tps3443

Still rocking that 3090 Kingpin Hydro copper man. It has been great!

CENN still wants my CPU. He just messaged again, and said c’mon man $1,050 and I’ll pay any express shipping fees on top. I mean, I’d be pocketing $424 and getting to test another new unknown 13900KF. I found another new one for a decent price.

We had a Tiger direct here in NC but they closed down around 2009-2010 I believe. They were great too. I remember going there when I was 15 years old and my mom bought me a NZXT Nemesis Elite ATX case for my birthday lol. They didn’t have any in stock so they sold me the display model for $10 dollars less. But I would run up there all the time to buy parts up until I was about 20 and they closed the doors. I remember they were always packed when I went inside, and I am not really sure why they even closed to this day. Maybe a Microcenter will come to NC one day.

I don’t think it’s from moisture. One thing that’s strange is, that Ethernet cable that caused this is not one I normally use ever. It has a metal plug housing around it. And that metal was burning against some metal on the inside of the Ethernet port. Not the wires themselves. This metal tab on the right side of the Ethernet port was burning against the metal on the side of the Ethernet cable. Anyways, the motherboard held up under the heat and stress! Nothing broken. That port works just fine.

I’m telling you. I have never seen anything like this in my life! It’s really the craziest thing ever. I don’t have any dogs, and I don’t believe the cable is damaged but it is 100ft long, or maybe 75ft I can’t remember for sure how long. It looks like the electricity or burn was coming from some metal around the inner portion of the Ethernet port, and not from those small wires.

I don’t know what it was. I’m merely explaining what happen. Not sure how it happen or why it happen, but it definitely happen to me, not sure what caused it. My wife was actually the one who physically plugged it in to my computer. We both smelled the burning.

Here is the cable, and the burn mark inside the Ethernet port. It was only running from computer to computer. I don’t know how it’s possible, or how it even happen. I just know the cable was heating up like crazy. And so was my motherboard I/O area. It melted the cable, and burned my Ethernet port. It shut off my PC and tripped the breakers of my office and even my kitchen. I had to pull the cable out with pliers, it was literally seized inside the 2.5gbit port.

Did I read that right? Your 12900K has SP104 E cores?

I plugged a long Ethernet cable in to my computer from my wife’s work computer. So I could provide internet access to her system. Well, right after I plugged this Ethernet cable in it began liquifying the rubber housing on the Ethernet cable, I couldn’t unplug it because it was now stuck inside of the Ethernet port. My Unity-X started getting really really really hot in the I/O area. Then in the moment of panic and imagining cooking 13900K’s my PC completely shutdown on me, then I realized my chiller LCD was shut off too. I lost power to half the house as well. I flipped the breakers off and back on, and fortunately my PC survived this ordeal with no loss in function. Even that Ethernet port still works with some heavy burn marks on the side of the inner port. The Ethernet cable has metal around the plastic housing, so it looks like it touched metal to metal and grounded something I’m not sure. Anyone know WTH may have happen here though?

So all CPU’s have a voltage variation idle or load depending on the cpu. With that EVGA voltage guard band enabled it will apply the idle and load voltages that the cpu calls for based on how good its silicon is or bad it is. If the voltage guard band is disabled it will apply the bare minimum voltage that a 13900K needs to run. So with it disabled it will apply a lower voltage at idle, and under load. It’s a really nice feature on EVGA motherboards.

I know right. I highly doubt I’d end up with something like that though.

What does everyone run their E-Cores at daily on your 13900K? PS: I fell in to the pit again..I ordered the RockitCool 13th Gen delid kit & Copper IHS 😁

That’s awesome they changed it. Hey, is the Kryos block a direct die application? I just bought the delid kit, and copper IHS for 13th Gen Intel from Rockitcool. I couldn’t resist!!!! 😭😭😭

@Mr. Fox (2) people so far on Overclock.net who say the Rocket cool copper IHS with the bending frame work together just fine. And apparently it does fit Also, have you tried remounting that 13900K IHS again with LM. Your results just seem really really low. I keep hearing 11C reduction. And you are saying the same or worse temps. Just kind of surprising that it did not help is all. Have you double checked your application and mount?

The cpu or GPU.

Do you run your chiller daily? That’s how I do it anyways.

Hey lower is better with MSI. So I’ll take it. What happen with your Unify X? You going to keep using it after the repair?

Your kidding.. The Rocket cool IHS doesn’t fit the thermalright frame? I had no idea. Glad I didn’t buy it then. Update: Force rating has dropped to 129. I guess the CPU is nice and burned in now.

I have never seen the problem. It’s only Optimus blocks. You’ve gotta understand that the Optimus cold plate design is a micro fin design. It’s so fine that it creates an artifact in pictures. You can’t even photograph it properly. You can barely fit a piece of paper through the fins. They clog up overtime and heavily restrict water flow. Most waterblocks are not designed like this. I don’t think an AIO would ever have this problem. I have never had a waterblock clog like this before. Even a brand new one is extremely restrictive. The most restrictive waterblock made probably. Clean distilled water flowing through this overtime, and it will filter it to death and some. If you want a clean loop. Run your distilled water with a Optimus block then replace the cold plate in 6 months. You won’t have more pure water than that! LOLZ

Maybe grab the Rockitcool copper IHS. I think they are like $30 dollars. I feel the same way though. I want to use LM on the IHS because I know it’ll drop temps off by about 5-8c but I hate to ruin my CPU. One more thing, have you checked your Optimus cold plate lately? They clog up really bad. Like really really bad. When I first installed my 13900KF I could barely cool it without the waterchiller running all the time. At 5.8Ghz and 1.315V it would hit 98C package temps, and I noticed temp degradation with my 11900K pretty bad too. After replacing the cold plate My 13900KF temps fell and only runs about 86C package temps. Both of my Optimus blocks have clogged up using just distilled water. When I bought the Z490 Dark/10900K/Optimus combo from you that cold plate was clogged too, not fully clogged but pretty clogged. If you haven’t already, I would highly recommend checking it. My water flow has more than doubled since installing a brand new cold plate. And I have the old one cleaned and ready to go in 6 months when this one clogs too. Honestly, I love the Optimus block but I hate the clogging of the cold plates. I’m tempted to switch blocks, my 3090KP waterblock fins have not clogged up at all. I’d maybe see one little piece that was stuck through the clear plexi, but nothing that degraded performance. I don’t understand why distilled water and merely corrosion inhibitors can clog up a waterblock. But the Optimus cold plates are so fine you can’t even drag a needle through them without the needle getting stuck.

Yeah I’m probably not going to delid it. I’m fine with how it performs right now. It’s a great chip with good silicon and the factory tim is doing okay. I have delidded all of my CPU’s I’ve ever owned lol. I guess I could skip just one. 😂 @Mr. Fox did you use thermal paste or liquid metal? I’ve found that thermalpaste under the IHS will perform the same as a non-delidded CPU that is soldered sometimes even worse. I would also try LM between the IHS and water block cold plate. Definitely using the liquid metal sandwhich is the only way to go. When I tested direct die I could consistently get 10-11c lower temps by just switching from thermal paste to liquid metal. Honestly it seems like it would still provide a decent temp reduction. That’s crazy that it didn’t. Maybe give EKWB a shot when their direct die LGA1700 block eventually comes out, then you can remove the IHS all together. It’s supposed to be good.

I know it’s a total joke. Nvidia wants scalpers to live. Because they are coming back with a vengeance that’s for sure. AMD will fall in to the $1,500+ price point and also be unavailable. Still cheaper than a 4090 so at least there is that.

The 7900XTX is gonna really be awesome. I just wish these manufacturers could get enough of them out there in to everyone’s hands. Nvidia is literally milking supply of RTX4090 to artificially inflate the price. So right now the RTX4090 is roughly $2,000 bucks+ taxes it’s even more to buy one online. I’m gonna say about $2,300 after taxes and shipping. Now with the 7900XTX costing $999, it’s only gonna end up being $1,500+ taxes on eBay maybe more due to no inventory and scalpers. GPU manufacturers lived on a high of 2 years selling GPU’s at any price they wanted. Nvidia only learned how to control the market better. The 7900XTX will only fill the niche of what the RTX4090 actually cost on paper. AMD is not good with GPU inventory lol. In the end we will have the $2,000 dollar 4090. Or the $1,500 dollar 7900XTX lol. Take your pick!

Hey, @johnksss how much voltage do you send to these on your MSI Unify-X to use your DDR5 7600 XMP profile daily? Thanks. CPU VDDQ, and CPU VDD2 download instagram high resolution photos

It’s fun tuning out CPU’s for efficiency. I always had more fun doing that, then even overclocking them to the moon. Both are fun though. My setup= 230 watts@41K R23 Intel defaults Small Air cooler 252 watts@35K R23 Intel defaults Larger tower air cooler 288 watts@38K R23 intel defaults Customer cooling= unlimited power@41K R23