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1610ftw

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Everything posted by 1610ftw

  1. Have you checked something like Crystal Disk Mark and still it was only 2600 internally for read and write? In any case you will not see more than 3500 MB/s. Externally you will need a TB3 enclosure like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Enclosure-Aluminum-External-Support-Compatible/dp/B0BBZT42HC?th=1
  2. Are you sure it is the VRM thermals? CPU temperature as per throttlestop still in check? You could try new thermal pads or if you feel ambitious some higher end thermal putty to better cool the VRM's like here Upsiren UTP-8 or something similar. Here is a good starting point for reading about thermal putty: Snarks Domain - YouTube Also is the power consumption with substantial undervolting? Seems awfully high for 4.5Ghz with CB R15, should be more like 120 to 135W
  3. This was always going to be rather unattractive pricing but $6K is something else.
  4. Correct but for your use case it seems worth the wait. Edit: Just saw you may indeed need something now. A bit of a shame as none of the new laptop generation workstations have been released. You may try an LG Gram 17 refurb in that case and switch to something else later as I think you will find it too flimsy.
  5. Get the Dell Pro Max 18 Plus instead if it has to be one of the big 3 of Dell, HP or Lenovo: up to 4 SSDs up to 256GB memory professional chassis easier maintenance than M18 You can get it with a smaller GPU and probably with a longer warranty than the M18. And yes it will be less powerful but probably not much of an issue coming from the XPS 17 that it will surpass easily. Best info on it that I have seen:
  6. Maybe stating the obvious but I recommend to keep the screen just a bit open as temps will be better. I usually shoot for two ca. 1 to 1.5" foam pieces at the front to create a gap where the warm air from the keyboard deck can get out. I am doing that with all my laptops when their screen isn't used and it certainly makes a difference.
  7. You need to activate the AW overclocking as otherwise clocks are too low. You should at the minimum be able to do something llike 46 / 38 all cores on this unit. Here is what looks like a good guide for Throttlestop: Here you find some discussion regarding the AW overclocking, looks like a pita to me. The good news is that it still seems to work for your model but do not play with core isolation as that may break Throttlestop functionality:
  8. Sorry, have to pass here but indeed you should first confirm that the overclocking is activated and what the recommended firmware is, could already be mentioned in one of the threads on here. Throttlestop allows to undervolt indeed and it also has a window view that will allow you to check power uptake during a CB run. In any case you can do both things in parallel. What I like about Throttlestop is that it shows you power uptake in real time and maximum uptake, too. So you can see how high it goes at most and also when it throttles down. AWCC used to be an abomination and I eliminated it from my 51m R1. Not sure how bad it is today but you may want to look into it possibly holding you back or causing weird issues.
  9. About the throttling: Get Throttlestop and check how much power you can sustain on the CPU, should be about 160W long term and at least 200W for a single run of CB R23. That is with internal fans only and no help from the cooling pad. Just lift the rear of the laptop by at least an inch for additional ventilation. I use a Ringke folding stand that I also travel with but there are other options, too. Next thing to do would be to undervolt and then you should get at least 35000 in a single run with 99C prochot.
  10. Wow - that fan noise does not sound sustainable! I would not be surprised if your liquid metal application is not that grest - it happened before.
  11. Newegg probably thought that it must be 2x8 as 1x16 makes zero sense 😄 Yep those 4 core CPUs were cooled very well, 70s at most.
  12. I am sure it will have some effect but much less so than a more open design where such a cooler would blow cool air directly onto the heatsink. I have a 51m R1 and it suffers from the same issue - much worse cooling with a bottom cooling pad than for example an MSI laptop that have the heatpipes exposed at the bottom with plenty of cooling. MSI had such a design from the GT73 to the GT76, they were very well suited for cooling pads. By the way: I had to laugh: I really like the GT73/75 chassis from MSI but I also have a GT75 with a single memory stick on the other side of the motherboard - pricks 😄
  13. Yep he does but he is talking about the Neo which is the Tongfang chassis. Key = Clevo 18" = 330W PSU Neo = Tongfang 16" = 420W PSU - biggest stock laptop PSU from what I know As @win32asmguy says this will cost more than the X370 but it is also improved compared to it: at least slightly better cooling more drive slots more memory better audio with a dedicated sub bigger screen two high refresh rate high resolution screen options
  14. To my my knowledge the hinges mainly were an issue with earlier models and even those were usually not top of the line. Recently they have made improvements to the hinge design of the lower tier, too so you should be safe with at least anything from the Vector series upwards.
  15. It should be safe once in place but you have to be careful to assure it stays in place while mounting the heatsink. In my testing (air only) I was not happy with the performance of these sheets compared to my phase change solution so I only use them for testing and nothing else. If you feel uneasy about conductive TIM then use PTM7950 pads - non-conductive, great longevity and great temperatures: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ptm7950 I have not seen degradation since the first units I used them for - no pump-out, no drying out.
  16. Please note that the water cooling option is only for the 16" Uniwill / TongFang chassis. Best air cooling this gen will probably be MSI or Aorus with their vapor chambers but Clevo offers the only 4+4 memory / drive option and it also is the only one that would not look out of place in a professional setting.
  17. Have a look here starting at 1:15:00: Looks to me as if it may just fit. By the way that is a pretty cool video that I recommend watching for people interested in both the water-cooled 16" model and the new 18" workstation.
  18. I have found that removing a heatsink when it is still relatively warm is easier. So now when I have to do that with a socketed system I just heat up the CPU and GPU and then it is much easier to get the heat sink off.
  19. So I finally got around to read the whole 4 part review with google translator. That is a very thorough review and a lot more in depth than anything else I have ever read. I would recommend it to everybody who owns or is thinking about buying one of these top of the line MSI units, be it the X18, the Raider 18 HX or the Titan 18!
  20. What MaxxD said. Or get PTM7950 sheets for maximum longevity.
  21. Yep. same here - I want portability, stationary (sadly) won't do it for me. That is indeed a Tongfang and Prema mods their bios with excellent results. Will send a pm, not really desktop hardware we are talking about here 😄
  22. Yes it is a good start and at least it also gives the customer more options as one can combine multiple main boards and GPU boards allowing customers to finally be able to combine AMD with Nvidia even in the top tier or also maybe let the customer optimze for a more workstation like use with an Intel CPU and a 5070 but with the option to have up to 128GB of memory. A big upside is that contrary to most MXM slot designs this does not make the laptop thicker which apparently is very important to everybody and one of the reasons we do not get socketed CPUs any more. Overall a very smart concept and hopefully it will show good reliability. Maybe then we will see 18" next year.
  23. That is really cool about your grand daughters - it is always rewarding to bring family and sometimes friends to another level and it is quite interesting how cheap the hardware can be that brings about the improvement. You must also be one of the coolest grandfathers around with your knowledge of everything PC! The Titan was a fantastic card in its time and it goes to show how good we have it today where mere budget cards mop the floor with it. I would sell that 4090 because you got all that you wanted out of it and if you are tempted to buy again it will be good to have sold it in time. From what I can see the 5080 will be the sweet spot with the price differential to the 5090 being a lot bigger than the performance differential which is quite the departure from last gen but if there is a KINGPIN 5090 you probably won't be able to resist 😄 And yes, I vote for keeping that 1080 after you have kitted it out - it will be a nice backup card and it won't be losing hundreds of dollars in value if you let it sit for a while. PTM7950 is in all my laptops recently when I have to repaste, it is just so good and stable for a very long time and it works very well with CPUs and GPUs.
  24. Congratulations - it is good that nobody tried to "improve" it before so you basically got a pristine card that is unlikely to have seen any abuse. As you mainly like benchmarking you can do it with this card, too - (almost) the same fun but for a much lower price 👍
  25. Some of the old modular laptop crew may like this: It is an interesting concept to say the least and probably what he had hinted at in a previous video. Of course it is a bit of a bad joke that this unique watercooled more modular laptop that also sports a good keyboard layout is limited to 16" and rather basic memory and drive options.
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