tps3443

They fixed The Witcher III DX12/RTX version !!!! It is butter smooth now. 1% lows are like 52FPS and 60ish average now. 🤯 It looks beautiful, and it’s butter butter butter smooth!!

I love re-doing thermal pads and paste and stuff and seeing the results especially with a GPU on a waterblock. There are some 25W/mk pads available from TG as well, I would love to try them! It’s crazy how the thermal pad industry and conductive forms have taken off! I remember on Amazon when all we could get was cheap or premium Fujipoly.

Wait, so you put that phase change pad on the GPU die? And it runs cooler than KPX thermal paste? Another interesting thing is, your memory junction temp is lower than the die temp. That’s very interesting. I’m using Thermalright TFX on my GPU die, but now I want to try this! I’m not sure if I’ll see any gains. My block is +14.5C delta over water temp @520 watts. But, I’d love to get even more! I think we are supposed to freeze the PTM7950 before peeling the plastic it helps prevent tearing, that’s just something I read😁

I found a 3090 Kingpin with Optimus Signature KINGPIN waterblock. The guy PM’ed me and said he’d sell the block only for $500 bucks. I thought, hmm okay maybe I’ll get it. Then not even 30 minutes later, he’s like I will only sell them together ($1,000 bucks) for 3090KP+Optimus Signature KP block 😞 I’m tempted to buy it, and NVLink these together. Run some benchmarks, and then sell off the worst overclocker with the KP HC block lol. I just want the Optimus block honestly! The block is the black version, and it has the 4090 Gen 2 cold plate installed.🙂 so even better performance than normal. I’ve always wanted to try the so called “Best GPU block in the world” they are absolutely legendary, Here are some pics of it.

@Mr. Fox You can try these timings as well. This is DDR5 8800 C40 (Just started testing it) I am back to my DDR5 8800 profile, which worked really great for daily usage even stock on air cooling for gaming only and work etc. But I'll probably do 20-30 minutes of memory testing using Anta777 Extreme, and if its good then I will leave it. I may be able to even get DDR5 9000 I haven't tried that one just yet. This is with: •Auto IVR TX voltage •VDDQ Voltage Training enabled. •CPU IMC voltage is set at 1.481V (Not even sure I need that much, but it's a starting point, my profile actually only had it set to 1.400V for DDR5 8800, but I feel like that is not enough based on other people) •1.600V MEM VDD •1.55V MEM VDDQ •SA voltage is auto 1.332V •CPU@6.0Ghz P-Cores •CPU@4.6Ghz E-Cores •5.0Ghz Ring

That’s Great. This just makes things even worse than they were lol.

DUDE!!! Thanks. Seeing this on Dying Light 2 is really gonna help. That game is probably the heaviest in 4K. F**K you NVIDIA!!!! I’m keeping my 3090 🤣 AMD loves us more I guess. It’s frustrating how the RTX3090/3090Ti can be such a powerhouse in raw rasterization. But smoothness is smoothness, and RTX4000 series wins here easily by having the Frame Gen feature. Nvidia is essentially forcing people to upgrade, however the RTX4070Ti is a steaming pile of poop in true 4K, and it has a little baby sized 12GB GDDR6, then we have the RTX4080 which is very strong but still only has 16GB of GDDR6. It’s like Nvidia knows this, and they are allowing us to be shot in the foot with 4070Ti/4080, or bending over and slotting in the 4090 with 24GB. 😂

What games is it released on? Besides the 2.3Ghz internal clock speed, this FSR3 is really gonna save my 3090 Kingpin. I’m hoping to see FSR3 mature nicely. I think it’s disgusting that Nvidia did not offer frame regeneration on RTX3000 series. 😞 this is one of the main things I’m so upset with them over.

That is awesome!!! Thanks AMD!!!

@Mr. Fox My HWINFO did not have that feature, I was like what in the heck, I do not see that option. Okay here you go I got HWinfo v7.62 now! This is my timings that I used for 56 minutes of Anta777 Extreme with Testmem5 at 8600. After 56 min or so, it did show like 2-3 errors. Correct Timings I used

I used a blow dryer and they got burning hot really quickly. And then I just slowly peeled the cheap covers and light bars away from the memory sticks. Then I poured alcohol on a dinner plate, laid the memory flat on the plate then I swap sticks between soak/scrub/soak, then scraped off that sticky tape stuff with a plastic scraper/finger nail and / dawn dish soap. It was all pretty quick, and was not bad at all. It took me an hour to fully prep the sticks. Mine were 100% spotless clean too.

Looks like a nice CPU. I really like the KS it was such a massive jump over the standard K which is crazy for being the same generation and from the same slabs of silicon. Intel screened these really well, because any KS is really good. Now, this has me wondering what 1 whole year later gets us? KS was so much better than K, then 14th gen must be like a KS-X. I just want something like that 1st SP117 Global 13900KS I tested. It was just ridiculous. I loved it. If the 14900K brings us that, 😁 I’m all for it. I just know, I’m not binning any 14th gen at all. I’m gonna order (1), delid it, and be happy that it’s better than what I had already. I have an SP104 global KS, so the bar ain’t very high 😂

1.500 MEM VDD 1.450 MEM VDDQ 1.320 IVR TX 1.420 IMC CPU SA Auto 1.332V Cpu voltage is auto with LLC#1 I these are pretty loose timings mostly auto, but I can share them.

I have heard they are gonna run +300Mhz better than an average 13900K and that’s before delidding. So, almost everyone of these is probably gonna knock back 5.9Ghz on a cheap 360MM AIO. Once you delid, and throw it on custom water we’re talking fast speeds for any of them. Then we’ll have better E-Cores, and a better IMC, better ring. I think (6.1Ghz-6.3Ghz) all cores on an average sample can be expected with direct die and custom loop. @Mr. Fox On another note, now that my rams are cold to the touch. I can actually run a proper stress test. I never wasted my time with it before. (Memory is so sensitive to heat) I have removed a massive problem in the equation, with these supercool blocks lol. Running DDR5 8600c40 Anta777Extreme for 29 minutes so far with testmem5 😁

That white motherboard looks so familiar 🧐 lol

ughhh. I guess I am. Fine here we go again… 😂 Can I ever stop working on and upgrading this hunk O’ junk?!!! 🤣

It’s so beautiful!! @Mr. Fox I used a firm high M/kw 0.5MM thermal pad on each memory IC. Then a 1.0MM lower M/kw super soft green thernal pad for the PMIC. I then put a tiny dab of my best thermal paste on each IC, and the PMIC as well. My ram sticks are lined up PERFECTLY!!! I was amazed how perfect it was. I have not even hooked up water yet. But they are running nice and COOL already with no cold water!! 🙂 I did not peel off the double sided sticky tape on the back side of ram part yet. I left that so I can slide the ram and line it up as needed, so it’ll slot in my board all together as 1 piece. I have no thermal pads on the back side at all. I don’t think it needs any. It has a 0.5mm padded foam for adhesive. Leave the plastic adhesive cover on, so you can slide your ram once it’s all together. You’ll see. I love them. TEMPS: (Temps have not gone past 34.5C in Starfield, and this is with NO water hooked up at all. 😂 EDIT: Temps are actually dropping as the thermal pads and thermal paste squishes. I’m down to 33C now max in game. Unlike my 3090 Kingpin, I assembled these ram sticks/pads/paste cold. I’m loving this. how to upload photos in internet

The O-Rings on the terminal for my 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper block are called the EKWB 14x1mm, I randomly ordered some EKWB seals, and I found the right size on my own. Coincidentally, the same exact size used in the Supercool memory waterblocks too. This size seems to be a standard for many inlet/outlets for PC blocks. That’s great! Anyways, I’m not gonna take apart my GPU again, just to replace its seals with new ones lol. (I’m good) lol it’s sealed and leak tested anyways. Plus it’s not like they went bad, my dumb self just lost one to begin with. 😂 anyways, I HAVE SPARES and ai know what they are!!! Yay.

Okay, that’s great. My experience with them has been, you place your order, your items will be shipped within 3 days. Then we start counting, and have these time frames on shipping. Standard international shipping= 20 days. Express international shipping = 10 days. Too bad I burned through all of my 0.5MM high end pads re-doing a 3090KP HC block (Twice) 😂 Now I can’t even mount these today.

My supercool memory blocks arrived.

Man, I have hit some crazy dang clocks and temps with this 3090KP. This thing overclock a so good. The actual internal GPU clock speed is 2,272Mhz even though it says 2,265 external.

I actually figured out what causes the terminal to leak. And it’s us assembling the waterblock and missing a critical and very simple step that is common sense 😂. And that is the alignment of the plexi top and the copper block, these two are totally flush and sit together and the terminal will rest on the edge of both flats of these. The terminal bolts to the top plexi portion first, and the O-Rings will seal around the inlet/outlet on the plexi top only, if the copper base is poking out a tiny amount (Almost like an overbite from the copper base lol) it will cause the terminal to be tightened down at an angle. If you don’t align these top and bottom two parts totally flush, or maybe even allow the copper piece to have a small underbite then it’s gonna leak. It’s easy to reassemble the block where the copper sticks out just a papers thickness amount more than the plexi, which will cause the terminal to lift off of the inlet/outlet on the plexi, If it does it is going to be tilted and it’s going to leak. Anyways, I thought about that Bykski block, or maybe just the back plate lol. But, this kingpin block works really really good.

I SEALED IT!!!! 🤯🤯🤯😱😱😱 1st try. I didn’t have a leak tester before, and I was not tackling this without one, I bought one on Amazon last night, and had it by this afternoon 🙂. Well, now I got me one and they are amazing. I did over 1 Bar for 30 minutes, then I backed it down to between 0.50 and 0.75 Bar and I will let it rest for some hours and make sure no leaks. Before tear down, when I hooked up the Barrow tester for the very first time, to just confirm a leak and where it was at. It was HISSING like a beast. Dropping from 1 Bar to 0 Bar in a matter of 2-2.5 seconds or less. The last pic is a JOKE. 😂

I want me a fancy new A/C system too. Mine is crap, it consumes far too much energy based on my power bill. During the summer months it runs 24/7 and for about 110 days straight. While only managing to keep my house to 78F inside if I’m lucky. Some days it reaches 80F inside the home. This was primarily why I went with chilled water for my PC.

That K5 Pro is some seriously sticky messy stuffy. I tell you what else is nearly just as impossible to remove. That full cover Fujipoly pad that I use sweats oils when it heats. And it has permanently coated my entire back side of the 3090KP PCB in this thick clear dielectric grease film, not even a bottle of alcohol and a tooth brush can remove it. I could pour soda on it while running and be totally fine. It’s kind of a 2nd feature because since I run a chiller and some days I develop a little condensation without even realizing it. Anyways, my favorite GPU‘s are the Galax HOF models, whether it be current gen or older gens there is something special about them. There is a 3090Ti HOF “OC Lab” with the rare OC lab waterblock and white presentation hardcase etc. it’s so cool, if I had money too burn it’s be mine. The guy wants like $2,000 for it. But man, it’s #4 of only #100 in the world. I’d love to overclock that thing! I really love the RTX4090 Galax as well, but I feel like they should really have a matching HOF waterblock. Another GPU I still want to try is the 2080Ti HOF OC Lab. I have kinda learned that with PC parts nowadays, it’s not about how new or fast something is. It’s about how much fun you have with it! And these elite OC cards can absolutely do that. Which is exactly why I’d be dumb enough to spend $2,000 on a Galax HOF 4080 or even a Galax HOF 3090Ti lol. Either one can get whooped by cheaper slower 4090’s. But the user experience is on another level! 🙂 I forget this time to time when I’m window shopping and spot cheap low priced 4080’s/4090’s. And then I think about the coolness and overclock experience I have with my 3090KP. And then the desire for that economical 4080/4090 kinda fades away lol. Speaking of this, don’t you have a HOF 4090? Are you planning to put a waterblock on it? Were you ever able to get their overclocking app that the pro’s have access to?