tps3443

People would be better off building a custom loop with the price of a good AIO. It’s one of the few PC components we get to re-use over and over. These are (3) main parts radiator, pump, waterblock. All for the cost of only $161 dollars. Tubing is $1 dollar per 1ft, and fittings are like $5 each. Someone could probably build it even cheaper than that.

Same here. You can almost guarantee a waterblock for all the Strix models. And it looks greats too. Personally, I would just run it on air cooling for a while my self. Then I’d get bored and want to blast it with daily water chilling.

3 days before Intel 13900K testing. I imagine that 5.8Ghz beast couldn’t come any sooner for people rocking RTX4090’s waiting with Z690 motherboards , with any resolution for that matter. Hard to believe we are finally cpu bottlenecked with 4K. I remember almost 10 years ago when the GTX Titan was barely managing 23 fps average across titles in 4K. The resolution was trying so hard to become a mainstream thing, but it wasn’t physically possible with even the fastest GPU in the world.

Playing around with dyes. What have I done? I told my self I’d never do this again.

Another nice RTX4090 for sure. Honestly, I made it past launch. I was so close to getting a 4090 too by the time I rounded up some funds, they were sold out online, and no local stores are even near me. Micro Center is an almost 4.5 hour drive from me. The initial “Gotta have NOW” has come and gone for me. Now I feel content with my 3090 Kingpin HC again, because it is actually still crazy fast. Honestly, at this point I feel like it’s worth waiting for all of the 4090 AIB’s to settle in place and maybe even for the 4090Ti to release, it’ll be another 15-20% maybe. It looks like Nvidia saved some meat on the bone for a possible decent Ti model this go around. I personally like the Strix 4090. It has grown on me so much. Originally I hated it lol.

I thought the same thing. I saw that the scalpers are hardly making any money. They are probably making about $150-$300 on each card after that 13% in PayPal and eBay fees together. I wouldn’t even bother my self. Your driving a fairly heavy resolution, so long as your GPU does fine with it. You’ll probably be okay. What wattage bios do you run anyways? I noticed some of the less demanding games can pull the most power when we turn up all of the eye candy. I played a game with my son “Sea of Thieves” we turned up the resolution slider to 250% my 3090KP was churning right through it, and it looked so nice compared to Xbox. Then I checked and my 3090 was sucking down 630 watts of juice peak power. If I would have been on the standard 520 bios performance would have been throttled back and I would lose as much as 10+ fps. I have come across several games like this. You have that ultra wide 49” monitor right? I have drawn up a few ways I am going to run the watercooled M.2, so this will be really neat and simplistic. I’ll show you want I mean when I’m done. Also, isn’t it annoying how hot the motherboard is below the GPU? It’s like a constant 50C+. It’s kinda frustrating it’s hotter than my GPU and CPU, it’s just always under a load or strain. Especially with a EVGA Dark motherboard, but I imagine other boards are the same way. I’m going to be eliminating that heat soak issue for good lol. Last but not least if it is just the worst thing ever, I can remove it and run it under the motherboards heat sink.

Well, it’s also easy. Another item that’s worth water cooling is system ram. But it’s too expensive to do it right.

These super fast Gen4 drives can get hot. I figure why not just grab a water cooled one for a little extra. It will run super cool and generate far less heat in my system as a whole, the water is already flowing. Plus it’s really a cheap added cost. And I already have the custom loop, and it won’t take away much from flow rate if any. Sorry I’m stubborn lol. I got one, and I’m excited to give it a go. 😁

The top two M.2 SSD’s are both identical models, only the first one is watercooled, and the 2nd one is air cooled. The last SSD is a different older slower model is all. Why he is even comparing it, I have no idea lol. I just thought it was interesting how he managed to throttle that 2nd M.2 with that massive heat sink it has. Water cooling an M.2 is effective and plausible for sure. But the main thing is the cost difference is minimal if any at all. It shows the air cooled M.2 with a heat sink drop it’s write performance by half after it heats up.

The standard version with the heat sink throttles. So, I would assume the motherboard heat sink would probably throttle it as well. As for cost, it is priced equivalent to other performance 2TB Gen4 SSD’s without a waterblock. Seems like a not so bad value.

Hey everyone, I need to buy a new M.2 for my Z690 Unify-X/ 13900K build. I have decided to not re-use the Raided M.2’s that are in my Z590 Dark motherboard. Gonna leave those M.2’s alone, so I can use the system with the already installed OS. So, I am looking for a brand new M.2, something Gen4 for sure, and at least 2TB, I have come across a really decent M.2 that looks to be a great deal considering. Anyone use one of these Corsair watercooled M.2’s? It’s 2TB, gen4, water cooled, and super fast. I didn’t realize watercooling an M.2 was beneficial until I discovered they air cooled high performance Gen4 M.2’s can actually thermal throttle very easily. I figured it’s not bad for $260 bucks. Also, it doesn’t use a fin array, so no water loop flow restriction at all. I read a review or two, and the air cooled variants can run like 75C+ nearing the 80C throttle limit. And this one always runs sub 30c temps. It’s not like it’s any more expensive, and it’s actually beneficial. Any thoughts?

I heard someone say that Nvidia is boosting RTX Ampere performance by as high as 24% in games with further improvements and DX12 optimizations. I mean dang, are they sand bagging us this entire time? The 4090 is so freaking fast as it is, and with so many RTX 3000 series GPU’s for sale, they are literally enticing people to really buy them now.

Under any kind of gaming load it seems. That noise is louder than my water chiller too. Around 500+ watts of power draw it begins to screams. It stays the same pitch the whole time coming from the Power supply. Total system power is probably much higher. (2) Pumps, (10) 120mm 2K RPM fans, motherboard, GPU, CPU, (2) M.2’s, 2TB SSD, I am gonna say 850 watts maybe more. I will plug in my wall meter to check.

My EVGA 1300 P+ power supply is now screaming with coil whine so bad it sounds like an outdoor commercial bug zapper or something. My last PSU was an EVGA 1300G+, that one popped and smoked after just a few weeks of owning it. I’m really losing faith in EVGA power supplies. This coil whine is louder than my water chiller.

Hey I saw some cheap waterblocks for the Zotac RTX4090’s. Are you going to put a waterblock on there? Or are you planning to run another 4090? Is that art eraser around the CPU for the water chiller?

Your o-ring could have twisted up on you. I know when I first laid my O-ring down, it looked it wanted to pop up in areas when I pressed down on one area of it anywhere. So I just slowly and lightly pressed all the way around it, until it looked like it kind of wanted to stay there. I know my temps are amazing so far. I’ve got my water temp locked to 60F. GPU is running 29C, and the memory t-junction is only 48C. GPU2 temp is 32C. This is while using the 1KW XOC bios. RDR2 heavy load for about 1 hour now at 500 watts. GPU hot spot says 41C. MEM 1/2/3 are all between 25-30C. I had new thermal pads for the GPU, except for the rear PCB full cover Fujipoly pad. I re-used that one again I used alcohol and a tooth brush to clean the rear PCB. I was out of thermal paste, and I had to use a tiny amount of KPX, and Kryonaut Extreme. So, I mixed them together and it turned in to some kind of purple thermal paste lol. It works really well on the die too.

I didn’t have any issues. I was afraid I was going to though, I remember @Mr. Foxmentioned to me the trouble he had. I cleaned everything up, and laid the large clear o-ring on the plexiglass, then slowly went around it with a plastic spoon pressing it in to the groove on the plexi, after it was perfect, I laid the copper block down on the o-ring. You can’t exactly see the o-ring, so you’ve gotta go by the holes to line up the copper to the plexi and slowly lower it down. Then I slowly tightened down all of the hex screws and Philips screws that hold the plexi to the copper block. After that I torqued it all down going from outside in, then to inside out. Then I heated up the block with a heat gun just a little, and checked the torque again only going finger snug on these. But triple checking a few times over again. Then I did the terminal. Two small black oval O-rings. I installed the smaller hexes first, slowly lined up the terminal and then tightened the larger hexes. I plugged all of the holes with G1/4 plug fitting putting a finger on one and suction tested the block through another and held it there for about 30 seconds. It was good to go. Filled my loop, and powered it on. Not a single leak.

No leaks from the 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper. I cleaned it up really well. It’s a little tedious reassembling and getting the seal right. And the final test for leaks is essentially firing up your PC. But, I trusted it and it was good. I used a heat gun to heat up the glue under the EVGA plastic branding so I could get to the hex screws for the terminal. It was pretty straight forward.

I did a full block tear down as well. Taking this block apart was so easy. It’s pretty again!!

3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper maintenance. I may go liquid metal this time on the die. And lap off that thick 3D raised lettering that’s on the die. We’ll see how I feel about it. This has been such a wonderful GPU. It hasn’t been opened up for well over a year.

Unfortunately it’s not that easy. You can have it enabled in bios, and see that it is enabled in GPU-Z, or in your driver. But it won’t automatically run in all applications. 3DMark, Cyberpunk 2077, RDR2. Several games don’t actually use it unless you force it via NVinspector tool. It’s kinda like forcing V-Sync on or off in the Nvidia control panel. But re-bar is not an option in the Nvidia Control Panel. Download NVinspector and enable these items. Your benchmark numbers will shoot up. And your in-game FPS.

I’ve had an incredible offer on my Kingpin Hydro Copper 3090 waterblock. So, I was gonna sell them separately and also had a really great offer on my 3090 as a Hybrid 360mm. The guy kinda led me on though. And I got a little frustrated with even dealing with it. Right now this 3090KP HC is essentially performing between a 4080 (12GB) and the 4080 (16GB) with a good OC and 1KW bios it is probably closer to the 4080 (16GB) model. I am keeping it for now. So that’s that. 😎 I took a week off work just for the new platform. Going to assemble the 13900KF, Unify-X, DDR5 build. It takes days upon days upon days to tune new systems up lol. Really I had about 105 hours vacation time I am gonna lose soon. So, no better excuse than now. I’ll have the 14th-25th off. Man, it would have been great if I could have scooped up a RTX4090 too I didn’t really have a chance to get away, and no Microcenters near me. But that’s okay, I’ll be patient. Also, yours is awesome! I actually like that chunky squared style of the Strix 4090. As for low benchmark numbers, you need to download the NVinspector tool, and force Resizable bar. You have three options you must change. This will boost a port royal score for me by about 350-400 points alone. Just google “NVinspector force rebar”

My Gigabyte 2080Ti waterforce that was pulled from an eGPU box had nylon G1/4 fittings that could be unscrewed from the AIO block.

The 4090 is so fast. That’s awesome it turned out to be a good GPU. Definitely a nice jump over the 3090 FE, and the 3090Ti.

Everyone is buying the scalper GPU’s on eBay. I’m shocked we are even doing this again. If they’d just wait for the next inventory load they would get one. I saw them in Newegg for $1,599 for several hours until they finally sold out.