electrosoft

Using the beta version, even though the slider will go to +100 still caps at 1.1 as @papu indicated. Using exact same settings, clocks boosted up to 3135mhz. Board power increased to ~540w. Temps are still in the 50's.

I tried it with the official release and as @Papusan pointed out the voltage slider is still locked and running it with settings on did nothing. Which beta version did you run? I'll give it a whirl.

Your memory OC on your KPE 3090 was definitely better than mine for sure. As for MSI, if I was just basing it on my Newegg one, I would have no problems calling it a decent sample that is hanging with all the other models memory OC wise and actually GPU clocking higher than the ones on that list I posted.... .....then we get the best buy one that was atrocious. If I had purchased that one first, it would have went right back just on the jet engine coil whine alone. The terrible memory and GPU overclocking was the icing on the cake. Without the companies properly binning based on more expensive models sometimes (or doing it poorly), silicon lottery is grossly in play. TT stock vs OC samples:

Exactly....in a dynamic environment such as an actively running OS, the tiniest changes CAN have a small or even profound impact. Moving the sliders is the culmination of other steps taken from OS tweaking to going custom water, outlier cooling solutions (dragging your PC outside, using a portable AC unit, dunking your rads, pelt, LN, etc...) to binning chips, motherboards, memory, fine tuning thermal solutions, lapping CPU and GPU and more... There's so much more to it. Take your laptop which has many more constraints than a desktop. Create another OS partition that is tweaked for benching You can get under the hood and analyze your heatsink to tweak and enhance it Install or mod in custom fans use a portable AC unit for better cooler air intake add water cooling even Test various thermal compounds and solutions with end game being a perfect LM application lap the CPU and GPU if applicable It depends on how serious you are and how far you want to take it.

After testing my Newegg one, I was like, "this is not bad at all and it's quiet." I was expecting similar or better results with the Best Buy one and it is acting like a Trio. I actually did a search on poor 4090 memory OC to see if such low numbers were possible and apparently they are for memory OC on some duds to hit + 700-900 max on memory and 150ish on GPUs. It does make one wonder what silicon quality is in the HOF 4090 for $2500+? Looking at some reviews, even some Founders cards had problems hitting +1200 memory OC, MSI +1000 and even the mighty Strix 4090 with a monster memory OC of +2000 (max) was stable at +1750 and GPU +180 with it's 120% slider: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asus-rtx-4090-rog-strix-oc-review/2 Then you have tech power up and their nifty little chart of sample OCs: I definitely remember my KPE 3090 being average both in memory and GPU overclocking. It did hit the promised 2025 out of the box. It was right around 2040 I think. But my KPE 3090ti was a much better sample both GPU and memory OC on average. It boosted to ~2070-2085 and memory was definitely >=+1000.

So I've been playing with my two MSI Liquid Suprim X 4090s this evening for 3-4hrs... the Best Buy one is definitely worse than the Newegg one I picked up and will be going back ASAP. I'm more than good with the Newegg one. Best buy one = worse boost clocks, worse OC, worse memory OC by a mile, insane coil whine like my bud's Suprim X aircooled model (which at least boosts ~2790 stock). I know it is only guaranteed to hit 2625mhz out of the box but wow.....Feels like my first KPE 3090 out of box clocks all over again on the Best Buy one. For stock, out of the box gaming they're both doing as a 4090 should do but the overclock difference and coil whine is very distinct. Both cards w/ fans 100%, Slider to max (10% (!) ). Both cards hitting MSI Vbios power limit of ~530w 12900k e cores are off, clocks synced to 5.3 all core. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- New Egg: (No coil whine till >200fps and then very minor) Out of box game clocks = 2820-2835 Max Mem +1500 (+1575 for benching with some mild artifacting. >+1575 = twinkle city and crash) Max GPU +225 Max reported clock = 3060 w/ OC Max board power draw = ~533w Max temp = ~57c Hot spot = ~73c Mem = ~60c ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Best Buy: (Screaming banshee even at 100fps....holy terror at >200fps) Out of box game clocks = 2700-2715 (?) Max Mem +700 (+750 for benching with some mild artifacting. >+750 = twinkle city and crash) Max GPU +150 Max reported clock = 2875 w/ OC Max board power draw = ~533w Max temp = ~58.5c Hot spot = ~75c Mem = ~62c ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is the Newegg card in action:

Yeah I've found on more than one occasion double and/or improperly placed thermal pads when breaking down systems. Another issue could be pad thickness or rigidity. Now that I have my unit back my temps are up by ~8c over my K5 Pro. This is with a pure stock heatsink and stock thermal pads. I'll be repadding and replacing the stock screws with M6x2.5 (If I recall correctly from my replacements before) to hand tighten for optimal pressure. When sanding heatsinks I always use a fine grade and very light strokes or for targeted sanding a dremel and a sanding plate. Always nice to crack open a unit and see a pristine 2080 Super all new and shiny. 🙂

What was your flow rate before and after? Whew, imagine a 4090 in that loop. 🙂

Happy birthday @Mr. Fox! I take it most of us have grown children by now.... I guess that makes me the senior "youngin" in the group at a "spry" 52? 🤣

Unfortunately once you apply LM and it soaks into your copper it is hard to impossible to get back your original copper luster outside of sanding it down through all that soak. I am not a fan of LM in laptops anymore except on delidded CPUs under the hood between the die and IHS. I'm very pleased my repairs replaced the original heatsink with a brand new one and no LM soak. As for temps.... Two reasons here: #1. The "uneven bits" of hardened material are causing pairing issues. You will need to sand that off. #2. The overall pressure on the die either from the pads and/or the fixed depth screws. You can replace the fixed depth screws with manual ones you can hand tighten to get better pressure but those uneven bits will need to be addressed. I ran into the same issue with my original ZtecPC which had previously been a LM model on both the GPU and CPU. I had to file/sand bits off the actual CPU IHS too along with the heatsink. I used very fine grade sand paper to take it down.

Papu to the rescue as always with the links. 🙂

Got my X170SM-G back today. Absolutely loved the tech (Matt) assigned to it. Friendly, knowledgeable, in constant contact and this wasn't his first rodeo with X170SM-G units. He is the type of tech you hope gets assigned to your repair. After further diagnosis, both the Motherboard AND GPU were shot. I had asked to get rid of the K5 Pro gunk of death if possible. Ended up replacing the motherboard, GPU and heatsink (yay no more shiny former LM spots to deal with). Also returned it to 100% thermal pads (no K5 anywhere). He was also kind enough to send back my bad 2080 Super too. I wish all techs were like this. I swapped back in my Golden 10900k and it booted right back up to my original Raid 0 (256GB x 2) diagnostic install. Bad news is no Prema on the replacement board so I'll have to contact him on that but considering @ssj92 bought a new (ish) X170SM-G from them and no Prema or Prema listed on their site for some time it looks like they may not be doing setups/flashes with Prema anymore. Since it has a new heatsink, it doesn't have any of the original mods on it which is fine. I don't miss finding little tiny globs of LM from the initial config from ZtecPC in all types of hidden nooks when they switched it back to traditional paste. The way the unit looks, I'd almost think parts of the chassis are new too. It looks great! FYI the new old stock 2080S they ordered from Clevo direct is dated December 2020 so that gives you an idea of when Clevo started to ramp down production of cards most likely.

Your hotspot should be around ~76 and GPU around ~65: If your temps are that out of bounds, try switching to a thicker thermal paste not LM. The problem could be contact issues and if you don't have an optimal pairing LM and it's very thin nature is a liability instead of an advantage. For LM to truly shine you need to make absolute sure your pairing is tight and optimal and on laptops that is sometimes hard to achieve.

Well NorthridgeFix did a repair on an Aorus 4090 whatever you can extract from this video:

The Aorus Master line is their top of the line air cooled models. I actually love the LCD screen and build of them. That was the 3070 I had and it ran crazy cool and no whine. I'd be curious to see if they bump it up. I wonder if it uses the same PCB as their Waterforce line of hybrid cards? https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-4090-gv-n4090aorusx-w-24gd/p/N82E16814932556?Item=N82E16814932556&Description=4090&cm_re=4090-_-14-932-556-_-Product

Can't argue with this. It is good to see cards coming into and staying in stock. The other day it was the Gigabyte 4090 in stock all day at Newegg. Now, hours later, the MSI 4090 Liquid X is still in stock sold and shipped by NE. On Best Buy it took 4-5 hours to sell out of the 4090 TUF. I even had a Strix 4090 in my cart before I jettisoned it for its $2k price point. Just nice to be able to add and even buy various 4090s fairly easy now and we're not even to my February 2023 check in prediction. 4090 models routinely coming into stock at NE 4080 all in stock at NE 4070ti all in stock at NE 7900xt most in stock at NE 7900xtx still barely in stock (if at all) at NE. If this was the Crypto boom times all of these would still be out of stock and gone in seconds. That list looks about the same for myself too especially top two which were my original US picks. No Zotac for myself. Definitely like the Colorful (and Neptune 4090). ROG 4090 is nice too just not at $2k.

With your setup, I'd love to see you push a 4090 at 1440p and 4k to see if it can bottleneck your CPU.

In the end, a bottom barrel 4090 is $1600. How you choose to pay an AIB tax is on you but both Hybrid and air cooled ($1799 / $1719) are going to cost you even if you niggle over a $100 here or there the cards are expensive (and don't forget your friendly sales tax). And of course there is always the "Well I wanted it so I'm buying it," factor (See: KPE 3090TI) and life is too short to fret sometimes and meant to be enjoyed in the moment. I was reminded of this recently from a loved one who passed away who told me, "Life is short. Eat the cake. Take the Trip. Buy the toy. Never shy away from leisurely pursuits. Enjoy life." I pinch pennies everywhere else and try to maximize buy/sell of hardware to offset accepted losses of liking tech; but I know what brings me joy in regards to my leisurely pursuits and it's tech so when able I hit the buy button and enjoy it in the here and now even as I weigh the pros and cons before, during and after. 🙂

Obviously. 🙂 I'm the one who has said time and time again over the years, regardless of the SP throw it on a bench and test it. The fact remains that KS chips overall are better than K/KF chips with a lot of cross over as I alluded to earlier a few days ago and the iGor's labs chart just confirms. Also remember he had no access to Malay chips either which are popping even better....poor iGor. 🙂 I know you paid a pretty penny for your binned chip and I know it can hurt a bit to see a "Special" edition come out that pushes yours down on the "special" chart with people popping open KS chips that are monsters but just think in the fall this whole cycle repeats again with the RPL refresh. Enjoy your chip bro! 🙂

I just got my X170SM-G back from repair today for a bad GPU and still under warranty. I haven't fired it up yet but I think about the state of throw away laptops often. If my laptop was out of warranty, regardless of a bad CPU, GPU or forbid soldered on storage or memory (shudder), I'm out an entire laptop. I can't get in there and just replace the one, single bad component or bin my CPU where variance unit to unit can be pretty staggering.

Igor's labs overall findings for SP ratings: 13900KS chips are overall just better than 13900K/KF chips. If I was in the market for a new 13th gen, I wouldn't even bother with a 13900K/KF. I'd go right for a 13900KS every time. Every. Time. Your chip is good. A top 2% 13900k but it has been invalidated from overall top bin with 13900KS chips which pushes it down to top 10% which is still admirable and with your outlier setup you're getting good results. Enjoy it. 🙂 It happens. 🙂

I was just contemplating picking up one of these in 2TB capacity but with the newness of it held off and said "Summer '23"....ack. I'll just reiterate my overall displeasure with my 7900XTX for my use case. It did boost to 3ghz running Superposition and scored above average in Timespy vs other 7900XTX out there but RT was garbage and gains just weren't there in FO76 and WoW. Locking everything down outside of their own limited OC tools is the icing on the cake. A lot of issues pop up with RT enabled from dismal performance to weird stutters I couldn't fix and RT enabled definitely turned on the "coil whine" switch after a week or two of testing. Odd issues with Z590 was the icing on the cake.

Yeah that's a nice, beastly config. With all the BIOS refinements (especially from XMG) and a new unlocked BIOS in the works from @Sergey Muratov and company the future is bright! Good time to get in on the action. 🙂

Best Buy currently having a massive drop of 4090s. Hasn't happened for weeks. Camp out for the next 30-60 and refresh. Cancelled the MSI Trio and re-ordered another Suprim X with discount and rewards total price = $1594.33

Awesome to finally see it purchased and in action, thanks! Do you have hard data of your original heatsink vs the newer/beefier heatsink in regards to temps? I'd be curious to see the original heatsink vs the new heatsink (no water) vs the new heatsink (water engaged) if possible. I know getting those fans under control is always a blessing. 🙂