Mr. Fox

I had one truly amazing Patriot Viper Blackout DDR4 Samsung B-die memory kit. Two others of the same SKU were trash and none of the Patriot DDR5 I have tested was any good. The TG Xtreme 48GB DDR5-8200 kit I have is excellent. Definitely superior to the the G.Skill. But, the TG Delta kits seem to get beaten by Trident Z kits. The CPU I have with the SA bug is rock solid. I would buy it again if given the opportunity. No regrets. And, with tighter timings 8200 performs the same or better than 8400. So close there is no way to quantify a difference other than an AIDA64 memory benchmark and the difference is so small that the added hassle of tuning and higher voltage simply isn't worth caring about. Monumental waste of effort due to the absence of a tangible benefit in any workload scenario other than an AIDA64 benchmrk. I am sure it could go higher with the memory overclocking with more VCCSA, but even with the SA bug it runs better than most that don't have the SA bug. That's why I am running that CPU in the SFF system. Without water cooling for the memory there isn't any thermal headroom, which makes the SA bug irrelevant in practical application. Keeping everything in perspective, if you are getting 8000 or 8200 with under 1.200V VCCSA and are capped because of the bug, but the VID and Vcore needs are superior that is a way better CPU that one that is a VID pig that can run 8400, 8600 or 8800. I'd much rather have a strong core overclocker that doesn't crater itself under molten silicon due to insane voltage requirements. I sure have had a nice time doing nothing today. Not ready to go back to the grind tomorrow. That old X79 setup with the Titan GPU does plenty of things "good enough" and I've wheeled it into the living room and hooked it up to the TV. Played some Modern Warfare and Crysis 3 Remastered today on it from the comfort of my recliner. I would never know it is averaging only 75 FPS instead of 175 FPS but for the OSD telling me so. For an "almost free" computer it's pretty awesome. I say "almost free" because I had to pay the postage and trade spare parts that I never had any intention of using. Close enough to free. The only reason I get to do this is Mrs. Fox is away visiting her family. She would pitch a fit about me doing this if she were at home. Crysis 3 Remasered - GtX Titan 1080p with medium settings...

I had not heard of this group before. Nice orchestral folk metal.

At full speed, yes. Much louder. At low speed, not any louder. But, I had Arctic F12 wimpy wuss fans on the radiator. At max speed they were too slow (1800 RPM) to get loud. They were also weak and the cheapest name-brand fans money can buy. I would never buy them again, but they did a so-so job and lasted a very long time. At full speed a significant portion of the noise is generated by the massive amount of air (800 CFM) getting rammed through the radiator fins at high velocity. I am possibly going to replace this with P12 Max fans in a week or two. Not because of being loud at full speed, which should be expected, but even at low speed the fan motor itself is audible. It is not the fan blades making noise chopping the air, but the actual motor itself makes a faint "whirring" sound almost like a gearbox of some sort. That sound is not very loud, but it is constant. The decision to keep it or replace it with P12 Max fans will depend on whether or not I become desensitized and stop noticing that sound over the next week or two, or if it grates on me and becomes annoying. Below is what I posted at oc.net: This was a cost experiment as much as functionality. Temps are the same as before and driven primarily by my high ambient temperatures and extremely low humidity in Phoenix (usually around 27°C (80°F) and often less than 10% RH). The low humidity is both a blessing and a curse. It makes ambient cooling less efficient due to no evaporative cooling effect. The positive effect is when I run my chiller there is no issue with condensation due to the absence of moisture in the air. ESD is also a danger with low humidity. The 120mm fans were quite old (about 10 years of running 24/7) and worn out. Some were not spinning full speed and laggy in starting. Replacing them with a good low-cost fan, such as the P12 Max, would cost about $100 USD. This automotive fan was less than $30 and 800 CFM. With the controller and piece of plywood, screws, etc. the total cost was just under half the cost of buying new 120mm fans. Amazon.com: 12" inch Slim Fan Push Pull Electric Radiator Cooling Fans 12V Mount Kit Unversal Black : Automotive Buy 12" inch Slim Fan Push Pull Electric Radiator Cooling Fans 12V Mount Kit Unversal Black: Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases www.amazon.com RioRand PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Switch Control 7-70V 30A Fuse (RRLSKJAASSSSSSS): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific RioRand PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Switch Control 7-70V 30A Fuse (RRLSKJAASSSSSSS): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific www.amazon.com

This was a cost experiment as much as functionality. Temps are the same as before and driven primarily by my high ambient temperatures and extremely low humidity in Phoenix (usually around 27°C (80°F) and often less than 10% RH). The low humidity is both a blessing and a curse. It makes ambient cooling less efficient due to no evaporative cooling effect. The positive effect is when I run my chiller there is no issue with condensation due to the absence of moisture in the air. ESD is also a danger with low humidity. The 120mm fans were quite old (about 10 years of running 24/7) and worn out. Some were not spinning full speed and laggy in starting. Replacing them with a good low-cost fan, such as the P12 Max, would cost about $100 USD. This automotive fan was less than $30 and 800 CFM. With the controller and piece of plywood, screws, etc. the total cost was just under half the cost of buying new 120mm fans.

Remember, that new nicely binned 11900K that I sold you came from Walmart. So, I procrastinated about doing this for months now. I finally just did it to get it over with. It actually works quite well. At the lowest speed it is quieter than the nine 120mm fans it replaced. When I dismantled the radiator to remove all of the 120mm fans, I used a thick foam weatherstrip to seal the 4 sides of the radiator against the housing so that the air being forced in could not escape anywhere except through the radiator. I have a window screen (with an aluminum frame) that I made. It is sandwiched between the plywood and radiator housing to catch dust and lint. I can take the fan off with the four thumb nuts to remove the screen for cleaning.

I got the screws. This is so much better with a nice backplate.

Thank you. I love it. When I saw this GPU for $799 on NewEgg I could not resist it. So much better than spending the same amount, or slightly more, on a 4070 Ti Super. Such a compromise. This is way better. They have more of them. I could not use my Corsair RAM fan with the EK 360 Direct Die AIO due to the fitting placement, so I decided I may as well set it on the backplate and blow cool air into the opening around the x-bracket. It actually dropped the temps a couple of degrees. Speaking of beautiful and backplates, GPUs without a backplate are so stinking ugly. And, the naked PCB seems unsafe to me. All of those contacts, circuits and exposed SMDs. The Titan cards had no backplates, which was common in that era. Well, to fix that I found a new open box XSPC Titan backplate, complete with thermal pads and screws. Unfortunately, the screws included are the wrong size. They include M3 x 11MM and this GPU uses M2.5. I have the M2.5 screws up to 8MM and I need 11MM long for the fours screws around the core. But this looks WAY better than a naked PCB. I will have to order some M2.5 x 11mm screws on Amazon. The M2.5 x 8MM were long enough to use everywhere else. I am temporarily using the 8MM screws around the core under the backplate instead of going through the back plate.

The 3090 Ti FTW3 Black arrived. It is an EVGA refurbished and looks like brand new. Looks fantastic in the A21 case and runs nice.

Each time I see that picture it is more disgusting than the time before. Truly repulsive. All he needs is horns and a tail.

So, I put the Z790i Edge into a slightly larger case (ASUS A21). The 3090 Ti FTW3 should be delivered tomorrow. I put the Rampage IV Gene into the smaller AP201 that the Edge used to be in.

Probably a case of incurable stupidity mingled with technical incompetence. Maybe further complicated if he is a loser by all measurements. Or, the leader of losers. Either way, the buck stops with the CEO. It was on his watch.

Thank you. Yes, I was also impressed. X79 motherboards do not support DDR4. DDR4 was not released until later (2014). I believe X99 was when DDR4 became a thing. I checked my HWBOT submissions and the read speed was almost as fast as my DDR4-4600 dual channel speeds. Also worth noting, my wPrime benchmarks are almost as high as my 8700K HWBOT submissions. The temperatures are also impressive. I was expecting it to be much hotter than what it is getting with such a significant overclock. Sadly, decoding above 4G and resizable bar are not supported. I was able to add the rebar module to the BIOS, but without the above 4G decoding rebar cannot work. So, I cannot use the Arc A770 on this because it requires rebar to function. While I am not planning to drop the 4090 in it, I did buy a 3090 Ti FTW3. It will be here in a couple of days. This will allow me the ability to bench Windows 7 on my work PC. I do have the 2080 Ti Waterforce GPU, but this is not on a custom loop. That said, I am thinking about buyng a cheap radiator on AliExpress or eBay so I can use the 2080 Ti Waterforce. I already have a spare D5 pump/reservoir I can use to make my own GPU AIO. https://hwbot.org/submission/5604008_ Here are a couple of lists for perspective. Considering the age of the CPU, which was released in Q2 2013, this is pretty darned impressive. Faster than what a lot of people, including many gamerboys, are still using today. The build quality of the Titan GPU is also impressive. It leaves A LOT to be desired in terms of performance (780 Ti era GPU), but the cooler alone weighs a ton. It has a vapor chamber, too. The guy I got it from said it was never repasted. I took it apart yesterday to replace pads and paste. The pads still look like new. Still very soft and sticky, so I left them alone. And the thermal paste was still good. Not dried out or anything. It basically looked like new after I removed the air cooling module. Considering it was released in Q1 of 2013, that's crazy to even think would be true.

https://hwbot.org/submission/5603947_

Ryzen owners really should watch this video and apply the same process to overclocking. It really is the right way to overclock, regardless of brand. The preferred core boosting is a joke. The idea felt stupid to me all along.

Agree 100%. It is interesting that I (and others like me) have been looked upon unfavorably, even criticized sometimes by noobs that think they know everything, for selecting manual voltage and sync all cores as my overclocking SOP for years. I've done nothing different with LGA-1700 and have none of the problems the "gamers" are having now. In their infinite wisdom of doing massive undervolting with wild voltage swings and using algorithm-based (TVB) boosting they have created problems where none would have otherwise existed. Maybe I don't get 6.0 or 6.2GHz on two cores that bolsters e-peen, but I do get solid benchmark scores and a consistent experience. Maybe their observation is somewhat true that manual overclocking is dead now is, but so are their CPUs. PBO sucked for AMD and TVB sucks for Intel. Dumb is always dumb. Edited Funny how much we think alike. Although worded differently, our thoughts posted essentially simultaneously, our expressions are the same underlying message.

Nice to run a good version of Windows for a change. https://hwbot.org/submission/5603298_ https://hwbot.org/submission/5603299_

This...

Such a lovely OS with so many "special" AI features. Right @Papusan? I have been dual-booting for many years.

I am not sure. 8 cores is a low core count. About half what I would like to see, along with hyperthreading. Need at least 32 threads to be completely satisfied. But one thing I am sure about is eliminating the smartphone E-cores is a good thing. I have never liked the idea. They do add a lot of performance, but not as much as they would if the space they wasted was replaced by more P-cores. I am glad to see them pulling their heads out. Now they need to go find the dumb-dumb(s) that suggested it, their boss that allowed them to, and the biggest dumb-dumb of the bunch that approved it. They need to round them up and beat them nearly to death right before they are fired. They're not worthy of holding their positions at Intel, or anywhere else that allows them to work on computer technology. I hope they perma-scrap the e-core idea along with any notions about the retarded chiplet idea and go back to producing large die head-stomping monolithic masterpieces. In other news... "In 218 out of 250 games tested, Arc A770 passes with flying colors. This means a flawless launch with no graphical artifacts and playable framerates." Interesting that 11 of 12 games that failed to work well ran flawlessly after disabling the AMD iGPU in Device Manager. Those games were attempting to use the anemic APU instead of discrete GPU. Only 4 out of 250 crashed hard and refused to work. I am very much looking forward to Battlemage dropping.

Most people, sadly including gamerboys, are too forgiving and tolerant of the OS filth. It will easily cost them 1500 to 2000 Cinebench R23 points. But they are willing to sacrifice that in exchange for a few extra UWP turds floating in their breakfast cereal. I tried to tell them it was not chocolate milk, but they did not believe me. Anyhoo... I think I am going to dub this one Methuselah.

Man, GPUs have come such a long way since the first Titan. Even the crappy ones are stronger. But, it's a nice trip down memory lane. Scores are similar to my Prema-fied 980M benchmarks. https://hwbot.org/submission/5602424_ https://hwbot.org/submission/5602422_

Seems like a nice CPU. Definitely worth $45 paid for it. Double core/thread count over the 4820K and runs stable with exactly the same BIOS settings, LOL. Will tune it later. "New CPU Installed. Press F1 to enter setup." Pressed F1, then F10, and *BOOM* just runs. https://hwbot.org/submission/5602395_

When I was still doing beta product testing for Dell/Alienware they made it very clear that they are dead set against memory overclocking and all-core overclocking for some stupid reason. They wanted memory left on SPD default and only single-core overclocking. This was back in 2010-2012. Well, we know how I feel about that kind of lame suckiness. Wasn't long after that I was no longer part of their program. No loss, really. Just look at what a joke Alienware is today. The kings of trash. You're better off buying some crappy "gaming desktop" on Temu or AliExpress. At least it won't be built with proprietary trash components. I'm a sick puppy. Four desktops now. Disgusting but also a gratifying mental illness. The E5-1680 V2 is out for delivery. Should be about double the peformance of the 4820K. (Double the cores and threads and unlocked. multipliers.) I have forgotten how to overclock these antique setups. Things have changed so much in some ways, not in others. I had forgotten that 1.575V Vcore and 1.650V memory voltage was not a big deal back then. It's also interesting how this EK 360 AIO can keep the 4820K so cool with 1.575V compared to a modern CPU with much lower voltage.