tps3443

I can run these older titles like Crysis on my 11900K without a video card at all. It’s nice to see we’ve come along ways on graphical power using just the CPU. It’s kind of impressive really, imagining that just the CPU can do that. I bet the 13900K’s IGP is far better with DDR5 7200+ though. It’s kind of unfortunate I’ve got a 13900KF so I will never really know. Anyways, I hate the EA Play thing that’s integrated with Steam. I see the dumped Origin all together.

Hey, Rockitcool contacted me directly because I pretty much said their manufacturing was bogus. And they sent me a brand new copper IHS. I didn’t ask for it or anything, they just sent it “It doesn’t fit either lol” Also, @Mr. Fox I received all Of the Crysis remastered titles free from Intel with the purchase of my 11900K from Newegg back in September 2021. They are fantastic.

I use my computer for work everyday managing a team of agents, so I use that as an excuse lol. Nothing wrong with running the fastest cpu/ memory available. It certainly helps.

No worries. @Papusan We’re all wasting money together! Especially if it involves computer parts or technology. Only this small waste provides some sort of entertainment. Think of the waste if I bought a RTX4090 LOL. And It includes free thermalpaste

I found some for $1 dollar lol. So I’m curious to try it out and see how bad it really is. So from what I have researched mushing them down as thin as possible is what creates a really good contact. So I’m gonna try and flatten them out first. And then mount them in place for further flattening. I have seen them perform within a few degrees of even Kryonaut. I’m just curious is all.

@Talon I think I remember you saying a while back you ran one of those carbonaut thermal pads, or something similar. Those thin dry thermal pads that are reusable and used instead of thermal paste on the CPU. I bought one to try. How do they work?

Same. I’m good. If I were to buy something right now, it would be exchanging my DDR5 7200 for the DDR5 7600 “Since they pretty much cost the same” and the worst urge is wanting to buy a Asus Z790 Apex really bad lol. Even though I don’t need either.

Their 16M/kw thermal paste is much softer than the 17M/kw. They are literally (2) different pastes. I noticed bad temps at first too though with the 17mk stuff, so terrible that I immediately switched back to that TF7 paste, then after delidding etc, I gave the Alphacool past another chance. And this is what happen. I tightened my waterblock in cross pattern to where it was really really snug on each corner and good to go. I ran my PC, checked my waterblock after a few minutes and it wasn’t that snug anymore lol. I was able to tighten a substantial amount more after it all warmed up. Then I saw the temps collapse on me.

What’s wrong with the DCH Intel drivers for the iGPU? It works freaking great. I can actually run games really slowly at bare minimum performance. I’m actually impressed by the Intel UHD 750 that’s on the 11900K. I hit 15,000 in 3DMark Night Raid. It overclocks really really good too, I’m using Windows 11 anyways so I don’t really care what type of drivers they are.

Patiently waiting on 2nd 13900KF. I feel like Newegg kinda got me on the shipping time. Not sure why they do that every now and again, but they waited 2 days before actually mailing off my order. I’m thinking maybe they didn’t have inventory. Not sure. But it’s a little frustrating. On another note: I am overclocking my Intel UHD 750 in my 11900K and this iGPU is really actually impressive. I feel like an idiot for not getting a 13900K just to mess around with this thing. So the UHD 750 runs at 1.3Ghz, I have mine at 2Ghz right now and it’s actually about 60% faster than a standard UHD 750. It’s also consuming double the power at 30+ watts.

You are keeping the 3060Ti over that 2080Ti? I guess they do look to be comparable. This probably makes the most sense for your use on this rig anyways. I have had so much fun with 2080Ti’s especially once you flash KFA2 bios and water cool it. I was managing around 7,800 with my 2080Ti FE in Time spy Extreme. I was blowing even a 3070Ti out of the water by about 20%. But this was before Ampere matured to what it is now. Turing was in its moment of peak prime. You’ve had that 2080Ti for a while too so that’s understandable. Also, I think Nvidia made some nice improvements with RTX3000 series driver advancements lately, like faster DLSS, and also faster ray tracing performance than RTX2000 series. So I imagine the 3060Ti has probably really come along ways since it’s launch. Hard to believe it has already been over (4) years since the first Ray traced Nvidia GPU’s have launched!

Is this overclocked vs overclocked? the stock 2080Ti VS overclocked 2080Ti is really day and night.

Newegg finally shipped mine today. When I checked Amazon during “Ready to buy time” they didn’t have any in stock for that price. But I may grab another to test last time I ordered from Amazon they sent me some straight up duds though both identical batches lol.

11900K Laughs at 240MM AIO cooler.

Rebuilding my old parts from last year in to a computer. Crazy good 11900K Relidded with LM EVGA Z590 Dark LGA 1200 2x16GB Dominator Platinum 3600C14 Raid-0 M.2 SSD’s I’m partial to this system, because I put a lot of time and money in to it lol. What’s funny is this 11900K will run 5.3 all cores on just this little $50 dollar AIO. You can’t get one to do that on a huge radiator and a waterchiller even.

Absolutely. I’ve got everything unlocked. Once I get another CPU we’ll do that.

Yep, maybe. I setup my base in Rust with enough resources for 5-6 days just in case delayed shipping on my new cpu etc, and shipped off the old one. Not sure if you played Rust before? It’s a blast though. I have like 890 hours in that game. 600+ all on my 3090KP. Excited to test another 13900KF though. As for a 4090? I’m honestly still content with my current GPU.

I wish I had a bunch of those EKWB. They are very expensive though unfortunately. I think $28-$40 dollars each? But yeah I’d love to have about 10 of them. EDIT: I just shipped off my 13900KF. I ended up selling it to a stranger on the forums for $1,200 USD who was attracted by its low power abilities which were fully Prime 95 stable. Honestly, I could care less personally. I know that I had a blast testing it. Now I get to test another one, I think that’s the most fun. So I went ahead and ordered another 13900KF from Newegg. Also, someone else had my exact batch number X238L435 and theirs was a SP116 P-Cores, and SP88 E-Cores. Maybe mine was the same? Just a guess. We’ll never know for sure! Lol

So before the delid I had several screen shots that displayed a 22C water temp. But the water was really 14C. I had the water temp sensor just hanging and not dipped in water. So I was comparing these screen shots looking back and thinking my water temp was 22C. But yes there is a very large difference in temps. I do not go stingy with liquid metal I try to let it really soak in to that inner IHS too. Nothing for it to harm under the IHS. You could fill the whole thing up if you wanted and make a liquid metal pool with the IHS glue her back on LOL kidding. Also, did your IHS spin freely on the die? I lapped my IHS lips until they were all bare copper and a small gap for adhesive was between the substrate and IHS.

@Mr. Fox I have seen a solid 10C improvement in package temps from my delid and re-seal. I’m using Alphacool 17Mkw thermalpaste on the IHS. CPU is sealed back up and looks like it was never even touched really. Anyways, I’m really happy with it. I can do 228 watts through R23 (30 Minute test) 5.5 all core and 5.8Ghz boost. CPU runs like 46-52C 😁 At first I thought there was not a difference. Because my old screenshots has the water temp sensor reading higher than it was. Well, I realized I didnt even have the temp sensor dipped in water during the older pre-delid screenshots, and it was just reading room temp.

They’re not round tube design like the Mora3’s. But hey! It’s $130 dollars lol. I have (2) of them, and I’ll eventually get around to running both. But the truth is one alone has been very sufficient. Right now I’m running my 13900KF at 5.8/4.5/4.8 with 1.285V in the bios, with 25.5c water I reach a maximum of 80C on my CPU during R23. Can’t beat that.

What are your thoughts on the Pora3? 😁

Check out my temps after the relid and seal using the stock IHS. I am very very impressed by this! Water temp as you can see is 25C. I have also had bad luck with using copper IHS's. I tried them with 7980XE, and an 8086K. They just suck.. Stock IHS is KING! Anyways, this delid helped core to core temps drastically. I also reglued the IHS, and made it looks as clean as it can be. It looks OEM 100%. I am happy again with it at least. This is the best the temps have ever been. I’m using TF7 thermal paste too which is surprising how good my temps are.

This is the solution 100%. ^^^ I was already in the process. Before I read your post. I polished the inside up the IHS with Fritz. Sanded down the lip of the IHS so it spun on the die like silk. Then LMed the inner IHS until it was soaked to the max and reach an equilibrium. LMed the die and rubbed it to death so I know it’ll be good and painted on to the die, and it’ll last longer than the life of the chip. I put my adhesive in tiny dabs on the corners and wings then I put it in the relidding clamp. Which does seem to line it up properly at least.

I seriously regret deliding my 13900KF everything went smooth with that, but it’s other stuff that ruins the experience and makes me question that decision. What a waste of time and money this has been. I spent $90 dollars with shipping for a delid tool and IHS to run it the proper way. And Rockitcool is just an idiot for not even test fitting their Copper IHS inside of the bend correction frames to begin with. I mean, they are just complete idiots for selling this stuff at all, do they not realize that people could potentially destroy their processors just by mounting their crap IHS with a thermal right bend frame? No matter what I do, I always end up running something ghetto in the end I swear lol. Delidding my cpu wasn’t enough, I’ve got to file down the pretty copper IHS to make it fit at all. Once I filed it down to make it fit the Bending frame. The bending frame holes do not line up with the motherboard holes. So now I can’t screw down my CPU at all.. As always here we are. My cpu is running in my PC, but I have (4) screws in my hand. Can anyone guess what screws those are lol? ROCKITCOOL YOU SUCK! I’m gonna run out of liquid metal continuously removing my cpu and remounting like a crazy person and discovering another issue yet again. I’m about to ditch the IHS all together and try that. No ILM, no frame, just bare die on block.. That worked great with my past CPU’s. And I have it running at the moment only an IHS and frame that’s not even screwed down under my water block. No memory channel issues, or anything like that. Only my water block presses my cpu down and it’s working on the first try.