tps3443

My EVGA 1300 P+ power supply is now screaming with coil whine so bad it sounds like an outdoor commercial bug zapper or something. My last PSU was an EVGA 1300G+, that one popped and smoked after just a few weeks of owning it. I’m really losing faith in EVGA power supplies. This coil whine is louder than my water chiller.

Hey I saw some cheap waterblocks for the Zotac RTX4090’s. Are you going to put a waterblock on there? Or are you planning to run another 4090? Is that art eraser around the CPU for the water chiller?

Your o-ring could have twisted up on you. I know when I first laid my O-ring down, it looked it wanted to pop up in areas when I pressed down on one area of it anywhere. So I just slowly and lightly pressed all the way around it, until it looked like it kind of wanted to stay there. I know my temps are amazing so far. I’ve got my water temp locked to 60F. GPU is running 29C, and the memory t-junction is only 48C. GPU2 temp is 32C. This is while using the 1KW XOC bios. RDR2 heavy load for about 1 hour now at 500 watts. GPU hot spot says 41C. MEM 1/2/3 are all between 25-30C. I had new thermal pads for the GPU, except for the rear PCB full cover Fujipoly pad. I re-used that one again I used alcohol and a tooth brush to clean the rear PCB. I was out of thermal paste, and I had to use a tiny amount of KPX, and Kryonaut Extreme. So, I mixed them together and it turned in to some kind of purple thermal paste lol. It works really well on the die too.

I didn’t have any issues. I was afraid I was going to though, I remember @Mr. Foxmentioned to me the trouble he had. I cleaned everything up, and laid the large clear o-ring on the plexiglass, then slowly went around it with a plastic spoon pressing it in to the groove on the plexi, after it was perfect, I laid the copper block down on the o-ring. You can’t exactly see the o-ring, so you’ve gotta go by the holes to line up the copper to the plexi and slowly lower it down. Then I slowly tightened down all of the hex screws and Philips screws that hold the plexi to the copper block. After that I torqued it all down going from outside in, then to inside out. Then I heated up the block with a heat gun just a little, and checked the torque again only going finger snug on these. But triple checking a few times over again. Then I did the terminal. Two small black oval O-rings. I installed the smaller hexes first, slowly lined up the terminal and then tightened the larger hexes. I plugged all of the holes with G1/4 plug fitting putting a finger on one and suction tested the block through another and held it there for about 30 seconds. It was good to go. Filled my loop, and powered it on. Not a single leak.

No leaks from the 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper. I cleaned it up really well. It’s a little tedious reassembling and getting the seal right. And the final test for leaks is essentially firing up your PC. But, I trusted it and it was good. I used a heat gun to heat up the glue under the EVGA plastic branding so I could get to the hex screws for the terminal. It was pretty straight forward.

I did a full block tear down as well. Taking this block apart was so easy. It’s pretty again!!

3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper maintenance. I may go liquid metal this time on the die. And lap off that thick 3D raised lettering that’s on the die. We’ll see how I feel about it. This has been such a wonderful GPU. It hasn’t been opened up for well over a year.

Unfortunately it’s not that easy. You can have it enabled in bios, and see that it is enabled in GPU-Z, or in your driver. But it won’t automatically run in all applications. 3DMark, Cyberpunk 2077, RDR2. Several games don’t actually use it unless you force it via NVinspector tool. It’s kinda like forcing V-Sync on or off in the Nvidia control panel. But re-bar is not an option in the Nvidia Control Panel. Download NVinspector and enable these items. Your benchmark numbers will shoot up. And your in-game FPS.

I’ve had an incredible offer on my Kingpin Hydro Copper 3090 waterblock. So, I was gonna sell them separately and also had a really great offer on my 3090 as a Hybrid 360mm. The guy kinda led me on though. And I got a little frustrated with even dealing with it. Right now this 3090KP HC is essentially performing between a 4080 (12GB) and the 4080 (16GB) with a good OC and 1KW bios it is probably closer to the 4080 (16GB) model. I am keeping it for now. So that’s that. 😎 I took a week off work just for the new platform. Going to assemble the 13900KF, Unify-X, DDR5 build. It takes days upon days upon days to tune new systems up lol. Really I had about 105 hours vacation time I am gonna lose soon. So, no better excuse than now. I’ll have the 14th-25th off. Man, it would have been great if I could have scooped up a RTX4090 too I didn’t really have a chance to get away, and no Microcenters near me. But that’s okay, I’ll be patient. Also, yours is awesome! I actually like that chunky squared style of the Strix 4090. As for low benchmark numbers, you need to download the NVinspector tool, and force Resizable bar. You have three options you must change. This will boost a port royal score for me by about 350-400 points alone. Just google “NVinspector force rebar”

My Gigabyte 2080Ti waterforce that was pulled from an eGPU box had nylon G1/4 fittings that could be unscrewed from the AIO block.

The 4090 is so fast. That’s awesome it turned out to be a good GPU. Definitely a nice jump over the 3090 FE, and the 3090Ti.

Everyone is buying the scalper GPU’s on eBay. I’m shocked we are even doing this again. If they’d just wait for the next inventory load they would get one. I saw them in Newegg for $1,599 for several hours until they finally sold out.

I’m so disappointed in our society. They are literally buying the scalpers 4090’s on eBay… Like rinse and repeat.

Honestly, anything HEDT that is new and coming from Intel will be crazy expensive. I imagine they’ll be competing with AMD Threadripper TRX40 socket right? Which is also crazy expensive. I highly doubt it’ll be like the X299 days.

He’s gonna end up buying one for sure. I thought he’d buy a 4090 too. That thing is a beast. As for myself I really want to just buy any 4090 tomorrow, just to have one because even the entry level power is hugely fast regardless. But then I know a AIB model is gonna appear that I really really want instead. So, I’m gonna wait until every thing calms down after launch and carefully select one. Maybe a week maybe even 3 months lol. I hate when new parts come out, something inside of us makes us feel like we desperately need to buy it just because it’s new and FASTTTTT. LOL. But then reality kinda sets in, and we don’t really actually need it.. But we still want it. Just like @Mr. Fox said, we need to bury our heads. Maybe live on an island with no internet 😁

I think one of those massive 43” 4K OLED monitors, and a RTX4090 overclocked to the moon would be absolutely marvelous.

The RTX4090 is very fast. But we’ve almost reached a point where we don’t even need all that lol. It would be fun for sure. But, I play at 2560x1440P. I’m just not a fan of a 4K monitor yet. 4090 is awesome. But not needed at all. It throws down at high res though!!!

It looks like Newegg has officially sold out of the 13900K, and sold out of the 13900KF. They also changed the status from “Pre-Order” to “Recently Released” I’ve been checking it daily 🤪 I am probably gonna keep my 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper. My original thinking was passing on the RTX4090. And I think I will go back to that mind set. Also, a peak at the Z790 Dark motherboard I found online. LET THE 4090 SCALPING BEGIN!!!!

I had an opportunity to grab one from EVGA. They emailed me with a spot for the 3090Ti KP with the power supply combo. I didn’t like that I would be trapped with the AIO. Now that I think about it. The 3090Ti Kingpin is only 3 months old. It would be a shame if it went for any less honestly. Also how is fallout 76? I tried it about 2 years ago for maybe 5 minutes tops and immediately uninstalled it. It felt nothing like the normal Fallout games, Fallout 3/4. Has it changed? Maybe I should give it another chance.

@electrosoft I would sell that 3090Ti Kingpin ASAP!!!! Only (1) on eBay, and it is fetching silly money so far. Are people really this stupid? If so, take advantage of it!! 😃

Yeah it is apparently the best Z690 motherboard you can buy, the Asrock Z590 OC Formula was also abnormally good too. They make two models of the Aqua. The Z690 Aqua, and the Z690 Aqua OC. The main difference is the standard Aqua has (4) Dimms, and the Aqua OC has (2) Dimms. But the 12 layer PCB is what’s really cool, based on the research I’ve done this is beneficial in motherboards. Apparently 8000Mhz DDR5 was doable on these motherboards with Intel 12th Gen CPU. I think a 13900K would be right at home on one. I always loved a motherboard that includes a monoblock right from the factory. Asus Glacier, Aorus Waterforce, ASrock Aqua. These manufacturers have been doing this for a little while now. I just wish they were a little more affordable.

Anyone ever try one of these motherboards? I love the build and design of it. ASRock Aqua OC Z690 12 Layer PCB (2) Dimm design Very good memory overclocking ability. Unfortunately these are $800 USD is the cheapest I’ve found. It is unfortunate they are so expensive. I want one!!!!! 😭😭😭

The Z790 Dark will have a 14 layer PCB, compared to the 10 layer PCB from the Z590/Z690 Dark. I’m kind of wondering how this will change memory overclocking.

I think everyone needing a GPU, needs to buy the Intel ARC750/770 GPU. Fortunately Linus also made a video titled. “Buy Intel GPU’s” I imagine his 15 million subscriber base should help drastically with Intel’s support. Intel will eventually get there in 2-3 years, and could easily knock down Nvidia for far less money. I’m tempted to grab a 4090 on launch, but I don’t have any bites on my 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper for just $975 dollars. That kind of price is really only like $900 bucks before tax if you really think about it. It’s also only 12% slower then a RTX4080 (16)GB in Timespy extreme, only with more VRAM. Selling old hardware is very very tough!

What hardware is considered Retro? How old does it have to be?