Mr. Fox

That can happen with ASUS SP ratings sometimes as well. It's only a tool. While it is useful for some things, it is not a 100% reliable indicator of results. I wouldn't worry about that number changing too much. At the end of the day, results are what matter. Not a rating assigned based on a programmed algorithm... GIGO.

Does not work with the contact frame and I don't want to use the stock ILM. Copper is also inferior to nickel surfaces when using liquid metal. Yes, it's clean. I no longer use the Signature blocks because of the solid metal unibody housing. I prefer the clear plexi top on the Foundation so I can visually monitor the cleanliness of the cold plate.

I always use liquid metal under the IHS where the solder used to be. The only exception was with the Ryzen 5950X nightmare, which ran hotter after a delid because the chiplets were inconsistent height and there was no longer any solder plugging all the gaps and liquid metal doesn't work for that. Using thermal paste made the temps the same as stock solder (before delid). Using liquid metal on top will absolutely yield better results than thermal paste, but I don't want to destroy the markings on the stock IHS. Maybe I will buy a broken 13th Gen CPU on eBay (something very low end like i5) and use the IHS. I could lap it and use liquid metal and keep the stock IHS looking new. When I had to lap one of the 12900K IHS due to the damage caused by the delid process that made a huge difference. But, the IHS was already destroyed so I had nothing to lose.

FYI - stop the nonsense YouTube ads with this awesome Chrome extension... SponsorBlock. It is my Windows substitute for Vanced MicroG on Android. Never wait for a video to play or be interrupted during the video again by advertisements.

Had I known it, then of course I would not have wasted my time on a worthless exercise that yielded no benefit. Based on the temps he is seeing, I would also suggest that @tps3443not waste any time on it or risk damaging his CPU. I do not think he would see any benefit, just as I did not. The 13900K does not have the super tiny SMD components on the PCB at opposite corners of the die like 12900K/KS does. There is nothing under the IHS except for the die. Like 12th Gen, it is very difficult to get the stock rubber gasket off of the PCB. More than any other prior generation CPUs, the black rubber sealant sticks extremely well and it is very time consuming and tedious, especially near the resistors and capacitors mounted near the IHS. I used plastic razor blades and even using them it was hard to get the PCB cleaned off. Here is the damage to the left wing on the IHS. You can see that it was deformed by pressing against it. I had to sand it down to take the burr off of the edge. I also sanded the underside of the IHS to remove the black rubber seal and to make sure it was perfectly flat after the damage to the left wing on the IHS.

I also have probably better than average P-cores and not so great E-core, probably average E-core quality. Yeah, seems like I must have had a good factory solder job. I've not seen this happen before with an Intel CPU. I always have seen a benefit from delidding until now. The temperatures per core saw essentially no change. I was like "Wait, what? The same?" If I did not mark the before and after screenshot you would not be able to tell which temperatures were delid or stock solder except by looking at the clock in the system tray. It was also more difficult to delid than 12900K/KS. The IHS was trying to rotate counter clockwise instead of pushing straight sideways, and the solder was less brittle than normal. It seemed more like lead and it was a bit stretchy.

100%. Looking really amazing, bro. How are you keeping the CPU that cool? Is the radiator outside in freezing weather? I delidded my 13900K this evening and the temperatures before and after essentially did not change at all. They are within 1°C of the same. I regret having wasted my time doing it now. (And, yes... @tps3443 it did bugger up the IHS a bit, as it did with 12th Gen every time. I was able to fix it with sanding the burr off the wing.) You know where I stand with AMD. I am glad that NVIDIA and Intel have more competition than before. Based on the fact that I haven't had a positive experience with anything from their brand in more than a decade, I am really not open to the idea of taking another chance. I still haven't recovered pschologically or monetarily from my lapse of judgment with 5950X abortion. I am not interested in purchasing a product that runs too hot and doesn't respond favorably to overclocking efforts even when you keep it cool. Based on what I want and expect to receive in exchange for my money, I can see no point in owning such a product.

I know, right. Buying something you don't want just because it is new, almost what you want, and some people love it, is a great way to end up disappointed... and broke. Always better to wait for what you want, or if you're going to buy something you don't want due to the certainty that availability will continue to be poor or the price is expected to remain unreasonable then make it something adequate, but do it as cheap as possible. Your expectations are already in the gutter. If it turns out to be crap, it is exactly what you expected and your surprised look isn't on your face. You have validated it to be crap. But, it was cheap crap... not the end of the world. However, if it turns out better than what you expected then you have something to be thankful for and happy about.

This really clarified a lot. It's hard to make sense of the media nonsense with all of the talking heads and emo crybabies on the internet. They're mostly a bunch of stupid goofballs that enjoy running their mouths more than using their brains. The quest for low power draw is very anti-enthusiast. While the specs might sound high for an uneducated consumer or gamerkid, the 4090 doesn't have a higher TGP or pull more watts than our Kingpin GPUs and shunt-modded cards have for several years. I view the high power draw, high TGP for a GPU and high TDP for a CPU as being very positive, not negative. You just aren't going to get more horsepower without it. You can gain efficiency and do more with less, but you won't accomplish as much as you will be doing more with more. Drawing less power almost always means less performance than you would find by using more power. I always have been, and always will be, an advocate by doing more with more. Doing more with less only applies to gaining efficiency from where you used to be compared to where you are now. I'd much rather go the route of using as much or more power than ever before and taking the performance higher than possible if you're doing more with less. Achieving similar performance using less power is progress, but it should also be a cue that you're not doing nearly as much as you could be by limiting yourself to the same amount of power as before instead of pouring on more power than you ever have in the past and just pushing the performance even higher along with it. The "efficiency" should be used to facilitate that rather than using less power than before.

FYI - in case it helps someone else avoid the frustration... user error on my part... sort of. To avoid issues, recycle the same password for both accounts. Being smart and using a distinct password for each account doesn't work. Chrome thinks they are the same.

If it comes out of Azor's mouth then it should be considered a lie until proven otherwise. AMD hiring a worthless snake like that clown makes them a less trustworthy company and harms their brand credibility on face value. Not mine... I've got no use for compromised garbage like that. Gateway to turdbook city in a non-portable form factor. No thank you... hard pass.

That would not have required a mod firmware if there were still such a thing as a Kingpin GPU. 1000W power limit and unlocked voltage would have been taken for granted with the standard XOC vBIOS. Sad days with us being left with nothing but gamerboy crap.

https://hwbot.org/submission/5113085_ | https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/15355153 https://hwbot.org/submission/5113080_ | https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/15355078

It is also good for people buying and selling last generation GPUs. I wanted an A770, but couldn't buy one if my life depended on it due to no availability. I settled on the 3060 because being cheap was more important than owning the best. If I were still gaming and gaming important to me, the 3060 Ti FTW3 on water would be all I would need... for less than $400. Spending 400-500% more for another 10-15 FPS when everything is already 60+ is beyond foolish, especially when bread, eggs and milk require the donation of a kidney or the soul of your first-born. 2080 Ti FTW3 is on its way to Gig Harbor for repair. Nice guy. @electrosoftMr. Dufus has yet to reply and probably won't. This guy is such a pompous prick. He sometimes does produce very useful YouTube content, but his attitude really sucks. I bet he doesn't have many friends in real life. He loves himself way too much to have any left for others. https://framechasers.org/faq/ I was planning to ping him directly to ask, but he wants $500 to answer a question. His life must be extremely challenging, and probably of his own doing. I bet he thinks his own poop doesn't stink, LOL.

https://hwbot.org/submission/5113130_ | https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/82394562

Any idea what delid tool he is using? I have not seen it before. I asked in the video comments. Hopefully he will answer.

I am going to send my 2080 Ti FTW3 to this guy for repair. This video shows him fixing a 2080 FE with the same exact problem and the same exactly memory IC location (B0). My GPU has Samsung (not the crummy Micron IC shown in the video).

We spent the day just hanging out together and enjoying one another's company. We went out to eat at a nice restaurant, which is something we seldom do because of the high cost and less than ideal caloric implications. Awesome honeymoon getaway in Mexico. Congratulations on making your commitment official! Have a wonderful time. I hope you enjoy a lifetime of love and friendship through the good times and hard times. It is as much, perhaps more, decision and covenant than it is a feeling. Feelings can fade, but real love and real commitments do not... otherwise, they are not real love and commitments... only feelings that were mistaken for the latter. The concept of having the display for system monitoring is wonderful. Using it as a USB device is ideal, because then it does not interfere with your configuration of graphics display output on a monitor that serves a limited purpose. Having an eDP port on the motherboard like a laptop is a gimmick that adds a proprietary element to the ability to use the feature when any other solution is totally non-proprietary. One of the many reasons laptops suck is proprietary garbage... why go down that retarded rabbit hole with a desktop if you don't have to? I shudder to think about what kind of configuration nightmare that getup is going to look like on the A$$Rock abortion, and how that display will be driven at a hardware level. Totally unnecessary complication and added point of potential failure. This looks most interesting to me because the TEC is cooled as part of a normal custom water loop. That has potential to work a lot more effectively and efficiently than a normal TEC that is not part of a custom water loop. With the water cooling added, probably will get and stay colder and be less prone to condensation because the temperature delta between components is smaller... in theory anyway. I have not seen a more clear example of this than the G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4 memory in my Strix Z690 D4. I ran it at 4500 stable on multiple Z490 and Z590 motherboards with 10900K/KF processors. But, it could not boot above 4000 reliably with 12900K. I assumed the Z690 D4 board was the problem. Wrong... way wrong. Runs like a top at 4600 with the 12900KS and 13900K. Everything works together. If one element doesn't play nice with another, it is going to present an impediment.

Interesting...

I ran into that a couple of times on the Unify-X and the solution was to press downward slightly on the end of the M.2 with the retainer while attempting to rotate it to unlock the clip. Something about the design of the retention mechanism seems to get misaligned and not allow the plastic retainer to rotate freely in the notch on the end of the M.2 PCB. It is kind of a chintzy design. I don't see any way that simply using a screw and doing it the old fashioned way isn't a superior approach. The "new and improved" latching mechanism is a perfect example of why adhering to the KISS principle is the best approach. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." It seems that there is never a shortage of stupid gimmicks.

Thank you. We had a good day. I took the day off from work to enjoy her company. Congratulations on the new CPU. Looks like a decent bin. A great wife is certainly priceless. Congrats on that, too. Condolences on the brutal and abusive taxation.

Funny you mention that. I discovered this today. I noticed while playing with the Luumi, Kingpin and CENS profiles they always set it lower or left it on "auto" and that worked better for me, too.

It's really difficult to view the performance of M-die as anything short of excellent. It doesn't take you quite as far as the A-die that costs a lot more, but where it does take you is pretty stinking sweet. @Recieverhow is the memory working now with the modules installed in the correct slots? All better?

@tps3443 look at this post and check the photo of the IHS. This is EXACTLY how my delid turned out on the 12900K. I mentioned that I had to lap it to fix the damage the delid caused to it. The 12900KS sustained similar damage to the "wing" that sticks out on the side. I was able to repair that by sanding the underside (CPU-facing surface) flat. I have not delidded the 13900K yet. It looks like his got a little bit of damage in both places (highlighted yellow). I warmed the CPU the first time. Waste of time doing that. According to Roman (der8auer) it is actually detrimental because the soft solder smears instead of shears. He recommends doing it to a cold CPU to cause the solder to shear more easily. I have done it cold since and it was easier. No need to push it back the opposite direction because it was already loose. It wasn't loose the first time because the solder smeared or stretched. (The heating may have also softened the IHS... not sure on that.) The lapped IHS works better, but it's ruined in terms of identification markings.

Thank you both. God blessed me with a great wife. More than I deserved. @Talon you're a quarter of the way there. 😄 It's surreal and it doesn't feel like it though.