dollars. Tubing is $1 dollar per 1ft, and fittings are like $5 each. Someone could probably build it even cheaper than that.

Same here. You can almost guarantee a waterblock for all the Strix models. And it looks greats too. Personally, I would just run it on air cooling for a while my self. Then I’d get bored and want to blast it with daily water chilling.

3 days before Intel 13900K testing. I imagine that 5.8Ghz beast couldn’t come any sooner for people rocking RTX4090’s waiting with Z690 motherboards , with any resolution for that matter. Hard to believe we are finally cpu bottlenecked with 4K. I remember almost 10 years ago when the GTX Titan was barely managing 23 fps average across titles in 4K. The resolution was trying so hard to become a mainstream thing, but it wasn’t physically possible with even the fastest GPU in the world.

Playing around with dyes. What have I done? I told my self I’d never do this again.

Another nice RTX4090 for sure. Honestly, I made it past launch. I was so close to getting a 4090 too by the time I rounded up some funds, they were sold out online, and no local stores are even near me. Micro Center is an almost 4.5 hour drive from me. The initial “Gotta have NOW” has come and gone for me. Now I feel content with my 3090 Kingpin HC again, because it is actually still crazy fast. Honestly, at this point I feel like it’s worth waiting for all of the 4090 AIB’s to settle in place and maybe even for the 4090Ti to release, it’ll be another 15-20% maybe. It looks like Nvidia saved some meat on the bone for a possible decent Ti model this go around. I personally like the Strix 4090. It has grown on me so much. Originally I hated it lol.

I thought the same thing. I saw that the scalpers are hardly making any money. They are probably making about $150-$300 on each card after that 13% in PayPal and eBay fees together. I wouldn’t even bother my self. Your driving a fairly heavy resolution, so long as your GPU does fine with it. You’ll probably be okay. What wattage bios do you run anyways? I noticed some of the less demanding games can pull the most power when we turn up all of the eye candy. I played a game with my son “Sea of Thieves” we turned up the resolution slider to 250% my 3090KP was churning right through it, and it looked so nice compared to Xbox. Then I checked and my 3090 was sucking down 630 watts of juice peak power. If I would have been on the standard 520 bios performance would have been throttled back and I would lose as much as 10+ fps. I have come across several games like this. You have that ultra wide 49” monitor right? I have drawn up a few ways I am going to run the watercooled M.2, so this will be really neat and simplistic. I’ll show you want I mean when I’m done. Also, isn’t it annoying how hot the motherboard is below the GPU? It’s like a constant 50C+. It’s kinda frustrating it’s hotter than my GPU and CPU, it’s just always under a load or strain. Especially with a EVGA Dark motherboard, but I imagine other boards are the same way. I’m going to be eliminating that heat soak issue for good lol. Last but not least if it is just the worst thing ever, I can remove it and run it under the motherboards heat sink.

Well, it’s also easy. Another item that’s worth water cooling is system ram. But it’s too expensive to do it right.

These super fast Gen4 drives can get hot. I figure why not just grab a water cooled one for a little extra. It will run super cool and generate far less heat in my system as a whole, the water is already flowing. Plus it’s really a cheap added cost. And I already have the custom loop, and it won’t take away much from flow rate if any. Sorry I’m stubborn lol. I got one, and I’m excited to give it a go. 😁

The top two M.2 SSD’s are both identical models, only the first one is watercooled, and the 2nd one is air cooled. The last SSD is a different older slower model is all. Why he is even comparing it, I have no idea lol. I just thought it was interesting how he managed to throttle that 2nd M.2 with that massive heat sink it has. Water cooling an M.2 is effective and plausible for sure. But the main thing is the cost difference is minimal if any at all. It shows the air cooled M.2 with a heat sink drop it’s write performance by half after it heats up.

The standard version with the heat sink throttles. So, I would assume the motherboard heat sink would probably throttle it as well. As for cost, it is priced equivalent to other performance 2TB Gen4 SSD’s without a waterblock. Seems like a not so bad value.

Hey everyone, I need to buy a new M.2 for my Z690 Unify-X/ 13900K build. I have decided to not re-use the Raided M.2’s that are in my Z590 Dark motherboard. Gonna leave those M.2’s alone, so I can use the system with the already installed OS. So, I am looking for a brand new M.2, something Gen4 for sure, and at least 2TB, I have come across a really decent M.2 that looks to be a great deal considering. Anyone use one of these Corsair watercooled M.2’s? It’s 2TB, gen4, water cooled, and super fast. I didn’t realize watercooling an M.2 was beneficial until I discovered they air cooled high performance Gen4 M.2’s can actually thermal throttle very easily. I figured it’s not bad for $260 bucks. Also, it doesn’t use a fin array, so no water loop flow restriction at all. I read a review or two, and the air cooled variants can run like 75C+ nearing the 80C throttle limit. And this one always runs sub 30c temps. It’s not like it’s any more expensive, and it’s actually beneficial. Any thoughts?

I heard someone say that Nvidia is boosting RTX Ampere performance by as high as 24% in games with further improvements and DX12 optimizations. I mean dang, are they sand bagging us this entire time? The 4090 is so freaking fast as it is, and with so many RTX 3000 series GPU’s for sale, they are literally enticing people to really buy them now.

Under any kind of gaming load it seems. That noise is louder than my water chiller too. Around 500+ watts of power draw it begins to screams. It stays the same pitch the whole time coming from the Power supply. Total system power is probably much higher. (2) Pumps, (10) 120mm 2K RPM fans, motherboard, GPU, CPU, (2) M.2’s, 2TB SSD, I am gonna say 850 watts maybe more. I will plug in my wall meter to check.

My EVGA 1300 P+ power supply is now screaming with coil whine so bad it sounds like an outdoor commercial bug zapper or something. My last PSU was an EVGA 1300G+, that one popped and smoked after just a few weeks of owning it. I’m really losing faith in EVGA power supplies. This coil whine is louder than my water chiller.

Hey I saw some cheap waterblocks for the Zotac RTX4090’s. Are you going to put a waterblock on there? Or are you planning to run another 4090? Is that art eraser around the CPU for the water chiller?

Your o-ring could have twisted up on you. I know when I first laid my O-ring down, it looked it wanted to pop up in areas when I pressed down on one area of it anywhere. So I just slowly and lightly pressed all the way around it, until it looked like it kind of wanted to stay there. I know my temps are amazing so far. I’ve got my water temp locked to 60F. GPU is running 29C, and the memory t-junction is only 48C. GPU2 temp is 32C. This is while using the 1KW XOC bios. RDR2 heavy load for about 1 hour now at 500 watts. GPU hot spot says 41C. MEM 1/2/3 are all between 25-30C. I had new thermal pads for the GPU, except for the rear PCB full cover Fujipoly pad. I re-used that one again I used alcohol and a tooth brush to clean the rear PCB. I was out of thermal paste, and I had to use a tiny amount of KPX, and Kryonaut Extreme. So, I mixed them together and it turned in to some kind of purple thermal paste lol. It works really well on the die too.

I didn’t have any issues. I was afraid I was going to though, I remember @Mr. Foxmentioned to me the trouble he had. I cleaned everything up, and laid the large clear o-ring on the plexiglass, then slowly went around it with a plastic spoon pressing it in to the groove on the plexi, after it was perfect, I laid the copper block down on the o-ring. You can’t exactly see the o-ring, so you’ve gotta go by the holes to line up the copper to the plexi and slowly lower it down. Then I slowly tightened down all of the hex screws and Philips screws that hold the plexi to the copper block. After that I torqued it all down going from outside in, then to inside out. Then I heated up the block with a heat gun just a little, and checked the torque again only going finger snug on these. But triple checking a few times over again. Then I did the terminal. Two small black oval O-rings. I installed the smaller hexes first, slowly lined up the terminal and then tightened the larger hexes. I plugged all of the holes with G1/4 plug fitting putting a finger on one and suction tested the block through another and held it there for about 30 seconds. It was good to go. Filled my loop, and powered it on. Not a single leak.

No leaks from the 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper. I cleaned it up really well. It’s a little tedious reassembling and getting the seal right. And the final test for leaks is essentially firing up your PC. But, I trusted it and it was good. I used a heat gun to heat up the glue under the EVGA plastic branding so I could get to the hex screws for the terminal. It was pretty straight forward.