tps3443

I believe it’s worth it buying a good chip and paying more than MSRP if it’s a really really top chip that offers what you want/need it is definitely okay doing this, It is also important to accept that your chip isn’t the best in the world lol. Most who sell golden chips have more than 1 golden chip because they’ve tested 50 or 100+ chips. They will obviously keep the very very best chip for themselves, and yeah it really sucks paying all that money for 2nd or even 3rd, but it saves you on the let down later, but when you’re after something specific what can we do? It’s difficult to buy 100+ chips our self and test them all this would be north of $55,000 USD all for a silly cpu. Finding that 2nd best or 3rd best or even worse is so rare already and very acceptable to me. It’s sad opening a new CPU only to see its IMC is a MCSP65 🤣 (Some dude got a MCSP55 once with a 14900K) I also know another guy who bought (3) 14900K’s, and (2) of them were P-SP117’s. It’s unknown what we get. I just want a decent chip that’ll stretch up to these numbers without struggling to do it. I find it hilarious that even just a (14900K) SP103 is like a total beast of a chip though. So being able to pay for something’s that has those super low VID’s and has a really good IMC its always the easier route. Check out Sugi’s friends binning chart on SP and MC findings he just posted up. The best option would be if we didn’t care at all, and we just all used turds for CPU’s and used DDR5 6000 😂 good to go! That’s how it was when I was younger.

@electrosoft You know you’re right, your KS really is fantastic. So replacing such a chip with even the best, is not gonna do much. That P-SP120 14900K would have been equivalent to a P-SP130 13900KS which would still have only a slightly lower VID than you. I think about where I’m coming from which makes it more of a worth while jump. My KS is not like yours man, it has 1.484V VID’s, so It’ll be like stepping over the chart and then stepping off of the chart in to 1.413V VID’s. I think it should be a substantial bump from what I had.

Yes you are absolutely right about the business PP F&F is not being allowed, I didn’t know that at the time, my mistake. Anyways, I had the thought of grabbing this one as well, and possibly keeping the best of the two. But the smart option was letting my buddy in Malasia fund this deal and let him buy it, because the guy didn’t respond to him apparently, so I was trying to make the deal one way or the other whether for me or someone else. The IMC thing worried me the most because I felt like I had to pry that info out of him, and he didn’t confirm for sure without a doubt if it would be okay on normal ambient cooling. His responses were very vague when he mentioned the IMC would give out when it got too cold (Should be okay) or (It may not be a problem) (It will be aight). I don’t mind paying F&F at all or doing a bankwire. But here’s the thing, this guy wouldn’t come off that proof of ownership pic, and when he finally did, I couldn’t even read anything on the chip in the pic, since it was so hard getting that pic, I was just like man what the heck, enough is enough lol... I also thought it was fishy he was selling it after only 2 weeks of just getting it, but hey that’s merely speculation, he did just buy it binned from another country though. I definitely wasn’t gonna test them both if I had gotten it. I just love me a nice binned chip! TESTING those Global SP117 13900KS chips a while back was such a BLAST man! Lol. And lately I really want a strong IMC 🙂

Very odd and shady experience with the guy with that P-SP120 14900K on overclock.net for sale section he was being a little strange. I’m not sure why. But when that add first popped up yesterday, I went for it right after it appeared, either my self or someone else I know would have bought it, no doubt I was probably the first to PM him (Lucky). He texted me right after the PM and yesterday I spent the next 8 hours texting him periodically trying to make a deal and pay for the thing. He would not accept normal PayPal, and because he said he had a business PayPal he also couldn’t accept PayPal F&F. Some sort of strange behavior is going on with the chips IMC which seems to be the reasoning behind not wanting to use standard paypal, which is also why he’s selling it apparently. He runs it on LN2 which it could be an LN2 only issue as he stated, but he wasn’t positive if the IMC would run/clock normally on ambient water either. I said I’d be willing to do F&F payment, if he could send a proof of ownership pic. Write down “my” phone number on a piece of paper and take a pic of the actual R batch CPU that I’d receive. It took him 6 hours to make this picture happen. And when he finally sent the pic, he sent a pic of “his” phone number and all of the letters on the cpu are non legible at all. So, I think it’s a scam at this point, unless he’s just totally oblivious as to how good his pictures are. He wanted to do bank transfer only at this point. And, he said he was afraid of someone filing a dispute with PayPal against him with normal payments lol. I’m like dude, #1 if I receive it, #2 if it works and #3 its an SP108 global chip, then there is no dispute from me. if those boxes are checked lol. 😂 anyways, I wasted about a half a day trying to make a deal with that guy, and even offered PayPal F&F as an option. Apparently he is a Asus sponsored overclocker from what he says, but I feel like something is wrong with the CPU, or he’s trying to pull one over on someone. Below is the pic he sent me as “proof of ownership” lol which we can’t even see if it’s the same cpu from the add. I didn’t want to be disrespectful and post this over there. But I backed out as of earlier this morning “I’m good” Buyer beware!!!

I keep seeing this with the Team Group kits not sure why. So far G.Skill has been working for me. If I ever buy more ram that is XMP, it’s gonna be Gskill. The R batch chips say it right in the batch#, or right on the chip. Some stores will let you look at the boxes. So a chip may be X335R150 So long as it has the “R” as the 2nd letter in the batch # it’s a good chip. Every single R batch is gold sample.

Yes, I got CENS chip. I will check it out. Also I didn’t even know it was a KF. Anyways, these dang R batch chips are really insane. Literally everyone of them is keeper, cut from a special cloth 🤷‍♂️. I saw someone with a lower P-core SP111 and they were overclocking that chip to 6Ghz on ambient water with no delid pretty easily. Anyways, he was asking 1550 euros for one SP107 chip, which is like $1,697 United States dollars 🤯 (I did not pay anywhere near that much) but yeah still expensive either way. I really enjoy cpu and memory overclocking mostly. Part of the reason why I’ve held on to this 3090 so long I guess. I keep spending all my money on binned CPU’s. It’s the same CPU. I got it for a reasonable price though. I thought about just binning some 14900K’s. But the chances of finding one that’s good are so slim. Literally 98% of them are not very good it seems. And the other 2% are all golden chips. I think anything SP101 or better is like a really really good chip for the most part. Then we have IMC to deal with. So many of those SP101+ chips have a MCSP of 78 or lower. It’s very unfortunate. I really am digging that dual pump AIO. Are those really performing much better than more traditional AIO’s?

Yes the chip is pre-tested. And it’s got a very very strong IMC 8600+. No SA bug. Not gonna lie though, seeing that P-SP120 roll through has made me cry a little. 😂 But hey, SP107 vs SP108. probably not much of a difference here.

Thanks, I thought so. I agree with your thoughts as well. I just bought a R batch with 1.413V VID’s for 6Ghz. The MCSP is 86-87 range with ambient water. It’s a P-SP117 chip. I am not gonna delid it right away. I have a cheap Alphacool waterblock I am gonna test it with. I’m not sure what the 5.6 or 5.8 VID’s are yet, as I haven’t received it just yet. But being a R batch. I would expect the 5.8 VID to be 1.370v or less worst case scenario. It’s gonna be a surprise for those two VID’s as I really don’t know them. I am primarily after that good IMC though. I’m limited to 8533c40 with my current KS and it’s a MCSP80. PS: I am selling my current KS for super cheap if anyone is interested.

@electrosoft What would you consider a gold sample 14900K? I imagine you been doing a little research and checking here and there on them.

Same to you friend and that goes for everybody else!! Another thing I’m thankful for is my current IMC being good enough stabilizing DDR5 8533 in Y-Cruncher. It only took 2 me days. And about 250-300 visits to the bios lol. Now I can run Y-Cruncher 2.5B a few gazillion times reboot and run it some more. This bios profile is not as fast as the 8600C38 profile. But, this one is bullet proof stable if you wanna try it.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!!

My actual flow rate using a mechnical flow meter is 715.68 L/H 😎 using a calibrated Aquacomputer HighFlow 2. This is really some bonkers flow rate with (5) D5 pumps at 100%. 🤯

I am absolutely shocked right now that this also worked on your system as well. Not sure why the auto IMC and auto IVR TX voltages create such a magic experience, but it absolutely does, and it makes DDR5 overclocking seamless and much easier! @Papusan it will work on your Apex Encore too. Do not manually input cpu IMC voltages, do not enter manual IVR TX voltages either, or even manual SA voltages lol. Just let it run auto/auto/auto. And with “VDDQ Voltage training” enabled. It increases the overclock-ability and stability of these motherboards by a day and night amount.

@Papusan I’m gonna do a video comparing flow sensors. (In the blue corner:) The Aquatuning D5 Next pump with built in virtual flow rate, VS (In the red corner:) Aquatuning Highflow 2 mechanical flow rate sensor. 😎 We shall see how accurate the D5 next virtual flow rate really is. I’m dying to know. Does it read low? Does it read high? Or does it read accurately? I’ll do 1 pump at a time, all the way to 5 D5 pumps. @Mr. Fox Try to boost your ring up, it helps latency so much! Hitting 50ns now with the 48Shhhliggabyte 7200's. Also, try to run your IMC VDD, and IVR TX on Auto. This helps stability so much its crazy.

Can you use a 4090 on GeForce now? Or only 4080’s? Are there even slower GPU options available like 4060? Nice! I have been waiting forever now to see their expensive higher end GPU’s release. I wonder if they’ll ever compete with something like a 4080. Are you gonna water cool that GPU?

Nvidia and other AIB’s could have done so much better just by covering the entire back side of the GPU with a puddy or thick soft thermal pad like I use. Having memory on the backside is a non issue 100% though. My 3090KP GPU2 backside runs exactly 4.3C warmer than the front GPU temp. No fans, no active cooling on the back at all. If my GPU is 26C then the back of card is 30-31C range. The actual memory temps are 20-28C range. It make me think what in the heck is the actual point in a rear water block, because I don’t even have fans or a water block on the back lol. But it would seem like it. That 3090FE is already demonstrating memory and hotspot temps similar to what my stock 3090KP Hybrid would display. Only the FE has a backplate equivalent to a piece of tin foil. You should try this to your 4090. I think you’d be surprised. You would drop in temps every where. Take off the backplate and pack in that Optimus 3mm Fuji pad, and the entire card will fall in temps. And it’s fairly cheap to do.

I’m kinda wanting to try a 4090FE now 😁 But yes I think if this 3090FE just had a fan pointed at the backside the vram would drop another 10-15C. The back plate was 120F before repad/repaste. It measured a whopping 148F on the backplate after rear full cover pad and new pads/paste installed 😳 you can’t touch it for a split second! It will melt flesh 🤣 It does not crash anymore at all! Even with auto fan and 113% power limit it just chugs. Very nice to see it working properly.

Someone sent me this 3090FE to fix for them. It kept crashing under loads due to heat. The card was built December 2020. So it’s right at 3 years old. Anyways, look at the difference in the temps on this RTX3090FE after re-pad/re-paste!!! Installed new 20W/mk thermal pads on the front side. And covered the entire back side with pieces of an old used Optimus 3MM Fujipoly pad that I had, until the back PCB was completely covered. The memory temp alone dropped 30C, max boost went up by +60Mhz. Both graphs are Witcher 3 DX12 at 4K. LEFT= Before RIGHT= After NEW pads installed!

Stock RTX4090 gets 57-60fps with Quality DLSS+FG on in the new ARK 1.5 Are we half way there to RTX5090 yet? 🙃 Also, check this out, I just tested a 3090FE for the first time ever. And this GPU can’t even run stock the GPU max temp with 100% fans is 55-57C. But It crashes in practically any game after just 15-20 minutes because the memory gets so HOTTTT 🥵 the back side will literally burn your flesh off after less than 1 second of touching it. It’s crazy! The memory is hitting 104C. I have a 114% power limit set, and that’s it. I am gonna have to tear the card apart and fix its horrible temps. I have a 100x100mm sheet of some 20w thermal pads ready for it.

Starfield has always ran amazing! This game is just absolutely butter since launch day. 4K@Ultra+DLSS Quality has always been around 77FPS average for me. Now, another title that does not run amazing is Ark Survival Ascended lol. 4K native resolution Epic graphics, FG & DLSS off averages like 19-25 fps (Using a 4090)

How’s that 4080 running?! Lol. I know GeForce now is really a cool idea, and great service. But how is the image quality can you tell it’s streamed? I know my Gamepass Cloud gaming looks like crap compared to real life. It’s like hazy and fuzzy looking and it almost looks like a YouTube video of gameplay compared to real gameplay. But GeForce now may be different. Never tried it.

Yes you’re right those 2x16’s work well on the Dark and that’s probably what you should leave in it, but nice 2x24’s can absolutely smash in an Apex. My timings are crap and loose. My memory is absolutely below average for water chilled ram. Even worse than your 8000 kit, but it’s all that I can get stable for 8600c38. If you go key in Sugi’s timings for 8600 just for benching purposes with 2x24GB it’s like 45NS with maybe 1.450VDD which is insane, I can run that for about all of about 3-6 minutes before a BSOD occurs haha. But he is using really good Hynix green sticks 2x24GB kinda like your green stick 2x16’s in that dark. If I was smart I would have bought some binned rams on HWbot when they pop up from time to time, and I’d be running a fully tuned 8600 profile.

This is a pretty speedy ram profile with some fairly loose timings. I have been having some strange things happen with ram OC lately since new bios and it was from pushing too much voltage to my IMC and IVR TX, since starting from scratch on bios 1501, I did NOT adjust CPU IMC voltage or IVR TX voltage at all. I left both on auto and miraculously DDR5 8600 C38 works very well. Latency on @Mr. Fox benching windows OS would probably be like 50NS. Ram voltages in bios are 1.640V VDD, and 1.590V VDDQ.

This is awesome.

Yeah that is pretty annoying. I’m just glad the gains are fairly minor. Not nearly as bad as me missing out on the Frame Gen feature that the RTX40’s have. This one feature alone would make it worth getting even just a RTX4070Ti. Lower power and high frames! Ark Ascended is really hard to run at 4K with no Frame Gen. @Mr. Fox Did you try those Team Groups in the Apex Z790 yet? My G.Skill 7200’s can run 8600C38 solid with 1.64V VDD, and 1.590V VDDQ. Latency is about 51ns. I have backed off the CPU IMC voltage, and backed off the IVR TX voltage to 1.400V or less range, and then I started juicing up the DDR5 VDD/VDDQ and I am seeing some really really good results now with bios 1501.