Official Clevo X170SM-G Thread

[Pfudaniel]

1 hour ago, Bidelloman said:

So, I re installed my 2080s because I wanted to test if it still worked. I cleaned it beforehand with alcohol, let it dry etc. When I put it back I did put the heatsink and fans but not all the screws or the paste ( gpu side).

 

After some boot attempts I heard boiling, so closed the pc immediately, re opened it immediately and saw bubbles of "water" ( could not have been since I used alcohol only), and a smell as if something was cooking.

 

Now, the pc works with the 3080, I tested it afterwards and everything is fine, however I cannot boot the 2080s it seems.

At inspection, the gpu is fine, there is nothing (even under lens) that would suggest short circuits, broken connectors, burned bus or anything, but there is something else: when I first removed the 2080s for cleaning, I am fairly certain a small amount of liquid metal went under one of the vram chips, and I made my best efforts to remove and clean everything before doing this attempt.

I also cleared cmos battery to prevent issues with gpu swapping.

 

Do you think my gpu is dead? Is there any way to test it elsewhere that does not involve risking my main and only pc?

 

Oef thats a tough one! No paste, might have cooked it! U can measure the coils in ohms mode with multimeter and send me a picture of measurements. Pm it to me, i actually repair laptops for a living 😅

[Bidelloman]

13 minutes ago, Pfudaniel said:

Oef thats a tough one! No paste, might have cooked it! U can measure the coils in ohms mode with multimeter and send me a picture of measurements. Pm it to me, i actually repair laptops for a living 😅

no no, the paste was just at heatsink's side, and i used only the battery, it wasn't connected to the wall, we're talking seconds of activity anyway..  I think it was residual alcohol that simply evaporated, smell was plasticy ish tho, regardless, there is no visible damage anywhere

[Bidelloman]

On 5/14/2024 at 3:40 AM, Clamibot said:

 

From what I remember hearing, the RTX 3080 is about a 15% performance uplift over the RTX 2080 Super and draws significantly less power. I can't confirm that though as I don't have that GPU on hand. It'd be nice to see someone shunt mod the 3080 and really open it up though.

I can confirm the 3080, even without g sync or dynamic boost, is much better than the 2080s ( not talking 40 to 50fps ofc, but still noticeable) at a much less wattage cost ( thus far never seen over 320w combined system)

Personal experience in all the 3 last tomb raider games and witcher 3, the latter of which struggled a lot especially memory-wise during rtx, while the 3080 handles it with ease.

Temps top at 70C Hotstpot and not even 63C on core (Cpu is 10600k with a -94mv undervolt, performance profile, sits around 78 to 82 on some cores tops), however I'm using the stock fan control which isn't very customizable, I do own obsidian's old fan control app but it doesn't always behave correctly especially during opposite spinning and it has a continous connection for the remote control which you cannot block unless you want a warning appearing every 5 seconds

[MaxxD]

22 minutes ago, Bidelloman said:

I can confirm the 3080, even without g sync or dynamic boost, is much better than the 2080s ( not talking 40 to 50fps ofc, but still noticeable) at a much less wattage cost ( thus far never seen over 320w combined system)

Personal experience in all the 3 last tomb raider games and witcher 3, the latter of which struggled a lot especially memory-wise during rtx, while the 3080 handles it with ease.

Temps top at 70C Hotstpot and not even 63C on core (Cpu is 10600k with a -94mv undervolt, performance profile, sits around 78 to 82 on some cores tops), however I'm using the stock fan control which isn't very customizable, I do own obsidian's old fan control app but it doesn't always behave correctly especially during opposite spinning and it has a continous connection for the remote control which you cannot block unless you want a warning appearing every 5 seconds

 

Then it's perfectly good and worth the upgrade to 3080. I read this, thank you! 👏

 

Although the 2080 Super will be suitable for many years, it will have to make up to a maximum of minor compromises later. ☺

[Clamibot]

10 hours ago, Bidelloman said:

I can confirm the 3080, even without g sync or dynamic boost, is much better than the 2080s ( not talking 40 to 50fps ofc, but still noticeable) at a much less wattage cost ( thus far never seen over 320w combined system)

Personal experience in all the 3 last tomb raider games and witcher 3, the latter of which struggled a lot especially memory-wise during rtx, while the 3080 handles it with ease.

Temps top at 70C Hotstpot and not even 63C on core (Cpu is 10600k with a -94mv undervolt, performance profile, sits around 78 to 82 on some cores tops), however I'm using the stock fan control which isn't very customizable, I do own obsidian's old fan control app but it doesn't always behave correctly especially during opposite spinning and it has a continous connection for the remote control which you cannot block unless you want a warning appearing every 5 seconds

Nice, sounds like a worthy upgrade then. I bet that lower power cost on the GPU side is great if you have it paired with an 11900K as you could really open up both the CPU and GPU at the same time in that case.

[Bidelloman]

4 minutes ago, Clamibot said:

Nice, sounds like a worthy upgrade then. I bet that lower power cost on the GPU side is great if you have it paired with an 11900K as you could really open up both the CPU and GPU at the same time in that case.

Having an SM-G, it would be 10900k, but yeah

[Bidelloman]

Could it be related to the janky gpu driver install (3080 in an sm-g without prema bios) that I cannot wake the pc up from sleep? ( black screen. Also battling with windows installing dptf over and over)

 

I answer my own question: yes, it is indeed related to botched gpu driver installs:

 

 

you can use nv clean install and edit the inf file required by using your gpu hardware ID, then replace it in the temp folder where the program stores the files. Then you reboot into driver certification disabled state (7 in the menu for safe mode reboots) and proceed with the normal installation.

This fixes issues with sleep or nomenclature in programs, you still do not have gsync or dynamic boost however

 

[Bidelloman]

So I resorted back to obsidian's fan control app since I purchased a copy years ago- Problem is, obsidian went out of business and i have an app with remote control through Ip that makes a ton of outbound connections

if I stop it through firewalls ( portmaster or windows firewall) the app complains every 5 seconds.

 

I do not want a old app making connections to out of date and disregarded services and most unfortunately I found no decent alternative to this fan control ( can unify load/temp logic and do other things).

 

Is there a way I can block this app's internet connection without it being any the wiser?

[1610ftw]

4 hours ago, Bidelloman said:

So I resorted back to obsidian's fan control app since I purchased a copy years ago- Problem is, obsidian went out of business and i have an app with remote control through Ip that makes a ton of outbound connections

if I stop it through firewalls ( portmaster or windows firewall) the app complains every 5 seconds.

 

I do not want a old app making connections to out of date and disregarded services and most unfortunately I found no decent alternative to this fan control ( can unify load/temp logic and do other things).

 

Is there a way I can block this app's internet connection without it being any the wiser?

 

Just use Clevo Fan Control, it is decent enough when you only have two fans, discussed in this thread:

I talk about it a little in the last post, here is a screenshot:

 

 

I have found that with the bottom cover attached I usually gravitate to the Min 30% on AC setting as it is the minimum that still allows good temps.

 

Without the bottom cover less is possible and this is what I currently use as it lowers my SSD temps by up to 25C.

 

 

 

[Bidelloman]

4 minutes ago, 1610ftw said:

 

Just use Clevo Fan Control, it is decent enough when you only have two fans, discussed in this thread:

I talk about it a little in the last post, here is a screenshot:

 

 

I have found that with the bottom cover attached I usually gravitate to the Min 30% on AC setting as it is the minimum that still allows good temps.

 

Without the bottom cover less is possible and this is what I currently use as it lowers my SSD temps by up to 25C.

 

 

 

I tried those already, which is why I mentioned it in my post I wasn't fond of them for some features they lack, unless I missed them ( yes I learned of those fan controls from that thread)

[1610ftw]

Whatever is missing it seems to be the best of the rest and what is most important for me is that at least here it runs stable and does not cause any issues which I cannot say about CCC, Obsidian or RLEC viewer that all gave me trouble sooner or later. And that is not even taking into account that CCC is also a hideous monstrosity.

 

 

[Bidelloman]

45 minutes ago, 1610ftw said:

Whatever is missing it seems to be the best of the rest and what is most important for me is that at least here it runs stable and does not cause any issues which I cannot say about CCC, Obsidian or RLEC viewer that all gave me trouble sooner or later. And that is not even taking into account that CCC is also a hideous monstrosity.

 

 

Agreed on ccc. I only keep the power modes ( performance, power saving etc), rest I uninstalled thanks to revo, and both xtu and the damn intel Dptf have been banned to the shadow realm.

Obisidan caused you issues? Weird. Have been using it for years and apart from these connections for remote control, I never had problems. Unless you count deleting clevoservice everytime you do bios updates and/or open up the pc.

[1610ftw]

42 minutes ago, Bidelloman said:

Agreed on ccc. I only keep the power modes ( performance, power saving etc), rest I uninstalled thanks to revo, and both xtu and the damn intel Dptf have been banned to the shadow realm.

Obisidan caused you issues? Weird. Have been using it for years and apart from these connections for remote control, I never had problems. Unless you count deleting clevoservice everytime you do bios updates and/or open up the pc.

 

Same here, no XTU for me and CCC is for now gone completely.

 

I only tried the free version of the Obsidian software and it intermittently stopped working when in maximum fan mode and would revert to auto mode.

 

At the time it was not possible to try the full fledged version and even then people (not you) reported issues with the X170 series so I did not want to spend the money and needless to say it was not much longer until Obsidian went out of business.

 

With Clevo Fan Control things have been very relaxed and I even ported over my system SSD to another X170 without any issues except of course for my Windows registration. Very nice and no issue at all that very important hardware (chipset, CPU and GPU) changed - very nice.

 

 

[MaxxD]

For me, the Obsidian (full version) works perfectly. Sometimes I have a problem with it, the GPU temperature display is usually disturbed and after a nV driver update it is no longer a problem.

[Bidelloman]

one downside, at least for me, of swapping to the 3080, crashes (black screen) after sleep, windows 10:

[Bidelloman]

I need some assistance. I flashed the xmg EC and Bios both of which did not create booting issues, then used dsanke's unlocker and now it won't POST anymore, fans and lights go on, then boot loops.

I tried removing the cmos battery for 5 minutes but it did not solve it. Is there any solution to this? Thanks

[runix18]

46 minutes ago, Bidelloman said:

I need some assistance. I flashed the xmg EC and Bios both of which did not create booting issues, then used dsanke's unlocker and now it won't POST anymore, fans and lights go on, then boot loops.

I tried removing the cmos battery for 5 minutes but it did not solve it. Is there any solution to this? Thanks

Flashing with a SPI programmer.

[Bidelloman]

33 minutes ago, runix18 said:

Flashing with a SPI programmer.

Yeah I do not have one...and gotta learn how to use it, if there are tutorials..

Still thanks

 

https://www.amazon.it/TECNOIOT-CH341A-Programmer-Software-Adapter/dp/B07RKXSMKH

 

Would this one here work?

Edited May 22 by Bidelloman

[1610ftw]

5 hours ago, Bidelloman said:

I need some assistance. I flashed the xmg EC and Bios both of which did not create booting issues, then used dsanke's unlocker and now it won't POST anymore, fans and lights go on, then boot loops.

I tried removing the cmos battery for 5 minutes but it did not solve it. Is there any solution to this? Thanks

 

Obviously too late now but the XMG bios will be good enough for:

 

155W GPU and 170W CPU in combined use

128GB memory @3200 with relaxed timings

 

and overall very stable operation.

 

Of course we always like to push things but taking apart the x170 isn't that much fun and if you want to continue to try a few things with the bios you may want to think about a cutout in order to be able to reach the bios chip the next time around.

 

 

[Bidelloman]

19 minutes ago, 1610ftw said:

 

Obviously too late now but the XMG bios will be good enough for:

 

155W GPU and 170W CPU in combined use

128GB memory @3200 with relaxed timings

 

and overall very stable operation.

 

Of course we always like to push things but taking apart the x170 isn't that much fun and if you want to continue to try a few things with the bios you may want to think about a cutout in order to be able to reach the bios chip the next time around.

 

 

For some reason I thought it would have been fine as I apparently mistakenly remember doing it in the past and it was fine. Clearly not.

Xmg bios does not give access to xmp if I remember?

I bought a ch341a programmer which is due tomorrow morning, I watched some videos on how to use it, does not seem hard. I just need a bios dump, not sure in which format.

 

As for taking it apart I have already done it, I just need to remove that black bar somehow. Removed 2 screws from it already but it is still there.

[1610ftw]

10 minutes ago, Bidelloman said:

For some reason I thought it would have been fine as I apparently mistakenly remember doing it in the past and it was fine. Clearly not.

Xmg bios does not give access to xmp if I remember?

I bought a ch341a programmer which is due tomorrow morning, I watched some videos on how to use it, does not seem hard. I just need a bios dump, not sure in which format.

 

As for taking it apart I have already done it, I just need to remove that black bar somehow. Removed 2 screws from it already but it is still there.

 

I think it was really also bad luck involved, this does not always happen.

Regarding the black bar, have you checked the post by @win32asmguy about taking his unit apart?

[Bidelloman]

6 minutes ago, 1610ftw said:

 

I think it was really also bad luck involved, this does not always happen.

Regarding the black bar, have you checked the post by @win32asmguy about taking his unit apart?

No I haven't. I used an old video from dave something on yt. Gotta find this post!

[win32asmguy]

32 minutes ago, Bidelloman said:

No I haven't. I used an old video from dave something on yt. Gotta find this post!

 

You have to remove the screen lid to get to that plastic cover. Then break a chunk out of it so you can easily clip to the chip in the future:

 

 

 

[Bidelloman]

did it, finally. My pc is back in the game, the SPI flash went through well, though it took a while to find a program (and clips) that would work

[MaxxD]

I assigned such an extra fan party to the water block. Whoever used this has a good opinion? Better than factory fans?