tps3443

$36 bucks is amazing. Not gonna find that deal again though lol. Anyways, yeah if I had a regular water loop I would not worry with so many pumps. However, a 1/2HP waterchiller, and a 38 liter water tank, these systems are designed for BIG BIG FLOW RATES. Preferably (2-3) Eheim 1260’s. These pumps are capable of 10M+ of head pressure each. If I had normal loop, I’d just run 2 D5’s and be happy. But, I’ve got about 11+ gallons of water combined 😂 that needs to have lots of pressure everywhere. If I unplug just (1) D5, my chiller loses about 200 watts of continuous cooling power. I have not seen a plateau just yet, every time I improve my flow or add a pump, I see some improvements in how easily my chiller can cool things down.

Okay, yeah I was mainly after just tons of water pressure and good flow rate. But now I really just want to know my flow rate. I’ll probably just add this one and stick to 4 pumps.

That is some serious flow! How many pumps? I don’t know what mine is 😞 I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.

I was gonna grab one, but the D5 NEXT sold me. It’s a pump and flow meter combined 😱. 🙂 for $115 it’s hard to pass up. It’ll be here tomorrow. @Papusan I have always wanted one forever now, but the prices were always something crazy like $190 or $250 and usually sold out, when I saw this one for $128 and another 10% off of that for $115 USD, I could not pass it up. does the flow rate register properly for the entire loop? I assume it would. What is your flow rate?

@Mr. Fox I was gonna buy a flow meter. I have been wanting one forever now. So, I’m looking at the Aqua Computer Next RGB flow meter that measures flow rate, it measures water temp, and it measures water quality AKA: how much metal is in the water etc, or when it’s time to change that EARL 😂 kinda like a car does lol. Well, that Aqua Computer NEXT flow sensor only is $111 dollars. (😭 Very Very expensive) Anyways, I was browsing Titan Rig, and I found the Aqua Computer D5 NEXT pump with the same flow sensor attached to the pump housing with a D5 pump included for $115 with the 10% off coupon 🤣 (Why the heck not! I get a flow sensor, and a full power D5 pump attached to it for $4 more dollars🤯) (I’ll TAKE IT) 🙂 Only 1 was left in-stock. But, I would definitely grab grab one of these when they come back in-stock. You can add a pump, and remove your flow meter that could potentially restrict flow rate. What a deal!

My GPU is right at exactly 5lbs on a scale with no water in it. It’s super heavy. Fortunately it has laid vertical all this time. The rear thermal pad under the backplate added like 6-7 ounces to its weight 🤣

I just passed 85 hours in Starfield on my save game! This game has been an absolute blast. So much left to do. @johnksss Have you played this one a lot? Enjoying it?

MOOOORE PUMPAZZZZZ please!!! Yes I will take more Pumps!!! I will fill every mounting hole on my test bench with pumps 🤣 My temps are just stupid. 23C@400watts@2,205 with zero fans? Yes please! My CPU runs 61C max at 6.1P/4.8E/5.0R in R23 (380 watts) Right now I am running (3) full power D5’s after removing my VPP755 and EKWB 300MM D5. However, I will be adding both VPP755’s to a Dual top for (5) D5’s in total. Should be around 20+ meters of head pressure for some water pumping MADNESS 🙂

The 4080Ti would be sweet! I hope Nvidia makes it almost a full power 4090. They may as well for $1,200 dollars. They should not cut vram at all.

Things are so expensive nowadays. I love buying small bits here and there for my PC, Mostly watercooling stuff when I can afford it. But, most of the time I’m pinching pennie’s 😂 when I buy these things. But I know what you mean.

The Assassins Creed Mirage is on Ubisoft Connect, and the game is easy to run, you shouldn’t have any trouble.

The new Assassins Creed Mirage is easier to run than the old one!!! 🤯And, it has DLSS, and looks better. But it’s butter smooth. I have both titles. This new one that just launched runs like a beast! My 1% lows are 105FPS at 4K Ultra graphics and DLSS quality. And I stay locked on 117FPS limit 95% of the time. Makes no sense at all. Anyone try it yet? It runs amazing!

I found a IHS covered in Liquid Metal to use on my 13900KS so I could sell it, I lost the original IHS somewhere. So I used Flitz polish to remove all of the LM on this 13th gen Rockitcool copper IHS, this is how the IHS looks now lol. No sanding at all! Just a towel and Flitz. 😱

I’ve got this 13900KS screaming! And, it’s only using 380 watts during Cinebench R23. I pulled this CPU again tonight and, sure enough my direct die cold plate was clogged. (This always happens when I go messing around with tubing etc, and adding new things to my loop) Anyways, 63C MAX package temps @6.1P/4.8E/5.0R is really good for a below average 13900KS.

Looks like when I do eventually upgrade my 3090KP HC, I’ll be grabbing an AMD GPU. They offer good support for their prior gen stuff which is great. I haven’t owned an AMD GPU since RX480.

Once I buy a home and stop renting, I would like to install an outdoor commercial grade penguin chiller outside of my office window. (Or right beside the home A/C unit) it’ll look like it belongs there. I would route Eheim 1260/1262 pumps all wired to wireless key fobs for quick power on/off for the waterflow inlet and outlet, which will be going to quick disconnects to my office floor. This whole setup would actually be an easy install, and maybe $5,000ish bucks (I know that’s expensive, but it would be a worthy investment for a lifetime of reliable cooling lol). I would use thin insulated PVC piping under the house. This would be a setup that would last years and years and years. And you’d never hear or even look at the system. As for a storage tank, I would use a 25 gallon tank which would be under the home, and very well insulated. I would probably use 6 Eheim 1262’s in series.

The fridge idea is very cool, but a refrigerator can only cool a dead item. Like a bottle of soda, it doesn’t produce heat so it can cool it down and keep it there. Refrigerators cannot cool down heated water or items with a load on them, or something working against it. You would have to use the chiller to cool that 5 gallons. But the chiller would run a lot less! The colder the water is, the less it runs when you have a buffer tank lol. Which is the opposite when it doesn’t have a tank. They run more the colder they are. It’s awesome! The Mini-Fridge would still be great to hold the 5 gallons because it would insulate the water perfectly from ambient heat etc. So, the water would essentially keep the fridge cold and everything nice and cold. They are super expensive here too. Especially now, they have gone up so much in price. Any decent 1/2HP chiller with no pumps is gonna be $700-$900 USD, then tax and shipping on top of that. 1HP chiller is double that. That Alphacool has built in pumps, built in power supply, and built in reservoir with fill caps etc (Lots of extras), so $1300 is not too bad. It’s about normal really.

Okay, guys !!! I don’t know how I got here with my cooling system. This all started with a 240AIO that was “Expandable” Well well, I definitely expanded it. Anyways, a chiller buffer tank is a MUST!!! My chiller barely cycles when just using windows and working. And, during gaming my GPU/CPU/Memory always stays the same temp! Even if my chiller reads 58F or if it reads 64F my GPU temp is always the same!!! It is crazy. My loop holds a whopping 11+ gallons. And it’s a monster. I have some adjusting that I need to make. I am getting rid of the D5 pump 300mm reservoir combo. And I am gonna use my big tank as the only reservoir with a 1.5” fill cap. I’ll replace the pump/res combo with a dual D5 pump top

I’m going to try and develop a legit stable memory profile with high speeds and tight timings. The one I have now is awesome though 8000c34, and it’s a good start but it’s still only DDR5 8000, makes me think 8000c32 is possible though. I’m going to start pushing the speeds and get it even better. It’s crazy how memory can spit errors out over something dumb, like one single timing being 8 instead of 10 lol. Or not working up slowly in memory training, or not starting from scratch. But, once you get a 100% stable profile, it’s absolutely stable no matter what. I can run DDR5 8800 daily, but the timings are crap, and I need to actually put in the time and work to develop a real stable 8800 profile for my system that performs the way it should. I have been too lazy lol. Anyways, I’m glad they responded so quickly at Supercool. These memory waterblocks are amazing. I love mine. I can actually do real stability testing with no worry over temp induced errors. My 10 gallon water tank is out for delivery. I’m excited to hook that big thing up, and have stable water temps even during chiller cycles.

This is a great DDR5 8000.C34 memory profile to start with @Mr. Fox this is legit HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY stable too. I ran Anta777Extreme for nearly 2 hours with no errors on the first try.

It looks like you have all (4) O-Rings in the top block in the picture. Unless I am missing something here. Someone I know said to message him on Facebook directly. He also responds quickly in the YouTube comments too.

Uh oh! Looks like you are missing a back plate, and (3) screws. That’s a screw up on Supercools behalf there @Mr. Fox. That really sucks too. I would post a comment on the YouTube video, and send him a message as well. On your first pic I missed that completely.. Are you missing the (3) screws on the inside as well that hold the back plate on?

Yeah, mine are pretty well covered with these supercool spreaders. You’d only see RGB if you looked inside of them through the side hole. And it actually looks kinda cool. Because it’s hidden RGB. I want to try some of those 25.0W/mk pads. Or maybe even just some 20W/mk pads. I’d be curious to see if there’s an improvement on a GPU, or if I’m just wasting my time.

Yeah, I think the kit is really great that water actually channels over the IC’s. When I first got these I thought water would cool both sides of the DDR5. But, since it’s for single sided DDR5 it really doesn’t make since to do so. And it makes perfect sense for our DDR5 to only be cooled on one side, since essentially the back side is blank on our rams, and it only gets/needs a thin back plate, kind of like a GPU would have lol. Anyways, I’m going to re-mount mine and user higher quality 0.5MM thermal pads. Not that’s it’s needed, but I have to tear things down again anyways for re-doing my loop.

Hey, your pic is correct! And here is a video that will help @Mr. Fox Yes the foam pad goes against the back of the blank side memory PCB. I would not peel off of the sticky tape either, if you do you won’t be able to slide the modules forward backward to line up with the dimms when you go to insert it as 1 whole piece. Your pic is the proper layout though. You can take everything apart to assemble, it’s very easy to reassemble too. You really only have to unscrew the waterblock top screws on one module, and the 3 screws for each of their back plates and you will have access to everything. Put 0.5mm pad on each IC, and 1.0MM pad on the PMIC, then line the inner memory stick up with the memory waterblockblock (same amount sticking out on each side), or as best as you can, then tighten the 3 screws on the inner stick backplate. Then mount your outer stick and line it up with the already mounted memory stick exactly. Then tighten that ones back plate on too. My temps were identical Dimm1/Dimm2 on air cooling without watercooling hooked up. Once I added water cooling I got a deviation between their temps by about 3.5C. Not sure why. Still, they run stupid cold lol.