tps3443

@Talon Not sure if you already bought the new rams on Newegg or not, but I took my 2x24GB DDR5 7200 sticks and I copied the timings from those brand new $400 dollar DDR5 8400 sticks, I started with 1.450V the exact same timings as their stock XMP and a frequency of 8400. Well, it has passed over 30 minutes of Anta777 Extreme just fine. I’m going to keep reducing voltage, and then just build on these timings. But, so far so good. Something to consider. Im using my white APEX with bios 1402. Timings are like a key to a lock, I swear lol. But, now that I got them it sure makes overclocking these dimms and making them actually stable stable very easy with a base line to go back to. Now, I’m not sure if low temps are the cause here for my stability. Maybe so. But it’s still worth a try. Even just my 8000c34 profile is faster than the 8400XMP profile, but timings are so tough because finding that right combo for a specific frequency that’s actually stable is very difficult and time consuming. This makes it easy, then build on top of that.

Did you get one? Lol. Yeah I need hardware rehab too sometimes. Honestly, I have not even opened the Apex Z790 Encore yet. I am gonna tear my system down when the rest of my parts come in though. Then I will have time to think on if I’m going to open that box and really run the Z790 Apex black encore or stick with my Z790 Apex white. I really bought it because I felt like they were gonna be super super limited in supply, and sold out right away and for an eternity lol. I was not sure if it actually was going to offer any substantial improvement, so I bought one on a whim just in case. It looks like real overclocking performance gains are definitely there though, however the white Z790 Apex is already so dang good we can’t even reach its limits with all IMC’s and pretty much all current DDR5 available. Some of the guys behind its PCB and bios engineering have mentioned +200 or +400Mhz more overclocking on memory is realistic and as high as +600Mhz more on benching ram speeds over the standard Z790 Apex Vanilla, but again with our current IMC limits and DDR5 limits, I don’t really know how meaningful this is. It’s definitely going to shine maybe with a 14900KS and only the most recent DDR5 to come in the future like DDR5 8600-8800 kits in the future. But unless you have some handpicked DDR5 that can do more than 8800+ and a handpicked IMC that can go past 8800+ you’re not limited by your motherboard one bit.

Okay..I opened the shipping box. Just to peak, just to peak. 😬 Not like I have any use for high performance overclocking motherboards anyways. I doubt I’ll even use this thing. 🤪 Who here believes me? @Mr. Fox this box feels just like the Z690 Apex lol. I do enjoy the Apex line though just saying. BIG bios learning curve moving from EVGA though.

I ordered a bunch of tubing, and I am literally going to be tearing my entire system apart. I want a bucket of used fittings by the end of tonight so I can start from scratch and have a fitting available for every run of tubing when I reach for one lol. Fittings are scarce around here. I keep buying more, and they just disappear 🤣 @Mr. Fox I also ordered the Aqua computer Dual D5 top so I can eliminate the 300MM EKWB PUMP/RES that I am using, and be able to add my (5th) D5 pump. 🤯 wow, five D5 pumps. You know what’s funny? If I run my (4) D5’s at a slightly lower speed of just 80% I don’t get air build up in my system. But, full speed on all of the pumps causes air build up. I’m wondering if the Mbar pressure is too high in certain areas or for certain components. I don’t exactly believe this theory, and I still feel like I’ve got a bad tube or fitting some where that’s failing under pressure. (I’m determined to find it) This is a big loop, and I’m gonna try to take my time when I set it up from scratch.

The new Threadripper naming is so familiar. Sounds like Intel 7960 and Intel 7980 names which carry legendary performance and longevity.…. 🤣

Yeah you’re right, I have really just changed my tune on memory stability. So, I would set DDR5 8800 and go test it in games and other real world apps, and if it was reliable 24/7 I would leave it at that. It was not until first hand experience seeing the downsides of a “Jufis Stable” memory overclock. These instabilities are not easily noticed but are more underlying with poor 0.1% lows and inconsistent latency in games that may cause skipping which are the most common issues that occur. This drove me to want a true stable memory overclock, which is why I run this DDR5 8000C34 right now, because my sticks just can’t produce much better and be 100% stable with no errors. The problem with this is, most memory kits cannot do DDR5 8800 true stable. We’d have to buy like (8-10) sticks of 24GB Hynix 5600/6400 and test each stick one at a time, then run the best (2) together. I can’t even find the Green stick 24GB Hynix stuff anywhere. This does make me happy about the 8400/8600 XMP stuff coming out especially with only 1.400V (That’s impressive, but not for $400 dollars lol..) My IMC is good to go, my motherboard(s) pick your poison black or white are both good to go lol. But not my 7200 sticks.

I think my ram sucks… And I’m ready to toss it. I can make it 5 minutes on Anta777 Extreme with my (2x24GB) 7200 sticks while @ 8800C40. Im sending lots of voltage. The more voltage I send the longer it runs the test. 🤣 My CPU IMC seems to be happy with it, but this is seriously feeling like a ram limitation. I want some of those 8400 sticks. I bet they could do 8800 TM5 stable.

Nice, was that like a free rental? 😂 that’s pretty smart actually. I want to be like you, and do this too. The depreciation makes me have nightmares on such expensive laptops!

These blocks are so good too! Man, I wonder if you could take that plate off the one and 3D print a plastic replica lol. Or maybe get some thin steel and make one. I would file a claim either way, but definitely try to make them work. They are worth it!

That guy at supercool has always been bad with communication. I am going to guess and say they are on the way, and he’s just not responding because he does that lol. But, there may be some people in the US who have some spares. I know of a few people on overclock forums who ordered double for backup parts. They may come off a backplate and (3) screws. I would post something in the DDR5 overclocking thread on overclock forums, and in the ROG Z790 forums. Most all of these guys are running Supercool blocks. And I remember seeing a few order two sets.

It really was a tricky setup adding the tank, and that’s a nifty setup you’ve got, some of your tips you did would have work so well in my exact application lol. I did want to mention this though. Sometimes it can be assembled and have no issues at all, and we won’t have pressure in the tank. It makes me want to tear my entire loop apart, order 25ft of tubing, and start the heck over from scratch 🤣 This pics below are of a kid’s setup that I helped build his first custom loop ever. From ordering the best parts, to assembly. He has no air at all that reaches his tank. And his tank is totally air tight, without pressurizing. His desktop PC is only water chilling the cpu/ram only. It uses (2) Eheim 1260 pumps, your exact A Customs 5 gallon tank, and a JBJ 1/3HP 4,000BTU chiller sitting below the tank. His setup is a Z790 Dark with a 13700K on Supercool Direct die Gen12, he has Supercool DDR5 blocks on his ram as well.

Wait, so all that work I did removing those stock heatspreaders and that adhesive on my current set, I have to do again?

Apex Encore shipped.

I guess I’ll ride out on Z790/13900KS for a while. It’s really just so fast… Honestly, our typical CPU’s are ridiculously powerful. I remember when I had my 7980XE@5Ghz which was such a beast, then I moved to a lesser but more practical 10900K. It was a massive trade off, and I lost enough multithreaded performance where I could no longer run VR, and games simultaneously on the 10900K/11900K. But, we are at a point where mainstream chips smash that 5Ghz 18/36 core behemoth, and they can actually do these heavy multitask things easily. This makes me think that Z790 platform and 13900K/KS is gonna be super practical for a very long time. And it may even turn in to the long term gaming king like 10900K was and is.

It was $695 after 7.75% sales tax. But I opted for faster shipping which added another $13. The free Newegg shipping for me, is the absolute worst! Newegg knows people are impatient, and they know we don’t wanna wait 4-7 days for their super slowver shipping option 😂

I pre-ordered that Encore, so I would have time to think on it until the 10/20 release. And they just texted me and said it’s already in packaging 🤷‍♂️

The new Z790 Apex Encore is on Newegg for $649.99.

Big difference in the 5.8Ghz VID’s and 5.4Ghz, that is gonna reflect in real world. The biggest difference is E-Cores. You’re lucky because those make the largest difference in multithreaded. You will easily run all those at 4.8 without jumping off a cliff with voltage and heat. My current chip needs LOTS of extra juice to push 4.8E. I’d be curious to see how the ring is too. My ring sucks on my KS 🤣 it’s 5.0Ghz and that’s IT! 5.1 ring will lock up on me 🙃

Here is the issue I am having. https://youtu.be/Hmkt-DMrJcw?si=QIDCQl9ZGrhmrGD8

@Mr. Fox it really is a lot of air that accumulates after just 1.5 hours lol, if it was just a little I would not bother.. The only thing that’s different is my inlet pushing water back in to my tank is not submerged so my tank sounds like a gold fish pond, but my outlet pumping water out of the tank and in to my PC is always submerged. My water tank is slightly lower than my water chiller. Do you think the outlet not being submerged could be causing problem? The tank is open and not sealed. When I shake my chiller it will totally air up the whole 1-2Ft of water tubing. And it keeps on pushing air from my chiller while shaking/tilting the chiller. Then it stops and slows down. And re-builds after another 1-2 hours. The pump noises are the most annoying though. I had the same problem when the tank was sitting on my desk, and it was well above the chiller then. Seeing the tiny air bubbles in my water block only made me think that was where it’s coming from. But I leak tested my block really well without the QD3’s. So it could possibly be the QD3’s. I have torn apart and reassembled every pump and re-leak tested every block. Only think I did not test were my (2-3) 45 degree fittings, I should have left those and capped them. I also have been clipped off each 1” of tubing for a fresh tube to fitting connection just to make sure the tubes are not loose. It really is tough finding this leak that doesn’t leak 🤣 EDIT: (I am tilting the tank so my back to tank inlet is submerged, and ai am gonna see if my chiller still fills with air)

This pump has a built in flow meter and temp sensor. But, it’s just a hassle to calibrate it properly. (1) You need specific Aqua Computer coolant for the flow sensor to work, or you could maybe mix something up that would be consistent to make the sensor read my water. (2) You can only have this (1) pump running during calibration process, that’s not exactly possible. This one pump can’t even turn water in my loop, as the calibration process drops to 0% then slowly moves up during calibration lol. (3) You are supposed to pinch off/block flow during calibration and release the tube after it’s done? Why would I do this 😂 (4) Water temp needs to be 33C or higher for proper calibration to work. (Not gonna happen) So, it pumps and it tells me my water temp. I’m okay with that. I’ve got a mechanical flow sensor on the way that I will piggy back off of the pump and run on its own tube, and the flow rate from the sensor will display on the pump but it will be an accurate reading from a mechanical sensor. It also seems less powerful than my brand new VPP655T. That it replaced. Power usage shows 19.5 watts from the pump. I’m still struggling with my loop. Air is getting in somehow. I have leak tested my pumps, my blocks, and I took apart my supercool. The only thing I can think of is maybe my Koolance QD3’s are introducing air in through the cpu block and it’s slowly filling up air in my system. I already tore down my supercool tonight and leak tested it on both sides and it is 100%. The air slowly builds in the chiller tank, and I have to shake it out in to my reservoir. I can see teeny tiny air bubbles in my supercool block so I think it may be coming from my QD3’s. I also took them off and put some o ring grease and put them back on.

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all I need it for, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C to calibrate and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work, and you have to pinch a line to calibrate the pump as well. Any other coolant may not work..🤣 I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂 EDIT: I got the software working, but I don’t think the virtual flow will work with my water type and water temp.

@Papusan My D5 Next says 0 L flow rate. How do I make it work? I got it all set up.

Pump is here D5 Next. Great deal for $115.

My loop is still sucking air in. I have taken apart every pump reassembled with O-Ring grease on the G1/4 plug seals and the pump seals. I’m going to check the super cool, it has a few small bubbles in it.