Mr. Fox

benching... only I don't need one for anything else other than beating my best 3090 scores. For gaming, I don't even need the 3090. I am content with the gaming performance of the 3060 Ti at this time.

It is a mistake to judge a book (or a notebook) by its cover. Small size usually means compromise and diminished capacity. Being big on the outside does not mean big on the inside, or big performance. If the guts are no better than the small turdbook it is going to run like a small turdbook. It is more than probable that the extra size will include wasted/unused space to accommodate a larger screen and keyboard, but not a more robuse motherboard or an excellent cooling system.

All laptops should ship with a protective skin like this one by default. It applies universally.

100%... Well said, Brother. Yup, each will rise to their own level of incompetence. There is not a single shred of awesome or excellent to be found.

The part that is revolutionary is the widespread celebration of lameness and mediocrity. All they need to do is say it is special for the sheeple to get excited. It doesn't matter that it is a lie because its success is derived exclusively from the ignorance of consumers.

My friends are mostly here. I have never met most of them/you. My friends that are not here are those that I like to be around when I have the luxury of choosing who I want to be around.

If you mean this... Probably not very much.

It is ironic, especially in light of the asinine 4090 prices, and particularly so considering how severely they are crippled by the NVIDIOTS; whereas the Dark is the extreme antithesis of crippled.

If you do the wrong reg tweaks that can happen. I don't think I could function without them. Some of those tweaks, and some you already have applied, you can use software like what you're already doing, only using a GUI, but many are registry tweaks.

No need to turn it upside down. I never did. Just set it directly over the AC vents (assuming you have a unit with vents blowing air vertically instead of horizontally) and use it as you normally would. This will blast freezing cold air into the laptop at probably 10 times the velocity and 200 times the volume than the laptop fans can do maxed out. A 10,000 BTU can keep a 10x10 ft room colder than most people find comfortable. So, imagine how well it can cool less than one cubic liter of laptop.

You wouldn't say that if you have actually done it. The air coming out of the vents on a good AC unit can actually cause frost and ice formation on the inside of the laptop. It doesn't have time to mix with the warm air in a room with the bottom of the laptop sitting directly on top of the vents and it can be below freezing point. When I was still benching laptops with mobile Extreme CPUs and desktop CPUs in them it would transform a 100°C throttled piece of doggy poop into something special and keep it well below normal idle temperatures with the CPU under full load. As a bonus, it keeps everything else freezing cold, too. PCH, SSDs, CPU, GPU, VRMs... the whole shebang stays frosty. Using a freezer can also work, but you have to keep lots of air moving through the radiators to stay ahead of the curve. The portable AC unit can move far more air (CFM) than chintzy laptop fans.

@ryanis in Canada, so he should have ample cold air right now. Portable AC unit is the only good way to keep a laptop cold enough for benching. I learned that from Brother @johnksssa long time ago. You place the intake vents on the bottom of it (or remove the bottom cover) directly over the AC unit with high velocity freezing cold air being force-fed into the chassis and out the radiators. You can use it year 'round and keep your office cool in the summertime. Only recently did popular guys like JayzTwoCents start using it for desktops, but it works good for a desktop as well. Just make a duct to force the cold air through the radiators or CPU/GPU air coolers and you'll see results you never dreamed possible using ambient air or ambient water cooling.

Maybe HP forgot to pay the kickback to UL/Futuremark to include your hardware ID in the SystemInfo scan so it doesn't produce fake scores like the OEMs that remembered to send a check to UL.

I posted this on Tuesday. I have had no more issues with DDR5 DIMM temperature sensors randomly disappearing from OSD or Sensor Panel on either desktop since updating to version 6.85.6329. The 4090 Suprim shipped from MSI in Fontana, CA this morning and was scheduled to arrive Monday. I am going to be out of town until Thursday evening, so I had the carrier change the delivery date to Friday. If the sample is a good one and I don't need to RMA it due to crappy silicon quality, I will order an Alphacool Eisblock Aurora waterblock for it next weekend.

UL/Futuremark: Bloatimus Maximus 3DMark has aged like fine milk.

Also look at the CPU clock, CPU temperature and CPU score on that run. Apples to oranges comparison. Everything is colder and clocked higher.

Also running artificially cold it looks like, and a fairly hefty OC for 3060 notebook. Average temperature during the run at 46°C is going to boost higher than stock cooling. https://www.3dmark.com/spy/34499294

No coincidence... they're all Blue, too. This video is more than a year old and they are even worse now. The classic definition of insanity applies here.

I've done that for years. Long before JayzTwoCents had even heard of such a thing. Works great for desktops, too. I recorded this video and uploaded it to YouTube in 2012.

You're doing something with your laptop that it was never designed for. Do you know how your benchmark scores compare to the same or like configurations? If you are ahead of the pack, you may have reached Nirvana and don't know it.

That is a thermal throttle. It is designed to do that so nothing is wrong. (Thanks, NVIDIA.) I have the same issue on the 3090 Kingpin. Only way around it for me is to run the water chiller without the radiator and give it about 30 minutes to run with the computer turned off so the water can get down to 0°C or colder. As soon as the water gets higher than about 10°C it starts losing clock speeds. Under normal thermal operating conditions, what starts off as 2235 or 2250 on core ends up landing around 2160 or 2175 average clock. That is exactly why I have not made up my mind yet. I intend to avoid using that tacky 4:1 pigtail. That is such an ugly low-cost solution.

Probably so, but the shunt-modded 3060 Ti does not need anywhere near 1200W. I think it could replace the 1600W on the benching rig and 1200W would be ample for the 4090 and 13900K. It has native ATX 3.0 and PCI-e 5.0 support that is ideal for the 4090, but the PSU itself would be better suited to the Corsair 5000D Airflow chassis that the 3060 Ti is in. It will fit better and address the lack of room in the basement of the case with the new cable orientation. What I will probably do is temporarily install the 4090 in my work computer with the PSU permanently installed for the PSU review, then after the review, put the 3060 Ti back in the work computer and put the 4090 in my benching rig that has the 1600W PSU. I have tons of unused space in the gigantic Level 20 XT aquarium, so I do not need the space-saving feature of this new PSU design in that chassis. If that's what I do, I will order a Cablemods 12VHPWR cable to replace the three 6+2 power cables feeding the 3090 KPE. I really despise those stupid short pigtail adapters that come with 4090 GPUs. Those are so stinking idiotic.

This came today. Will investigate the pros and cons after the 4090 arrives (hopefully the end of next week). Kind of sucks that I received an Amazon notification to preorder a Zotac 4090 AMP Extreme today for $100 less than the Suprim Liquid X. I almost ordered it and canceled the Suprim, but decided not to complicate things to save $100. But, I wanted the AMP more from the start. Seems like out of all the better 4090 models the AMP owners have less to gripe about overall... but, that's an anecdotal observation based on the idiosyncracies of the internet that nobody should rely on.

I can vaguely remember hearing there were issues with the most current Catalyst drivers. Have you tried more than one driver version? The power limit can be as high at 1000W (Galax vBIOS) but you will be limited by voltage, so the power utilization won't go any higher that the corresponding available voltage allows. The problem might be the overclock is just too high for the available voltage. Not sure since I don't know all the details, just sharing my thoughts on possibilities. Should be here next Friday. It was a pre-order on Amazon and has not shipped yet. Those old gigantic Caselab cases are amazing. I always wanted one, but didn't want to pay the price needed to buy one.