Mr. Fox

OK, so I think this is going to be my daily driver overclock profile. Temps are OK without the chiller. That Sabrent kit was definitely better than the other generic kit. Runs 7200 with tight timings very stable. I finally got around to testing the 2080 Ti with MATS and it has a failing RAM module (B0). I thoroughly cleaned and inspected the card and it looks like new otherwise, but I haven't done any probing. I am tempted to try a reflow on that one chip with my hot air station to see if it fixes it, but I probably should send it off for repair. It is still too good of a GPU to just kick it to the curb. Probably has many more years of service left if I fix it. @Rage SetI registered the card at EVGA and it is out of warranty. It has served me well and taken no prisoners in battle, too early for retirement. mats version 400.184. Testing TU102 with 20 MB of memory starting with 0 MB. Read Error Count: 0 Write Error Count: 717805 Unknown Error Count: 0 === MEMORY ERRORS BY SUBPARTITION === SUBPART READ ERRORS WRITE ERRORS UNKNOWN ERRS ------- ----------- ------------ ------------ FBIOA0 0 0 0 FBIOA1 0 0 0 FBIOB0 0 717805 0 FBIOB1 0 0 0 FBIOC0 0 0 0 FBIOC1 0 0 0 FBIOD0 0 0 0 FBIOD1 0 0 0 FBIOE0 0 0 0 FBIOE1 0 0 0 FBIOF0 0 0 0 FBIOF1 0 0 0 Failing Bits: B000 B001 B002 B003 B004 B005 B006 B007 B008 B009 B010 B011 B012 B013 B014 B015 === MEMORY ERRORS BY BIT === P : Partition (FBIO) READ 0 READ 1 READ ? P BIT READ ERRORS WRITE ERRORS UNKNOWN ERRS EXP. 1 EXP. 0 EXP. ? - --- ----------- ------------ ------------ ------ ------ ------ B 000 0 776620 0 595624 180996 0 B 001 0 688440 0 271326 417114 0 B 002 0 806002 0 655095 150907 0 B 003 0 776706 0 180896 595810 0 B 004 0 688386 0 417028 271358 0 B 005 0 747347 0 210980 536367 0 B 006 0 688395 0 417049 271346 0 B 007 0 776663 0 180955 595708 0 B 008 0 629617 0 298088 331529 0 B 009 0 747307 0 211014 536293 0 B 010 0 776535 0 595472 181063 0 B 011 0 747350 0 210957 536393 0 B 012 0 776594 0 595601 180993 0 B 013 0 747319 0 211022 536297 0 B 014 0 688416 0 417131 271285 0 B 015 0 659160 0 301303 357857 0 report.txt

I might be able to push them some more, but the E-cores are the weakest link on this CPU. Yes, it was a nice upgrade from 12900K/KS. MOAR CORE is seldom something to complain about.

The best way to keep your CPU stable is to give it more voltage or undervolt less. That is assuming you can keep it cool, of course. Stock voltage is usually too much. Using adaptive voltage gives an impression of success, but the fact is that allows the CPU to do what it wants to. If I am too stingy with voltage, static voltage is not stable for me either. You usually can't set static voltage to a value seen using adaptive voltage or it will be unstable. The part that you can't see is what the voltage is doing between sensor polling cycles. Speaking of more voltage... The issue with 7200 stability was the bin quality of the memory was inferior, so my better kit is fine at 7200. I've installed the better M-die kit.

I know it is popular, but I never use adaptive voltage with an offset. Using static/manual voltage always works better for me. I have played around with it some, but it is never stable when I push the overclock harder.

Moving a little closer to the edge. Will have to try my other M-die kit. This one keeps causing the "Memory Changed" issue at boot up at 7000 (although stable) and it is not stable at 7200.

Brother @tps3443 is either living right or struck a deal with the devil on the 11900K and his 13900KF. Two lucky strikes in a row. Only he could tell us which one is more accurate. 😉

Not with the 12900KS. Haven't had time to experiment, and since it is my work computer less of a recreational priority for me. CENS has BIOS overclock profiles in the firmware on the Dark mobos. It's worth a lot more than market value based on the silicon grade. I would ask him what he has in mind for the price rather than give him a price based on what you think is fair. When you are selling something rare and in demand, the pricing should reflect that. Yeah, the DDR4-4400 overclock is totally stable. I let it run for TM5 2.5 hours last night with no error. It requires a fan blowing on it just like DDR5. A fan blowing on it keeps the temps 38-40°C. Without the fan it hits 50°C within a few minutes and starts throwing errors in massive quantity, eventually ending in a BSOD.

It hasn't even been installed 24 hours yet, but it seems stable so far. I generally do not tune my benching system for that though. I generally tune for highest possible benchmark scores and do not need it to be able to run Prime95 for hours. I still have a lot of learning and tuning to do. This is an accomplishment for the Strix D4 mobo. Rare to see an ADL DDR4 system capable of doing this.

Time for bed. More tuning in the days ahead.

Well, it is looking like the 12900KS is going to be a really nice upgrade for Banshee, my work PC. It's running nice and cool with the delid considering it is shut up in an enclosed case and the RAM run stable with this CPU at 4400 16-18-18-36 1T just as it did with the 13900K.

Hmm, my Windows 11 crashed real hard on the first attempt to boot with the new BIOS. It froze and then blue-sceened at the logon screen with the spinning circle and I could not power down. Had to turn off the PSU. Never worked right again after that. All of the USB ports were dead in Windows 11, but not in the BIOS or Windows 7 or 10.

Are you having a problem with Windows 10 or only Windows 11 with the USB issue? I don't know if you saw my post the other day, but when I flashed the updated bios for 13900K something went haywire with Windows 11. None of the USB ports worked anymore. I used a PS/2 mouse and keyboard to navigate and tried numerous things. I could not find the cause or fix the problem. It did not affect Windows 7 or Windows 10. Shutting down would hang. When I attempted an in-place upgrade/install as a possible solution, it repeatedly failed. Since I could not resolve it, I ended up having to clean install Windows 11. No idea why, but it is very weird.

DDR4 is absolutely a lot better than it was with 12900K and KS. It would not even POST at 4400 before.

Yes they look really good so far. Probably not going to worry too much about the overall SP rating as much as the P cores. If 13th Gen anything like 12th the E-cores are not going to overclock worth a damn anyway. Later tonight I will take it out of the Asus mobo see how it runs on the Dark. Before I take it out I'm going to see if the DDR4 memory overclock is any different on this generation or if it's still sucks the same. That would confirm that the issue is the motherboard is weak were memory overclocking is concerned.

Same here, SP99... but better P-cores and worse E-cores. Is that CPU Force 2 136 the same ASUS SP99 CPU?

I am working but will know something soon. I can't stop working to disassemble my work computer to find out, LOL. Soon means today. No, only reserving the right to return or exchange a crappy sample rather than live with it. I couldn't go through a full-fledged binning process even if I wanted to because I do not live within driving distance of a Micro Center, and I wouldn't ask a friend to be my gofer.

Indeed. I love it for the same reason. To add yet additional insight to previous comments, when I say reinstall the driver I mean run DDU and clean install. I thought that something was wrong with the Mech-15 not supporting an external monitor after cross-flashing with a Clevo vBIOS but apparently DDU removed registry components that caused conflicts and doing that fixed the conflicts. If I installed the driver on top of itself it didn't work correctly versus the clean installation.

If I had to guess it would be something gets changed in the Windows registry when the driver package is reinstalled. Just speculation on my part, but seems logical.

Yes, as a matter of fact I have to reinstall the driver and reboot between vBIOS flashes. If I do not the higher power limit is not detected even though the driver installs itself. If I only flash and reboot something causes the driver to not update the power limit, or something else ends up being off. This is something I started experiencing with Turing and it is that way for me with Ampere. Even when everything might seem to work right on the surface, the performance is often adversely affected if I do not reinstall the driver. On the Eluktronics Mech-15 I had to reinstall the drivers after cross-flashing or no external displays would function.

Have you tested with all of the display output ports. The behavior may change depending on which port your monitor is connected to. I have done a fair amount of cross-flashing of vBIOSes and the "address" (for lack of a more technically accurate term) can change from one brand to the next. Example here is the ASUS vBIOS I am using. ASUS uses 2xHDMI and 2xDP. EVGA uses 1xHMDI and 3xDP. So, to use all three of my monitors requires that one of them be connected to HDMI. I believe your Suprim X has three DP like EVGA so you might find success using a different port. If I leave all three monitors connected to DP one of them stops working because the ASUS firmware is designed to support two, not three, and by using one monitor on HDMI all three work. I still desire crazy things, maybe even more than I used to, and want to play the role of mad scientist when it comes to PC tech. But, the rash of bad luck and disappointing purchases that I have had in the past few years has taken some of the starch out of my collar because I am not wealthy and can't afford to replace the things that I break. To be honest, I really can't afford some of what I buy to begin with, but it is an unhealthy addicition of sorts. So, it is more like caution to avoid disaster because I don't have the financial resources needed to throw caution to the wind. I certainly would if I could though. Edit: Speaking of things I buy that I cannot afford...

Good enough for me. I'd much prefer to stick with a predictable product over one that is constantly changing, sometimes in ways that I do not appreciate. I can always change to another product if and when I have identified a need or an opportunity to use something better. Until then, don't mess with it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I will probably be lazy again about the delid. If my temps without a delid are anything similar to what the 12900KS is after a delid I might not do it right away, or maybe not at all if the chiller gets the job done well enough. Of course, everything is contingent on it being a good sample and not an exchange candidate.

My eyes are peeled and I am waiting with baited breath. 😄

Thank you. Yes, please email that to me. It may be out of warranty since 3 years have passed. If memory serves me correctly the standard warranty is 3 years, but I would need to check. I could still register it and find out that way, too.