tps3443

I think my ram sucks… And I’m ready to toss it. I can make it 5 minutes on Anta777 Extreme with my (2x24GB) 7200 sticks while @ 8800C40. Im sending lots of voltage. The more voltage I send the longer it runs the test. 🤣 My CPU IMC seems to be happy with it, but this is seriously feeling like a ram limitation. I want some of those 8400 sticks. I bet they could do 8800 TM5 stable.

Nice, was that like a free rental? 😂 that’s pretty smart actually. I want to be like you, and do this too. The depreciation makes me have nightmares on such expensive laptops!

These blocks are so good too! Man, I wonder if you could take that plate off the one and 3D print a plastic replica lol. Or maybe get some thin steel and make one. I would file a claim either way, but definitely try to make them work. They are worth it!

That guy at supercool has always been bad with communication. I am going to guess and say they are on the way, and he’s just not responding because he does that lol. But, there may be some people in the US who have some spares. I know of a few people on overclock forums who ordered double for backup parts. They may come off a backplate and (3) screws. I would post something in the DDR5 overclocking thread on overclock forums, and in the ROG Z790 forums. Most all of these guys are running Supercool blocks. And I remember seeing a few order two sets.

It really was a tricky setup adding the tank, and that’s a nifty setup you’ve got, some of your tips you did would have work so well in my exact application lol. I did want to mention this though. Sometimes it can be assembled and have no issues at all, and we won’t have pressure in the tank. It makes me want to tear my entire loop apart, order 25ft of tubing, and start the heck over from scratch 🤣 This pics below are of a kid’s setup that I helped build his first custom loop ever. From ordering the best parts, to assembly. He has no air at all that reaches his tank. And his tank is totally air tight, without pressurizing. His desktop PC is only water chilling the cpu/ram only. It uses (2) Eheim 1260 pumps, your exact A Customs 5 gallon tank, and a JBJ 1/3HP 4,000BTU chiller sitting below the tank. His setup is a Z790 Dark with a 13700K on Supercool Direct die Gen12, he has Supercool DDR5 blocks on his ram as well.

Wait, so all that work I did removing those stock heatspreaders and that adhesive on my current set, I have to do again?

Apex Encore shipped.

I guess I’ll ride out on Z790/13900KS for a while. It’s really just so fast… Honestly, our typical CPU’s are ridiculously powerful. I remember when I had my 7980XE@5Ghz which was such a beast, then I moved to a lesser but more practical 10900K. It was a massive trade off, and I lost enough multithreaded performance where I could no longer run VR, and games simultaneously on the 10900K/11900K. But, we are at a point where mainstream chips smash that 5Ghz 18/36 core behemoth, and they can actually do these heavy multitask things easily. This makes me think that Z790 platform and 13900K/KS is gonna be super practical for a very long time. And it may even turn in to the long term gaming king like 10900K was and is.

It was $695 after 7.75% sales tax. But I opted for faster shipping which added another $13. The free Newegg shipping for me, is the absolute worst! Newegg knows people are impatient, and they know we don’t wanna wait 4-7 days for their super slowver shipping option 😂

I pre-ordered that Encore, so I would have time to think on it until the 10/20 release. And they just texted me and said it’s already in packaging 🤷‍♂️

The new Z790 Apex Encore is on Newegg for $649.99.

Big difference in the 5.8Ghz VID’s and 5.4Ghz, that is gonna reflect in real world. The biggest difference is E-Cores. You’re lucky because those make the largest difference in multithreaded. You will easily run all those at 4.8 without jumping off a cliff with voltage and heat. My current chip needs LOTS of extra juice to push 4.8E. I’d be curious to see how the ring is too. My ring sucks on my KS 🤣 it’s 5.0Ghz and that’s IT! 5.1 ring will lock up on me 🙃

Here is the issue I am having. https://youtu.be/Hmkt-DMrJcw?si=QIDCQl9ZGrhmrGD8

@Mr. Fox it really is a lot of air that accumulates after just 1.5 hours lol, if it was just a little I would not bother.. The only thing that’s different is my inlet pushing water back in to my tank is not submerged so my tank sounds like a gold fish pond, but my outlet pumping water out of the tank and in to my PC is always submerged. My water tank is slightly lower than my water chiller. Do you think the outlet not being submerged could be causing problem? The tank is open and not sealed. When I shake my chiller it will totally air up the whole 1-2Ft of water tubing. And it keeps on pushing air from my chiller while shaking/tilting the chiller. Then it stops and slows down. And re-builds after another 1-2 hours. The pump noises are the most annoying though. I had the same problem when the tank was sitting on my desk, and it was well above the chiller then. Seeing the tiny air bubbles in my water block only made me think that was where it’s coming from. But I leak tested my block really well without the QD3’s. So it could possibly be the QD3’s. I have torn apart and reassembled every pump and re-leak tested every block. Only think I did not test were my (2-3) 45 degree fittings, I should have left those and capped them. I also have been clipped off each 1” of tubing for a fresh tube to fitting connection just to make sure the tubes are not loose. It really is tough finding this leak that doesn’t leak 🤣 EDIT: (I am tilting the tank so my back to tank inlet is submerged, and ai am gonna see if my chiller still fills with air)

This pump has a built in flow meter and temp sensor. But, it’s just a hassle to calibrate it properly. (1) You need specific Aqua Computer coolant for the flow sensor to work, or you could maybe mix something up that would be consistent to make the sensor read my water. (2) You can only have this (1) pump running during calibration process, that’s not exactly possible. This one pump can’t even turn water in my loop, as the calibration process drops to 0% then slowly moves up during calibration lol. (3) You are supposed to pinch off/block flow during calibration and release the tube after it’s done? Why would I do this 😂 (4) Water temp needs to be 33C or higher for proper calibration to work. (Not gonna happen) So, it pumps and it tells me my water temp. I’m okay with that. I’ve got a mechanical flow sensor on the way that I will piggy back off of the pump and run on its own tube, and the flow rate from the sensor will display on the pump but it will be an accurate reading from a mechanical sensor. It also seems less powerful than my brand new VPP655T. That it replaced. Power usage shows 19.5 watts from the pump. I’m still struggling with my loop. Air is getting in somehow. I have leak tested my pumps, my blocks, and I took apart my supercool. The only thing I can think of is maybe my Koolance QD3’s are introducing air in through the cpu block and it’s slowly filling up air in my system. I already tore down my supercool tonight and leak tested it on both sides and it is 100%. The air slowly builds in the chiller tank, and I have to shake it out in to my reservoir. I can see teeny tiny air bubbles in my supercool block so I think it may be coming from my QD3’s. I also took them off and put some o ring grease and put them back on.

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all I need it for, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C to calibrate and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work, and you have to pinch a line to calibrate the pump as well. Any other coolant may not work..🤣 I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂 EDIT: I got the software working, but I don’t think the virtual flow will work with my water type and water temp.

@Papusan My D5 Next says 0 L flow rate. How do I make it work? I got it all set up.

Pump is here D5 Next. Great deal for $115.

My loop is still sucking air in. I have taken apart every pump reassembled with O-Ring grease on the G1/4 plug seals and the pump seals. I’m going to check the super cool, it has a few small bubbles in it.

Yep, for sure. This happen day 1 of tank setup, I was just thankful it stopped at a pump, and did not reach my GPU/CPU/RAM and force a leak, I was so mad when this happen lol. I popped a hole in that inlet cover where a 1.5” threaded plug can go, some of the threaded holes are sealed off with a thin plastic layer from the factory, so they are closed, and opening them is optional, you’ll see what I mean, and you gotta punch them out. This hole allowed it to breathe and let the air out of the tank. Anyways, I hope I found the leak. I replaced the fittings on one of the pumps, and cut new tubing for it. I think it was the suspect. But, I’ll have to go through them all. I also put the tank under my desk. Better insulation for sure. I run a pump on both sides of my tank, and both sides of chiller. This method works so well. It makes that chiller cool down QUICK. That’s the most important thing really, the other parts don’t really matter.

It’s really annoying, before it was actually pressurizing the tank, so much in fact that is caused my other D5 to push and leak water through the actual pump ring seal 🤣 that is a tremendous amount of pressure, the tank was turning in to a giant foot ball with rounded corners, it was gonna blow the house up, then I decided to leave the fill port open, problem solved, but now air is still slowly pulling in the loop some how 🤣. Anyways, thanks! I will check the pump inlet fittings.

The 10ga tank is almost all the way full, and the fill port is always open. So air can continuously bleed and repeat. It’s never ending lol. So, I’m not adding water. Just noticing that I always have air in my loop. I can work all of the air out but it eventually returns. It feels like something is sucking air in. One of my pumps does sound a little bubbly at times, even after getting all the air out of the system, I have a feeling it’s sucking air in to the loop from a pump, but no leaking water.

Awesome. I’m gonna add these last few bits to my loop and be done for a while, lol. I wanted to ask if you have ever had re-accumulating air in a loop before? I have some air that is trapped in my chillers internal tank, I will move the chiller around and the air is immediately bled off through a pump and in to and out of my big water tank. However, the air returns after 1 day. I have no bubbles in my lines or blocks. No leaks or anything. Is it possible a leaking pump/part/fitting seal/O-Ring could pull air in to the system without exhibiting signs of a water leak? Im confused why this air keeps returning. I’m going straight from chiller/pump/tank/ air exits fill port. I shake and check the entire system for air. NONE. And it will return after some hours.

Flow rate with chiller and tank are totally different. You can keep adding D5’s and your load in a game chilled water temp will be lower and easier to manage. It ain’t gonna reduce your cpu temps. But, it will increase how effectively your chiller can cool, how fast it can cool, and most importantly what water temp it can sustain forever, and how much wattage it can cool without a climbing water temp. (3) D5’s is not enough. I think (5) would do it though. Slow flow or too low head pressure causes chillers to run and run and run.

@Papusan I just did some more research and the flow meter in the D5 next is a virtual flow meter 😞 my VPP755 V3’s that I was using before have these too. But, I don’t think they are an accurate measurement. It’s just a guess based on RPM of the pump, it doesn’t account for other pumps, restrictions of the water or anything. It also has a hook up for an external mechanical flow meter though which is nice. Maybe you know more about it, I am not that confident in a virtual flow meter though. But Maybe I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️ I am going to grab this as well. It’s Aqua computers completely stripped down uglier flow meter lol, but it’s fully compatible with the D5 Next, and plugs right in to it. Most of all it is very very accurate, and I will have my real mechanical water flow read right on the pump and in HWINFO. (That’s what I want 🙂) https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3951&language=en