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StripeySnake

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Everything posted by StripeySnake

  1. StripeySnake
    I haven't gotten around the the GPU stuff yet, but my friend's M17x R2 was having some serious thermal issues on it's CPU. (90+c gaming with no OC) So I decided to do something about it. I repasted it ofc because that's always good, but then I got to thinking and realized there's an entire damn GPU heatsink that will never be used and I can still make it's fan rev using HWINFO. So I grabbed an extra heatpipe I had lying around, some thermal glue, and the second GPU heatsink, and after an hour I came out with this abomination: At this point, the second heatsink barely pushes out warmer than room temperature air, but that's OK because the main one is only slightly warmer and the CPU temps max at 75 while running demanding games and A 70 watt OC to roughly 3 ghz all cores, WHILE ALSO RUNNING CPU BENCHMARKS. I only expect this to improve as well, as the thermal glue has yet to set properly and once it does conductivity should be even better. Anyway, I thought yall might enjoy this bit of crackhead engineering. P.S. If for some reason you want to try this, keep in mind you will have to cut up the chassis a bit to make room for the extra heatpipe. Also it's fine to solder the pipe to the finstack, but use thermal glue to attach it to the main heatsink as soldering there is way too risky. Also your keyboard WILL bulge a little bit, but it's not really noticeable when typing. 1 DAY LATER: The air coming out of the additional heatsink is now noticeably warm, the glue likely finally set. Additionally, max temps are still staying around 75, even with hefty ocing. I can verify it wasn't just the thermal paste too, as when I tried this OC profile right after repasting it normally, I was seeing max of 85 c, and now after the additional heatsink that's dropped 10 C.
  2. StripeySnake
    Based off of the short on the power rail I tested shorting all of my MOSFETS to ground, and found that one of them has substantially less resistance than the rest (90% less). I will keep trying to asses the board but i might have found the issue.
  3. StripeySnake
    I think I actually found a short after all! The second large flat pin from the right side of the card (top facing up) is shorted to the pads on the screw holes, and so is the pin underneath it on the other side of the PCB. I'm pretty sure those screw pads are ground, and if they are, then one of my power rails is shorted to ground after all.
  4. StripeySnake
    How would I flash the Vbios? In windows I couldn't flash it, but I haven't tried through MS DOS or external device. I was thinking of getting one of those clips/microcontrollers that lets you flash a bios from an external device and might try that.
  5. StripeySnake
    The card is a Zotac GTX 1080 MXM, and I installed it in my M17x R4 (2012) It does not detect in bios, but does heat up over time in the laptop. Additionally, there is no visible damage whatsoever to the card, and none of the larger pins on the MXM connector (i'm pretty sure those are the power rails based off of MXM convention) are shorted with each other.
  6. StripeySnake
    I finally got the BIOS flashed using a bootable MS DOS USB, and it went great, but the GPU still doesn't appear in bios. One thing I did notice was that the GPU slowly does heat up over time, which gives me some hope that it might still be fixable. I was thinking of trying a reflow, but will probably hold off for a bit to troubleshoot.
  7. StripeySnake
    Thanks, that's the right BIOS. The issue I'm running into is actually installing it, as everything I've found points to using a bootable USB drive, but all the links and such related to that aren't present or working. I did find a tutorial on techinferno, but the part about setting up the actual bootable USB is very unclear, and has broken links.
  8. StripeySnake
    The 1080 is not showing up in BIOS. From what I know this means that it either dosen't work or I need an unlocked BIOS. Unfortunately, I can't find any single unlocked BIOS tutorial that's not so old that none of it's links work. Can anyone help with this?
  9. StripeySnake
    I disassembled the old broken battery for the M17x R2, and found that it uses 9 now nonfunctional LG LGDB118650 cells. Nobody sells that exact part number anymore, but I was wondering if anyone who knows a bit about batteries might be able to help me find some that have the same specs. Thanks! P.S. 1080 comes tomorrow.
  10. StripeySnake
    Brilliant!
  11. StripeySnake
    Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with m.2 wifi cards in legacy machines. Good luck, and I hope you find someone who can be of more help.
  12. StripeySnake
    There should be a button a the top right, right above the keyboard with a wifi icon that toggles wifi on and off for the computer. You might want to try turning it off and on there, and/or making sure it's enabled via that button. Good luck.
  13. StripeySnake
    Thanks. I'll definitely make a post on how the 1080 goes. I'm exited to see if I can get it to run on 60hz and the like, and how temps and TDP are. Also as a footnote, I stress tested my P4000 in furmark and saw a max temp of 63 c and power draw of just 65 watts. I have a lot of hope for it in the R2, as the R2 only can really handle 75 watt cards. That was running at full speed with no undervolt or performance drops either, so as long as it can be compatible it should be cooled and fueled properly.
  14. StripeySnake
    Welp, I did it. I got a Zotac 1080 on ebay, so if it works out in my R4, then the p4000 will end up in the r2 within a month or two.
  15. StripeySnake
    Hey, I run a p4000 too! It's gotta be one of the most underrated MXM gpus out there. When I got mine almost a year ago it was 200 dollars on ebay, and I couldn't find any info on it if it would work. Nowadays it runs closer to a 1070 than 1060, and is always impressively cool considering it's using the stock fan curve. It's awesome to see some more appreciation for such a good GPU.
  16. StripeySnake
    Love the R4 too. Is it possible to run p4000 in r5 with locked BIOS? I only ask because my R4 is running the locked A15 BIOS, and it works fine.
  17. StripeySnake
    The point is, I won't be using the internal display. I already have an M17x R4 display, and an LVDS controller board that enables it to connect to an HDMI port. I'm just going to mount that in the place of the R2 display, and fit the controller board inside where the second MXM gpu would be. Then I'll run a flat FPC HDMI cable under the keyboard to the external HDMI port, essentially creating an internal external display. This will require an extra power connector, which won't be able to come from the battery, but this hardly matters as the battery for the machine is long dead and replacement's simply don't exist. Thanks for wishing me luck, I'll definitely need it.
  18. StripeySnake
    I will definitely benchmark it if I get everything running. From my tests in my own laptop, the p4000 tends to bench substantially better than the 1060 6gb MXM card, but a bit behind the 1070. That makes a lot of sense because of the much larger core count over the 1060, but much lower boost clock than the 1070.
  19. StripeySnake
    I'm not sure if It did. All it was was a trial run, the 660 dosen't spin the fans either, so we had to use HWINFO for manual fan control.
  20. StripeySnake
    I experienced a very strange phenomenon when I swapped my R4 Display assembly with another R4 display from a dead laptop. The WIFI card I had stopped working properly, and when I put in the card from the same machine as the display, it all started working again. That said, that card died some time later, and now I'm using the Intel Dual-band wireless-N 7260, which works great. I got it on ebay for less than 10 bucks so you should be able to find one cheap as well. The only way I know to ensure it's not a board issue is to use a definitely compatible wifi card. If that dosen't work, you might want to look into USB wifi adapters.
  21. StripeySnake
    I'm running a p4000 in M17x R4 with the 60hz LVDS display, using NVIDIA optimus, and modded drivers. I can't guarantee it'll work in the R5, but it seems pretty likely as it works fine in mine. if you need, I could probably make some modded drivers for you or instruct you on how to mod them, I've done it a couple of times myself.
  22. StripeySnake
    Per the request of mattyb3, and area-51 ALX over on the dell forums, I'll be moving my posts pertaining to Alienware over here from now on. With that out of the way, here's what happened. I recently did an extremely low budget build for a friend based off of the m17x R2. Initially, I specced it out with 16gb DDR3, a 940XM CPU, and a GTX 660m I had lying around. While the 660 is kind of impressively good at being a display adapter where there would have otherwise not been one, it's performance leaves something to be desired. Because of that, a few days ago I tested my own Pascal Quadro p4000 that I currently have in my own M17x R4, in the M17x R2. While the internal RGBLED display did not function at all, when I disconnected the display, and attempted to use the HDMI port, I got a display output and successfully booted into windows. It should be noted that the M17x R2 lacks integrated graphics, so that display output HAS to be coming from the GPU. Since I was booting off of stock windows drivers, I got no temperature readings, so I shut it off quite readily in order to ensure the safety of my Quadro. This won't be the end of the story however, as I might be getting one of those elusive zotac 1080's for my M17x R4, and if I do, I'll be selling the Quadro to my friend for his R2. My plan for installing it is to first use an LVDS controller board, and an old R4 screen I have to connect the HDMI port to the internal display. From there, I'll simply boot into windows, and then grab the GPU instance path, then shut it off, and .inf mod the drivers on a different system before transferring them to minimize the risk of cooking the GPU. Cooling will be a bit of an issue, as the R2 is only designed for 75 watt cards, but I did see an old forum post about getting a 100w AMD card to run in the 60's with extremely thin thermal paste and high mounting pressure. This bodes well for the p4000, as it's both not particularly power hungry, and actually seemed to fit perfectly under the stock heatsink for the r2, something the 660m doesn't do. I'll keep yall updated if I go on to the next stage of the project or not. P.S. Have a picture of my P4000 for the heck of it.
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