*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[Mr. Fox]

On 8/31/2022 at 11:38 PM, ryan said:

@Recieverare you a ninja mod?lol just kidding but your emoji made me think that...pretty tight ship your running!! great job... I have the bad habit of triple posting also..I think its ok if the posts are unrelated.

 

Im thinking of a gaming desktop, can't decide between 2080ti and 3080ti. all I want to accomplish is 18k timespy and 4k/120 gaming on older titles. anyone here have a 2080ti? kinda dumb question as you guys are in the elite class of benchmarkers.

The hard part is when you see the post you want to reply to after you've already posted and nobody posts after you. You can edit, but not add a new quote. There's no way to quote the post you are going to reply to in a post that was already saved. For some reason the forum software has a limitation that makes it where you can't copy and paste the quote from a temporary new post. The same functional limitation makes it where you can't quote a post in a different thread. There are times when I find the question and answer more appropriate in a different thread.

 

If you're looking for a decent gaming experience you won't find a lot of difference one versus the other. Best to shop based on price. The 3070 probably does a slightly better job of ray tracing.

 

[Reciever]

41 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

The hard party is when you see the post you want to reply to after you've already posted and nobody posts after you. You can edit, but not add a new quote. There's no way to quote the post you are going to reply to in a post that was already saved. For some reason the forum software has a limitation that makes it where you can't copy and paste the quote from a temporary new post. The same functional limitation makes it where you can't quote a post in a different thread. There are times when I find the question and answer more appropriate in a different thread.

 

If you're looking for a decent gaming experience you won't find a lot of difference one versus the other. Best to shop based on price. The 3070 probably does a slightly better job of ray tracing.

 

Yes this is accurate, and an issue that I plan to look into. Took tuesday/Wednesday off next week to finally take a serious look at what I can do to mitigate or eliminate this issue (and others) altogether as editing in a quote response after the post is made is basically unfeasible for the standard user at present. 

 

That being said I can do it via moderator tools by merging posts so there has got to be means to facilitate that without elevating perms. 

 

That's why I try to strike a balance on that front for now. 

[electrosoft]

9 hours ago, ryan said:

@Recieverare you a ninja mod?lol just kidding but your emoji made me think that...pretty tight ship your running!! great job... I have the bad habit of triple posting also..I think its ok if the posts are unrelated.

 

Im thinking of a gaming desktop, can't decide between 2080ti and 3080ti. all I want to accomplish is 18k timespy and 4k/120 gaming on older titles. anyone here have a 2080ti? kinda dumb question as you guys are in the elite class of benchmarkers.

 

One of my pet peeves is numerous different subjects being addressed in the same post. I prefer individual posts responding to each person's message unless they're related to your response / flow.

 

As for GPUs, I would definitely stick with 3000 series now with prices coming down as they are. What is your budget? That will really dial in what you can get.

 

 

[tps3443]

10 hours ago, ryan said:

@Recieverare you a ninja mod?lol just kidding but your emoji made me think that...pretty tight ship your running!! great job... I have the bad habit of triple posting also..I think its ok if the posts are unrelated.

 

Im thinking of a gaming desktop, can't decide between 2080ti and 3080ti. all I want to accomplish is 18k timespy and 4k/120 gaming on older titles. anyone here have a 2080ti? kinda dumb question as you guys are in the elite class of benchmarkers.

 

I have owned (6) 2080Ti’s in my days when they were king. And I’ll say this. First thing first, you want an A bin GPU preferably with Samsung GDDR6. The “Non-A” 2080Ti’s are locked to a maximum power limit of 250-310 watts of juice max. This will provide a 13,600-14,200 Timespy Graphics score range. But with an “A Bin” 2080Ti you can overclock it and easily achieve as high as even 18,000 graphics score with proper cooling, making it about 30% faster than a stock RTX3070, or nearly 15-18% faster than a stock 3070Ti. 
 

Any and all 2080Ti Founder Editions are “A Bin GPU’s”. And a lot of AIB 2080Ti’s are too.  The factory overclocked models are a good indication that it is an “A bin GPU”

 

If I was going to recommend a 2080Ti, it would probably be a 2080Ti Kingpin because it has a AIO water cooler and it’s going to throw down the best case scenario right out of the box. If you could grab one for a decent price on the forums or eBay etc, that would be my option. Another option would be 2080Ti Strix models.
 

Go through this chart and make sure it is a “A bin TU102A die” the non-A 2080Ti’s cannot be flashed to “A bin bios” it won’t work. You have to physically modify the card by soldering on shunts to trick the power delivery so it can be removed from “Ultra gimp mode” I cannot recommend enough to go here and take a look, on page (1) it will list every 2080Ti, and whether it is “A Bin” or a “Non A Bin” 

 

Then after that I would purchase based on what you can find for sale that offers the best cooling, for the best price that is indeed an “A bin 2080Ti”

 

 

https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owners-club.1706276/

[Vasudev]

On 8/26/2022 at 12:52 AM, Papusan said:

Did you run TS benchmark while Benchmate run in the background? You should test it different/several ways and after a re-boot. Both with and without benchmate in the background. Same also with and without clearing the  CPU cache with benchmate. Always re-boot between the different ways to test.

Tested it after clearing out and other cache. It seems uCode wasn't loaded properly, scores are lower. For gaming not seeing much FPS drops. OS slipstreaming took longer than expected for Win 10.

[Vasudev]

On 8/26/2022 at 9:38 AM, Mr. Fox said:

For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. In contrast to Arctic Cooling's handling of this, we see examples of the opposite.

@johnkssshas always shared the belief that honesty is always the best policy. It seems that might not work for any of us going forward. We may have to stoop to their level to get the job done.  

That's sad to hear since you, Johnkss Papusan and other have been OC'ing LGA in PC/laptops for decades. Intel should never sell K chips if warranty is void since there are lot of variable such as mobo defaults set to Auto OC w/ adaptive voltage contols and many users will not be aware of those. I think they should have given a new CPU considering it costs a lot and 12th gen are near EOL once 13th gen are relased officially in shelves and online stores.

Now, Intel considers LGA or socketed hardware as BGA and extra cost/warranty swaps is none of their business. Well, next time we will need to re-consider who gets our money.

[jaybee83]

5 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

The hard party is when you see the post you want to reply to after you've already posted and nobody posts after you. You can edit, but not add a new quote. There's no way to quote the post you are going to reply to in a post that was already saved. For some reason the forum software has a limitation that makes it where you can't copy and paste the quote from a temporary new post. The same functional limitation makes it where you can't quote a post in a different thread. There are times when I find the question and answer more appropriate in a different thread.

 

If you're looking for a decent gaming experience you won't find a lot of difference one versus the other. Best to shop based on price. The 3070 probably does a slightly better job of ray tracing.

 

 

it is actually possible to add quotes! but only on desktop, not on mobile browsers...u have to manually cut n paste them. here, lemme show you (end of message part 1 without editing)

 

edit: aaand here inserting a quote from @Reciever

4 hours ago, Reciever said:

Yes this is accurate, and an issue that I plan to look into. Took tuesday/Wednesday off next week to finally take a serious look at what I can do to mitigate or eliminate this issue (and others) altogether as editing in a quote response after the post is made is basically unfeasible for the standard user at present. 

 

That being said I can do it via moderator tools by merging posts so there has got to be means to facilitate that without elevating perms. 

 

That's why I try to strike a balance on that front for now. 

and yes ure right, altho it is possible its not really feasible....

[Mr. Fox]

23 minutes ago, Vasudev said:

Well, next time we will need to re-consider who gets our money.

Unfortunately, it is a monkey see, monkey do thing. AMD has the same policy on overclocking. The Intel monkeys saw the AMD monkeys getting away with shirking their responsibility, so now they are doing it. Doesn't matter who gets your money, you're going to get screwed from either company. I purchased an Allstate/Square Trade policy for $50 with the new 12900KS that includes accidental damage. There is no verbiage in the policy that hints at excluding overclocking. Hopefully, there will be no reason for me to use it or to find out if they go out of their way to deny a legitimate warranty claim.

18 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

it is actually possible to add quotes! but only on desktop, not on mobile browsers...u have to manually cut n paste them. here, lemme show you (end of message part 1 without editing)

I will be curious how you do it. I seldom use mobile, but copy/paste on desktop doesn't seem to work for me when it comes to adding quotes when editing an existing post. I have tried many times and it doesn't seem to work. I'd love to know what you are doing differently.

 

Edits below:

7 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

 

Interesting. I have tried that before and it did not work, but Ctrl+C (copy) does not work. However Ctrl+X (cut) does. Weird. Also, right click does not show the "Copy" command, only "Copy Image"

 

Also worth noting, I have to add the new test first and past above the text I add or I cannot add new text below the pasted quote. For some reason the bottom line of text of the pasted quote is like the end of the editable space.

[jaybee83]

1 minute ago, Mr. Fox said:

Unfortunately, it is a monkey see, monkey do thing. AMD has the same policy on overclocking. The Intel monkeys saw the AMD monkeys getting away with shirking their responsibility, so now they are doing it. Doesn't matter who gets your money, you're going to get screwed from either company. I purchased an Allstate/Square Trade policy for $50 with the new 12900KS that includes accidental damage. There is no verbiage in the policy that hints at excluding overclocking.

I will be curious how you do it. I seldom use mobile, but copy/paste on desktop doesn't seem to work for me when it comes to quotes. I have tried many times and it doesn't seem to work. I'd love to know what you are doing differently.

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

[Vasudev]

4 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Unfortunately, it is a monkey see, monkey do thing. AMD has the same policy on overclocking. The Intel monkeys saw the AMD monkeys getting away with shirking their responsibility, so now they are doing it. Doesn't matter who gets your money, you're going to get screwed from either company. I purchased an Allstate/Square Trade policy for INR 3,984 with the new 12900KS that includes accidental damage. There is no verbiage in the policy that hints at excluding overclocking.

 

Hmmm. It seems I'm outdated on warranty info when using PBO and OC on AMD. Even AMD doesn't honor warranty.  I think maybe *ALL* OC'able CPU,GPU,RAM might not honor OC warranty.

[Mr. Fox]

20 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

See my edit above your reply. Thanks for the Ctrl+X suggestion. Not sure why Ctrl+C and right-click copy don't work for me. Interesting.

16 minutes ago, Vasudev said:

Hmmm. It seems I'm outdated on warranty info when using PBO and OC on AMD. Even AMD doesn't honor warranty.  I think maybe *ALL* OC'able CPU,GPU,RAM might not honor OC warranty.

I am not even sure that is a legal position. Apparently, it has not been challenged in court yet. They could legitimately deny damage caused by overclocking. Voiding a warranty for no reason other than the customer being honest when asked the question is an unethical business practice. Unless they have some kind of evidence or reasonable basis for concluding the damage was caused by overclocking, there is no legitimate basis to refuse to pay for a product that fails to function correctly during the warranty period. This would apply to delidding as well. No different than saying your warranty is null and void because you replaced thermal paste yourself, used nylon washers under the ILM to keep from bending the CPU, or undervolted to improve thermals. They basically are voiding a warranty and refusing to cover any failures if the customer chooses not to use BIOS defaults.

[Vasudev]

4 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

See my edit above your reply. Thanks for the Ctrl+X suggestion. Not sure why Ctrl+C and right-click copy don't work for me. Interesting.

I am not even sure that is a legal position. Apparently, it has not been challenge in court yet. They could legitimately deny damage caused by overclocking. Voiding a warranty for no reason other than the customer being honest when asked the question is an unethical business practice. Unless they have some kind of evidence or reasonable basis for concluding the damage was caused by overclocking, there is no legitimate basis to refuse to pay for a product that fails to function correctly during the warranty period. This would apply to delidding as well. No different than saying your warranty is null and void because you replaced thermal paste yourself, used nylon washers under the ILM to keep from bending the CPU, or undervolted to improve thermals. They basically are voiding a warranty and refusing to cover any failures if the customer chooses not to use BIOS defaults.

I didn't know that replacing thermal paste and undervolt is seen as voiding the warranty policy. Even I haven't heard a court case for this.  Maybe Steve from GN or Roman from TG or others can shed some light.

[jaybee83]

44 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Also worth noting, I have to add the new test first and past above the text I add or I cannot add new text below the pasted quote. For some reason the bottom line of text of the pasted quote is like the end of the editable space.

 

yep same here. what i do is just add 2-3 empty lines first, then go back up and insert the quote. that way u have those additional empty lines after the quote ready to text 🙂 

[Reciever]

46 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

I wish to implore you to make a guide and I will staple it into the next announcement 

[Papusan]

A few more pictures. The Crock is still there bro @electrosoft🙃 I lack still a lot parts.

 

 

Alphacool on top and EK on the bottom (45 vs 60mm thickness). Drying after flushing.

 

 

And gota love quality. And yep, shipping takes a lot of time when we talk about Norway. Need more parts and/or you have to replace flawed parts it it will take up to two weeks. 

 

[jaybee83]

1 hour ago, Reciever said:

I wish to implore you to make a guide and I will staple it into the next announcement 

haha sure, want a post here or a new thread? or send it to you via DM? lemme know how i can help 🙂 

 

@Papusan duuuude, that 60mm rad is a THICC BOI!

[Reciever]

2 hours ago, jaybee83 said:

haha sure, want a post here or a new thread? or send it to you via DM? lemme know how i can help 🙂 

 

@Papusan duuuude, that 60mm rad is a THICC BOI!

We have a tutorial section here! That I haven't contributed towards yet... 

[electrosoft]

7 hours ago, Papusan said:

A few more pictures. The Crock is still there bro @electrosoft🙃 I lack still a lot parts.

 

 

Alphacool on top and EK on the bottom (45 vs 60mm thickness). Drying after flushing.

 

 

And gota love quality. And yep, shipping takes a lot of time when we talk about Norway. Need more parts and/or you have to replace flawed parts it it will take up to two weeks. 

 

 

Hey! At least the pants match the Crocs (which give me a chuckle everytime 🙂 ).

 

Looking forward to the custom water adventures @Papusan!

[Papusan]

1 hour ago, electrosoft said:

 

Hey! At least the pants match the Crocs (which give me a chuckle everytime 🙂 ).

 

Looking forward to the custom water adventures @Papusan!

Hehe. I always walk in black clothes brother🙂Even the socks has to match the crocks🙂 And the dog is black. All black. And My wife and Kids nagging that I should change a bit on the style and start use some colored clothes, LOOL

 

Guess what I tell them.... Nope, not me. But Grey is the nearest I could go for as a 2nd choice. Have a silver grey car. But the previous was black, HaHa

 

Had to use spacers because the screws is too long. And more rads means more fans and even more screws. I have to use what I find home. At least one side of the rads have the faster 3000 rpm fans from Nochtua and EK. I put the different ones in front so I can swap them out easier. and I need more parts. Maybe I get them before Christmas?🙃 And very fun that I need different types of screws. M3, M4 Unc 6-32. Nothing of this here home. What a fun place have computers as hobby.

 

 

[jaybee83]

12 hours ago, Reciever said:

We have a tutorial section here! That I haven't contributed towards yet... 

 

done 🙂 

[electrosoft]

Labor Day weekend sale from EVGA via Newegg 3090ti FTW 1099 ($900 off):

 

https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-3090-ti-24g-p5-4981-kr/p/N82E16814487562

 

 

[Papusan]

Fun project. Even one of the biggest chassis has to be picked into pieces to be able to fit some bigger/thicker radiators. 1000D is damn nice and big chassis and with a lots of space but fail if you want add in thicker/bigger radiators for best cooling. At least on the top mounting. Hence you need to do some modification’s for this chassis. But in the front there is enough space for 2x480 80mm thick rads with fans in push and pull. If I went with slimmer 45 mm rads in front I would probably be able to so without major changes for the top mount. Or just scrapped fans in push and pull.

 

Push and pull is probably overkill for 45 mm rads thats placed on top, but I have to do the mod on top anyway, so.... 

 

Hope for 2x480 80 mm rads in front. And 1x420 45mm on the top. All push pull. Later if I get a water cooled GPU I will put the GPU radiator in front/or reuse one of the 480 mm in front for the GPU. This way so the Cpu and Gpu both benefits from colder air. The 420 mm rad on top will be connected to the Cpu loop as the cpu is more difficult to cool. Or I'll find and put 2x480 45 mm mm in top for a second rad for both the Cpu and Gpu. Many options as long you have a chassis that can handle 4 of them. Happy the chassis is big enough and not have cramped size as some prefer.

 

 

Many ways to mount the radiator. But plastic strips it will be for now. This won't be showing in the finished build. And its easy to swap out if youlater want to change your cooling setup.

 

 

The finished results looks good🙂

 

Swapped out the longer screws with the spacers and put them on top where you won't see them

 

 

You can also see the brown gasket I glued on around the door opening to prevent unfiltred air to go into the chassis (the big unwanted gap between the door and chassis with the door closed was a real engineering flaw from Corsair). But this gasket mod have worked very well. And it's somewhat sad Corsair went cheapo for their chassis flagship and skrapped to send with a 2nd 8x120 mm fan tray you could use in top and not only one for the front. I expect the greedy bean counters at Corsair aw they could save 3-5$.

 

[Papusan]

 

Jep, enough space for fans in push and pull also for the big boy in front 🙂 I still can't grasp why Noctua jumped on poo brown colors. A pretty disgusting color. I need to cover hide the ugly brown color from Nochua with a nice black tape. Same for the ugly blue text on the top rad  @electrosoft @Mr. Fox 🙂

 

[Ashtrix]

10 hours ago, Papusan said:

 

Jep, enough space for fans in push and pull also for the big boy in front 🙂 I still can't grasp why Noctua jumped on poo brown colors. A pretty disgusting color. I need to cover hide the ugly brown color from Nochua with a nice black tape. Same for the ugly blue text on the top rad  @electrosoft @Mr. Fox 🙂

 

 

 

I'm guessing those are Noctua NF-A12x25mm, if so they do offer them in Black as Chromax option (I think this fan was most waited for Chromax Black option, came out in 2021 only as they have almost all of them in Black iirc). They are retailing for $33, very expensive vs cheaper alternatives like Arctic P12, however the weight of Noctua is higher than Arctic and also the motor for the Fan is bigger on Noctua too. Plus there is a lot of padding / anti vibration rubber on Noctua too.  And Noctuas are made in Taiwan vs rest in China.

 

Also I realized late that those are Industrial PPC 3000 RPM beast Delta successors, well Noctua sells Chromax pads - NA-SAVP1. I bought a ton of them to get a color swap since I won't tolerate any RGB fans and their garbage cabling nonsensical BS along with the software.

 

Only issue with their so called "Sterrox" LCP material is, when I use them to screw to chassis they get very flaky and get their holes destroyed badly as in the screw threading process removes a lot of plastic from the hole's top surface - This happens with Noctua self-tapping screws that come with each fan and Case screws (Fractal) too. I think their plastic is probably too soft so the holes will get destroyed no matter which screw I use, but since they are going for mounting directly to chassis it's acceptable as they are a tight fit. Wish they had the screw ridges from the factory.

[Papusan]

3 hours ago, Ashtrix said:

 

 

I'm guessing those are Noctua NF-A12x25mm, if so they do offer them in Black as Chromax option (I think this fan was most waited for Chromax Black option, came out in 2021 only as they have almost all of them in Black iirc). They are retailing for $33, very expensive vs cheaper alternatives like Arctic P12, however the weight of Noctua is higher than Arctic and also the motor for the Fan is bigger on Noctua too. Plus there is a lot of padding / anti vibration rubber on Noctua too.  And Noctuas are made in Taiwan vs rest in China.

 

Also I realized late that those are Industrial PPC 3000 RPM beast Delta successors, well Noctua sells Chromax pads - NA-SAVP1. I bought a ton of them to get a color swap since I won't tolerate any RGB fans and their garbage cabling nonsensical BS along with the software.

 

Only issue with their so called "Sterrox" LCP material is, when I use them to screw to chassis they get very flaky and get their holes destroyed badly as in the screw threading process removes a lot of plastic from the hole's top surface - This happens with Noctua self-tapping screws that come with each fan and Case screws (Fractal) too. I think their plastic is probably too soft so the holes will get destroyed no matter which screw I use, but since they are going for mounting directly to chassis it's acceptable as they are a tight fit. Wish they had the screw ridges from the factory.

Thanks for the info bro @Ashtrix. The ugly colored Noctua fans is 3000 rpm versions. And of course they still come only in Black and with (brown anti vibration rubber). And not very cheap. Even more expensive if you on top need to ordere it from webshops from other countries (add 25% tax on the units you bought, shipping and the border tax handling - Tax always on top). Buy black anti vibration rubber to remove the brown mess from Nochtua will add more costs. Maybe Noctua does this to milk even more $$$ because they know some (many) hate the brown color? Why not offer both colors or just black rubbers on all their fans? Maybe it would cost them 50 cent (either add it on the cost or take it from their profits). How they do it doesn't matter. Just do it. 

19 hours ago, Papusan said:

You can also see the brown gasket I glued on around the door opening to prevent unfiltred air to go into the chassis (the big unwanted gap between the door and chassis with the door closed was a real engineering flaw from Corsair). But this gasket mod have worked very well. And it's somewhat sad Corsair went cheapo for their chassis flagship and skrapped to send with a 2nd 8x120 mm fan tray you could use in top and not only one for the front. I expect the greedy bean counters at Corsair aw they could save 3-5$.

Whats wrong with Corsairs engineers? How is this possible? Drunk when they was on job?

The fan space on the rear/back side of the chassis is meant for both 120 and 140 mm fans. And this is what you get.... You'll need to use plastic strips for holes on the upper fan'. And why pop/weld on the 3.5" HD tray to the chassis? Why not use normal screws? To save further on costs? This reminds me about the laptop OEM's that weld on the Cpu/GPU on the MB: This to cut cost.

 

They also cut down the cost with offfering two less of the 2.5" ssd trays. There is space for 8 of them but you'll only get 6 of them. How much did Corsair save on this? 4 bucks?

 

 

I checcked up some of my old parts inventory from sub +- 2000's and I finally could find some UNC 6-32 screws for the EK radiator. From my findings... I have a few radiators and from 3 or 4 manufacturers. And of course they don't follow same screw spec standard. And EK have changed to the M3 standard for their radiators. Before or around 2020 they used UNC 6-32 screws. So its important to mark the plastic bag with what type screws you have if you have some leftovers. You never know when you'll need them. Lack of needed parts ain't fun.