Mr. Fox

Off topic, but tech-related: Nice to see them squirming... eff the EU... LOL. They should all be ignoring EU fines and sanctions and telling them to stuff it up their tailpipe and go to the hot place where bad dead people go.

The way things seem to be heading for us with absurd RAM and GPU prices, 1080p low settings might become the new mainstream because it would cost $10K to build a PC with respectable specs. The badasses will be rocking 8GB DDR5 6000 C38 (2x4GB) with Samsung or Micron ICs and a 5060 for $3500.

It looks as though some of those replying to your comments on the video are stupid Redditor trolls. Many of the YouTube "influencers" do not know much when it comes to overclocking, which is bad because most of the viewing audience know even less. Like the vision-impaired leading the blind. This is a steal if anyone is interested. https://www.overclock.net/posts/29538697/

Nice. That is a great price for the Apex.

Only if they are bare copper. It is very beneficial with bare copper. It is pointless and not necessary with nickel plating. I would recommend avoiding bare copper for anything, but especially liquid metal application. It's not harmful to copper, but the absorption is just an added hassle that you avoid with nickel. Even when you are not using liquid metal the bare copper starts looking pretty nasty with normal use and keeping it looking sharp is a real pain in the butt. It looks nice when it is new, but looks horrible when it begins to tarnish.

Sacrificing usability and features for a marginal improvement (and with AMD gains are always marginal) in overclocking equates to a poor buying decision. XOC means sub-zero. I do not do that and never intend to. I don't have the time, money or home office space needed for that. If I actually made money overclocking and/or had free products sent to me I might feel differently. When my money is involved and the only benefit is momentary satisfaction the rules start to change. A single chipset AMD board may as well be ITX or mATX because the added size of ATX/E-ATX offers nothing in terms of functionality when there is only one chipset available. I need my systems to offer some level of versatility or they are not worth owning. X870 (non-E, single chipset) may as well be B850 ITX/mATX in terms of functionality and overclocking capabilities using above zero cooling.

And, we thought the 5090 FE was an idiotic design, but this is far worse. What an absolute abortion. Should be interesting to see what kind of water cooling contraption will be developed for this goofball piece of crap. The Green Goblin has lost its mind. In stark contrast, this is quite the engineering marvel. I am not a fan of SFF but this is truly an elegant creation that oozes quality from every pore. Imaging how great a full E-ATX tower to support triple 420mm radiators built like this would be.

Yeah, I could see where that would be true.

https://github.com/zoicware/RemoveWindowsAI/tree/main

While it is sad in some ways, I think most elements of it is unavoidable and natural. A person born in one country that moves away to another country brings elements of their culture and language along. That is expected. If they get married to someone not from their old homeland and start a family, their spouse and their children have no connection to the homeland. Apart from sheer novelty, there is no basis for the spouse or children to learn the language or culture of their spouse, parents or grandparents because it is not relevant or useful to their lives. It was never their home and they do not see any reason for having a foreign micro-culture. The cities that have neighborhood pockets or bubbles of cultural focus often have very serious problems associated with them. Those that leave those cultural bubbles assimilate and become successful contributors to society, and they identify only as Americans, with no hyphenation to identify their hereditary origin. They excel based on merit, motivation and self-worth alone. The culturally isolated urban pockets are frequently centers of poverty and crime and the people that cluster with others of common descent are frequently some of the most unsuccessful people. They are trying to cling to familiarity rather than moving onward and upward. They need to let it go, stop and remember why they left in the first place. If it was good place they would have stayed. That happens domestically as well. It is not exclusive to the immigrant experience. For example, you have people that live in severely misguided and corrupt states (such as California and New York) fleeing the utter insanity and despicableness of those filthy places looking for a good life in another state. They must adapt their thoughts, behavior, social and political views and speech to fit in with the culture they migrated to or they will be reviled and remain a rejected misfit. Nobody in their new home state wants them to import their baggage and undesirable elements from their prior state. It is unwelcomed and undesirable to those that already live in the place they moved to. There are a variety of slogans such as "DON'T CALIFORNIA MY ARIZONA" because nobody wants the invaders to bring their garbage and ruins things the way they ruined the place they were escaping from. They must leave it behind.

Looks like you have it covered. The only thing I do not see are the Mayhem's additives I mentioned. You only need them if you are using distilled water. FWIW, I have a leak tester, but only purchased it recently. I historically leak tested my systems turned off and unplugged with the pumps running. Finding a leak is rare. I cannot remember the last time I had one except for the time I left a drain port unplugged by accident. It's nice to have but not essential. The leak tester will reveal a leak, but will not direct you to the source of the leak unless you can actually hear it. Pressurizing a system with coolant while not connected to power is how you find the leak. Where it is probably the most useful is checking waterblocks for leakage. Are you going to use one of the Core 100 D5 pumps for the Aurora 250mm pump/reservoir unit? (It does not include a pump is why I am asking.)

Weird. I claimed it and completed that but it does not show up in my Epic library. If I go back to the store it says "in library" on the page but doesn't show in the client. I had to refresh the library. Simply logging out and back in did not work. There is a button up at the top next to the word "Library" to refresh. Never noticed that before. Downloading it now.

Thank you for letting us know.

None of the 5090s are worth what people are paying for them at any tier level, and the halo models represent the poorest value of all. It seems insane to me that anyone is paying a lot extra to get almost nothing in return. They do not deliver benefits to scale with price and (as noted in your comments and the video) can even be an inferior product overall. I do not think any GPUs models other than the Intel options and 9070 XT offer anything that somewhat resembles value based on price. The best job is the one you have. At the end of the day, job you used to have is of no value whatsoever. The best that you can hope that it provides is qualification for something that produces a paycheck that makes you a more attractive candidate.

My situation is that the company I was working for has fallen on hard economic times due to lack of business and about 10 of us got booted to keep the lights on. I was the highest paid person (Chief Claims Officer) and was furloughed without pay in the hope that things would improve and I can return. My daughter was also one of the people eliminated and a couple of other higher-paid and very highly talented people. My position in the workforce is also a problem for me on my resume. Lots of "overqualified executive leader" opinions come into play even though I am willing to do the work of an individual contributor and applied for roles like that. I am trying to get back into a gaming mindset to pass the time and having a hard time with that because two of my favorite AAA titles (BF and CoD) have been permanently ruined for me because they now require me to enable stupid cancer $hit in the BIOS and I am not doing it. Screw 'em. There are not that many games that hold my interest anymore and I have played through all of the Crysis title at least a dozen times and got kind of burned out on them for over-familiarity. I really only like FPS with heavy graphics focused on not looking cartoonish and heavily ray-traced environments. I hate RPG, strategy, most indie titles and online multi-player games so my interests are pretty narrow.

They do look pretty awesome. All of them. I miss HEDT platforms. The most fun I ever had with overclocking was X299. CPU and memory overclocking was epic. I won't be doing anything with computer stuff until I find work though. Lots of applications out and a couple of opportunities that look very promising. A lot of email generated rejections without an adequate review of my qualifications, most likely based on my age (even though that is illegal). I may end up redoing my resume and dropping out the first 20 years of my career history to keep my age concealed from AI filtering and biased recruiters. Even when I do something in terms of the next upgrade, my preference would be to go back to Intel. My X870E builds are great, but AMD overclocking is pretty darned lackluster compared with Intel, and I really do not care for how AMD handles memory overclocking. So, I will wait and see what Intel drops before making any purchase decisions.

8000 MT/s compared to 8200 above. Absolutely not worth the extra effort.

The distro plates are nice if you are using a case. If you are not, then just skip it and do a couple of Core 100 unit that include the pump and save your money. Pumps can be horizontal or pump down (toward floor) but never pump toward the ceiling. They can be anywhere in the loop but work best on the radiator output side, or one (or more) on the cold output (high pressure side) and one on the retun side. Generally speaking, you do not want all of the pumps between the PC and radiator on the return (hotter and lower pressure) line. Stop and visualize the layout. Grab a paper and pen and sketch it out to plan how many fittings you will need. You will need at least two compression fittings for each joint: 2 per hose on each pump, 2 for each radiator, 2 for each filter. 2 for the CPU block. 2 for each GPU block. In terms of 90° or 45° fittings, that will depend on how your build is designed. You will probably want 2 90° fittings for the GPU block. You will likely want at least one for each pump. You will probably want a minimum of 4 of these. In a close case you would likely want more because of sharp turns. They are not necessary for anything other that having a tidy build or if you need to make a sharp turn without kinking the tubing. Air will collect in the highest point of the loop. The reservoir at the place with the most pressure in the loop will overflow with the plug removed. More often than not, this high pressure point will be where water first enters the computer, at either the GPU or CPU block. The lowest pressure will usually be on the return (hot) line leaving the PC and returning to the radiator. Watch when you fill the loop and see which one empties and which one fills up first, the disconnect power from the pump that overflows and leave the plug in until the loop is full. Once the loop is full, reconnect power to it. Set everything up on your table or desk before cutting the lines. Place the case/bench where you want it and the radiator where you want it. This can also help you plan how many fittings you need. Make sure it is satisfying and convenient how everything is placed. Only then should you start cutting the tubing. (This would apply to any setup you build.) You can use a razor blade or scissors, but a cheap tubing cutter works best to make quick, straight and clean cuts. It is better to overestimate the length by an inch or two than to make a line too short. You can trim things down but once you cut the line it can never be longer. The old cliché, "measure twice, cut once" applies here as well as carpentry. Building a custom loop for the first time is expensive, but the parts (other than tubing) will generally be very durable and last many years. You only need to buy most of these things once and use them more or less forever. Most of my D5 pumps have lasted me 5 to 10 years. (DDC pumps are not very durable in comparison.) NEVER power up the loop dry. Without water in the loops the pumps will burn up very fast. EPDM tubing will probably last forever as well. Black silicon tubing also works as well as EPDM rubber, but it is softer than rubber and will kink easier if there is a sharp turn. (They use it for brewery equipment.) As long as the dimension are correct and work with the fittings, you can also use automotive heater hose or fuel line tubing, or bulk PVC tubing (from Home Depot or Lowes) if aesthetics are irrelevant. Those generally have writing printed on them for identification purposes and don't look very nice and are usually very stiff, but functionally work the same. You will learn a lot and have fun. Even the thought of using air cooling has become repulsive to me at this point. The only regrets I have ever had in custom loop building are: Purchasing a DDC pump (D5 are much better) Purchasing black fittings (for reasons mentioned before) Failing to use at least one filter in the loop You have my cell. Feel free to call or text if you want any help figuring things out.

@Reciever - you need a way to distribute power the fans that is not too messy and is electrically sound. I recommend that you get one of these for your 9 radiator fans and you can control speed using the remote. I have several of these and they work fantastic (pun intended). You can use SATA power from the PSU mentioned above. I do not use motherboard fan headers or RGB headers. (Using motherboard RGB headers sucks because you need software garbage to control the lights and motherboard fan headers required farting around with software or BIOS settings. This device solves both of those really crappy problems.) Delta EH10 Fan Hub with Remote Controller for PC Case, Support 10 Ports 5V-3PIN ARGB / 12V 4PIN PWM, Smart Circuit Protection, Magnetic Mount, SATA Powered(12V 4-pin RGB Fans not Supported)

I agree with the suggestion of adding a second pump. You can mount it to the side of the 1080 housing. Either of these are excellent options for that. I own both. The second option includes a pump and you can mount it on the side with fittings, beteen the top and bottom radiator ports. The larger option needs to be mounted to the side of the housing that does not have fittings. Alphacool Eisbecher Aurora 250mm Glass Reservoir with D5 Body (Pump Not Included), Black/Acetal Alphacool Core 100 Aurora reservoir Acetal/Acryl with VPP Pump (I recommend this option and mounting in between the top and bottom radiator ports. That's where I mounted mine.) You can power the external pumps and fans with an ITX PSU. Just use a jumper on the 24-pin motherboard cable. This is what I used and it was good. Apevia ITX-PFC400W Mini ITX/Flex ATX / 1U 400W Fully Modular Power Supply, Full Range Active PFC 90-264V, AC for POS AIO System Desktop Gaming Server Small Form Factor (Flex ITX) Computer PSU You can attach it to the blank side of the radiator housing if you use the Core 100 on the side between the top and bottom fittings. Alternatively, you can use one of these to runs the fans and pumps, but will need to solder a molex connector to the end. I have one on my chiller to run the two pumps and it works great.

Yes, you should be good to go. If you can afford it, buy the EKWB 90° rotary fittings, as they are more durable. I edited my posts above several times so you may have been shopping between edits. I mentioned the disadvantage of black fittings and suggested a filter (with a link). Edit - @Reciever you may already know this, but on the chance you do not, your flat reservoir cannot be used with the D5 pump facing the ceiling. It has to be used either vertically or with the pump facing the floor or it will hold air and burn out the pump.

@Reciever - another tip. Buy yourself a cheap black window screen kit from Home Depot, Lowes or Amazon. You can get a kit with black fiberglass screen and black frame, 90° corner adapters, spline and roller tool. Cut the frame to fit the outer dimension of the radiator housing. Use adhesive magnet strips (from Amazon) on the radiator-facing side of the screen frame to attach it to your radiator as a dust filter. You would be amazed about how much cleaner the radiators and fans will be using the screen as a filter, and it looks perfect... like a factory-made filter. When it gets dirty, you clean it in a matter of seconds with a Swiffer duster or vacuum cleaner. I recommend buying flat magnetic strips. The rolled magnetic strips try to curl and do not stick to the aluminum screen frame nearly as well. Use Gorilla or 3M heavy-duty rubber mounting tape if the sticky stuff on the magnetic strips doesn't hold over time. (It usually ends up coming loose, but the rubber mounting tape is nearly impossible to remove once the magnets are stuck in place if you clean the aluminum frame thoroughly with alcohol.)