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Daedalus

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  1. Daedalus
    if i recall (i think it was GuitarG) put the P5200 in his 8570/8770 unit, i think theres a YT vid on it, But is amazing the p5200 runs in an older unit as it does alot of the heavy lifting for games usage. Again not sure if the newer G5/G6 need a DC screen for them to work.
  2. Daedalus
    Thats good to hear your test proved a pass, so it seems to align the card is good. Definitely review your cooling solution as this may have been a bit tooo close a call to failure. Happy to measure my 8770W "half plate" GPU sink if you need heights verified. That will work for a 980M but not anything newer, if i recall @KbX has a 1070M in his (but suffers display output options) not sure if hes evolved his heatsink since. Can anyone advise if the 1080M has been tried, not sure why we stopped at 1070m as i saw one which didnt have the PSU plug so it must be downclocked to run via MXM slot.
  3. Daedalus
    If it’s a dry joint/heat related short the longer test will show it up. maybe a heat gun operation if chips are good.
  4. Daedalus
    this is why i now have a junker dual core 8570W (only difference is no RAM slot 1&3 under keyboard from what i can see) in a half chassis for my heatsink work, all i need are CPU and GPU bolt points to align. i can prep all i need without killing anything (fingers crossed) plus i can mod the chassis for cooling and swap items across as proven. no spare 980m though (eek)
  5. Daedalus
    Noooo, thats not good news. was yours a 980M?? Were all "hot" chips cooled ok? the copper plate is flat (obviously) whereas the aluminium 8770W one has recesses to cater for different heights. (i'm looking at full copper but got to wait until my slide table turns up so i can convert my drillpress into a milling machine arrives, so its the 8770W sink until then) i assume the GPU core wasnt contacting the sink as if i recall VRAM is a tiny bit higher off the PCB (i could be wrong, i used the thicker blue heat pads which squish a bit more, although i may change to upsiren paste next) this is the issue i found when creating an "undercooler plate" for the 980M VRAM on the other (under)side of the PCB that sit next to Mobo and dont get cooled enough. was your card a "low mileage" one? might have been slowly dying and the mod pushed it over the edge. However we learn and upgrade. Will share the underplate on here shortly once i get a chance to take a pic this weekend (if it works i'll convert into a printable template).
  6. Daedalus
    Hi all, just found the below for our cable build saga. Someone on the thinkpad forums hit similar issue for lvds 1. ⁠eDP -> LVDS adapter:https://e.tb.cn/h.8kNp2CawbSlReTo?tk=FLq9TdpACbP 2. ⁠eDP 40pin ->30pin: https://e.tb.cn/h.8lZV7mu4BxoANYC?tk=AYKSTdKbVim and https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG5DDMQ upd. 3. wacom-emr-digitizer to usb adapter project: https://github.com/bulat-chu/WACOM-ThinkPad-X60T-Digitizer In my head (yeah i know its crazy) it maybe easier to repin the intermediate boards above than mess with a tiny co-axial cables which will melt and short. again it’s TaoBao but might be useful Can someone on here confirm that an 8770W DC cable would work for our 8570W challenge? i may have a source for one. (however the pic shows just the cable so im thinking im missing the interposer board. unless its hidden under the tape / material covers
  7. Daedalus
    as we are sourcing only PWM from CPU header (splitting only fan feed on mobo), we see both fans at equal speed, as the tacho pin isnt presented at 2nd fan (3-pin) (mainly due to the fact it confuses the mobo header) so its only CPU (4-pin) fan that would speed up and slow down. I know in GPU-Z it doesnt detect fan speed of either current and the "additional".
  8. Daedalus
    if memory recalls i dont think linking the pipes back to GPU copper plate would be efficient, i get the logic of hot running to cold point (fan) though. I always understood heatpipes work best with a temp gradient from one end to other. looping would increase copper mass, you might benefit from two pipes ending up at exhaust grille. just my 2c. Is that a 3d printed fan? i ask as i had sooooo many Ali fans working out which would fit in DVD bay then the headache of supplying different brand fans with HP happy power.
  9. Daedalus
    Nice work, Not bad. Thats kinda how i was envisaging my dual fan setup to look like. My version was keeping the fan to GPU pipe but also having the inverse like you have for the GPU to second fan. assume all LMP solder joints there. why no primary fan to GPU plate heatpipe? GPU maybe overloading 2nd fans ability to exhaust heat one question, why not have the 2nd fan nearer the SSD bay? (assume due to heatpipes not working in flipped over layout. Also where is your second fan run from, i see the PWM feed from main fain header, but are you using +5v and gnd from DVD? (as 980M install requires a brutal haircut of the DVD port) i planned on taking feed from USB sub-board (that black plastic covered board bottom right) on the underside how is fan intake working? i have a round hole in my DVD bay floor and a grille in my access panel now 🙂 Regards video output is that via internal display on 980M? which Vbios. How did you bend your heatpipes? Apologies for the critique. love the progress youve made.
  10. Daedalus started following GuitarG
  11. Daedalus
    if this is anything like the elitebook 8570W misadventure i had when trying to make a GTX 965M work, you have to choose the correct VBios otherwise the machine wont POST. It will fire up but no display output to screen. what Vbios does your Fermi have on it. You might be seeing a misalignment of DP_A, B C etc not being assigned to the display. Try the TechPowerup forum for other versions of Vbios. I know on my machine it only ever came with 3 card options from factory, despite what HP techs said no Whitelist "apparently" existed. Ive seen INF mods needed for some cards too
  12. Daedalus
    am i assuming from the diagram above no interposer board is needed? just looking at sources for the cables at present. LVDS elitebook ones seem viable on ebay. is there any IPS displays preferred that fit the 8570W lid best (just to focus searches) Also has anyone got the interposer dreamcolor board cable assembly part number too? @GuitarG i salute your devotion to the cause and effort so far, a shame the 8570W is retired from your flock. Enjoy the next challenge 😉
  13. Daedalus
    not to be difficult, UK users cant see IMGUR pictures, so all i see is a blue block. Awesome progress though. Shame the 8570W journey ends. Did anyone uncover the HP LVDS cable pinout diagram? i seem to recall its in an older post (i'll go hunt for it. Happy to try recreate the cable, just need to get a bundle of LDVS to sacrifice 😄
  14. Daedalus
    as they are two slots it will be the thin copper sinks, removal of the stickers to maximise contact, underneath set will fair better as they are side by side and have a vent on access door. under keyboard may suffer higher temps.
  15. Daedalus
    Yeah I think the sandwich creation is sensible. Although had a (stupid idea) top of 980m cooled by main 8770w sink, and under side cooled by second fan and heat pipe, but they are held together by spider, so allows cooling assembly as two part. there are copper heatsinks for memory on Ali too I noticed so I may try them. Also plan to cool north bridge whilst I’m creating a monster i now have three 8570w sinks in various states of removed parts to work out what fits and can be used in different locations
  16. Daedalus started following Guide: Manual Secure Boot 2023/2024 Certificate Update for Legacy Systems Like HP EliteBook 8570W (Pure PowerShell)
  17. FrancoTecno started following Daedalus
  18. Daedalus
    Hey, Still working on the Access panel vent so the 2nd fan can pull air, but at present its a Type H (fits 470 thru to 590) copper plate (0.5mm thick) from Ali i'm modifying to sit under the card with Upsiren putty to try and clamp via spider (you'll need longer spider too for this) so heat is shared back into the main heatsink. It aint perfect as bolt holes need widening, but its better than hoping the PCB will dissipate heat. will need to Kapton tape the underside to minimise short risk too. But thats the idea im running with at the moment unless anyone has managed a better fix. will find the link and re-edit post shortly https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ewz3iIS is the part I’m modifying as an off the shelf solution (ish) its an evolution of the copper plate that KBX did on his 980M install but trying to keep as an sandwich assembly (hopefully it wont foul the DVD port too, although i suspect it will, so DVD port will require a trim )
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