tps3443

I have heard they are gonna run +300Mhz better than an average 13900K and that’s before delidding. So, almost everyone of these is probably gonna knock back 5.9Ghz on a cheap 360MM AIO. Once you delid, and throw it on custom water we’re talking fast speeds for any of them. Then we’ll have better E-Cores, and a better IMC, better ring. I think (6.1Ghz-6.3Ghz) all cores on an average sample can be expected with direct die and custom loop. @Mr. Fox On another note, now that my rams are cold to the touch. I can actually run a proper stress test. I never wasted my time with it before. (Memory is so sensitive to heat) I have removed a massive problem in the equation, with these supercool blocks lol. Running DDR5 8600c40 Anta777Extreme for 29 minutes so far with testmem5 😁

That white motherboard looks so familiar 🧐 lol

ughhh. I guess I am. Fine here we go again… 😂 Can I ever stop working on and upgrading this hunk O’ junk?!!! 🤣

It’s so beautiful!! @Mr. Fox I used a firm high M/kw 0.5MM thermal pad on each memory IC. Then a 1.0MM lower M/kw super soft green thernal pad for the PMIC. I then put a tiny dab of my best thermal paste on each IC, and the PMIC as well. My ram sticks are lined up PERFECTLY!!! I was amazed how perfect it was. I have not even hooked up water yet. But they are running nice and COOL already with no cold water!! 🙂 I did not peel off the double sided sticky tape on the back side of ram part yet. I left that so I can slide the ram and line it up as needed, so it’ll slot in my board all together as 1 piece. I have no thermal pads on the back side at all. I don’t think it needs any. It has a 0.5mm padded foam for adhesive. Leave the plastic adhesive cover on, so you can slide your ram once it’s all together. You’ll see. I love them. TEMPS: (Temps have not gone past 34.5C in Starfield, and this is with NO water hooked up at all. 😂 EDIT: Temps are actually dropping as the thermal pads and thermal paste squishes. I’m down to 33C now max in game. Unlike my 3090 Kingpin, I assembled these ram sticks/pads/paste cold. I’m loving this. how to upload photos in internet

The O-Rings on the terminal for my 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper block are called the EKWB 14x1mm, I randomly ordered some EKWB seals, and I found the right size on my own. Coincidentally, the same exact size used in the Supercool memory waterblocks too. This size seems to be a standard for many inlet/outlets for PC blocks. That’s great! Anyways, I’m not gonna take apart my GPU again, just to replace its seals with new ones lol. (I’m good) lol it’s sealed and leak tested anyways. Plus it’s not like they went bad, my dumb self just lost one to begin with. 😂 anyways, I HAVE SPARES and ai know what they are!!! Yay.

Okay, that’s great. My experience with them has been, you place your order, your items will be shipped within 3 days. Then we start counting, and have these time frames on shipping. Standard international shipping= 20 days. Express international shipping = 10 days. Too bad I burned through all of my 0.5MM high end pads re-doing a 3090KP HC block (Twice) 😂 Now I can’t even mount these today.

My supercool memory blocks arrived.

Man, I have hit some crazy dang clocks and temps with this 3090KP. This thing overclock a so good. The actual internal GPU clock speed is 2,272Mhz even though it says 2,265 external.

I actually figured out what causes the terminal to leak. And it’s us assembling the waterblock and missing a critical and very simple step that is common sense 😂. And that is the alignment of the plexi top and the copper block, these two are totally flush and sit together and the terminal will rest on the edge of both flats of these. The terminal bolts to the top plexi portion first, and the O-Rings will seal around the inlet/outlet on the plexi top only, if the copper base is poking out a tiny amount (Almost like an overbite from the copper base lol) it will cause the terminal to be tightened down at an angle. If you don’t align these top and bottom two parts totally flush, or maybe even allow the copper piece to have a small underbite then it’s gonna leak. It’s easy to reassemble the block where the copper sticks out just a papers thickness amount more than the plexi, which will cause the terminal to lift off of the inlet/outlet on the plexi, If it does it is going to be tilted and it’s going to leak. Anyways, I thought about that Bykski block, or maybe just the back plate lol. But, this kingpin block works really really good.

I SEALED IT!!!! 🤯🤯🤯😱😱😱 1st try. I didn’t have a leak tester before, and I was not tackling this without one, I bought one on Amazon last night, and had it by this afternoon 🙂. Well, now I got me one and they are amazing. I did over 1 Bar for 30 minutes, then I backed it down to between 0.50 and 0.75 Bar and I will let it rest for some hours and make sure no leaks. Before tear down, when I hooked up the Barrow tester for the very first time, to just confirm a leak and where it was at. It was HISSING like a beast. Dropping from 1 Bar to 0 Bar in a matter of 2-2.5 seconds or less. The last pic is a JOKE. 😂

I want me a fancy new A/C system too. Mine is crap, it consumes far too much energy based on my power bill. During the summer months it runs 24/7 and for about 110 days straight. While only managing to keep my house to 78F inside if I’m lucky. Some days it reaches 80F inside the home. This was primarily why I went with chilled water for my PC.

That K5 Pro is some seriously sticky messy stuffy. I tell you what else is nearly just as impossible to remove. That full cover Fujipoly pad that I use sweats oils when it heats. And it has permanently coated my entire back side of the 3090KP PCB in this thick clear dielectric grease film, not even a bottle of alcohol and a tooth brush can remove it. I could pour soda on it while running and be totally fine. It’s kind of a 2nd feature because since I run a chiller and some days I develop a little condensation without even realizing it. Anyways, my favorite GPU‘s are the Galax HOF models, whether it be current gen or older gens there is something special about them. There is a 3090Ti HOF “OC Lab” with the rare OC lab waterblock and white presentation hardcase etc. it’s so cool, if I had money too burn it’s be mine. The guy wants like $2,000 for it. But man, it’s #4 of only #100 in the world. I’d love to overclock that thing! I really love the RTX4090 Galax as well, but I feel like they should really have a matching HOF waterblock. Another GPU I still want to try is the 2080Ti HOF OC Lab. I have kinda learned that with PC parts nowadays, it’s not about how new or fast something is. It’s about how much fun you have with it! And these elite OC cards can absolutely do that. Which is exactly why I’d be dumb enough to spend $2,000 on a Galax HOF 4080 or even a Galax HOF 3090Ti lol. Either one can get whooped by cheaper slower 4090’s. But the user experience is on another level! 🙂 I forget this time to time when I’m window shopping and spot cheap low priced 4080’s/4090’s. And then I think about the coolness and overclock experience I have with my 3090KP. And then the desire for that economical 4080/4090 kinda fades away lol. Speaking of this, don’t you have a HOF 4090? Are you planning to put a waterblock on it? Were you ever able to get their overclocking app that the pro’s have access to?

I’m back in business! My 3090KP was pulled down for its annual “tear it apart” I lose a terminal O-ring down the drain in my kitchen. I pulled my kitchen sink drain trap, and no luck, I could not find it. These specific O-Rings like a rectangle with rounded corners. I went to Lowe’s and ended up finding one that worked (Same thickness). I had to actually cut the new one and make it a little shorter. I spliced it back together and all is good! She is air tight. I used O-ring lube as well. @Rage Set this GPU and block have been so awesome. I have never kept a video card this long before. It just works man. No strong urges to replace it just yet . 😂

Is that right? 6900XT/1440P/Overdrive RT/ FSR2.1 enabled= 21.82FPS. 3090KP/4K/ Overdrive RT/ DLSS 3.5 enabled= 30.02FPS. If that’s the case, that thing is getting stomped even at a lower resolution. That’s crazy. On another note! I have decided to restore my 3090KP! BEFORE. AFTER

Mine is Auto DLSS= Balanced mode. I wish it were smart and detected the GPU power for me. But, here’s the thing having a RTX3090 and a 1920x1080P native monitor is more than enough to drive this game 100+ FPS. But it will still set “Auto DLSS balanced” even if we could get 90+ FPS with Quality DLSS. Cyberpunk is special like that 😂

That’s very interesting, mine is not like that. Auto DLSS has always been balanced DLSS for me. Whether it be 2080Ti or RTX3090 with 4K or even 1080P monitor it forces a default of “Auto=Balanced DLSS”. It’s always been that way for me since launch.

@Mr. Fox Does your Auto DLSS mode set Quality or Balanced?

It’s a heavy game. I did not have HWinfo open, I may run again and see what my max power usage is. Probably gonna be like sub 800 watts. My water temps were fairly high. My chiller can’t sustain 100-150 watts cpu power, and 700+ watts GPU power simultaneously. I mean, it can but my water temp right now is 18C. As for tinkering, I just turned the graphics down 😂 and FOV too lol. It still says “High” textures, and “Ultra” Raytracing “DLSS” off. Set NVCP to high performance image quality. I gave me +3 more FPS lol.

Me pushing the down button on my chiller. 🙂 Now he is 44% faster 😂 (I didn’t actually push the down button) I did some tinkering though.

This game is nuts 700 watts easily @2.2Ghz on the OG 3090KP. My power percent says 77% which should equate to 770 watts. I’m not sure why that is. Heres mine. And a quick shot of the “Super Nintendo” style graphics Cyberpunk 2077 provides us 😂

I hate being tempted like this. This is an amazing DEAL!!! $1,700 bucks and already water blocked!! The RTX4080 version is $1300 I DONT NEED IT, I DONT NEED IT! I DONT NEED IT!! 🫣 https://www.grooves.land/inno3d-geforce-rtx-4090-ichill-frostbite-geforce-rtx-4090-gddr6x-384-bit-7680-4320-pixel-pci-express-x16-c4090-inno3d-hardware-electronic-pZZa1-2100886075.html?currency=USD&language=en&_z=us&camp=us_smart&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_PCf7I68gQMVvjHUAR0wegPbEAQYASABEgK4OvD_BwE

Right but, it’s still only going to hold up so long. Maybe 1 year and then performance is going to degrade pretty quickly. I did my sons Xbox Series X, and we have got some huge gains in better temps and smoother performance. With standard thermal paste the exhaust heat was around 125F. Then with Liquid Metal the exhaust heat went to high 160’s. It’s really cool. But after the 2nd round of re-doing Liquid Metal, I went back to thermal paste on my sons Xbox. I am not taking that thing apart every 10-12 months or sooner lol. “DAAAAAAAADDDDDDDD!!!!!!!” ”The Xbox is freezing up again!!!!!!” “it’s Broken!!!!”

The voltage slider in MSI Afterburner does work. It just works differently. If you set it to 100% it’s going to boost your core clocks by +15-30Mhz. You also need to set your voltage slider to 100% when you are undervolting for proper function.

I’m sorry but, the 4090 Matrix Liquid Metal ain’t gonna hold up long. After 6 months or 1 year it’s gonna need some sanding and fresh LM. Especially LM on bare copper.