Mr. Fox

I am not sure how reliable that data is. It may not be reflective of intelligence or mastery of vocabulary as much as just being a rude, crass and uncouth or unprincipled person that lacks self-discipline. A creative use of vocabulary has potential to be far more accurate and even hurtful when the tongue is wielded as a weapon without the use of vulgar words. Example: "Ricky is a dumbass." or "What I find most amazing is the fact I cannot recall having ever met a person more lacking in common sense and basic human intelligence than Ricky." The former might be nothing but a reaction to an isolated circumstance or a basis for disagreement with Ricky. The latter is a emotionless statement that describes Ricky's ineptness and defects as a human being. The latter is far more hurtful to Ricky than random use of a vulgar word. If your intent is to hurt Ricky's feelings, calling him a dumbass isn't going to do much. It just makes you look like a jerk. (Hopefully, nobody here is named Ricky. I just chose that name because I don't know anyone by that name.) Fox Sports - you can stream it on PC or smart TV. https://www.foxsports.com/nfl-2023-super-bowl-lvii

Yes, you have the correct methodology. As for the noob question, it really only matters to someone that might want to buy it later. When you are attempting to sell it, it is helpful that anyone can see in the photo what they are buying. It can also help with identifying any spare parts you have in an inventory or stash if you can tell what it is without having to label it or put it into a system to identify what it is. These are the reasons I like having the original marking legible. It is otherwise totally irrelevant, and the performance improvement is more valuable. There are some people that are truly weirdos and care about the markings more than they care about performance. They are also often the type that want to keep the original decals and tags on products they buy. I have known a lot of people that want to keep original decals on things that are old, worn-out and curling on the edges. By the time that has happened, removing the decals is actually aesthetically detrimental because the color of the surface under the decal no longer matches the adjacent surfaces that were not covered by the decal. As a general rule, a delidded used CPU should be worth more to someone that knows enough to value it as an enhancement. You are correct that the warranty is voided by the delid. If you buy a tray (OEM) CPU that is not a boxed retail product, it has no warranty from Intel. So, there is no warranty to void unless the place that sold it to you offers a warranty.

Yes. I actually got good results from a delid on both. I had truly lousy results bare die with the Supercool 12th Gen kit (which has been redesigned). What I ended up having to do on the 12900K to get good results is sand down the bottom of the IHS. Apparently there was enough of a lip to make an air gap where the solder used to be. @tps3443actually suggested that. When I started checking closer why nothing was helping, I found that the IHS would not "spin" on the die because it was dragging on the PCB. Once I sanded it down enough that the IHS was resting on the die instead of contacting the PCB, the temps instantly fell in line. I did not have to do that with the 13900K. In both cases about 10°-12°C improvement from delid. I find it offensive when people use profanity in casual conversation, and it causes me to think negative things about them as a person. I know lots of people that use the "s" and "f" words in general conversation and they always strike me as being a bit dumb and not having a good command of the English language, even though some are very intelligent. At the very least, it conveys a sense that they are lacking common courtesy and professionalism. When someone is angry, upset or physically injured, I do not find it so offensive because the fact that they do not normally use that type of language lets me know that something unfortunate has occurred and the vulgar expression is helping them cope with the physical or emotional trauma of the situation.

It does make the CPU laser etched marking obscure and generally illegible. I have heard you can use sulfuric or muriatic acid to restore them, but it is the one thing I do not like about using it. If you have delidded, just get an aftermarket IHS or buy a cheap used Celeron and steal the IHS from that. I bought a used LGA 1700 Celeron on eBay for like $35, took the IHS off of it and put it on my 13900K with liquid metal. 😄 You can also use the Rockit Copper IHS, but I had to trim it down a bit with a dremmel tool to make it fit the Thermalright CPU frame. Once I did that it worked great. I think some of it may have to do with context, timing, and the choice of words. I tend to use slang euphemisms like "effed up" in place of the more offensive term that should not normally be used by a civilized person with an IQ above 50. I know the kiddos think it makes them a big boy to use potty-mouth in normal casual conversation that involves no expression of emotion. Profanity is best reserved for situations that call for an emphasis or conveyance of extreme anger or pain. It provides a way of safely venting by using harsh words in lieu of violent actions or threats.

Watch the video from Dawid. Good parts and good instructions from NZXT. I think the NZXT BLD option would be a really good option for you, unless you really want someone else to assemble it. The key to getting liquid metal to work on top of the IHS is applying enough and applying it to both surfaces. If you don't use enough and do not apply it to both mating surfaces it is not going to work as well. The most common mistake is only applying it to one surface. A wet IHS and a dry heat sink is almost guaranteed to perform worse than thermal paste. That also applies to laptops, under the IHS on a delid, and bare die. Both halves have to come together wet to get good results. They are also too thick for good results in an application where fitment is not problematic. You want as little TIM as possible when the parts fit well. The closer to zero space you can get between the IHS and cold plate the better. Adding thickness there impairs heat transfer. It's only beneficial when the parts fit poorly and you need to have something chunky to plug the gap.

I think it was Dawid that featured one of those in a YouTube video. I thought it was good, and he always makes it entertaining. Edit: Found it... was his wife, but still a good option and an entertaining video. @ryan

Pick anything that is NOT an Alienware. If you look at GamersNexus YouTube channel, they have highlighted the failures of numerous system-builders (which are many, unfortunately) and Alienware is, hands-down and undisputed the master of failure, flawed design and engineering abortion. Also avoid all of the big names like HP, Lenovo, Dell XPS, MSI and ASUS for pre-builts. They all suck, just not as bad as Alienware sucks. Go with companies like Origin, Digital Storm, NZXT, Maingear, Build Redux, etc. Corsair is so-so, but I would avoid anything SFF or proprietary from anyone. You'll end up with compromises almost as bad as wasting money on an effed-up Alienware. They're really only good for chintzy turdbooks that have sloppy-fitting parts that don't work well with thermal paste due to half-assed engineering and lousy manufacturing QC. If you have a desktop you are going to be better-served by a good thermal paste or liquid metal.

We can only hope... The article misses the mark on what is to blame... The problem, at least in great part, is due to their idiotic pricing. I do not believe it is due to lack of demand or economic downturn. People that don't have money and shouldn't spend what they do not have are being more stupid than ever about using credit cards. (That is going to bite them--and maybe the rest of us--in the butt in the long run, but it is what it is.) I think the real issue is there are enough people that are not stupid, so they are not giving into stupid prices. Even the mediocre gamer mobos are priced like the high-end enthusiast/overclocker boards now. The high-end options are beyond ridiculous pricing, but they are still selling because people like us place importance on having what we want over being intelligent about how we spend money. The mid-range Strix mobos are a good example. I bought mine on eBay as refurbished/open-box option for what should have been new retail pricing, but new retail price is/was more than what I paid for a Dark mobo on sale direct from EVGA. It's OK, but the Strix is definitely not an enthusiast board. It is a gamer mobo priced like it is an overclocker mobo.

It is very difficult for me to tolerate small screens and keyboards. Minimum acceptable (just barely) is 17.3" screen and I absolutely loathe TKL keyboards. Every time I have owned a laptop with either a 15-inch screen or a keyboard without the numeric keypad I have hated it and regretted buying it.

He changed his response at some point. He initially called me out for repeating the same thing and that made no sense because I was not repeating anything I had ever said before, LOL. Nor was I repeating anything someone else had said. Here was my notification email. I got a kick out of your response to him. 🙂 Vapor chamber is definitely better, whether you have one or two GPUs installed.

You're welcome. Let's be honest about gaming. You do not (or at least I do not) need a 4090 to have a good experience. I thoroughly enjoy these and other games with my 3060 Ti FTW3. There is no tangible change in the experience running 100-150 FPS faster with a 4090 versus the 3060 Ti FTW3. I wouldn't know the difference except for the on-screen overlay telling me. 3090, 3090 Ti, 4090 are good for number-chasing. I would not have wasted my money on a 3090 or 4090 for gaming. Here is Crysis (1) Remastered since that is what you technically asked for. I tried to use the built-in benchmarks for these, but I could not get them to work. The batch files could not "find" the file specified. SMAA 2TX (max anti-aliasing) ~170 FPS DLSS: Quality ~220 FPS

I wasn't sure if you wanted to know about FPS with maxed AA versus DLSS set to Quality (since DLSS being enabled disables anti-alias settings and you cannot enable both simultaneously) so I did it both ways for you. Maxed AA is well above 200 FPS, while DLSS Quality is right above 300 FPS. This is at 2560*1440 resolution. DLSS: Quality SMAA 2TX (max anti-aliasing) Edit: I did Crysis3 Remastered. Did you need/want to know about Crysis(1) Remastered?

Yes, I sent him a PM on the HWBOT forum on January 30th to ask a simple question about something I could not figure out relating to my HWBOT profile settings. I had a friend that said he could not "follow me" because the option is greyed out, but not greyed out for others. I thought maybe there was a setting I needed to toggle to enable it. I could not find such a setting and could not find anything in the FAQ/self-help, so I asked him. Well, for two weeks now he has ignored my PM on that topic, yet he can find time to post smartass replies to people in the forum trying to have civil dialogue about something a thread was created to have dialogue about.

At first it was kind of exciting to think they were going back to socket mounting, and then when he showed it was still going to be BGA in the end (only a test platform) that just totally ruined it. What is this guy's problem? @johnksssand @Papusanis it just me, or is he just a smartass with an attitude? I feel like trying to interact with some of these dullards is like casting pearls before swine. https://community.hwbot.org/topic/221655-mandatory-systeminfo-555-update-and-new-benchmark-rules-for-rtx40-series/?do=findComment&comment=636361

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/89017727 | https://hwbot.org/submission/5199765_ https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/89018309 | https://hwbot.org/submission/5199779_ https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/89018915 | https://hwbot.org/submission/5199791_

Remastered. That's also with the CPU at 6.0GHz on P-cores, 4.8GHz on E-cores, 50x cache and DDR5-8000. It would probably run as well with all of that stock. I doubt it adds a ton of frames, and generally doesn't with most games.

1440p @ 165Hz with maxed out graphics settings. No DLSS since DLSS does not work on Linux. So, pure hardware muscle... no fake frames.

It's nice to see examples of bad people paying for their bad choices and I love seeing justice work itself out. I hope their stock value keeps free-falling and AT&T/DirectTV end up going bankrupt due to insufficient funds and inadequate subscribership. It would serve them right for being stupid and evil. The issue is they want to refuse to pay Newsmax for their programming with a massive viewer base, even though they pay fees to their woke cronies for programming that appeals to a comparatively very tiny (and shrinking) audience. I can't participate in the boycott because I do not use AT&T or DirectTV services, but I almost wish I did so I could participate in it, LOL. https://www.newsmax.com/us/directv-at-t-stock/2023/02/11/id/1108254/ I did jump on the Disney boycott and canceled my Disney+ subscription a couple of days ago. The disgusting filth and utterly diabolical propaganda they attempt to brainwash our children with is beyond evil.

Hopefully you have room for one more idiot here. One thing that is definitely NOT idiotic is that we all love Linux, or want to learn how to love it. RTX 4090 is working perfectly on KDE... I've tested a couple of titles just now... Quake II RTX Crysis 3 Remastered

4090 is working peachy on Linux. QuakeII-RTX Crysis 3 Remastered @ryan

I agree. They are "joke cores" indeed. They are literally Intel Atom cores designed for smartphones and tablets. In some systems they actually call them by the correct name in the BIOS, but others refer to them as "efficiency" cores, LOL. You need to overclock at least 16 of them to perform like a stock 8th Gen Intel 8-core CPU with hyperthreading.

It has plenty of room. This case is gigantic and doesn't have any cooling components inside of it.. But, that's neither here nor there because I love that EVGA monstrosity of a case. Let's see how much it would cost to ship if it is still available. I will PM you my address.

I snagged a Suprim Liquid X "sold and shipped by Amazon" for $1799. I had an Alphacool Eisblock Aurora saved in my wishlist ready to move it to my shopping cart as soon as I confirmed that Amazon didn't ship me a dud sample, but now they are sold out everywhere except for an eBay scalper from Italy offering them for $100 more than MyModMods or Performance-PCs. I haven't mounted the radiator or removed any of the protective plastic from the AIO cooler yet because I am hoping the Eisblock Aurora becomes available soon. The AIO radiator is just standing on end, hose-end-up, in the open space in the middle of my gigantic case. The radiator is just sitting on top of a small cardboard box on the floor of the case to keep the water ports on the radiator higher than the pump in the AIO. Oh man, I am so sorry to hear that. I hope my bad luck cooties didn't find you. I remember that ditch you had to run for non-computer issues. That project alone had to be expensive. If things don't work out with the 3080 keep my 3090 KPE in mind as an option. I haven't tried to sell it yet. I want to keep it and sell the shunt-modded 3060 Ti FTW3, but keep reminding myself that selling it and using the money to offset the 4090 purchase is the more intelligent move. I don't need anything more than the 3060 Ti in my work computer. Keeping the 3090 KPE just because it's better isn't the smart thing to do, but neither was buying a 4090, LOL.

Hey bro! I've been meaning to ask if you and your son got that beast desktop build done. I've been watching for photos and benchmarks.