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Bought RTX 3080 Laptop GPU for my P775TM1-G.


srs2236

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He isn’t exactly friendly, so I don’t expect less than this (may be 20-30 less for two people, considering the shared transferring cost)…

But still - hell of a price.

on TaoBao both are 50€…

XMG Neo 17 (E24)  | 14900HX | 32GB 5600 CL48@7000 CL34 | RTX4090 | QHD @240Hz G-Sync | 2TB Samsung 990 PRO | Killer WiFi 1675i

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25 minutes ago, MiRaGe said:

He isn’t exactly friendly, so I don’t expect less than this (may be 20-30 less for two people, considering the shared transferring cost)…

But still - hell of a price.

on TaoBao both are 50€…

Oh okay... Best then to figure out a way to order from TaoBao.

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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I am not 100% sure on this one but Secure Boot might be broken with the 3080 for some reason.

 

I tried to play Valorant.

 

That game to my surprise has the most strict anti-cheat rules I have ever seen. You need to have TPM 2.0 and Secure Boot enabled. Litterally have to modify BIOS settings just to play a goddamn video game.

 

Anyway, I tried enabling Secure Boot it didn't work and resulted in my laptop being responsive and doing some activity (responds to Caps Lock, FN+D works aswell) but having a black screen.

 

When I am home I will investigate this issue further.

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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Wait, it makes sense doesn't it?

 

Because Secure Boot is not possible with modified BIOS?

 

I have heavily modified BIOS so that's why it bricked itself?

 

Does anyone have better insight on how Secure Boot works perhaps? And if BIOS modifications affect that? I am starting to think it does 😂

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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4 hours ago, srs2236 said:

Wait, it makes sense doesn't it?

 

Because Secure Boot is not possible with modified BIOS?

 

I have heavily modified BIOS so that's why it bricked itself?

 

Does anyone have better insight on how Secure Boot works perhaps? And if BIOS modifications affect that? I am starting to think it does 😂

If it helps you, 

 

I have secure boot enabled, TPM 2.0 enabled, and Windows defender reports as Core isolation working as well, and I have a heavy modified bios from another laptop so... the problem is elsewhere for sure.

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SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64

 

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3 minutes ago, runix18 said:

If it helps you, 

 

I have secure boot enabled, TPM 2.0 enabled, and Windows defender reports as Core isolation working as well, and I have a heavy modified bios from another laptop so... the problem is elsewhere for sure.

Alright! Thanks a lot! So it is a bug or something.

 

Could you double check with hwinfo if it shows up green as working? Or is it showing up in BIOS as active?

 

 Anyways, I will look into it👍

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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3 hours ago, srs2236 said:

Alright! Thanks a lot! So it is a bug or something.

 

Could you double check with hwinfo if it shows up green as working? Or is it showing up in BIOS as active?

 

 Anyways, I will look into it👍

Here you are

Screenshot (33).png

  • Like 1

Desktop - MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi | AMD 7800X3D | 32 GB Trident Z5 Neo RGB 6000Mhz | MSI RTX 4070TI Suprim X  | Alienware 27 AW2724DM 2K 165 Hz Gsync | Samsung 990 Pro Nvme - Boot | Other various storage | Windows 10 Pro x64

SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64

 

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5 minutes ago, runix18 said:

Here you are

Screenshot (33).png

Thanks! It is indeed working... So something is bugged for me. But atleast I know it should work🙏

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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8 minutes ago, srs2236 said:

Thanks! It is indeed working... So something is bugged for me. But atleast I know it should work🙏

Go in bios, switch to Legacy and see if you have display output.

If you have display output on legacy, reset uefi keys restart and see if it works.

If you do not have display output it might be because incompatible/missing bios entry's in NVdGpuDxe driver module in bios.

Desktop - MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi | AMD 7800X3D | 32 GB Trident Z5 Neo RGB 6000Mhz | MSI RTX 4070TI Suprim X  | Alienware 27 AW2724DM 2K 165 Hz Gsync | Samsung 990 Pro Nvme - Boot | Other various storage | Windows 10 Pro x64

SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64

 

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1 hour ago, runix18 said:

Go in bios, switch to Legacy and see if you have display output.

If you have display output on legacy, reset uefi keys restart and see if it works.

If you do not have display output it might be because incompatible/missing bios entry's in NVdGpuDxe driver module in bios.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

However I can't do nothing🤣

 

FN+D does the reset as usual (based on fans going full speed for a moment) but there is no display output.

 

There is no display output no matter what I do. So it is impossible for me to revert this without using a hardware flasher.

 

I am on my way home, and will update this later. Based on what I searched online it might have something to do with Managment Engine that I have modified aswell.

 

I will see after I start working with hardware flasher.

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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10 hours ago, srs2236 said:

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

However I can't do nothing🤣

 

FN+D does the reset as usual (based on fans going full speed for a moment) but there is no display output.

 

There is no display output no matter what I do. So it is impossible for me to revert this without using a hardware flasher.

 

I am on my way home, and will update this later. Based on what I searched online it might have something to do with Managment Engine that I have modified aswell.

 

I will see after I start working with hardware flasher.

Better not mess with ME. If you do not like it just disable it through Cofee Time and flash bios.

Desktop - MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi | AMD 7800X3D | 32 GB Trident Z5 Neo RGB 6000Mhz | MSI RTX 4070TI Suprim X  | Alienware 27 AW2724DM 2K 165 Hz Gsync | Samsung 990 Pro Nvme - Boot | Other various storage | Windows 10 Pro x64

SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little update:

 

I was able to enable Secure Boot after reflashing a backup of good BIOS. I just had to restore factory keys in BIOS and put Secure Boot mode to custom. Thanks @runix18 for the help once again. I think what bricked it before was trying to restore the keys one by one. If you do that you might get a message saying BIOS has been locked down or something and once reset it will have black screen. A BIOS reflash as in my case was the only fix for this issue (with hardware flasher).

 

And now a bit more sad update. Starting from GeForce drivers 531.18 they have locked down the TDP slider in MSI Afterburner and EVGA Precision (and I assume all other applications). So the last GeForce drivers that you can run the RTX 3080 on P775TM1-G on 165W is 528.49. For now I am staying on 528.49. I don't know maybe in future I will update.

 

Kinda sad considering the fact I found out you can unlock the TDP when I was on 528.24 and now just two driver versions ahead and it's gone...

 

Sad Cry GIF by SpongeBob SquarePants

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Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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Don’t worry, the difference isn’t significant at all between 150W and 165W and I wish you from the bottom of my heart to get your hands on one of the new RTX 4090 monsters ASAP!😊

Besides, 528.24 will serve you well at least an year ahead.

I think though that our machines are singing already the final chords of their swan song anyway. 
I’ll hold my sig for another year and a half and I’ll jump on 4080/4090.

  • Like 1

XMG Neo 17 (E24)  | 14900HX | 32GB 5600 CL48@7000 CL34 | RTX4090 | QHD @240Hz G-Sync | 2TB Samsung 990 PRO | Killer WiFi 1675i

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone!

 

POSCAP update:

 

I recently got my hands on an old HP G62 laptop that I thought I might be able to restore to make a quick buck. Well, turned out I couldn't restore it. I took it apart, and had a look on the motherboard. I noticed something very interesting, something that was on my mind for a long time. I realised, this old 2011 motherboard used EXACTLY the same POSCAPS as my RTX 3080!!! 330, d marking on the POSCAP. Same size and dimensions. It was even the same style, probably same factory.

 

I had been thinking a lot about this before, wondering should I order from Mouser or some other electronics store some fresh new POSCAPS. But many questions aside and worries and cost issues I never bought them. This time, I thought, the board is scrap, this could work... So I did!

 

The motherboard had 9 of these 330, d marking POSCAPS, I only used 5 of them on my 3080. 1 got damaged during desoldering, 3 left on my scrap MOBO. Let me tell you, desoldering them is hard but soldering them back on 3080 is TWICE as hard. I used two soldering stations at once both for soldering and desoldering purposes. I litterally had a friend help me through the whole process. And even with his help the job is not as pretty as I would have liked.

 

The results:

1st of all it didn't explode, which was a plus..😃 2nd of all, 3dmark max core before was +130, now it is stable on +140. Memory before I had +250MHz (or +1000 in afterburner) and now I have +350MHz (or +1400 in afterburner). 2100MHz already seems like insanity to me so I didn't even bother trying more... This is the new 3dmark score, FINALLY broke 14000 and by a nice amount aswell:

 

image.png

 

I will do further tests for stability. Before my daily absolutely rock solid stable was +100 Core on every game. Now I expect this value to rise by atleast 10MHz. Maybe even more. Seeing that before 3dmark was not stable on 140. I will do further testing on many games and report again.

 

Now 10MHz might not seem like a lot, but keep in mind:

  • The POSCAPS are from 2011 (meaning 12 years old now, the capacitance could be drastically reduced)
  • I had to both desolder them using TWO soldering stations at 450c, and resolder them back to the 3080 (which can shorten the lifespan, +capacitance even more)

So, who knows, maybe with a fresh new POSCAPS from Mouser with even better ESR values the benefit would be even better.

 

I will send pictures from my phone.

 

There was more space for I think 4 more POSCAPS, but because they weren't labeled as PC (meaning power capacitor) I didn't want to risk and solder them there as they might serve a completely different purpose. If someone knows that they are safe too please let me know and I will solder them there aswell to check for improvement on OC. I only soldered more POSCAPS where it was referred to as PC or power capacitor. 😃

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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"2100MHz already seems like insanity to me so I didn't even bother trying more..."

No Way Commando GIF by 20th Century Fox Home Entertainment

image.png

 

I ran out of MSI Afterburner slider XD

 

Jokes aside, even though the score has increased, there was 1 flicker during 2225MHz test run and like 5 flickers during 2250MHz so they are not stable. There was though absolutely no flickers during 2200MHz so that is what I will try and daily for now on.

 

I am absolutely shocked by the VRAM OC capabilities. I have no idea at this point whether or not the POSCAPS had something to do with it. I think however one or even two of them were soldered for VRAM aswell. You can be the judge once i upload the pictures.

 

Damn.

 

I am not even trying to go for records or something, but this already makes me 54 from the previous 98 (VRAM on 2100) on the Time Spy leaderboards for 3080 mobile.

Keep in mind I am also not freezing it or anything, I just run max fans and that's it.

 

https://www.3dmark.com/search#advanced?test=spy P&cpuId=&gpuId=1372&gpuCount=0&gpuType=ALL&deviceType=ALL&storageModel=ALL&memoryChannels=0&country=&scoreType=graphicsScore&hofMode=false&showInvalidResults=false&freeParams=&minGpuCoreClock=&maxGpuCoreClock=&minGpuMemClock=&maxGpuMemClock=&minCpuClock=&maxCpuClock=

 

Also from the ranks, it seems only one person was able to complete Time Spy with 2225MHz and no one except me at 2250MHz. I got to say, I believe POSCAPS had something to do with this but I can't say for sure as I never really pushed my VRAM like this. Altough I do remember desktop glitching out one time when at 2050MHz or something and me pushing back to 2000.

 

Anyways, the way I see it, I am just one shunt mod away from WR...

 

Also, I plan to play through all of the Resident Evil 4 Remake. I believe this game will test my OC stability good enough.

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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Pictures:

  • Donor board:

QCH1NA0.jpg

KZNfF3t.jpg

  • Tools used:

gmpLpXd.jpg

ez76uGC.jpg

s8DV2oV.jpg

  • Desoldered POSCAPS:

gXchlPH.jpg

  • POSCAPS soldered on to RTX 3080 before cleaning:

di1Thz4.jpg

PJh7qoX.jpg

XgQWIm5.jpg

PqARafH.jpg

  • POSCAPS soldered on 3080 after cleaning:

kIqaAgV.jpg

nZZl3b2.jpg

Rp5NqLZ.jpg

RH3Yy2J.jpg

  • Comparison between normal 3080 and my POSCAP mod:

BB7uewe.jpg

Screenshot_20220722-202235_eBay.jpg

  • Thumb Up 2
  • Thanks 2

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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@srs2236 It's so cool that I want to do the same. :classic_cool:
My 2080S board also has unused places that are worrying me. I have a shunt mod done, but adding more POSCAPS seems to give me more headroom for OC.

wait soon :classic_wink:

TongFang GM6PX8X | 13900HX | 32Gb@6600Mhz C40 | RTX4080 | QHD @240Hz | PM9A1 1Tb | PREMA MOD | Custom 360mm AIO Liquid System |

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2 hours ago, FTW_260 said:

My 2080S board also has unused places that are worrying me. I have a shunt mod done, but adding more POSCAPS seems to give me more headroom for OC.

wait soon :classic_wink:

Correct, the change shown in the pictures are changes of the electrical phases within the total load of the board. But this does not change the total power consumption!

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5 hours ago, Developer79 said:

Correct, the change shown in the pictures are changes of the electrical phases within the total load of the board. But this does not change the total power consumption!

This mod was not made with the intention to change power consumption in any way. It was just to try and mitigate the voltage drop occuring on Core and VRAM or make it more stable. Because of this I have an improvement in Core OC by 10MHz.

 

I know that it is not a lot but this mod doesn't provide a promise of huge improvoment of OC in the first place. From my very limited knowledge I think it works like this:

  • The voltage reported on software is always not the same on hardware. There is some losses and because of that there is a small voltage drop on Core and also Memory.
  • By adding more Capacitors as in this case OR by just changing to better quality capacitors you can minimize this voltage drop. So the better the caps, the closer the actual voltage supplied to core is to the voltage set by NVIDIA.

What I can get from this is that perhaps the voltage on core is a bit more stable now OR the voltage drop has been decreased or both really.

 

And its a shame that I didn't "push" my VRAM before but I would like to believe that it brought improvements to VRAM aswell. Like I said, I havent seen any other benchmark that has passed with 2250MHz. I would like to believe the mod has helped VRAM too.

 

For the core, as why its stable at Time Spy at 140MHz and not stable in other games I think comes down to Ray Tracing. As soon as I enable Ray Tracing it seems to crash pretty quickly so maybe it's only stable with basic DX12.

 

Also VRAM so far seems stable at 2150MHz which is still massive! And this was tested under RE4 Remake aswell at 4K and VRAM pushed as far as 14GB-15GB used. Again, if I recall correctly it wasn't stable on 2050MHz on desktop that one time but unfortunately I can't confirm whether or not the POSCAP did help my VRAM OC or not.

 

And like I said 10MHz on core is small yes, but perhaps with brand new POSCAPS with better specifications and maybe even higher capacitances the result could be 15MHz or 20MHz.

 

And I am sure for the people running 200W cards this might be even more beneficiary.

 

I am not an expert though and if there is someone who really understands the electronics and design behind all of this please feel free to correct me! I will try to find more info on the 4 additional empty spots and perhaps solder 4 more Caps but I think for them I will be ordering nice and fresh caps from Mouser or something. You can't really trust 12 year old Caps from some old broken motherboard all too much. The repeated desoldering and soldering already is kind of damaging the longevity of the cap so yeah..

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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8 hours ago, FTW_260 said:

@srs2236 It's so cool that I want to do the same. :classic_cool:
My 2080S board also has unused places that are worrying me. I have a shunt mod done, but adding more POSCAPS seems to give me more headroom for OC.

wait soon :classic_wink:

You have a 200W card shunt modded?!?!?! I'm sure at that point your X170SM-G can be used as a grill or something 😂 Do you know the actual wattage being drawn by your 2080S? Would be interesting to see if there would be benefits for you with same type POSCAP mod.

 

Edit:

Read your signature, it all makes sense now once I saw the AIO Liquid System! =D

Clevo P775TM1-G:

Spoiler

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Laptop (165W, +110MHz Core, +350MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-9900KS (5GHz, 4GHz Cache, -130mV, 255A, 200W PL1/2, C0 only)

RAM: 32 GB (3333MHz, 14-17-17-32, 2x16, Micron rev.E, 1.45v)

Storage 1: Kingston KC3000 2TB RAID0 (2x1TB, NVME, PCI-E 3.0)

Storage 2: Seagate LM015 2TB (2.5, HDD, SATA3)

Storage 3: Integral UltimaPro 512GB (SDXC, 100r/50w, PCI-E)

Display 1: AU Optronics B173ZAN0.10 (4K, 60Hz)

Display 2: ROG STRIX XG17AHP (1080, 240Hz, G-Sync, DP)

Wi-Fi/BT: Killer(R) Wireless-AC 1550 (9260NGW, PCI-E)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo ThinkPad T540p:

Spoiler

GPU1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600

GPU2: NVIDIA GeForce GT 730M (+135MHz Core, +339MHz Mem)

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4210M

RAM: 16 GB (1600MHz, 2x8)

Storage: Samsung 860 Pro 256GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

Lenovo IdeaPad E31-70:

Spoiler

GPU: Intel(R) HD Graphics 5500

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-5005U

RAM: 4 GB (1600MHz, 1x4)

Storage: Kingston SA400 128GB (2.5, SSD, SATA3)

Operating system: Windows 11 Pro x64 (22H2)

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6 minutes ago, srs2236 said:

your X170SM-G can be used as a grill or something

My typical shunt-mode temperatures are around 50-60 degrees for the GPU.

7 minutes ago, srs2236 said:

Do you know the actual wattage being drawn by your 2080S?

Approximately 250-260W.

TongFang GM6PX8X | 13900HX | 32Gb@6600Mhz C40 | RTX4080 | QHD @240Hz | PM9A1 1Tb | PREMA MOD | Custom 360mm AIO Liquid System |

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On 5/20/2023 at 5:51 AM, srs2236 said:

Pictures:

  • Donor board:

QCH1NA0.jpg

KZNfF3t.jpg

  • Tools used:

gmpLpXd.jpg

ez76uGC.jpg

s8DV2oV.jpg

  • Desoldered POSCAPS:

gXchlPH.jpg

  • POSCAPS soldered on to RTX 3080 before cleaning:

di1Thz4.jpg

PJh7qoX.jpg

XgQWIm5.jpg

PqARafH.jpg

  • POSCAPS soldered on 3080 after cleaning:

kIqaAgV.jpg

nZZl3b2.jpg

Rp5NqLZ.jpg

RH3Yy2J.jpg

  • Comparison between normal 3080 and my POSCAP mod:

BB7uewe.jpg

Screenshot_20220722-202235_eBay.jpg

I think THIS deserves a tread of it`s own!!!

Desktop - MSI B650 Tomahawk Wifi | AMD 7800X3D | 32 GB Trident Z5 Neo RGB 6000Mhz | MSI RTX 4070TI Suprim X  | Alienware 27 AW2724DM 2K 165 Hz Gsync | Samsung 990 Pro Nvme - Boot | Other various storage | Windows 10 Pro x64

SOLD - Clevo P870DM-G | i9-9700K 4.5 Ghz on all cores (-50 mv undervolted) | 32GB Hyper X Black 2666MHz | Clevo RTX 2080 3.1b undervolted for better temp 1905Mhz @881 mv | AUO B173HAN03.1 144hz Gsync | Samsung 980 NVME | Dsanke TM BIOS - Chujoi13 adapted based on needs | Network Card: Intel AX210-AX | Windows 10 Pro x64

 

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12 hours ago, srs2236 said:

This mod was not made with the intention to change power consumption in any way. It was just to try and mitigate the voltage drop occuring on Core and VRAM or make it more stable. Because of this I have an improvement in Core OC by 10MHz.

 

I know that it is not a lot but this mod doesn't provide a promise of huge improvoment of OC in the first place. From my very limited knowledge I think it works like this:

  • The voltage reported on software is always not the same on hardware. There is some losses and because of that there is a small voltage drop on Core and also Memory.
  • By adding more Capacitors as in this case OR by just changing to better quality capacitors you can minimize this voltage drop. So the better the caps, the closer the actual voltage supplied to core is to the voltage set by NVIDIA.

What I can get from this is that perhaps the voltage on core is a bit more stable now OR the voltage drop has been decreased or both really.

 

And its a shame that I didn't "push" my VRAM before but I would like to believe that it brought improvements to VRAM aswell. Like I said, I havent seen any other benchmark that has passed with 2250MHz. I would like to believe the mod has helped VRAM too.

 

For the core, as why its stable at Time Spy at 140MHz and not stable in other games I think comes down to Ray Tracing. As soon as I enable Ray Tracing it seems to crash pretty quickly so maybe it's only stable with basic DX12.

 

Also VRAM so far seems stable at 2150MHz which is still massive! And this was tested under RE4 Remake aswell at 4K and VRAM pushed as far as 14GB-15GB used. Again, if I recall correctly it wasn't stable on 2050MHz on desktop that one time but unfortunately I can't confirm whether or not the POSCAP did help my VRAM OC or not.

 

And like I said 10MHz on core is small yes, but perhaps with brand new POSCAPS with better specifications and maybe even higher capacitances the result could be 15MHz or 20MHz.

 

And I am sure for the people running 200W cards this might be even more beneficiary.

 

I am not an expert though and if there is someone who really understands the electronics and design behind all of this please feel free to correct me! I will try to find more info on the 4 additional empty spots and perhaps solder 4 more Caps but I think for them I will be ordering nice and fresh caps from Mouser or something. You can't really trust 12 year old Caps from some old broken motherboard all too much. The repeated desoldering and soldering already is kind of damaging the longevity of the cap so yeah..

 

I can understand your motives. It is as I said. The capacitors are only the component of the multiphase buck of the card. The capacitors are not used because Nvidia's specification does not require it. There are such specifications as the loadline with appropriate resistance. Each GPU(e.g. RTX3060- RTX3080) has a special lowest target specification from Nvidia. The capacitors affect the output voltage range DC and AC! You could say the GPU is then flooded more evenly by the current. The output current is more uniform and the behavior at sudden load is adjusted according to the specifications of Nvidia!!! That is actually already everything...

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi Guys, I am considering the same for my 751tm1 🙂  

 

-what bios do you use? Or needs to be used to avoid black screen?

- 775tm1 heatsink mod is difficult? it there any tutorial for that?

 

thanks

Laptop: Clevo P775TM1-G i9 9900k/32G/2080RTX 8Gb G-SYNC/2TbSSD/IPS 144hz FHD/330W

Desktop: Intel 13700k/Asus strix B660/Inno3D 4070Ti 10G/4TbSSD/SFX 750W/NCASE M1/Custom loop/Alienware 2518HF 240Hz G-SYNC

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