tps3443

That was my brothers CPU originally, when my 10900K died, I bought it from my brother. I ran it for a few weeks, then traded it off to Mr Fox for an 11900K. That 10850K ran awesome at 5.3Ghz for me all cores at sub 300 watts under a full load perfectly reliable. More or less a “Economical OC” I couldn’t believe it! Its a good 10850K. That thing easily did 5.2Ghz before I delidded it. I had so much fun with that chip though. I find it amazing how CPU’s can be so different from one another.

Do you have the SP84 10850K?

I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to own the last great 3090 Kingpin flagship GPU during the period of its prime. That GPU has countless hours of gaming, VR, benching, and working under its belt all while being overclocked to the maximum lol. (I still do own it) I always wanted one when I was younger through my 20’s. But never could really afford to buy one. So, at least I got to experience that. I really hate to see EVGA go. But in the end they stood up for right and wrong.

I own one of those Alphacool VPP755 V3 pumps, it has been running 24/7 since I got my waterchiller. Several revisions were made due to early failure, but that was years ago as far as I know they are good pumps now. I will say though, it has been a excellent water pump. I know the VPP755V3 does have more head pressure than a traditional D5. I have a normal 40 watt D5, and a VPP755V3 both running. The VPP755V3 is responsible for increasing the flow rate between the water chiller and back to the components. And I have flow rate for days. The VPP755 will work far better at low or minimum rpm speeds than a D5 will at low or minimum speeds. But I feel like the D5 flows slightly faster at full tilt speeds, not enough to matter though. I’d run another one no problem if my pumps ever failed. I bought Mr.fox’s parts.

I know some people have de-soldered memory modules and soldered them on other GPU’s. (This is not as crazy as what you are suggesting though) The 2080Ti only had the 14Gbps Samsung IC’s. When the 2080 Super came out it had the new 16.5Gbps Samsung IC’s. There is a article where a guy de-soldered the memory modules from two 2080 Supers, and then soldered them all on to a Galax HOF 2080Ti lol. He had to use (2) 2080 Supers, because the 2080 Supers only had 8GB, while the 2080Ti needed (11) memory chips to make up the 11gb of Vram. It worked too, and it was CRAZY fast. You could control memory voltage with the special Galax software only a handful of people had. And they had those memory modules screaming like 19-20gbps on a 2080Ti. MSI made a rare 2080Ti with these modules installed from the factory. It was called the MSI Trio Gaming Z. The only 2080Ti to have the Samsung 18.5gbps IC’s from the factory. But yeah it’s definitely possible. Most GPU bios are built to support the different vendors IC’s. I imagine swapping the whole GPU die is possible as well. Only one way to find out!

I bought a Z690 motherboard and some DDR5. Retiring the 11900K and Z590 Dark to my other PC.

Both of these new retail 11900K’s I bought were total garbage for the most part. Neither can come close to my really good 11900K. Anyways, I’m about ready to clear everything 11th Gen and Z590 and prepare for 13th Gen CPU’s. I have been running an 11900K for long enough to warrant an upgrade! I’ll be pre-ordering a 13900K. It will be fun to see a difference first hand by running my usual games and applications for work.

I have owned (6) 2080Ti’s in my days when they were king. And I’ll say this. First thing first, you want an A bin GPU preferably with Samsung GDDR6. The “Non-A” 2080Ti’s are locked to a maximum power limit of 250-310 watts of juice max. This will provide a 13,600-14,200 Timespy Graphics score range. But with an “A Bin” 2080Ti you can overclock it and easily achieve as high as even 18,000 graphics score with proper cooling, making it about 30% faster than a stock RTX3070, or nearly 15-18% faster than a stock 3070Ti. Any and all 2080Ti Founder Editions are “A Bin GPU’s”. And a lot of AIB 2080Ti’s are too. The factory overclocked models are a good indication that it is an “A bin GPU” If I was going to recommend a 2080Ti, it would probably be a 2080Ti Kingpin because it has a AIO water cooler and it’s going to throw down the best case scenario right out of the box. If you could grab one for a decent price on the forums or eBay etc, that would be my option. Another option would be 2080Ti Strix models. Go through this chart and make sure it is a “A bin TU102A die” the non-A 2080Ti’s cannot be flashed to “A bin bios” it won’t work. You have to physically modify the card by soldering on shunts to trick the power delivery so it can be removed from “Ultra gimp mode” I cannot recommend enough to go here and take a look, on page (1) it will list every 2080Ti, and whether it is “A Bin” or a “Non A Bin” Then after that I would purchase based on what you can find for sale that offers the best cooling, for the best price that is indeed an “A bin 2080Ti” https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owners-club.1706276/

I’m not sure why it is doing that. I was posting a new thread, and it was merging in to my old post.

Building another system for the living room, I couldn’t resist the $279.99 USD for a brand new retail packaged 11900K on Amazon. I’m planning to build a small Mini ITX media type machine. Primarily for games, movies, and streaming and it will primarily only use an Xbox controller. I’m going to throw in a 3050, or maybe a older generation equivalent GPU. I was thinking a Titan X (Pascal), for the money it’s really really fast. Or maybe a RTX2080. These all kind of hover around the $300+ dollar price point. I’m excited to get a gaming machine in the living room area though. It’ll be much much better than the Xbox One X. And with how well the Microsoft Xbox Game pass is integrated in to Windows 11, it’ll be an excellent machine.

If RTX4000 series makes my 3090KP just look like a really really healthy running RTX4070, I may even ride out for 2 more years on it. That build of yours named “Alfred” is that after King Alfred? Like the Netflix series “The last Kingdom” with Uhtred? Lol.

Yep. The OG 3090KP was fairly expensive originally. But damn, it has held up super well. And It was a good value at MSRP when we were all under brain washing lol. I’m keeping mine, I’ve had it for over a year now. HOPEFULLY these amazing prices hold steady when RTX4000 series rolls around.

Hey everyone, I was notified that I can buy a 3090Ti Kingpin Hybrid from EVGA if anyone is interested. Just figured I’d give someone else an opportunity to buy one. I believe it’s $1,999? I already own a 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper, so I don’t really have a need for it. Well, let me rephrase that. “I have a need” but, I can’t spend that much to fill the need lol. 😀 Anyways, have a great 4th of July weekend everyone.

I’m thinking about another 3090 Kingpin honestly. They are water cooled with 360 AIO, and perform the same as a 3090Ti FE. With prices the 3090kp hybrids have become pretty affordable. They are no longer $3,500 LOLZ. 3090Kp= 40.3 Tflops 3090Ti= 40.0 Tflops

Man, have you guys seen how affordable GPU’s have become? I have not looked at prices in months. And, I may actually be able to buy one that’s fast for my 2nd 11900k system.

Hey everyone. It has been a little while since I’ve been on here. The old golden 11900K direct die is still squeaking out 5.5Ghz all cores daily. Work, games etc. You name it! Still running the Z590 Dark, and the 3090 Kingpin HC. My water chiller is still running daily lol. I keep it set to a reasonable temp. Usually I lock it to 65F water temp, and I never run any fans on my large external radiator at all. Daily water chiller really is nice! I don’t have any dew point monitoring in place at all. And I have never had a problem with condensation breaking something. If I want to get crazy with really cold water for benching, I just run the chiller and wipe the top of my radiator until I feel moisture beginning to develop. Once I detect moisture, I’ll just back the chiller off a few degree’s. I hardly ever do this though. Usually it’s fine for a little while with super cold water and a little condensation. I have no sort of art eraser or Vaseline or any protection in place on my motherboard at all for moisture. And it has been truly reliable as a “set it and forget it” especially for daily usage. My water chiller did stop working about a week ago out of the blue, turns out it was just a cheap fuse that had popped for the 110v plug. Replaced that, and it’s back up and running. (I almost bought another chiller) I can’t possibly go back to life without one lol. I really wish I had my 7980XE and X299 Dark again almost. That would have been fun!!! No longer worrying with day to day ambient temp changes are a thing of the past. I bought a new toy as well!! I will say this. The 3090KP, and 11900K have held up very well. I don’t plan to change anything for a while with my system. I’m excited for Bethesda’s new Starfield to release. And if new GPU’s are out around that time, then yeah lol. I’m gonna grab a 4090 or something similar just for that game alone!

Yeah I have no need for the 1600 watt unit. The 1300+ series is really fantastic based on what they can do. Mine was retail sealed and was shipped by EVGA. So, no reason for it to die like that. When it did die, it was probably under a 100 watt load if that even. I am pretty sure just the fuse inside popped inside. Not sure why though?. For now, the 1300P+ platinum unit with C19 will do!! I think I was just unlucky, and it can happen sometimes. Glad it’s an Evga product though. It’s easy to get a new one in its place. If you take a look at their 1300G+/1600G+/2000G+ they are all identical weight and dimensions. I have no doubt the smaller units can hold up to very high levels just fine. Amazon also has some bad reviews of these units failing. And even taking thousands of dollars of hardware with it. First time a brand new PSU has just fizzled out on me before.

Hey everyone! So, my brand new from Evga 1300G+ PSU fizzled out yesterday. It made a loud POP noise and a PSHHHHHHHTTT right after. And you could see a small amount of smoke, and smell a heavy odor of burning going on. It was totally dead. I was worried about it bring other components with it to the grave. Fortunately, I ordered a brand new Evga 1300P+ it was $270 bucks this time. This one is identical to the 1300G+, only it is platinum rated instead of gold rated. Both have the larger C19 power cable. I hooked up the new one, and all is WELL!!! I’m returning my 1300G+ For a refund. That PSU was like $220 bucks with taxes. So, I’ll be happy to get that back or have it replaced at least. Before my PSU cooked it’s self. I turned it off via the PSU switch, and immediately back on. This caused some sort of irreversible fit within the unit, and just killed it. You can clearly see my tool of choose and that would be any sort of utensil on hand.

I still run my 11900K, it has been at 5.5Ghz daily for some time now. My water chiller kicks on and off as usual, it too runs daily lol. I still have the 3090 Kingpin. And, I don’t plan on ever selling it seeing how pale the 3090Ti is. If I’m smart I will keep my 3090KP HC as a backup, or secondary GPU for years to come. If you really think about it, I’d love to have just a 2080Ti FE in my second rig. Which uses weak integrated Intel graphics. So, that should give some indication on how long GPU’s really last us. Anyways, hey everyone!

Hey everyone! Long time no see!